Interior/Exterior Black door handles + Gas cap and Black Logo?
#27
11-09-2006, 10:34 AM
#28
11-09-2006, 01:54 PM
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bushkill, PA
Posts: 41
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All that is required to take off the door handles:
- lower window completely, remove inner door panel
- remove beltline weather stripping from door
- now, observing the base of the window where it is held in place, slowly raise the allen screw location to a point (approx half-way up) where it can easily be loosened (they are quite tight). once loosened, its easy. be sure to get both allen screws before attempting to remove window from base.
- once window is removed, using the same size allen key, look to the extreme upper left inside of the (driver) door panel, and you will notice the handle mounted by two allen screws at each end of the handle.
- before begining to unscrew these allens, first disconnect the wire leading from the door handle to the locking mechanisim (wire can be seen running down far side of inner door, meets locking mechanism approx. half-way down)
- once wire is removed, begin to unscrew allens, this will require patience.
- After both screws are out gentley tug handle out from the door panel, minding the wire.
Tips for painting:
- i found a couple of old shoe boxes to use as painting mounts for the handles. simply turn them upside down, and using an razor blade cut out squares in the box for the handle mounts.
- blue painters tape also comes in handy to mask off the underside of the handle, as to avoid overspray. i used two strips of 3/4" tape along the underside, then used the razor blade to trim it.
- after cleaning off any large debris from the surface, using 2000 grit wet sand paper in a fore/aft motion very gently over the surface of the handle works just fine. this does not require excessive sanding, simply enough to remove the top coat of the handle and make a slightly course surface for the paint to adhere to. once finished sanding, use paper towels to wipe off residue.
- depending on what color you want, go to your local auto supply shop and pick up some good quality automotive spray paint, and also a spray can of clear coat to protect the paint. this will run approx $4-$5 a can.
- after you have choosen the desired color and are ready to paint, first test the can on a piece of scrap cardboard to ensure proper operation and color. - when painting the handles, be sure not to over spray any particular area, as to avoid "running". especially on the first coat, dont try to cover the entire handle on the first one or you will run the paint.
- allow approx. 20-30 mins between each coat, or wait until it will not smear at the touch of a finger. wait no longer than one hour between coats, as they adhere better to each other when not fully cured (if not done correctly, "orange peel" will take effect). I used six coats of high gloss black on mine just to be safe.
- I am doing the clear coats tonight, so after i have the finished results, i will post that part of the proccess on this thread.
- lower window completely, remove inner door panel
- remove beltline weather stripping from door
- now, observing the base of the window where it is held in place, slowly raise the allen screw location to a point (approx half-way up) where it can easily be loosened (they are quite tight). once loosened, its easy. be sure to get both allen screws before attempting to remove window from base.
- once window is removed, using the same size allen key, look to the extreme upper left inside of the (driver) door panel, and you will notice the handle mounted by two allen screws at each end of the handle.
- before begining to unscrew these allens, first disconnect the wire leading from the door handle to the locking mechanisim (wire can be seen running down far side of inner door, meets locking mechanism approx. half-way down)
- once wire is removed, begin to unscrew allens, this will require patience.
- After both screws are out gentley tug handle out from the door panel, minding the wire.
Tips for painting:
- i found a couple of old shoe boxes to use as painting mounts for the handles. simply turn them upside down, and using an razor blade cut out squares in the box for the handle mounts.
- blue painters tape also comes in handy to mask off the underside of the handle, as to avoid overspray. i used two strips of 3/4" tape along the underside, then used the razor blade to trim it.
- after cleaning off any large debris from the surface, using 2000 grit wet sand paper in a fore/aft motion very gently over the surface of the handle works just fine. this does not require excessive sanding, simply enough to remove the top coat of the handle and make a slightly course surface for the paint to adhere to. once finished sanding, use paper towels to wipe off residue.
- depending on what color you want, go to your local auto supply shop and pick up some good quality automotive spray paint, and also a spray can of clear coat to protect the paint. this will run approx $4-$5 a can.
- after you have choosen the desired color and are ready to paint, first test the can on a piece of scrap cardboard to ensure proper operation and color. - when painting the handles, be sure not to over spray any particular area, as to avoid "running". especially on the first coat, dont try to cover the entire handle on the first one or you will run the paint.
- allow approx. 20-30 mins between each coat, or wait until it will not smear at the touch of a finger. wait no longer than one hour between coats, as they adhere better to each other when not fully cured (if not done correctly, "orange peel" will take effect). I used six coats of high gloss black on mine just to be safe.
- I am doing the clear coats tonight, so after i have the finished results, i will post that part of the proccess on this thread.
#30
11-09-2006, 05:27 PM
Great write-up boxer - another way you can get to the hard to reach allen screw is through the door jam. There is a black flap on the top of the door jam, if you fold it back a bit you will notice a hole or two. If you have a long allen wrench you can loosen this screw through that hole. Kinda hard to explain, but check it out!
