I see that MINI and MINI Madness say use rivets, but the PIAA bracket kit i just bought supplies a set of SS nuts & bolts.

Any one have a strong reason to go with one over the other? I have rivet gun, so that is not big deal.....

thanks!

 

I used bolts, and would do it again.

I think that bolts might be better bacuse they are easier to remove. I think that they want you to use rivits because they might vibrate loose. The solution...lock washers!

 

I had to remove and remount the dealer installed factory mounts. I bought and learned to use a rivet gun to do it, since that was what had been used before.
I think the only issue with using a nut and bolt might be the very limited space. If tiyr bolt is too long, you're going to poke a dent or hole in your bonnet skin.

 

I'd bolt it, seeing as how you're not going to be mounting them to the bumper itself (I hope) but rather to a mounting bracket or light bar. The "Madness" type brackets (originally made by PIAA) are nice and clip to the bonnet behind the upper grille, and Alta makes a very nice set of lower brackets that bolt right to the aluminum bumper plate behind the plastic, if you want a lower set. Both use nuts and bolts to secure the lights themselves- I'm going to use the PIAA -type brackets for my Hella Angel Eyes driving light install. Check out Aaron's site (Outmotoring.com)- I know he has the PIAAs, the Alta's and even the Alta light bar in stock, and he's a great guy to deal with.

Just be sure to cover the hardware with either clear nail polish, laquer-based clear coat or some kind of solvent-based paint after installation- I usually see the hardware all rusted out within a few months of installation, which really takes away from the clean look. I've also seen something called "liquid handle" at the hardware store, which is a rubberized paint that you can dip hand tools into, to give them a rubberized coating, and I thought I might try that as well.

 

I think you know my opinion, fishbulb. But just for clarification; bolts and nylok nuts. Stainless at that. I also prefer the socket head bolts. On my first DIY, I used cap nuts and lock washers - they're alright but I had to stack a few washers to fill some gaps that developed after the first few 1,000 miles. I've changed over to the nyloks and they're perfect!

 

And, best of all, the Nylock nuts are pretty inexpensive...

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/asp...qx/product.htm

 

thanks for the input.

Stopped by my local dealer yeterday & took a look at the JCW they have with Hellas on it. Top part of the bracket had a nut & bolt - bottom had rivets. I guess that really answers it!

i'll start with the nuts & bolts, move to rivets if i ever need to. (doubt it)

 

If they used the Hella brackets that come with the ff200's; the top part of the mount is very different then the OEM version. On the Hella's there is a flat plate the slides in between the steel metal layers of the hood and pinches the hood skin via the bolt you saw.

Very stout method and it does cause a fair amount of tension on the lower bracket mounts, which is one of the reasons I went with bolts.

 

nah, it is a custom (thcik!) bracket with Compact 4000's on it.....

 

The Phillips head bolt and nuts supplied by PIAA are stainless. I used a nut threaded all the way up to the head of the bolt and then inserted thru the bracket hole. This was done to take up some of the lenth on the slightly long bolts. I then also used an anodized silver plastic insert nut from Lowes. Cheap!! All worked great.

 

good tip - thank you!

 

D'oh!

just cut out the grill last night...no problems there - coping saw was the ticket!

Tape the brackets into place for positioning, test fit the lights....D'oh! The way the FF1000 mounts, the adjustment part is right in the grill! I took a look at rallylights.com site, there is an alternate bracket, need to give them a call & see how that works.

If that doesn't do it...time for some reconstructive bracket surgery...