How To Maintenance :: Oil Change How-To

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Old Jun 13, 2005 | 08:41 AM
  #51  
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Computer reminder of oil change

:smile: Thank you for posting all the info on changing the oil, my husband has been fretting over the oil in the mini for two months now. He just doesn't think it should go that long. One question though does the cars computer automatically change after you have done this to remind you of the next oil change? Or is that something that needs to be reset at the dealer? thanks again loops
 
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Old Jun 13, 2005 | 09:10 AM
  #52  
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From: Hampton, VA
Originally Posted by loops
:smile: Thank you for posting all the info on changing the oil, my husband has been fretting over the oil in the mini for two months now. He just doesn't think it should go that long. One question though does the cars computer automatically change after you have done this to remind you of the next oil change? Or is that something that needs to be reset at the dealer? thanks again loops
Reset by the dealer.
It would be best to leave it alone just so your dealer doesn't have a reason to whine.

It can actually be done at home but don't.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2005 | 09:19 AM
  #53  
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From: Bishop, Ca
Originally Posted by obehave
Reset by the dealer.
It would be best to leave it alone just so your dealer doesn't have a reason to whine.

It can actually be done at home but don't.
I reset mine at home because it seem like alot of driving to get it reset (8 hour round trip ). I'll see if I can find the procedure here somewhere, I have them in my glovebox so I dont have to search every time I change the oil.


Edit - I think this is the procedure in this thread is the one I used https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...=service+reset


Nik
 
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Old Jun 13, 2005 | 09:27 AM
  #54  
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Its 90 plus dollars in the DC area dealers. Why?

Its 90 plus dollars in the DC area dealers. Why?
 
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Old Jun 13, 2005 | 12:03 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Drsms22
Its 90 plus dollars in the DC area dealers. Why?
Because they can. They know that few quick oil change places stock the MINI filters.

In reality it shouldn't be any more than it costs to do any other car - $35 or so.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2005 | 12:07 PM
  #56  
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On my 8th oil change. The last one didn't go so well; the O ring apparently broke while screwing the filter housing back together. Upon starting the car to check for leaks, I found one...rather large. Did it all over again. Never had this happen in 1.5 million miles of driving.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2005 | 12:54 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by meb
On my 8th oil change. The last one didn't go so well; the O ring apparently broke while screwing the filter housing back together. Upon starting the car to check for leaks, I found one...rather large. Did it all over again. Never had this happen in 1.5 million miles of driving.

Don't know if this is true for you, I'm just throwing this out.
Make sure you prelube the O-Ring. A couple drops of clean oil do just fine.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2005 | 01:10 PM
  #58  
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I did, as I usually do with these sort of things. I should have anticipated a leak as the housing went on a little 'funny'. A quart of oil all over the driveway, what a mess!


What's a mother to do? Thanks for heads up anyway

Michael
 
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 06:47 AM
  #59  
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Drain plug torque

Does the drain plug on the Mini require any special torqueing different from any other car?
 
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 11:42 PM
  #60  
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From: phoenix
dont know the spec but do not over tighten the oil pan is aluminium
 
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 11:51 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Drsms22
Does the drain plug on the Mini require any special torqueing different from any other car?
25 Nm (18 ft-lb)
 
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 11:55 AM
  #62  
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according to http://www.onlineconversion.com/torque.htmthe conversion is

25 Nm = 18.43 Lb-ft (for the oil filter housing)!!!!

Drain plug = 31 Nm, or 22.86 (23) Lb-ft

Marty
 

Last edited by MartyR; Jun 15, 2005 at 11:59 AM. Reason: enlightenment
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 08:46 PM
  #63  
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From: Uniontown, PA
Originally Posted by MartyR
according to http://www.onlineconversion.com/torque.htmthe conversion is

25 Nm = 18.43 Lb-ft (for the oil filter housing)!!!!

Drain plug = 31 Nm, or 22.86 (23) Lb-ft

Marty
Sorry for the screw-up...don't know where my head was 25Nm = 18 ft-lb per Bentley Service Manual. Torque is the same for the filter housing.

