I did a search and did come up with much. I'm thinking on making a switch to the gatorback belt, but have no idea how difficult this job is. Does anyone know of a DIY "how to" post for this? Also, what tools will I need. The gatorback website makes reference to a tool the sell for changes belts where an idler pulley is used. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

First, It’s easier with this tool
you can get one here http://www.helix13.com/mini/products/intake-engine. You will also need something to place in a hole in the tensioner strap to hold it in place during the swap; a long nail, awl, or thick wire will work, there is also a stock tool for this. With tension off the belt, pull the belt from the idler pulley first and after routing the new belt save the idler for last.

 

Is it difficult to align the new belt? Also, how do I even get to it?

 

Park the car with wheels cranked to the right
Remove the four plastic expanding rivets in the fender liner, three in front, one on the inside
Remove the philips head screw directly above the tire, use a stubby screwdiver
Remove the philips head screw that holds the front of the fender liner, it's a little to the right of the fog lamp area, under the bumper cover, use the stubby here too
Gently pull the fender liner away from the body and around the sensor wire
Make a diagram of the belt routing
Using the tool that Keith posted,
Push down on the tool a couple times so you can see where the tensioner strap pokes up
Push down until you see the second hole, and insert the long end of a small allen wrench
ONCE YOU ARE SURE THAT THE TENSIONER IS LOCKED
Remove the belt

 

Why the Gatorback belt?
Jim

 

Another approach, use Rhino Ramps, remove the lower splash guard & air dam to access the crank and AC compressor pulleys. Hang the belt on the SC pulley, route in front of the tensioner pulley, and wrap on the crank, route under the AC pulley, pull up and over the alternator pulley, slide under the idler pulley.

A word of caution, there is a bolt that extends from the block directly above the tensioner arm, watch the arm and do not over extend it to the point were contact is made with the bolt. If over zealous use of leverage is applied to the arm, the arm can bend when contacting this bolt and later crack.

There are two versions of the stock tensioner tool, one with short dowels and one with longer dowels. MCSa owners should be sure to have the one with the shorter dowels. Also, if you have a tensioner tool that is not reinforced welded at the elbow, be sure to have that done.

When using a smaller diameter SC pulley effective belt wrap is reduced. Belts like the stock Conti are very durable but are stiff and don’t bend as easily as a suppler belt. The Gatorback has diagonal as well as longitudinal channels which in theory allow a tighter bend and still have good contact. Other proposed benefits are cooler running, better grip, and less noise. In fact the Gatorback belt is marketed as “The Quiet Belt” but those of us that use it know it whines. It is less expensive than NAPA belts but don’t make your decision based on price.

 

Once you do it the first time (change the belt, that is!) then you'll find your own "Short cuts" to do it. I removed the wheel well liner the first time, but now do it from above with juist lifting the motor.

But if you're starting to dig into stuff like this and more, get the haynes or bentley manual. They are not perfect, but the are pretty good.

Matt

 

From the searching that I did here on NAM, most the poeple who have gone with a Gatorback belt really like it. And, of course, they have a good reputation for quality. And while I've never heard one personally, a lot of people also like the sound of the Gatorback.

 

Wife and I both hated it. I didn't even mention it to her, and she thought something on the car was gonna blow!

Matt

 

if you don't properly lay the gatorbacks on the pullies, they will strip easily.. (mines stripped even after being installed by a well known mini tuner..)

 

Fair enough. I just replaced my belt (Thanks Matt!)and went with the OEM belt. I have the 15% supercharger and 2% crank pulleys and found the stock belt works fine. No slipping, squealing etc.
Cheers,
Jim

 

Artoo has 75,000 miles and I just bought the tensioner tool and a belt. Is it recommended to change the tensioner too? Anything else?

Rich

 

At that mileage, it's probably a good idea to replace the tensioner...and while you're at it, add in the Detroit Tuned tensioner stop/cable.

 

I bought the stop/cable and I think I am going with the old tensioner as they are expensive. But if it is a problem then the stop/cable will be some extra insurance.

Thanks.

Rich

 

Cheaper tool here $64.95

http://www.outmotoring.com/mini-coop...tensioner_tool

What is the recommended interval to replace the belts?

