I was reading thru the install and it say's that they have to be programmed? Is the program to make them functional or what?

 

Yes, the running lights have to be programmed into your car's computer. When I picked up my 05 I mentioned this to my salesman and he simply pointed me over to the service department where a technician came over with a wireless programmer, and thirty seconds later my car had running lights. By the way, the running lights do not use the xenon lights, they use the supplemental ones just below.

 

The add on driving lights do not need programing. If you are talking DRL's (Day Time Running Lights) then yes they need programing. chad:smile:

 

Are you talking about the Daytime Running Lights (DRL) or the auxilliary OEM driving/rally lights? In either case, they must be programmed in by the dealer. I beleive if you do your own install of the driving/rally lights per the factory instructions, they will be tied into the high beam circuit so will only operate when the high beams are on (and must be programmed). Aftermarket driving light kits like those from PIAA would not require the programming.

 

iT would too difficult to see them in daylight since they were designed to simulate sunlight.

 

Yeah, I was talking about the rally lamps. Does the service department charge to program them?

 

Probably... but it depends on your service department.

 

I happen to be looking at my installation instructions for the drving lamps and it says nothing about programing after installation.

 

Just read the rally light install instructions and it states very plainly at the end "the vehicle does not need to be recoded after installation."

Sounds good to me...but I'll let you know in 2 weeks when I actually have a few free hours to install them!

 

Here is a link to the "official" MINI installation instructions that OutMotoring has posted. Page 17 show the necessary tech programming instructions. Do you have something different? My wife wants the OEM lights because she like the looks better than the PIAAs and the other offered at MINI Madness but not sure I want to pay the premium for these AND the programming charge. I'd be interested if any of you get your OEM lights installed and they work w/o the need for the dealer programming.

 

I've been shopping around and one site says the official MINI lights come with an on/off switch. I Dont know now

 

whats so hard about buying the factory lights and wiring them up yoursefl? doesnt sound like a real brain buster here.......

 

My instruction sheet, issued 1, 2003, does not have that coding page. It is not in the contents directory. The installation kit number is different if that counts for anything. I guess I'll find out as well when I find time to put them on.

 

No crap, but, since the closest dealership to where I live is 2 hours away, I'd like to know if I'll need to make an appointment to get them programmed.

 

why would you have to program them if you wire them up yourself. dont tie anything into the factory system. run a relay and pull power straight off the battery.

 

I agree that it would be "easier" to wire the lights yourself, independent of the factory setup. Also, it's probably pretty easy to hide the wiring and make it look as though it's a factory installation. The trouble comes in when your wiring potentially causes a problem and you take the car in for warranty work and it's not covered because we all know how dealers like to blame unrelated problems on things! Anyway, that's my reasoning for using the factory wiring that's supplied...but, I recall reading the part about no coding necessary. It's weird that the outmotoring instructions are different

 

Just came back from the dealer with the kit. Service techs and the parts counter both say no programming is necessary. It may have been necessary on the earlier models ('02-03) but apparently no longer required! I got the lights for a good price and wouldn't have been happy to be required to spend the extra $$ to make them function. Would have probably gone with the PIAA lights but my wife (her MINI) likes the MINI style lites better.

Sorry for bringing up the confusion on the programming - the OutMotoring instructions appeared to be "official"

 

For those kind of lights, Rally/Driving lamps. I would rather wire it up directly myself. so that u can turn them on anytime u need, and use your normal lights or highbeams and foglights with them. nothing has to be programed when its directly wired to the battery then to the switch


DM

 

Installed my lights this weekend - took way longer than I would have expected doing it myself. Had to go out and purchase a bolt to mount the fuse block bracket in the DS cowl area along the way. Hardest part of following the factory instructions was finding the BCU1 module (behind the PS front 1/4 panel) and then getting to it. No programming was required but if you follow the instructions to the letter, the lights will only be enabled when the high beams are on.

Word of advice: double check your measurements and then drop the bonnet to see where the holes will be drilled in the grill. If you go slightly too wide you end up drilling into one of the black plastic vertical grids behind the grill. I just barely missed it on both sides.

Also, I have the Euro parcel tray and the switch provided does not fit the knockout hole on the left side of the tray. I ended up cutting out the provided template and used to to mark the knockout plug for the switch and used a Dremel, x-acto knife and a small file to cut it out and finish with a nice tight fit.

 

Great info! Thanks!

I'll be installing mine next weekend...hopefully I don't do what you already warned me about

 

If you're nervous about whether to use "original" wiring then consider buying only the Wiring, Relay, and Switch from MINI. Then you can pick just the lights you like (like maybe the Cibie Tango). You'll probably save some $$ and still maintain "originality, from a warranty perspective.

 

I intend to extend the switch harness to move the switch to between the seats where the proper knock-out is. Anyone else tried this?

 

I was going to try, but I couldn't get the mirror and heated seat adjuster panel off to get the base of the shifter loose so I could move it up enough to get close. The spring clips just wouldn't release no matter what I did. So I settled for the default location. I agree that it would be a better location for it.

 

can't, my amp power switch is there :smile:

 

odd, no photos in this thread... hmmm