Interior/Exterior 07 MCS Hitch Receiver - For Bike Carrier
#27
Hitch/Spare Tire?
Has anyone used this hitch receiver on an R56 (non s)? Does it interfere with the space-saver spare at all? If not, can some of you with the S model post pictures of the underside of the receiver so I can see how much clearance it needs?
I was leaning toward roof racks, but it turns out I have a hard time lifting my bike over my head.
I was leaning toward roof racks, but it turns out I have a hard time lifting my bike over my head.
#28
Has anyone used this hitch receiver on an R56 (non s)? Does it interfere with the space-saver spare at all? If not, can some of you with the S model post pictures of the underside of the receiver so I can see how much clearance it needs?
I was leaning toward roof racks, but it turns out I have a hard time lifting my bike over my head.
I was leaning toward roof racks, but it turns out I have a hard time lifting my bike over my head.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...9&d=1200880460
Works Great. I bought just the 2" receiver which mounts by the 2 pins. It has a 1400lb towing capacity. I bought a bike carrier off of ebay for $80. I'm just now putting together a fold up trailer that I hope to be able to use to haul things home from the lumber yard when I need it and my motorcycle if needed to the shop.
I did the mounting of the hitch in my own garage. The spare tire (which is a full size tire) and exhaust heat shield are all still intact. My only issue I had with it was when I got to the point of drilling the holes into the bumper I then found out they didn't have the template for the R56 (non S) yet. So I ended up having to take my best guess at where to put the holes, a lot of praying, but it turned out great. And I like the question I get about what the holes are for.
#31
Has anyone used this hitch receiver on an R56 (non s)? Does it interfere with the space-saver spare at all? If not, can some of you with the S model post pictures of the underside of the receiver so I can see how much clearance it needs?
I was leaning toward roof racks, but it turns out I have a hard time lifting my bike over my head.
I was leaning toward roof racks, but it turns out I have a hard time lifting my bike over my head.
http://www.minidomore.com/pdf/2007_H...oper_and_S.pdf
-- which would leave it well aft of your spare, and slightly above it.
Biggest advantage of this hitch is that you can use a regular bike carrier with a 1-1/4 inch drawbar immediately -- no extra attachments needed. Attaching a carrier to my R56 MCS (see gallery) is a one-minute job; same to remove it.
Agree with you about roof-racks ... aaaaand, you ARE gonna scratch the roof one day. This solution makes me much more inclined to take the car and the bike out more often --
#32
The MiniDoMore receiver lines up with the rear foglight on your R56:
http://www.minidomore.com/pdf/2007_H...oper_and_S.pdf
-- which would leave it well aft of your spare, and slightly above it.
Biggest advantage of this hitch is that you can use a regular bike carrier with a 1-1/4 inch drawbar immediately -- no extra attachments needed. Attaching a carrier to my R56 MCS (see gallery) is a one-minute job; same to remove it.
Agree with you about roof-racks ... aaaaand, you ARE gonna scratch the roof one day. This solution makes me much more inclined to take the car and the bike out more often --
http://www.minidomore.com/pdf/2007_H...oper_and_S.pdf
-- which would leave it well aft of your spare, and slightly above it.
Biggest advantage of this hitch is that you can use a regular bike carrier with a 1-1/4 inch drawbar immediately -- no extra attachments needed. Attaching a carrier to my R56 MCS (see gallery) is a one-minute job; same to remove it.
Agree with you about roof-racks ... aaaaand, you ARE gonna scratch the roof one day. This solution makes me much more inclined to take the car and the bike out more often --
#33
#34
I used a dremmel tool with a simple round cutting disc and it took me about 10-15 minutes to cut the hole and adjust it so that the supplied rubber hole cover would push in securely. If you are reasonably handy with a dremmel tool, you can do it yourself. I strongly recommend that you first remove the rear valence from the bumper before you start cutting on it. You have to cut the rear valence all the way down to where it meets the painted bumper, and it would be easy to mess up the bumper if you try to cut it in place.
#35
I used a dremmel tool with a simple round cutting disc and it took me about 10-15 minutes to cut the hole and adjust it so that the supplied rubber hole cover would push in securely. If you are reasonably handy with a dremmel tool, you can do it yourself. I strongly recommend that you first remove the rear valence from the bumper before you start cutting on it. You have to cut the rear valence all the way down to where it meets the painted bumper, and it would be easy to mess up the bumper if you try to cut it in place.
Last edited by basil49; 05-13-2008 at 08:22 PM.
#37
I bought a neat Masterlock set pin from Wal-Mart that has a spring-loaded tip that folds down to lock the pin in place and secure the drawbar. Thus no fumbling under the bumper to insert a keeper pin into the set pin or to screw in a threaded set pin. Just push it through the hole and bend the tip down to lock it in place. Takes 5 seconds.
