Interior/Exterior Auxillary Input Issue (When hot outside)
Auxillary Input Issue (When hot outside)
I installed an Auxillary inpout jack into my MCS last november and everything has been fine until recently. Recently I noticed that when it is hot out side the radio does not switch over to the Aux input and starts up into the CD or radio. Going throug the modes on the radio or my steering wheel Aux does not come up until the interior is cooled down.
Has anyone else has this issue or know of a resolution for this issue?
I would prefer to use the aux jack rather than a FM transmitter.
Has anyone else has this issue or know of a resolution for this issue?
I would prefer to use the aux jack rather than a FM transmitter.
When this happens, is there no aux selection even when nothing is plugged in? You might try unplugging and reinserting the connector at the back of the radio, in case it is a bad contact from thermal expansion.
The aux input intermittently going out is a fairly common problem, although I haven't heard a case of it being temperature related. Do you power your player from the cigarette lighter? If so, see if it comes back when under battery power. In this case, the remedy is a "ground loop isolator", which is available from Radio Shack and other sources. Search the forums on this term for more information.
The aux input intermittently going out is a fairly common problem, although I haven't heard a case of it being temperature related. Do you power your player from the cigarette lighter? If so, see if it comes back when under battery power. In this case, the remedy is a "ground loop isolator", which is available from Radio Shack and other sources. Search the forums on this term for more information.
I CAN'T BELIEVE IT. I have the same problem and thought i was nuts! I have Sirius hooked up directly to an add-a-circuit for power. Aux works every morning without fail. After work, it takes like 20 minutes to cool down enough to work.
Ken
Ken
Thanks. Tried that and the aux will come back, but goes out again within 30 secs or so. It'll continue to do that no matter how many times I disconnect the Sirius from the aux input. After about 20-30 min., the aux will stay on.
I use the AUX for a MP3 player, powered via rechargable battery, and have never had this issue regardless of temp. Do you think it would start occurring if/when I purchase a power adapter for the player? What does a ground loop isolator do?
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It sounds like a ground loop isolator could be the remedy. When you connect a player to both the aux input and the car's power (cig lighter or fuse box) at the same time, it creates an electrical loop that can cause feedback that makes the radio think aux is not there. The ground loop isolator breaks the feedback loop.
It goes inline between your player and the aux input.
Here's one from Crutchfield: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-lF4AiAG...90&I=127SNI135
Radio Shack carries one, probably easier for most to obtain locally, but you also need an extra RCA-to-miniplug adapter:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062214
The problem of losing aux input comes up fairly regularly here. Enter a search for "ground loop isolator" to find more information.
Here's one from Crutchfield: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-lF4AiAG...90&I=127SNI135
Radio Shack carries one, probably easier for most to obtain locally, but you also need an extra RCA-to-miniplug adapter:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062214
The problem of losing aux input comes up fairly regularly here. Enter a search for "ground loop isolator" to find more information.
So, if you hear a humming when plugged into AUX and using a power adapter, that indicates that you have a ground loop, and that loop can grow bad enough to make your stereo stop recognizing the AUX device? What a drag. Doesn't seem to be an issue with a battery-powered device (so far)...
The issue has been brought up both on NAM and MINI2 for a while. I don't recall seeing people mention hum through the aux, only that it cuts out entirely. Perhaps the head unit has a very low tolerance.
You're not likely to notice any issues with a battery powered device connected to the aux input. But, if you connect a device that is powered from the car (cigarette lighter, for example) and that device is powered (and grounded) to a different point than the head unit - the difference in ground potential is the issue.
Here is a good tutorial about what a ground loop isolator is, and how it works.
Here is a good tutorial about what a ground loop isolator is, and how it works.
Wow... guess I'll be sure to check that I can return my power adapter for my iRiver should I purchase one, then. What a bummer. It is a drag havig to remember to take it inside once a week and put it on charge, but that's better than having to jump through hoops like this- sounds like the problem is pretty widespread, too. Anyone connect up an AUX device oike this and NOT have the problem?
Really, it's not as complicated as it may seem. Plug the GLI into the aux input jack and leave it plugged in all the time. Now pretend the GLI's jack is your aux input. When you use the iRiver, just plug it into the GLI instead of the OEM jack, and you can also use the car power adapter whenever you want.
Power adaptor does not seem to be the problem since I can switch it with my battery powered mp3 player and have the same issue. I have tried two seperate cables and have the same problem. I have also removed the cable from the jack and every now and then I get the Aux to work for a few seconds.
Thankfully my car is due for its maintenance and I am going to have them check it out.
Thankfully my car is due for its maintenance and I am going to have them check it out.
Originally Posted by rkw
Really, it's not as complicated as it may seem. Plug the GLI into the aux input jack and leave it plugged in all the time. Now pretend the GLI's jack is your aux input. When you use the iRiver, just plug it into the GLI instead of the OEM jack, and you can also use the car power adapter whenever you want.
One thing that I did when using the GLI was to place it inside the opening just above the center console tray. All the holes thru the panel already exist, so it's easy to route the wires down to whatever device you are using. Of course, this works best if your aux input is installed in the center console area.
I used the Radio Shack GLI. It's about $17 and it's in the shape of a small cylinder with about 6 feet of wire attached to it. You do need to buy an extra RCA to 1/8 stereo plug adapter as was mentioned by rkw. It also helps a lot to buy a couple of 90 degree male/female connectors. By the time you are done, you have 1 wire going from the AUX input into the center console, and another wire coming down. Plug your device into the wire coming down and you are good to go.
i think Alpine has only specified full operational temp up to 55C on these
HU, which is typical for most automotive electronic requirements for
stereos and DVD's (55-65C).
they probably spec'ed out their deviation as the HU would operate up to
85C, but any additional functions including the aux jack will not be
included.
It will return to normal operation including all functions after temps
are below 55C (131F).
HU, which is typical for most automotive electronic requirements for
stereos and DVD's (55-65C).
they probably spec'ed out their deviation as the HU would operate up to
85C, but any additional functions including the aux jack will not be
included.
It will return to normal operation including all functions after temps
are below 55C (131F).
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