 

Not any more, up to 89.00 + Shipping now

 

Wow. I wish I had a Mini like yours. I just tried to replace my serpentine belt, and I think I'm going to end up calling a tow truck.

The belt broke. I took the tire off. There were 8 fender screws and 3 regular screws holding the fender on. I broke three plastic screws getting them off. Then it went downhill.

I went to AutoZone and they gave me a belt. The belt they gave me was 41 inches long and swore their computer said it was correct. I showed them the broken 53 inch belt. They gave me some random 53-inch belt.

I tried to get the tensioner pulley back. However, there's three or four things in the way of the place where you're supposed to put the pin to hold the spring back, so I can't even get near that end. While I was thinking about how to get that spring back, I thought I'd put the belt on around the rest of the parts. Nope, not going to happen. The top end of my tensioner pulley has a bracket that goes over the outside of the top pulley. There is not enough space between the flange and the pulley. There's literally no way to get the belt on as long as the tensioner is attached to the engine.

So, I guess I'm going to start attempting to pull the entire tensioner assembly off the engine -- however I see various gaskets on those bolts, so I wonder if I'm going to blow my engine if I get it back together again.

Oh, I have a 2005 S completely stock. 75K miles on the belt before it broke, so that's good!

 

NOOO... Don't remove the tesioner.

Where are you located?

 

I'm in Mooresville, NC. I gave up and called the wrecker. After 4 hours, I know my limits. I had disconnected the engine mounts, jacked up the engine, and even removed the tensioner -- but I still couldn't get enough space to get the belt in place. Thanks for offering help!

When I disconnected the tensioner, the tensioner pulley wanted to drop down to the supercharger pulley, leaving even less space to put the belt in place. I had an installation tool, but it was generic, but again, there was no way to get my hand in place to pin the spring back -- the engine mount was in my way. I was to the point where the only way I was going to get that installed was to remove all the engine mounts and lift the entire engine up and out to give me space!

 

or one like it, to retract the tensioner and lock it in place (I use some hangar wire for that, or an odd allen wrench.

The first time you do it it's a royal pain. After that, not so much so. At a dyno tune even, I think I did 4 or 5. Had it down to about 15 min. The ones that really such are the automatic S, as the engine is shifted over a bit.

Don't give up, this isn't a hard job once you've done it the first time.

Then you can change your belt once a year, and never really have to worry about it again.

Matt

 

I just couldn't see any physical way to reach the other end of the spring. I could see the spring, I could see the holes to hold it back -- but opposite the springs was nothing but the engine mount and the frame. I guess I could have done it with a long wire hanger, now that you mention it.

 

Very hard to do without the tool.....you would need at least a pry-bar and a second person to put in the allen key/screwdriver to lock it into place. It is likely when the belt broke there was some damage, so getting it towed so it can get looked at was probably a great idea. The first time I did mine, the local auto place gave me a belt about 2 sizes too large......they thought I was nuts when I told them it was a 1388mm (for stock) (this makes it a bit of an in-between size for standard inch sized belts). I now used the 535 version....I now have a 17%.

Good luck getting back on the road!!

 

I also use a wire coat hanger. About 20" long with a slight bend on the end to stick in the retaining hole. Easy-peasy.

Yea without factory tool it's a LOT harder to do, I've been there.

 

My method without the factory tool (used when I was forced to do this on another MINI without the right tool):
Socket stuck on the tensioner pivot bolt
Allen wrench stuck in one of the tensioner holes that the pins from the "real" tool go in.
Pry bar using the socket as a fulcrum and prying the allen wrench up.

Pain the the ****, but workable if you're patient and don't mind losing a couple of finders.

Now I have the real tool.

The coathanger wire is a GREAT tip. I'll do that next time.

 

Honestly I don’t know how you guys did it without the tool. I could never get enough leverage with a pry-bar, but I was eventually successful. I placed the pry-bar in the appropriate position, but put the handle down. I then lowered the car onto a set of blocks that forced the pry-bar up and loosened the tensioner. Also, I was trying to put the coat hanger into the holes in the tensioner pulley. A closer look at the Haynes manual showed the holes on the top of the spring above the tensioner.

Thanks for all the advice.