Hey all, I have a ding in the sheet metal behind the driver's side door on my '05 MCS which just happens to be situated directly behind the left passenger speaker. If I remove the speaker, do I have direct access to the sheet metal of the body? I'm thinking (and hoping) I'll be able to just push the ding out -- carefully of course.

TIA,

Dave

 

I haven't removed my speaker on my MCS so someone else would need to answer that, but typically when speakers are removed you will have access
to the outer body panel through the speaker opening.

If you have access to disposable chopsticks i recommend you use that
along with a light hammer to tap (not push) the ding outward. then
tap the area and the surrounding area from the outside to get it perfectly
straight to its original curvature. wax afterwards.

i want to get some PDR tools but so far large spoons and chopsticks
have done the trick for me. i should get me some tools soon...PDR
is fun. good luck on your ding.:smile:

 

thanks, kenchan! that's pretty much what i pictured doing... now i just have to figure out an easy way to get the panel off and the speaker out. i do have the Bentley publishing 2002 - 2004 MC/MCS service manual so that will likely help me to remove the panels.



dave

 

Yes, you have direct access to the other side of the sheet metal .... but you have to pull the whole door panel off, not just the speaker. The speaker grill is part and parcel of the door panel, the speaker is this mounted in the door.

Don't worry though, pulling the door panel off is a cinch. It's a little different on the '05 (just an extra step really). You'll need a torx wrench, a large bladed screwdriver, and some tape (to wrap the screwdriver so it doesn't mar your paint).

Just pulled mine off this weekend. Look on mini2 for directions on how to do it.

 

I have an 03' and took apart my passenger side door panel when I fixed
the ticking noise.

I first opened the window all the way. Then it was a few torex screws,
one hidden under the reflector, then just wrapped a regular screw driver
head with a towel and inserted into the slot at the bottom of the door.
Pulled and it pops off like any door panel. The tweeter trim came off
too so it's a good idea to put some masking tape over the tweeter
trim so it doesn't fall off onto the floor and scuff it.

The very top of the panel you need to pull it towards you (not upwards)
to get it off.

Not sure what this "extra step" is for 05's, but im sure it is very similar
to the above. :smile:

 

I think the extra step would be were the led lights are in the door handles and also the light under the door. Its probably wiring, so watch out.

 

Thanks again for the advice... Dopey me, I didn't specify that I need too pull off the panel from the REAR side panel behind the DRIVER'S seat. i.e., LEFT SIDE BACK SEAT SPEAKER PANEL... Well, if I ever have to do the DOOR panels, I'll know who to ask.

Anyway, I'll look on MINI 2 and my Bentley manual.

 

I have pics of the panels removed from my audio install, which may help you some...

Driver side, rear panel, speaker removed, this is what it looks like:
http://www.mappage.net/cmine/display...album=15&pos=4

 

Are you a trained PDR technician? If not, I recommend you leaving the job of "pushing out" the dent to a PDR professional.

With the proper PDR tools and training it is also likely you won't have to remove the door trim, stereo speakers or any other trim for that matter.

Just IMHO.

 

thanks for the advice, C4... i'm just not sure if i want to pay the "professional" price $$ for removal of the dent. if they can do it w/o refinishing the surface then i may consider it. i've got a fairly good touch with hand tools so maybe the wooden cooking spoon trick might just be enough to lightly push out the dent without pushing out all the rest of the metal around it. i'll have to post a pic of it when i get a chance.

thanks for the excellent pics wagnbat!

 

As long as you use a soft piece of wood (like those disposable chop sticks)
to tap the ding outward it's not that hard to do once you get the hang
of it. The only thing you don't want to use are any objects with a sharp
edge. it has to be rounded and preferrably soft if you've never done
this before.


I got a bad ding right under the front headlight the other day from some
large metal object that flew onto my car while I was motoring. damage
was about 8mm diameter 5mm deep, paint completely chipped off...so
this one I couldn't do a PDR, so used 13 coats of touchup paint,
1500 grit wetsand, scratchX, walla! the ding is gone and smooth
finish. hehehe. fixing dings and chips is fun.

 

I talked to my favorite PDR guy (also a MINI owner) the other day about working on a small ding on my driver's side just below and in front of the gas cap door. He said he could probably reach this particular ding from the rear access hatch in the boot. He said there was a brace in there, but it was reachable w/ his PDR tools. $40 bucks for the repair. Have to wait til he gets back from vacation though.

 

ummm...what's a "PDR"?

 

If you're **** about your car - why are you trying to fix this yourself if you're not trained? It costs a lot less to get the ding removed by a PDR professional - what if you push too hard, stress the metal and the paint spyders? Then you up to a cost a lot higher than the cost of paying a PDR pro. Pay the man and don't worry about it.

 

"pdr ="s paintless dent removal"

Thanks......

 

I would agree...a good PDR pro can be your MINIs best friend. It is an art when done right.

 

For the demented?

 

It depends on the ding, but usually a normal door ding will not make your
paint crack like that. You can heat it up if it's got a pretty sharp concave.

It costs $99 here for removing one ding MSRP.

If it doesn't look like you can get your tool to the ding, don't touch it.
It makes it harder for the PDR guy to fix when you distort the contour
of the original single hit ding.

 

no buddy, for the talented that like to fix things.

 

I talked with my MINI service rep and he said they bring in a professional to do the job at the dealership -- for $150.00
It's not that I can't afford it but that seems awfully steep for the work.
I'm probably going to do it myself -- verrrrrry carefully -- when the weather cools down a bit.
Thanks again for all of your advice!
Dave