Thanks,
Rick
#39
I am looking into buying a mini and a secure bike rack is really important for me. I currently have a Thule roof rack for my 2000 BMW 328Ci which locks the bike to the rack. The rack is "secured" to the car by a really odd bolt that requires a special tool. I would prefer to go with a hitch type rack as I am paranoid that one day I will impale my bike on the opening to my garage. So, can the X-sport rack be locked to the car? and can the bike be locked to the rack?
#40
I am looking into buying a mini and a secure bike rack is really important for me. I currently have a Thule roof rack for my 2000 BMW 328Ci which locks the bike to the rack. The rack is "secured" to the car by a really odd bolt that requires a special tool. I would prefer to go with a hitch type rack as I am paranoid that one day I will impale my bike on the opening to my garage. So, can the X-sport rack be locked to the car? and can the bike be locked to the rack?
The Thule Doubletrack and T2 have integrated locks but they are much more expensive.
#41
I've been considering getting the X-sport rack. It doesn't come with any integrated locks so I believe you would have to get a locking hitch pin to lock the rack to the car and a cable lock to lock the bikes to the rack.
The Thule Doubletrack and T2 have integrated locks but they are much more expensive.
The Thule Doubletrack and T2 have integrated locks but they are much more expensive.
#42
http://www.saris.com/p-298-thelma-2-bike.aspx
#43
#45
#46
After reading your posts, I just HAVE to resurrect the thread with a really DUMB question: when you guys installed your minidomore hitch, did you have to put it up on jacks or anything? I am NOT a gear head, nor am I really great at DIY stuff (i think i get worse when having to do something to my beautiful car!). But I really want the hitch for towing a small trailer. .. .. .. . ..
#47
No, not at all.... we did it on the floor in the shop. Just unbolt the rear bumper and install the hitch. Pretty simple really...20-25 minutes at most.
The problem is the wiring. Mini uses some wierd positive ground setup... I still haven't gotten my wired yet.
You will have to make a hole for the receiver to stick through. I just installed a set of JCW aero bumpers and had to cut a hole in the rear bumper so I could use my hitch.
Mark
The problem is the wiring. Mini uses some wierd positive ground setup... I still haven't gotten my wired yet.
You will have to make a hole for the receiver to stick through. I just installed a set of JCW aero bumpers and had to cut a hole in the rear bumper so I could use my hitch.
Mark
#48
Well, let this tell you just HOW paranoid I am - I spent the extra $90 to get the pre-cut valance. I justify this expense since a.) I really SUCK at cutting things well the first time and b.) if I ever go to sell the MINI (for a new one of course), I can remove the hitch and cut panel and take them with me to the new MINI. THeoretically. It briefs well. Ack. WIRING!!!! I forgot about that. I suck at wiring too. What have I gotten myself into?? I don't have rear-fogs...is wiring going to be a bad problem?
#49
I put the MINIFINI hitch on my MINI. I purchased the wiring adapter from them also and it was relatively easy to install. All done behind the two rear side covers in the boot. There is a Grommet below the right rear tail light that I ran all the wires out through. The only hard wire to run was the one to the battery (the adapter from MINIFINI is an isolation module that isolates the trailer wiring from the cars wiring to prevent any shorts). For the battery wire, I had to take the car to an auto hobby shop just so I could raise the car on a lift to run the wire under the car and zip tie the wire up out of the way.
The only modification I did to the wiring harness was that it came with a 4-5' trailer plug extension. This was to actually connect to the trailer plug and then run it under the boot hatch to plug into the plug coming off of the isolation module. I didn't want to have it marring up the bumper plastic running under the hatch so I actually cut this extension off near the plug for the isolation module. Ran the wires up through the grommet below the right rear taillight and put connectors on them so it could be easily disconnected and removed if desired. Then just looped the rest of the harness cord under the rear and using a velcro strap it's tucked up out of sight. When I connect my trailer I just reach up and pull down the harness and connect it to my trailer.
The only modification I did to the wiring harness was that it came with a 4-5' trailer plug extension. This was to actually connect to the trailer plug and then run it under the boot hatch to plug into the plug coming off of the isolation module. I didn't want to have it marring up the bumper plastic running under the hatch so I actually cut this extension off near the plug for the isolation module. Ran the wires up through the grommet below the right rear taillight and put connectors on them so it could be easily disconnected and removed if desired. Then just looped the rest of the harness cord under the rear and using a velcro strap it's tucked up out of sight. When I connect my trailer I just reach up and pull down the harness and connect it to my trailer.
#50