Sorry to hear that you are having (had) a tough time with the tensioner. I used a flat piece of steel from a 20" ratchet clamp w/ a 16mm socket over the tensioner bolt at top. (I had to grind the length of the socket to make it clear the chassis) Stuck a small bolt in the dowl hole in the lower tensioner assembly. I had a friend push down on the bar and I stuck a long pin in the second lock hole. It worked perfect and went without a hitch. I learned this method from a previous poster on NorthAmericanMotoring. He even had a bunch of photos.

 

any luck someone can refer me to that link?

Thanks!

Mike

 

I'm new to the forum, and it has already been very helpful. Here is my first real contribution. I'm sure the factory tool is very useful, but if you have pipe or a bar laying around, a 16mm socket, and a hex key, it isn't necessary. Also, the coat hanger people have suggested, or piece of sturdy wire to fit into the hole to keep it in place. Accessing the belt may take a few minutes, but removing belt tension takes only seconds.

Here is the socket and hex key in place. The hex key is the shiny thing you see sticking out in the distance.



Here is the bar placed on top of the socket, and under the hex key. I had a pice of 1" square steel bar from home depot laying around. It was about 3' long.



Pry Downward on the bar to compress the spring. Inside the spring is a flat bar with holes in it. Take your piece of heavy wire or hanger wire (It helps to bend it to the right angle first) and slip it through the second hole. Release pressure on the bar and the wire will keep the spring compressed.



I had my car in service mode at the time because I was replacing the alternator (went out on my drive home from purchasing the car), but it doesn't need to be. Here is a picture of my car with the bar sticking out of the engine compartment to give you an idea. It really helps to have a long bar to lever with. That spring is very stiff.



That's it. Change your belt, or your part and you're done. I think I removed the dip stick so it wouldn't be in the way... Easy.

Oh, one last tip:
When removing those plastic screws, take a flat screwdriver and pry a little bit to get the center part out before you unscrew it. This will loosen it a little, and crack any dirt or corrosion that will make it stick and strip the plastic screw. If you pop it out a little first, it will screw right out.

 

anybody know the recommended intervals for changing the belt?

also, i have a 17% s/c with 2% ati crank. i am unsure of what belt/what size is the proper choice for this setup.

ive only run the current belt for maybe 4k miles, 4.5k tops, but with a $400+ crank pulley under there, its a major better safe than sorry scenario.

any info is appreciated.

 

I just change my belt with a low budged tool ...hope this work for some of you guys...grettings from Panama.....tool price:$15.00 serpentine belt $10.64

 

I think I read every 20k swap the belt

 

This looks like the definitive R53 belt change tip thread, so I'll add my notes after just completing the job.

1. I believe the stock replacement interval according to the book is 60K. I changed mine (2004 R53) at 53K miles and the old belt looked practically brand new. While using a smaller supercharger pulley will undoubtedly increase stress somewhat, I see recommendations for change intervals on this forum that strike me as going WAY overboard. YMMV.

2. At 24K miles, I had a local shop put a Alta 15% pulley on the car. At the time Alta recommended using the stock belt for this pulley so we left the stock belt on. Shortly afterwards, Alta changed their recommendation to the slightly shorter NAPA/Gates 060539 for the 15% and this is what I used. It appears correct as I have about the right amount of tensioner strap showing (1st hole) whereas before the new belt the tensioner was nearing the limit. There was no evidence of slipping with the stock belt though. Some are recommending the even-shorter 060535 belt and while I'm sure it works fine, it would make routing the belt onto the pulleys harder as you have less slack to work with.

3. Someone else mentioned using a coat hangar as a tensioner holder pin tool rather allen wrenches or the doohickeys that ship with the tensioner release tools. I second this. I tried to use a small allen wrench or screwdriver, but a slightly bent coat hangar was SO much easier as it has a nice long handle to guide it into the somewhat inaccessible spot, especially if you're working solo and trying to get the pin in there while also pulling down on the tensioner tool. I didn't even attempt to do the job without the proper tensioner release tool.... it's hard enough as is. I posted a note on a local Mini web site and immediately got several offers of a tool loan, so there are inexpensive ways to get the tool.

4. Before removing the fender liner, print out the fender well illustration on the Pelican Parts website. It clearly shows where all the fasteners are. I stripped out one of the plastic rivets and had to drill it out but they're cheap and readily available.

5. The job is easier if you get as much electricals and the like out of the way. For example, removing the engine ground strap is easy and gives a little extra room.

6. Routing the new belt wasn't easy for me as even with the fender liner removed, you don't really have good access to all the pulleys. I eventually got it done, but it takes a lot of fiddling and patience. I think what worked best is the slip it over the idler pulley last. The Bentley has a great routing diagram. If you don't have the Bentley or another resource, make a good diagram before you take the old belt off. It's not obvious where it goes.

Good luck. I'm sure it gets easier, but I have little interest in doing it again.

- Mark