How To Maintenance :: Changing REAR Brake Pads for Beginners!
#52
The pins on the Harbor Freight tool aren't perfect, but they are good enough. I've found that the key is getting the pins into the holes on the caliper and then backing out the adjustment nut so that the tool is very firmly held in place... Then you turn the handle to compress the piston by 1/4 turn, back the nut out again, compress the piston 1/4 turn, back the nut out again..... repeat until fully compressed. Take your time and don't get greedy, trying to compress the piston with 1/2 turn or the pins will come out of the holes and you will spend a lot of time resetting everything. It's a bit fussy, but the price of the tool makes it worth it (when compared to the $300 BMW version).
#53
#54
Squeaking
Thanks for all the detail and the pics. Over last weekend I replaced the rear pads and rotors. The rotors came from BMW and I purchased mintex pads from Moss Motors. The car has been driven 275 miles and there is a slight squeak as it comes to a stop. Should the inside pad be clipped to the caliper some how? What could the problem be?
#55
Check post #33
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...6&postcount=33
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...6&postcount=33
Thanks for all the detail and the pics. Over last weekend I replaced the rear pads and rotors. The rotors came from BMW and I purchased mintex pads from Moss Motors. The car has been driven 275 miles and there is a slight squeak as it comes to a stop. Should the inside pad be clipped to the caliper some how? What could the problem be?
#56
#57
Yeah, I'm still at my shop working..lol. Restoring some computer files.
Yep, the clips just slide on to the piston. I killed a pad before realizing this had to be done--because it just dragged against the rotor--never retracting.
Richard
Yep, the clips just slide on to the piston. I killed a pad before realizing this had to be done--because it just dragged against the rotor--never retracting.
Richard
#58
#59
The answer is so stunningly simple that you will wonder why you didn't figure it out sooner. Well that's how I felt, lol. Just slide the pad down so the wires fit into the grooves. Try it, it works. =)
Richard
Richard
#60
Yep... There has to be a better picture somewhere on how to attach the inside rear pad to the piston. Think of it as 'inserting the pad into it's final location in the caliper' instead of 'inserting the pad into the caliper and then pressing it against the piston'.
Once you do it the first time, it's obvious how it works... the problem is getting git right the first time! :D
Once you do it the first time, it's obvious how it works... the problem is getting git right the first time! :D
#61
OG, That's actually a pretty good pic:
In this pic, imagine holding the pad above the piston and sliding the pad straight down so that the wire clips on the back of the pad engage the groove cast into the piston.
It's easier to see in this pic because the piston is fully extended (you must have really worn those old pads out!). Once you compress the piston, the groove tends to get shrouded by the rubber dust boot. You can still squeeze the dust boot to see and engage the grooves, but just be careful of the boot... it can be damaged fairly easily (learned by experience on my old car).
In this pic, imagine holding the pad above the piston and sliding the pad straight down so that the wire clips on the back of the pad engage the groove cast into the piston.
It's easier to see in this pic because the piston is fully extended (you must have really worn those old pads out!). Once you compress the piston, the groove tends to get shrouded by the rubber dust boot. You can still squeeze the dust boot to see and engage the grooves, but just be careful of the boot... it can be damaged fairly easily (learned by experience on my old car).
Last edited by agranger; 12-14-2007 at 07:34 AM.
#62
What not to do when changing pads and rotor...rear.
Well maybe a side note for those that didn't get the Harbor Freight tool right away.
I tried needle nose pliers rotating and pushing til I got pinch blisters on my hand.
Here is what not to do:
DO NOT ROTATE PISTON TO THE LEFT. It comes out VERY quickly, I ended up running to HF and getting the tool. I also tried the little cube but that didn't have the right locating pin width.
I forced the piston in while using just the HF tool to turn it as I blocked it against my hand and part of the underside of the car. I then got the piston in enough to get the push plate from the tool in the caliper.
Right side of brakes (leisurely) 5 hours. The left side 12 mins....
I tried needle nose pliers rotating and pushing til I got pinch blisters on my hand.
Here is what not to do:
DO NOT ROTATE PISTON TO THE LEFT. It comes out VERY quickly, I ended up running to HF and getting the tool. I also tried the little cube but that didn't have the right locating pin width.
I forced the piston in while using just the HF tool to turn it as I blocked it against my hand and part of the underside of the car. I then got the piston in enough to get the push plate from the tool in the caliper.
Right side of brakes (leisurely) 5 hours. The left side 12 mins....
#63
The detailed write-up was great, even for a first timer like myself. That little cube for the pistons didnt fit so i went to my local kragen to RENT the piston compressor tool. It did however cost me $120 to rent it, but when i returned it, my money was refunded. Saved me a bunch instead of buying my own kit. Hope this helps
#64
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I have just compleated my brake job and i didn't use the brake tool i got the little square thing from autozone for $9 and it worked perfect just turned it and it went in i dont know about the whole pushing thing i just cranked it back down (pushed a bit but more just to keep the tool on the piston) mine is a 2005 so i dont know if they changed something but you dont need the 150 mini tool or the 30 harbor freight tool just the $9 autozone tool
#65
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The detailed write-up was great, even for a first timer like myself. That little cube for the pistons didnt fit so i went to my local kragen to RENT the piston compressor tool. It did however cost me $120 to rent it, but when i returned it, my money was refunded. Saved me a bunch instead of buying my own kit. Hope this helps
#66
Thanks for the Writeup
I have an MCS04 and will be ready for a brake job in a year or so. I was impressed with the thoroughness of your thread. In anticipation I bought the brake compression tool. As an avid DIYer, I inquired abt the shop manual and was given a prohibitive price (around $3K). Is the Bently manual fairly comprehensive?. Also, would not a plain 7 mm allen wrench work (with a sml pipe for leverage?). Anyway, thanks for the great article. geo
#67
Thanks and welcome to NAM (first post!).
The Bentley manual is definitely worth the money. Any of the tools I showed in the writeup were just what I had on hand and felt worked for my situation. You should by all means use whatever you have to improve upon the process. I did this writeup quite a few years ago and it was mostly to help me remember what I did for future brake jobs!
Richard
The Bentley manual is definitely worth the money. Any of the tools I showed in the writeup were just what I had on hand and felt worked for my situation. You should by all means use whatever you have to improve upon the process. I did this writeup quite a few years ago and it was mostly to help me remember what I did for future brake jobs!
Richard
I have an MCS04 and will be ready for a brake job in a year or so. I was impressed with the thoroughness of your thread. In anticipation I bought the brake compression tool. As an avid DIYer, I inquired abt the shop manual and was given a prohibitive price (around $3K). Is the Bently manual fairly comprehensive?. Also, would not a plain 7 mm allen wrench work (with a sml pipe for leverage?). Anyway, thanks for the great article. geo
#68
as an FYI for people that messed up like i did. I didnt put the clip on the psiton at first and after a track day when i went to slide the clips onto the piston the wires broke off from being smashed. Luckily i had my original pads and it was easy enough to remove all three clips and install them on my hawk HPS pad
#69
#71
#72
I just did my Clubman rears and my caliper pistons didnt have those holes. It had a pattern with no holes....a solid center with 4 or 5 'rays' leading to the outer edge. Fortunately I didnt need to push the pistons back in anyways but there must be a special tool for the new setup.....hopefully
#74
#75