Interior/Exterior blacked out a couple things today



so blacked out my headlight rings and my chrome trim above the doors and tinted the lights. Also, i picked up H-lowering springs and JCW Exhaust today for $50 and i am painting the exhaust black as we speak
soo stoked!
soo stoked!
Thanks ! I will work on it .I have the pictures around some where. You are going to laugh when you see what I used. But the end product look good and easy to duplicate.
thats what it sorta looks like to me!
I have a home made tach mount in my old mustang that i made with PVC. you wouldn't know the difference if it wasnt painted and purdyfied.
haha
There are two screws in each, you have to open you glovebox to access one on the passenger side, and then to get to the upper screw on the driver's side, you have to pull down your knee bolster. To do that, you have to put your hands on either side of the cutout for the steering column cover. Be sure to be grabbing in there pretty well, because you can separate the plastic backing from the decorative outer panel.
Any way, pull with a little force, and it should come unclipped at the top, and swing down on a hinge system. Unscrew the two screws holding the downtubes on. To make things easier, clip your knee bolster back up where it was.
Next, you will have to detatch your center console that the gearshift comes out of. First, unscrew both screws located in your cupholders, then, you have to pry up your seat heater controls, don't worry, this is very easy. I used a butter knife to get between the plastics, and turned it sideways to pop it up. It should lift right out. Be careful that you don't lose the little brass clips that may begin falling out of the seat heater button assembly.
Unplug all wires from the seat heater controls, be sure to note (mentally at least) which plugs go where. Then unscrew both screws that are located below where the seat heater controls were. It might help to unclip your gearshift boot trim, just grab on either side and pull up. Just raise the ring/boot over your gearshift so it is out of your way.
Then, last but not least, unplug your cigarette lighter and the little bulb that lights the ring surrounding the lighter.
Now, your center console should be loose, slide both seats all the way back, and slide the center console backwards; your downtubes should be able to tilt out from behind your dash, and then slide down and out through the center console.
Installation is reverse of removal, I do hope this helps, and wasn't too convoluted...
-Chase
Any way, pull with a little force, and it should come unclipped at the top, and swing down on a hinge system. Unscrew the two screws holding the downtubes on. To make things easier, clip your knee bolster back up where it was.
Next, you will have to detatch your center console that the gearshift comes out of. First, unscrew both screws located in your cupholders, then, you have to pry up your seat heater controls, don't worry, this is very easy. I used a butter knife to get between the plastics, and turned it sideways to pop it up. It should lift right out. Be careful that you don't lose the little brass clips that may begin falling out of the seat heater button assembly.
Unplug all wires from the seat heater controls, be sure to note (mentally at least) which plugs go where. Then unscrew both screws that are located below where the seat heater controls were. It might help to unclip your gearshift boot trim, just grab on either side and pull up. Just raise the ring/boot over your gearshift so it is out of your way.
Then, last but not least, unplug your cigarette lighter and the little bulb that lights the ring surrounding the lighter.
Now, your center console should be loose, slide both seats all the way back, and slide the center console backwards; your downtubes should be able to tilt out from behind your dash, and then slide down and out through the center console.
Installation is reverse of removal, I do hope this helps, and wasn't too convoluted...
-Chase
I hope that you don't mind if I answer this, using a plastic prying tool, or a butter knife in my case
, locate a point about half way back on the on the pod, and then release the clip that is on that side. When locating the clip, your tool should not go very far into the clock pod. Once you have the clip on whatever side you are working on seemingly free, just pry downwards, it should release the metal clip that is on the front of the pod, as well as the other "clip" that is directly opposite the one you were working with. From there, it is self explanitory, unplug the clock, and then unscrew the inner workings from the outer pod.
Hope it helps!
BTW, to everybody that has posted pictures, amazing jobs so far. Everything is looking amazing!
-Chase
, locate a point about half way back on the on the pod, and then release the clip that is on that side. When locating the clip, your tool should not go very far into the clock pod. Once you have the clip on whatever side you are working on seemingly free, just pry downwards, it should release the metal clip that is on the front of the pod, as well as the other "clip" that is directly opposite the one you were working with. From there, it is self explanitory, unplug the clock, and then unscrew the inner workings from the outer pod.Hope it helps!
BTW, to everybody that has posted pictures, amazing jobs so far. Everything is looking amazing!
-Chase