Thanks for the quick catch MartyR.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2005 | 09:40 AM
  #64  
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Fitting Filter in Housing

Randy (or anyone),

Using your instructions, I have managed to remove and install the oil filter casing (I removed the casing so I could re-inforce the center prior to tapping a thread for an oil-pressure sender). Like most users I experienced the first time challenges of lining-up the casing (hand tight) on re-installation.

However, I am a little concerned if I installed the new filter in the casing correctly. Since I was originally having difficulties lining up the casing by hand, I decided to push the new filter tightly into the casing prior to fitment

Will having the filter fitted tightly on the casing cause any oil circulation issues in my car? My car is an 02 MCS with a filter like that shown in Randy's instructions.

Appreciate your comments or advice.

DFD
 
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Old Jul 17, 2005 | 08:22 PM
  #65  
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just a question.. can a spanner be used instead of a 36mm socket and wrench?
 
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Old Jul 18, 2005 | 05:29 AM
  #66  
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I kinda doubt it. Besides, why bother when you can pick-up a 36mm at Sears for just a few $$. Besides, you'll feel better
Originally Posted by skuzy
just a question.. can a spanner be used instead of a 36mm socket and wrench?
 
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Old Jul 19, 2005 | 12:30 AM
  #67  
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sorry should of mentinoed this earlier..

where im from - u cant buy 36mm sockets unless u buy a set of 50 other sockets for about $150 - 200.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2005 | 12:58 AM
  #68  
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That's funny cause I sheared off a brand new set of Harbor Freight tools--13mm wrench the first time I tried to remove my drain plug bolt---after the dealer did an oil change. I then used an impact wrench with a max 250ft pound pressure---had to hold it for about a minute before the bolt came off.

Obviously the dealer didn't put it back to spec!

I replaced mine with a Fumoto valve so I'll never have to worry about it again.

Richard

Originally Posted by MartyR
Drain plug = 31 Nm, or 22.86 (23) Lb-ft

Marty
 
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Old Jul 19, 2005 | 07:01 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by skuzy
sorry should of mentinoed this earlier..

where im from - u cant buy 36mm sockets unless u buy a set of 50 other sockets for about $150 - 200.
Where are you from
 
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Old Jul 19, 2005 | 10:12 AM
  #70  
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You obviously have internet. Can buy 36mm socket on-line at www.sears.com
$6.99 plus shipping
 
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Old Aug 1, 2005 | 04:58 PM
  #71  
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great write up
 
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 08:54 PM
  #72  
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with chrono pack

This is such great information. BIG thanks. However, I have not yet read any thread mentioning the procedure for oil change with chrono pack. Is everything identical to those without Chrono pack? It will be extremely helpful. Thank you very much.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 06:33 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by MiniKJ
This is such great information. BIG thanks. However, I have not yet read any thread mentioning the procedure for oil change with chrono pack. Is everything identical to those without Chrono pack? It will be extremely helpful. Thank you very much.
??? The chrono pack is nothing more than a bunch of gauges, right? I can't imagine how that would change the process of replacing the oil. There are no special sensor locations added around the oil-filter housing (that I've seen).
 
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Old Dec 28, 2005 | 12:28 AM
  #74  
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Is hand tightling good enough to torque the filter to 18ft-lb? I don't think there's room for a socket and a torque wrench in that space.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2005 | 07:18 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by MiniKJ
Is hand tightling good enough to torque the filter to 18ft-lb? I don't think there's room for a socket and a torque wrench in that space.
While you can probably get the filter to 18lb/ft with your hands, don't try. Being wrong would be a very expensive mistake. There's plenty of space if you get the right wrench, although you probably won't be able to get a proper torque wrench in there.

I used a Craftsman "1/2 in. Drive Ratchet, Flex-Head Fine Tooth" (linking to the Craftsman site didn't work) with a 36mm socket, and was able to advance the threads about 2 clicks at a time, then verify the final setting with a torque wrench. It was tedious, but MINI didn't leave us much space.
 
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