#31
11-09-2006, 07:31 PM
#32
11-09-2006, 07:37 PM
All that is required to take off the door handles:
- lower window completely, remove inner door panel
- remove beltline weather stripping from door
- now, observing the base of the window where it is held in place, slowly raise the allen screw location to a point (approx half-way up) where it can easily be loosened (they are quite tight). once loosened, its easy. be sure to get both allen screws before attempting to remove window from base.
- once window is removed, using the same size allen key, look to the extreme upper left inside of the (driver) door panel, and you will notice the handle mounted by two allen screws at each end of the handle.
- before begining to unscrew these allens, first disconnect the wire leading from the door handle to the locking mechanisim (wire can be seen running down far side of inner door, meets locking mechanism approx. half-way down)
- once wire is removed, begin to unscrew allens, this will require patience.
- After both screws are out gentley tug handle out from the door panel, minding the wire.
Tips for painting:
- i found a couple of old shoe boxes to use as painting mounts for the handles. simply turn them upside down, and using an razor blade cut out squares in the box for the handle mounts.
- blue painters tape also comes in handy to mask off the underside of the handle, as to avoid overspray. i used two strips of 3/4" tape along the underside, then used the razor blade to trim it.
- after cleaning off any large debris from the surface, using 2000 grit wet sand paper in a fore/aft motion very gently over the surface of the handle works just fine. this does not require excessive sanding, simply enough to remove the top coat of the handle and make a slightly course surface for the paint to adhere to. once finished sanding, use paper towels to wipe off residue.
- depending on what color you want, go to your local auto supply shop and pick up some good quality automotive spray paint, and also a spray can of clear coat to protect the paint. this will run approx $4-$5 a can.
- after you have choosen the desired color and are ready to paint, first test the can on a piece of scrap cardboard to ensure proper operation and color. - when painting the handles, be sure not to over spray any particular area, as to avoid "running". especially on the first coat, dont try to cover the entire handle on the first one or you will run the paint.
- allow approx. 20-30 mins between each coat, or wait until it will not smear at the touch of a finger. wait no longer than one hour between coats, as they adhere better to each other when not fully cured (if not done correctly, "orange peel" will take effect). I used six coats of high gloss black on mine just to be safe.
- I am doing the clear coats tonight, so after i have the finished results, i will post that part of the proccess on this thread.
- lower window completely, remove inner door panel
- remove beltline weather stripping from door
- now, observing the base of the window where it is held in place, slowly raise the allen screw location to a point (approx half-way up) where it can easily be loosened (they are quite tight). once loosened, its easy. be sure to get both allen screws before attempting to remove window from base.
- once window is removed, using the same size allen key, look to the extreme upper left inside of the (driver) door panel, and you will notice the handle mounted by two allen screws at each end of the handle.
- before begining to unscrew these allens, first disconnect the wire leading from the door handle to the locking mechanisim (wire can be seen running down far side of inner door, meets locking mechanism approx. half-way down)
- once wire is removed, begin to unscrew allens, this will require patience.
- After both screws are out gentley tug handle out from the door panel, minding the wire.
Tips for painting:
- i found a couple of old shoe boxes to use as painting mounts for the handles. simply turn them upside down, and using an razor blade cut out squares in the box for the handle mounts.
- blue painters tape also comes in handy to mask off the underside of the handle, as to avoid overspray. i used two strips of 3/4" tape along the underside, then used the razor blade to trim it.
- after cleaning off any large debris from the surface, using 2000 grit wet sand paper in a fore/aft motion very gently over the surface of the handle works just fine. this does not require excessive sanding, simply enough to remove the top coat of the handle and make a slightly course surface for the paint to adhere to. once finished sanding, use paper towels to wipe off residue.
- depending on what color you want, go to your local auto supply shop and pick up some good quality automotive spray paint, and also a spray can of clear coat to protect the paint. this will run approx $4-$5 a can.
- after you have choosen the desired color and are ready to paint, first test the can on a piece of scrap cardboard to ensure proper operation and color. - when painting the handles, be sure not to over spray any particular area, as to avoid "running". especially on the first coat, dont try to cover the entire handle on the first one or you will run the paint.
- allow approx. 20-30 mins between each coat, or wait until it will not smear at the touch of a finger. wait no longer than one hour between coats, as they adhere better to each other when not fully cured (if not done correctly, "orange peel" will take effect). I used six coats of high gloss black on mine just to be safe.
- I am doing the clear coats tonight, so after i have the finished results, i will post that part of the proccess on this thread.
