OK, after a pm from 2minis, we are starting to develop a plan.

I need to know how many MINIs on the east coast would want to be involved in an install and track day in the West Palm Beach area. I have housing in that area, Moroso is there (the track I learned how to drive on actually), and it seems there are quite a few MCO folks in that general area of the world.

What dates work? I am thinking May, but have to confirm track availability.

I'll post a new thread when it looks like it might work.

Randy

 

Sound good. I could finish break in on the drive down from Atlanta.
Wes

 

Incredible write-up Randy! You deserve a big round of applause (or at least keyboard clatter) for your efforts.

I assume the exhaust header ball joint is taking the brunt of that movement. How close does it come to it's travel limit? And the radiator hoses? My biggest concern however is the clutch line -- those are usually pretty short -- thank god it's on the driver's side! I hate bleeding clutches.

But really, what are the limiting components and how do the other parts fare (fuel line, AC hoses, alternator wiring, etc.)?

 

The header actually has a flex line in it that allows it to move very freely. The driver side doesn't move near as much, so the cables all stay relatively close to their original positions. I was very surprised by a. how much room the a/c and radiator hoses have and b. how little the other stuff moves compared to engine movement. Nothing was streesed - the concern is more the clearance of the coil pack and the crank pulley to the chassis, and the clearance of the header heat shield to the chassis heat shield up top. There is a lot of room for the raising of the motor.

Let me know if you have any other questions.


Randy

 

The stock belt is 55 inches. Most use the same belt but understand that the tensioner will be at the lower end of its range. I swapped in a 54 1/2 inch belt from NAPA (Part # 060539). My eyeball assessment is that the tensioner is at the same level is was with the stock pulley. Hope this helps.

 

I have used both the stock belts and the NAPA 25-060535, which is slightly smaller than the one BlueMCS used.

Here is my feeling; the tensioner still has tension left with the new pulley size, and less tension is actually required due to the smaller diameter of the pulley - because it is smaller, there is more contact surface for the belt - more "wrap".

If you are doing the pulley swap at 25,000 miles, I would say to replace the belt, and while you're at it, get a smaller one. I don't see it necessary at all however, so just save your money (not that there's anything wrong with changing it).


Randy

 

Hi Rady, I'm new in this site and I just got my MCS S 05 and I want to replace the radiator hoses. Do you have instruction with picture on step by step replacing radiator hoses...

you aer the best...
pickme

 

Can the A/C compressor be removed with using a shorter belt (routing-wise).

Anybody ever done this?

Thanks!

JP

 

I am in Ireland and have a RHD MINI Randy do you see any problems with doing this to a RHD

suppose most of the cables are in the same place except the clutch cable
any thoughts or info would be greatly appriciated
hope to do this soon waiting for my pulley tool to arrive
someone said that the JCW belt was smaller as they fit a 14.7% reduction pulley or something like that
was going to order one of those for the job???????????

 

No, but it isn't too hard. It is more involved than you might think though. The tough part is getting to the thermostat housing side of things, as it is buried under the intake.

It makes things easier if you remove the bumper and space it out so you can get to the lower line too. That's illustrated in the how-to over on my site in the Supercharger Pulley method 1.

Good luck, and feel free to call.

Randy
www.webbmotorsports.com

 

Yes, but there are issues with keeping the belt on. We were working on just using an idler pulley in place of the compressor, but other more important things came in for development, so it was never finished. I think that would be the best way to handle it.

Randy

 

I would use any of the 15% pullies you have available to you over there - I'm pretty sure there are Altas available there.

It isn't any big deal to have a RHD car. I've had a few customers with RHD cars do the swap, and none of them mentioned any issues.

Hope that helps!
Randy

 

thanks for that Randy

colud i ask one more question what are the torque settings when replacing the engine mount bolts and more importantly do you know what the torque setting is on a taper pulley like the ALTA

 

engine mount bolts = 100Nm ( 74 ft-ib)
The ALTA pulley has 6m cap screws so the torque range should be 7-10 Nm
( 5-7 ft-lb) and use loctite. I disclaim knowing the ALTA spec this is just a general rule of thume for a 6m fastener.
ALTA has a thread on here for questions about ALTA product's, why don't you ask them to be sure.

 

1) buy pulley
2) buy belt
3) schedule mechanic / garage bay
4) pay mechanic (about two hours labor)
5) drive home and enjoy the rest of the day.

bahamabart

 

well its horses for courses
I would get absolutly no satisfaction out of someone else modifying my car
but I am fairly technically minded and love to read the real pro's here explaining how things work and understanding them and then putting that knowledge into practice for myself
I love it and the complete satisfaction of doing it getting it right and then enjoying it, its a total package for me but thats only my opinion,

 

The photos do not appear... Is this a forum issue or did Randy change the location of the photos?

 

http://store.webbmotorsports.com/ind...f69f09ded6ba9b

 

I just did my pulley swap tonight and noticed that is you use the deluxe puller from outmotoring.com then you don't need to remove the tensioner.



http://outmotoring.com/deluxe_superc...oval_tool.html

 

If it really works that is a tool worth having! Not bad at $100.

 

Hi Randy, I have bought A M7 16% pulley and am looking to install it myself. the pulley as you will know is a self-centering taperfit pulley. Now having looked at your writeup (excellent by the way) there are a couple of things that I'm not too sure about.

This might sound silly, but with the self-centering type pulley how does it actually center itself? do you tighten the bolts up after the belt and the tension has been put back on to the pulley, so that the belts tension pulls the pulley into the correct position on the supercharger shaft, or do you align the pulleys inner taper part first, and if so, is it a case that you just push the tapered part onto the shaft so that its flush with the end of the shaft, like you said in item 18 of you writeup, or is it pushed write up to the shaft shoulder?

Sorry for all the Q's

Regards

Craig

 

Hello Randy, I need to do this mod by myself and somehow the pictures are not showing anymore. Would you please help?

 

khuevo has a fantastic how-to on the LSMC site. http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/foru...read.php?t=549

We did it recently (few weeks ago) and it's pretty complete. The green car is mine.

Good luck!!!
Ike

 

I think this is one of those projects that looks scarier than it really is, i personally found the most difficult step in this process was getting the motormount points back in line. one trick i used when lowering the engine and getting it lined up with the motormounts was to use 2 jacks underneath the engine and lower or raise one side slightly to line the holes up.

 

Guys - These instructions are pretty awesome. Any recommendations on getting the pictures to download?

I have an Alta 17% pulley I would like to install this weekend, along with an exhaust and CAI. New to the forums! Your help is appreciated.