How To Maintenance :: Oil Change How-To
Neutral
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Hey guys, is it just me or are none of the pictures loading on the first page? I can't seem to see any of them - and I've used two different browsers. Does anyone have the instructions in a pdf that they can send me?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Neutral
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
I have some pics from my 2005 R53 oil change here:
http://www.billswebspace.com/mcs.htm#R53OilChange
http://www.billswebspace.com/mcs.htm#R53OilChange
Thanks so much for the photos and instructions. They were incredibly helpful today for my oil change. And the rest of your detailed DIY instructions have got me thinking about some future projects.
I must admit that I never quite figured out how to bring the oil filter up and out.....I'm not sure what I was doing wrong, but I just kept hitting interference bringing it upward. I finally just lowered it down and then grabbed it from underneath.
5th Gear
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 667
Likes: 31
From: West Seattle
I broke a socket trying to get my drain plug off the first time. Had to go to a MINI independent service center and have them do the oil change. Once you start doing your own oil changes you won't (shouldn't) run into that again, and that's very satisfying.
I would recommend trying the oil filter canister first and making sure it will come loose for you before draining out all the oil. When I was able to do my first oil change I drained the oil first, and then got a big scare when I couldn't figure out how to loosen the canister! A piece of pipe on the wrench solved that problem.
I'm using the Mahle oil filters and discovered that pushing the filter on the engine once(without it being in the housing) makes it easier to put the filter on when it is in the housing. Without the housing in the way, you can get the leverage to pop it on so it will go on easy when it is in the canister. Otherwise it is very easy to cross thread the housing- once I have "deflowered" the filter the housing/filter combination is very easy to thread on correctly, especially if you do it from underneath.
To that end, having the car up on ramps instead of jacks is huge.
And read the first post carefully. I have head of people draining the transmission lube instead of the oil- the drain plugs aren't that far apart.
Val
I would recommend trying the oil filter canister first and making sure it will come loose for you before draining out all the oil. When I was able to do my first oil change I drained the oil first, and then got a big scare when I couldn't figure out how to loosen the canister! A piece of pipe on the wrench solved that problem.
I'm using the Mahle oil filters and discovered that pushing the filter on the engine once(without it being in the housing) makes it easier to put the filter on when it is in the housing. Without the housing in the way, you can get the leverage to pop it on so it will go on easy when it is in the canister. Otherwise it is very easy to cross thread the housing- once I have "deflowered" the filter the housing/filter combination is very easy to thread on correctly, especially if you do it from underneath.
To that end, having the car up on ramps instead of jacks is huge.
And read the first post carefully. I have head of people draining the transmission lube instead of the oil- the drain plugs aren't that far apart.
Val
Yellow,
I saw some other forum about changing oil and it says that you should losen the filter a bit before taking out the drain plug. Is that necessary? I have a 2004 Mini Cooper S! Thanks. Also, would you recommend using Mobile 1?
I saw some other forum about changing oil and it says that you should losen the filter a bit before taking out the drain plug. Is that necessary? I have a 2004 Mini Cooper S! Thanks. Also, would you recommend using Mobile 1?
By loosening the top of the canister and letting it drain, you're much less likely to make a mess during the process. IMO Mobil 1 is a fine alternative.
Yellow,
I have one problem. I cant even take out my drain plug. It is super hard to take out. it wont even budge. I don't know about the filter housing yet because I didn't try. Any advise?
I have one problem. I cant even take out my drain plug. It is super hard to take out. it wont even budge. I don't know about the filter housing yet because I didn't try. Any advise?
6th Gear
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,344
Likes: 0
From: Uniontown, PA
Remember "Lefty Loosey--Righty Tighty"
I was under the car using all my might. Ill try to use a 6 point pin. Whenever I thought it was moving, it was actually just slipping off the head. Thanks for the right of way. LOL! I dont have a power bar, but I have a torque wrench. I really don't know what im doing, but would It be easier to loosen the screw with a torque wrench? If so, How would I set the torque too?
