>>Compared to the canisters on old Minis, Minors, Spridgets, and, yes. MGA's, this new one is Sweet! ... in terms of how it comes off and reseals, anyway ...
>>A Spin-On is (sometimes) convenient, but if the element inside is the only thing that gets dirty, why throw the 'canister' away with it each time? ... kinda playing 'devil's advocate' here but from an environmental standpoint, this canister setup only makes sense ...

that totally makes sense. Also, from a performance standpoint, if you can see the filter you can also see what if anything is getting filtered out (i.e. metal shavings).

 

NOTE!

I drove mine to the edge of the driveway (a drop off of about 10&quot and was able to easily reach the drain plug without stands or ramps. Keep this in mind for ease & simplicity.

Jeff

 

>>It should be noted that the early Coopers have a plastic retaining post and spring. The spring goes into the housing, then the filter goes on. All filters are the same now.
>>
>>Hope that helps!
>>
>>Randy
>>720-841-1002
>>http://www.mini-motorsport.com
>>

Randy,
I have a 2003 Cooper, delivered on 12/21/2002. I have the old style canister, the filter is spring loaded inside the canister. I can not remove the filter from the canister is there a trick to it? Also the filter I bought is not the same as the one that is now in the canister. I bought from MINI filter # 11-42-7-512-446 ( looks the same as the one in your instructions).

Thanks,

retroom

 

There's not a trick - it jsut is a little tough to get to come out if they didn't lube the rubber seal when they installed it. Keep trying!

The filter you have is wrong. Just take it back to the dealer - they should know what you are talking about (I hope!).

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Randy

 

>>There's not a trick - it jsut is a little tough to get to come out if they didn't lube the rubber seal when they installed it. Keep trying!
>>
>>The filter you have is wrong. Just take it back to the dealer - they should know what you are talking about (I hope!).
>>
>>Let me know if you have any other questions.
>>
>>Randy

Randy,

Thanks for the quick reply. Since I couldn't remove the filter from the canister I reinstalled the canister.

I don't think you understand my problem. I can get the canister off the engine. I can not remove the filter from inside the canister. The filter seems to be spring loaded inside the canister. I pull on it ( the filter) as hard as I can and it won't come out.

retroom

 

What about tricks to remove the oil filter cannister with the oil pressure sending unit installed?

 

Tips on tools
A Porsche oil line wrinch is 36mm and works great on the oil filter.
At my Mini/ BMW dealer the parts guy said the oil is botteled by Mobil thus the part number starting with a "M" and it's only $2.60 a quart.[img]null[/img][img]null[/img]

 

I just changed my oil this past weekend and I have to say it was really easy. I was a little worried about spilling oil everywhere but I took my time unscrewing the canister and the oil came out of the filter and back into the oil pan and out the plug. I put a rag down just in case but I didn't spill a drop. (until I accidentally hit the cardboard I had the oil catch pan on and a little sloshed out)I got the 36mm socket from sears and it worked great (1/2" drive) Really easy oil change compared to some cars that I've had.

Also I have to say that I really like the canister style filter. I managed to not spill a drop and it was nice to see the actual filter element. I always manage to spill a little oil out of a screw on filter but not so with this canister. So while some may say it's antiquated, I like it!
-Chris

 

MINI and BMW are not the only ones to use canister filters. I had a 1984 Mercedes-Benz 300D turbo diesel with a large canister filter, and I believe Volkswagen's VR6 engine to this day uses a canister filter. There are probably others, I just don't know what they are :smile:

I'm not sure why one would be preferred over the other. Spin-on filters are usually easier to deal with but canister filters aren't exactly rocket science or neurosurgery either.

 

Come over to my house and help me with mine. The dealer screwed the canister on so tight I couldn't budge it with the ratchet. I had to take the car back to the dealer so they could loosen it. When I asked them about the tightness he said they used a bar, he held his hands about two feet apart, about that long. I think I can get it off now, but will the filter come out.

retroom




>>I just changed my oil this past weekend and I have to say it was really easy. I was a little worried about spilling oil everywhere but I took my time unscrewing the canister and the oil came out of the filter and back into the oil pan and out the plug. I put a rag down just in case but I didn't spill a drop. (until I accidentally hit the cardboard I had the oil catch pan on and a little sloshed out)I got the 36mm socket from sears and it worked great (1/2" drive) Really easy oil change compared to some cars that I've had.
>>
>>Also I have to say that I really like the canister style filter. I managed to not spill a drop and it was nice to see the actual filter element. I always manage to spill a little oil out of a screw on filter but not so with this canister. So while some may say it's antiquated, I like it!
>>-Chris

 

>>Come over to my house and help me with mine. The dealer screwed the canister on so tight I couldn't budge it with the ratchet. I had to take the car back to the dealer so they could loosen it. When I asked them about the tightness he said they used a bar, he held his hands about two feet apart, about that long. I think I can get it off now, but will the filter come out.
>>
>>retroom


I think it mainly depends on when you got yours. I understand that some early builds had a spring in the canister. Mine just popped in and popped out. If you are really having a hard time getting it off, get a large pipe and put it over your ratchet (the longer the pipe the easier it is to get off). Once you get it a little loose you should be able to take off the pipe and just use the ratchet. If you live in the NJ/PA area I'd be more than happy to give you a hand if you really want.
-Chris

 

Thanks for the offering to help. I was just being flip, I live in California so it's not possible for us to get together.

I do have the spring loaded canister. I'm surprised because I thought those were phased out by build date, 10/1/2002. The filter is a bear to get out of my canister. The first time I tried I gave up and had the dealer replace the filter. When I asked the service manager about it he said to pull real hard on it and it should come out!!!