#33
11-10-2006, 08:03 AM
I did remove the badge from the car, I masked off the MINI emblem, sanded the wings really well and sprayed two to three coats of SEM flat black. I removed the emblems with dental floss. Use painters tape to protect the MINI's paint when trying to remove the emblems. For the front emblem you can remove the hood scoop and help push the tabs of the emblem out. This is hard to do for the rear emblem, you can see the tabs and might be able to get a finger on em when you remove the interior rear hatch panel.
I also removed the door handles (pain in the ***), sanded them down really well and sprayed two to three coats of SEM semi-gloss black. I do have a couple of chips though so that sux. Vinyl would be too hard to wrap around them because of their contour.
#34
11-11-2006, 10:27 AM
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bushkill, PA
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
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sorry it took so long to type this up, i had the mishap of locking myself out of the house the other night so that delayed things a bit.
proccess for clear coat:
- I allowed my handles to dry over night, though 3-4 hrs should be plenty at room temp.
- using the 2000 grit wet sand paper again, VERY gently run over the handles to give it an even, slightly course surface for the clear coat to adhere to.
- i did alot of trial and error for this part of the proccess, and found this is the best way. Once handles are preped for the clear coat, take the spray can and apply a generous layer over the handle. enough to appear very smooth (not textured), but not so much that it will run.
- like i said, trial and error. so if you mess up on one coat, just take the 2000 grit and sand it down gently again. i sprayed 3 layers on my handles and gas cap (pics are in my gallery).
- wait until the previous layer is dry to the touch to apply the next.
- i recomend letting handles cure for 24 hrs before re-installing, just in case.
funny story:
- i used small cardboard pieces inside the handles to keep the moving mechanism shut for masking. though, when i re-installed the handles i completely forgot about this. so i left and naturally the locking mechanism kicks in around 10mph, and when i got to my destination, i unlocked the doors... and they wouldn't open! so i ended up crawling out the sunroof and found out the outside handles didn't work either. so i had to get back in through the hatch and go back to my garage, put my window down, take the weather seal off, used a thin metal bar to crack the door open, and took everything apart again. i knicked the drivers handle pretty good while breaking in, so now i have to do it again on monday. good times.
proccess for clear coat:
- I allowed my handles to dry over night, though 3-4 hrs should be plenty at room temp.
- using the 2000 grit wet sand paper again, VERY gently run over the handles to give it an even, slightly course surface for the clear coat to adhere to.
- i did alot of trial and error for this part of the proccess, and found this is the best way. Once handles are preped for the clear coat, take the spray can and apply a generous layer over the handle. enough to appear very smooth (not textured), but not so much that it will run.
- like i said, trial and error. so if you mess up on one coat, just take the 2000 grit and sand it down gently again. i sprayed 3 layers on my handles and gas cap (pics are in my gallery).
- wait until the previous layer is dry to the touch to apply the next.
- i recomend letting handles cure for 24 hrs before re-installing, just in case.
funny story:
- i used small cardboard pieces inside the handles to keep the moving mechanism shut for masking. though, when i re-installed the handles i completely forgot about this. so i left and naturally the locking mechanism kicks in around 10mph, and when i got to my destination, i unlocked the doors... and they wouldn't open! so i ended up crawling out the sunroof and found out the outside handles didn't work either. so i had to get back in through the hatch and go back to my garage, put my window down, take the weather seal off, used a thin metal bar to crack the door open, and took everything apart again. i knicked the drivers handle pretty good while breaking in, so now i have to do it again on monday. good times.
#35
11-11-2006, 12:43 PM
You locked yourself in your MINI then you locked yourself outa your house
#36
11-11-2006, 01:46 PM
Hey astro,
I did remove the badge from the car, I masked off the MINI emblem, sanded the wings really well and sprayed two to three coats of SEM flat black. I removed the emblems with dental floss. Use painters tape to protect the MINI's paint when trying to remove the emblems. For the front emblem you can remove the hood scoop and help push the tabs of the emblem out. This is hard to do for the rear emblem, you can see the tabs and might be able to get a finger on em when you remove the interior rear hatch panel.
I also removed the door handles (pain in the ***), sanded them down really well and sprayed two to three coats of SEM semi-gloss black. I do have a couple of chips though so that sux. Vinyl would be too hard to wrap around them because of their contour.
I did remove the badge from the car, I masked off the MINI emblem, sanded the wings really well and sprayed two to three coats of SEM flat black. I removed the emblems with dental floss. Use painters tape to protect the MINI's paint when trying to remove the emblems. For the front emblem you can remove the hood scoop and help push the tabs of the emblem out. This is hard to do for the rear emblem, you can see the tabs and might be able to get a finger on em when you remove the interior rear hatch panel.
I also removed the door handles (pain in the ***), sanded them down really well and sprayed two to three coats of SEM semi-gloss black. I do have a couple of chips though so that sux. Vinyl would be too hard to wrap around them because of their contour.
#37
11-11-2006, 08:57 PM
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