6th Gear
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,344
Likes: 0
From: Uniontown, PA
I was under the car using all my might. Ill try to use a 6 point pin. Whenever I thought it was moving, it was actually just slipping off the head. Thanks for the right of way. LOL! I dont have a power bar, but I have a torque wrench. I really don't know what im doing, but would It be easier to loosen the screw with a torque wrench? If so, How would I set the torque too?
whOOps01, common problem, the rubber gasket on the plug itself swells and the plug can be a real b**** to remove. You'll want a GOOD 6-point (not 12-point) socket and a breaker bar, lefty-loosey-righty-tighty, make sure the car is secure on ramps with blocks, not on some flimsy single-point-of-failure jack! I eventually had to take mine back to the dealer (who had done the last oil change) to have them remove it. I had rounded off the head so they welded another plug on it and it still took a breaker bar to remove!
Don't use the torque wrench for this unless you have to, as the calibration will be thrown off. Now, if you've already used it, you can get a cheapo replacement at Harbor Freight for like $10, so that's an inexpensive "breaker bar", though a regular bar will do it better! Try not to round off the head!!!
When you finally do get it off, replace it with the oil drain plug from a 1975-2000 4-banger VW - it's the same thread but a 19mm bolt head (it takes a copper crush washer too). That way you're not trying to take off the 13mm (too small IMHO) head. If you're really ****, get one of the plugs with a magnet in the bottom.
Good luck!
Don't use the torque wrench for this unless you have to, as the calibration will be thrown off. Now, if you've already used it, you can get a cheapo replacement at Harbor Freight for like $10, so that's an inexpensive "breaker bar", though a regular bar will do it better! Try not to round off the head!!!
When you finally do get it off, replace it with the oil drain plug from a 1975-2000 4-banger VW - it's the same thread but a 19mm bolt head (it takes a copper crush washer too). That way you're not trying to take off the 13mm (too small IMHO) head. If you're really ****, get one of the plugs with a magnet in the bottom.
Good luck!
1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
I have some pics from my 2005 R53 oil change here:
http://www.billswebspace.com/mcs.htm#R53OilChange
http://www.billswebspace.com/mcs.htm#R53OilChange
Thanks again.
pstur1
2nd Gear
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 55
Likes: 1
From: Woodland Hills California
i used this link http://www.billswebspace.com/MiniR53...catorRESET.htm
it cleared the oil service but now when i start the car it says inspection 15500, is this correct? the car has 123xx miles on it.
it cleared the oil service but now when i start the car it says inspection 15500, is this correct? the car has 123xx miles on it.
2nd Gear
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta GA
Maybe someone can help me understand the "service timer" indicator thingy.
Per the manual when i turn the key on i should see how many "estimated" miles to my next oil change - however i only see INSPECTION 5500 MILES.
status: 2006 MC 20680 miles
should it say oil and what does inspection indicate?
Per the manual when i turn the key on i should see how many "estimated" miles to my next oil change - however i only see INSPECTION 5500 MILES.
status: 2006 MC 20680 miles
should it say oil and what does inspection indicate?
OVERDRIVE
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,201
Likes: 8
From: Norfolk, VA
Maybe someone can help me understand the "service timer" indicator thingy.
Per the manual when i turn the key on i should see how many "estimated" miles to my next oil change - however i only see INSPECTION 5500 MILES.
status: 2006 MC 20680 miles
should it say oil and what does inspection indicate?
Per the manual when i turn the key on i should see how many "estimated" miles to my next oil change - however i only see INSPECTION 5500 MILES.
status: 2006 MC 20680 miles
should it say oil and what does inspection indicate?
1) Oil Change
2) Inspection I (which also includes an oil change)
3) Oil Change
4) Inspection II (which also includes an oil change)
Then the cycle repeats itself.
So what you're seeing is that you're 5500 miles away from an inspection (most likely "Inspection I", considering your total miles).
When you have the inspection performed and the service counter reset, you'll start seeing "Oil Change 15500 miles" and it will start counting down from there.
You can find links here on NAM as to what is done during Inspection I and Inspection II.
2nd Gear
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta GA
thanks for the fast reply. Im getting tools filters oil and so on together for my first Mini oil change. but gotta say - a little scurd of screwing up the onboard maintenance cycle comp. All of my "dead" american made oil changes as you know are dump pump and drive till it pops.
Neutral
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Oil Plug Washer
SMKKVK,
I haven't researched whether or not there are benefits to using a canister, but I know that BMW has used this method for some time. My personal opinion is that they do it to keep you going to the dealer for parts.