I was really surprised I couldn't screw off the canister after the dealer had installed it because the first time I removed it, with a ratchet, it was really easy. I wasn't planning on using a 3-foot long pipe, not after my first experience removing it.

Like I said in the last post, the dealer didn't torque it as much so I should be able to get it off.




retroom





>>>>Come over to my house and help me with mine. The dealer screwed the canister on so tight I couldn't budge it with the ratchet. I had to take the car back to the dealer so they could loosen it. When I asked them about the tightness he said they used a bar, he held his hands about two feet apart, about that long. I think I can get it off now, but will the filter come out.
>>>>
>>>>retroom
>>
>>
>>I think it mainly depends on when you got yours. I understand that some early builds had a spring in the canister. Mine just popped in and popped out. If you are really having a hard time getting it off, get a large pipe and put it over your ratchet (the longer the pipe the easier it is to get off). Once you get it a little loose you should be able to take off the pipe and just use the ratchet. If you live in the NJ/PA area I'd be more than happy to give you a hand if you really want.
>>-Chris

 

Well, I changed the oil in my MCS for the first time today. While I had read the instruction part of this thread, I didn't read all the replies, so even though I stuffed a wadd of paper towels under the oil canister, I did loose some oil by pulling the canister right off once I had it unscrewed. I'll have to try the unscrew and let sit for 5 minutes the next time. Everything went great otherwise with the car lift making the oil change much easier.

One thing I found that the first time beginner needs to know is to make sure the canister is properly lined up. Don't put the ratchet to the canister until you've been able to hand screw the canister down to the o-ring seal. Not being able to see the canister lining up with the block makes it hard to know when it is lined up. I had to hold the canister in place with a couple fingers while I ran my finger around the threaded area to get the alignment even so the canister would screw on. Until I finally did this, the canister would screw on a little bit but then hang up. My first thougt was to put the ratchet on the canister and give it a crank. But, my better judgement won out and I felt around the threaded area and found that the canister was not lined up correctly.

As for the canister compared to the spin on throw aways, Give me the throw aways. Also, any manufacturer that can't fit a filter to a motor where the filter screws vertically into place from below should be shot! I've driven Chevys for years, and the oil filter location on the V8s is simply perfection. With the catch pan located under the oil pan while the oil is draining from the oil pan, the filter can be removed and lowered into the catch pan without spilling a single drop on the floor or on the car.

 

Oil change is pretty easy. The only thing I got a little tripped up on was how hard it would be to start the thread of the catch can going back on. 36mm at Sears was simple and got a 1/2 wrench with articulating head that worked like a dream....

If my oil pan would fit under the MCS ground effects I think I could do it without jacking it up!

 

Surprising, my 2001 Oldsmobile Intrigue (3.5L shortstar 24v V6) uses a canister!

 

BUMP



I'm going to be doing this soon.

Can you get to the drain plug without ramps or jackstands?

 

>>I'm going to be doing this soon.
>>
>>Can you get to the drain plug without ramps or jackstands?

Check out friedduck's post near the top of this page. It's definitely possible, unless the dealer has torqued the drain plug on so hard that you need to get close to it for leverage. It's within arm's reach of the front of the car.

 

I changed my oil this weekend for the first time, and it went pretty smoothly, thanks to the info I read on NAM.

Here are a few pics.

My driveway slopes up to meet the garage entrance, so I was able to get away without using ramps or jackstands.





That's my 13mm wrench on the floor at the bottom right.

 

Got a 36mm Craftsman socket, 13mm wrench, and a set of Rhino ramps at Sears for $41.00 bucks out the door. The right tools make all the difference. Thanks for all the tips on this thread. it was a HUGE help. [img]null[/img]

 

Has anybody changed their oil after installing an oil plug with nipple?

Because I'm installing a skid plate, I installed an oil drain plug with nipple, so I can just use a plastic hose to drain oil without removing skid plate..

I do wonder if draining thru the smaller diameter of the nipple/hose will do an adequate job of removing old oil--the gunge & crud should be taken care of by the oil filter, right?

So is there ever need to remove the whole plug? Hoping for reassurance...

 

>>Has anybody changed their oil after installing an oil plug with nipple?

Nope, none that I heard of but it is possible.

>>Because I'm installing a skid plate, I installed an oil drain plug with nipple, so I can just use a plastic hose to drain oil without removing skid plate..

There is another option. A top side oil changer that works through your dipstick for $49.95
http://www.promini.com/products/oilchanger.shtml
You can still removed your oil filter once the oil is drained.
Your changer should be used only for synthetic oil and not mixed with other regular oils.


>>I do wonder if draining thru the smaller diameter of the nipple/hose will do an adequate job of removing old oil--the gunge & crud should be taken care of by the oil filter, right?

Yes, It will be OK except for the really slow draining rate. Oil junk is supposed to be microscopic smaller than sand.

>>So is there ever need to remove the whole plug?
Only if you want to drain at a faster rate or if you want to spill oil on the ground.

 

Torque values are important! Follow the recommendations!

If you don’t have a metric calibration torque wrench you convert Nm to ft-lb by multiplying the Nm value by 0.74.

25 Nm = 18 ft-lb = 220 in-lb
31 Nm = 23 ft-lb = 275 in-lb

 

The pictures aren't working

 

Try this page:
Oil Change
I just did it for the first time and it went really well.

 

The How-to pics all work over on the Webb Motorsports site in the Garage section.

Here's a link to this one:

http://www.webbmotorsports.com/forum...topic.php?t=10

Let me know if you have any questions.

Hope that helps!
Randy