As for the plug seal, it's neither o-ring nor copper. It has a built-in hard plastic mating surface - unique, eh?
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Randy
I haven't researched whether or not there are benefits to using a canister, but I know that BMW has used this method for some time. My personal opinion is that they do it to keep you going to the dealer for parts.
As for the plug seal, it's neither o-ring nor copper. It has a built-in hard plastic mating surface - unique, eh?
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Randy
2nd Gear
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
Followed instructions ... almost
Dang it. Thought I followed the list perfectly. Now, just realized I did not lube the end of the filter going back in the housing. Hope this doesn't mean the filter is going to stick. I intend on doing oil changes now on @ 7,500 intervals, so hopefully this is not enough time to allow the filter top to fuse or anything. I had lubed the O-ring, and didn't realize the next section was referring to lubing up the filter's top. Oh, well. Everything else went well, except couldn't get the filter cap to come loose. Had to head to Advanced Auto Parts for a 1/2 in. metric socket to match the breaker bar my neighbor loaned me. That and some spray lube loosened it up. Excellent tutorial.
Here is the oil change how-to that a lot of people have been asking about.
Tools required:
13mm socket or wrench
36mm socket or wrench
Jack and stands
Oil drain pan
4.7 (5 is OK) quarts of 5W30 full synthetic (I prefer Redline - Amsoil and Motul are great too)
New filter replacement from MINI
Here's the filter kit from MINI and my favorite oil.
Time required:
About 30-45 minutes
1. Start by making sure the car is warm - this will help to make sure you get as much of the old oil out as possible.
2. Jack up the car, and use jack stands (for you 2minis). Here is the best jack point we've been able to find. It will lift the entire side, so you can put the jack stands under the factory jack points. This picture is looking forward on the driver side.
3. Drain the oil from the case before you remove the filter. This is a 13mm, and be careful, as the oil is warm.
Technique is to remove the plug until it is barely threaded, then, using two fingers above where the draining oil path will be, pull the plug up and away.
When you do it right, you won't get any oil on you or the floor :D .
4. Let the oil drain, and move to the top of the car. The filter is a canister type on the backside of the block to the passenger side of the center. It is removed using either a 36mm wrench (some of the larger adjustables will get this big as well) or a 36mm socket and ratchet.
This is looking at the filter from the passenger side.
Here's the 36mm socket with a ratchet. You can find these just about anywhere - this one is just from Home Depot - but they are also at Sears and most auto parts stores.
Let's have a closer look at the socket on the filter.
When you pull the filter off, it's tough to keep oil from getting everywhere, but moving the drain pan about six inches more toward the passenger side from where it was for the case drain plug will minimize the mess.
Note the orientation of the filter in the housing.
Here is the top of the filter coming out of the housing.
This is the part of the filter that goes into the housing.
You will notice there is an O-ring around the housing. This is included in the new filter kit, and should be changed.
5. Here is the removal of the O-ring. You don't need this tool - anything, even a pen, will work. Be careful not to score the O-ring seat.
6. Once you have the O-ring off of the car, clean out the housing. Some brake clean works in lieu of a parts washer.
7. It's a good idea to dip the new O-ring in some clean oil, or spray it down with WD-40. This will keep it from wanting to roll off the housing while you are screwing it on to the block again. It installs by just slipping it over the housing into it's groove.
8. Here is the new filter in the housing. After installing it in the housing, oil the rubber seal with new oil. This will make you happy the next time you take the filter off.
9. Reinstall the filter on the block. You will need to push the filter onto the guide - it sorta feels like it pops on. Screw the housing back on, and torque it to 25Nm, which isn't that much more than hand tight.
10. Reinstall the drain plug under the car, and tighten it to 31Nm.
11. Remove the oil cap on the cam cover.
12. Install the 5 quarts of oil.
13. After the oil is installed, replace the cam cover cap. Make sure the filter is on, the drain plug is replaced, and the cam cover cap are on, then start the car. Make sure the low oil pressure light is out. Check for any leaks under the car or from the filter area.
14. Lower the car and enjoy!
Thanks again to DiD for the photography!
If you have any questions, let me know.
It should be noted that the early Coopers have a plastic retaining post and spring. The spring goes into the housing, then the filter goes on. All filters are the same now.
Hope that helps!
Randy
720-841-1002
randy@webbmotorsports.com
Tools required:
13mm socket or wrench
36mm socket or wrench
Jack and stands
Oil drain pan
4.7 (5 is OK) quarts of 5W30 full synthetic (I prefer Redline - Amsoil and Motul are great too)
New filter replacement from MINI
Here's the filter kit from MINI and my favorite oil.
Time required:
About 30-45 minutes
1. Start by making sure the car is warm - this will help to make sure you get as much of the old oil out as possible.
2. Jack up the car, and use jack stands (for you 2minis). Here is the best jack point we've been able to find. It will lift the entire side, so you can put the jack stands under the factory jack points. This picture is looking forward on the driver side.
3. Drain the oil from the case before you remove the filter. This is a 13mm, and be careful, as the oil is warm.
Technique is to remove the plug until it is barely threaded, then, using two fingers above where the draining oil path will be, pull the plug up and away.
When you do it right, you won't get any oil on you or the floor :D .
4. Let the oil drain, and move to the top of the car. The filter is a canister type on the backside of the block to the passenger side of the center. It is removed using either a 36mm wrench (some of the larger adjustables will get this big as well) or a 36mm socket and ratchet.
This is looking at the filter from the passenger side.
Here's the 36mm socket with a ratchet. You can find these just about anywhere - this one is just from Home Depot - but they are also at Sears and most auto parts stores.
Let's have a closer look at the socket on the filter.
When you pull the filter off, it's tough to keep oil from getting everywhere, but moving the drain pan about six inches more toward the passenger side from where it was for the case drain plug will minimize the mess.
Note the orientation of the filter in the housing.
Here is the top of the filter coming out of the housing.
This is the part of the filter that goes into the housing.
You will notice there is an O-ring around the housing. This is included in the new filter kit, and should be changed.
5. Here is the removal of the O-ring. You don't need this tool - anything, even a pen, will work. Be careful not to score the O-ring seat.
6. Once you have the O-ring off of the car, clean out the housing. Some brake clean works in lieu of a parts washer.
7. It's a good idea to dip the new O-ring in some clean oil, or spray it down with WD-40. This will keep it from wanting to roll off the housing while you are screwing it on to the block again. It installs by just slipping it over the housing into it's groove.
8. Here is the new filter in the housing. After installing it in the housing, oil the rubber seal with new oil. This will make you happy the next time you take the filter off.
9. Reinstall the filter on the block. You will need to push the filter onto the guide - it sorta feels like it pops on. Screw the housing back on, and torque it to 25Nm, which isn't that much more than hand tight.
10. Reinstall the drain plug under the car, and tighten it to 31Nm.
11. Remove the oil cap on the cam cover.
12. Install the 5 quarts of oil.
13. After the oil is installed, replace the cam cover cap. Make sure the filter is on, the drain plug is replaced, and the cam cover cap are on, then start the car. Make sure the low oil pressure light is out. Check for any leaks under the car or from the filter area.
14. Lower the car and enjoy!
Thanks again to DiD for the photography!
If you have any questions, let me know.
It should be noted that the early Coopers have a plastic retaining post and spring. The spring goes into the housing, then the filter goes on. All filters are the same now.
Hope that helps!
Randy
720-841-1002
randy@webbmotorsports.com
so what your saying about the plug washer, you don't have to use a new one at every oil change?
1st Gear
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
used this guide today and it was very easy! Thank you!
1) Definitely tried a Top Gear-style "How hard can it be?" when trying to use my socket wrench and adapter with the 36mm socket. No, there isn't any room for that nonsense. You need a 1/2in socket wrench.
2) If this is your first time with your MINI, bring a breaker bar for the oil plug. Son of Kong, indeed.
3) I let the filter drain for 5 min, absolutely no mess from above.
4) Hardest part is threading the damn filter cap back onto the block. Took 30 min; we'll see how the next time goes.
1) Definitely tried a Top Gear-style "How hard can it be?" when trying to use my socket wrench and adapter with the 36mm socket. No, there isn't any room for that nonsense. You need a 1/2in socket wrench.
2) If this is your first time with your MINI, bring a breaker bar for the oil plug. Son of Kong, indeed.
3) I let the filter drain for 5 min, absolutely no mess from above.
4) Hardest part is threading the damn filter cap back onto the block. Took 30 min; we'll see how the next time goes.