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How To Maintenance :: Changing REAR Brake Pads for Beginners!

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How To Maintenance :: Changing REAR Brake Pads for Beginners!

  #51  
Old 07-31-2007, 07:55 AM
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Excellent write-up. One of the easiest brake jobs I've ever done.

 
  #52  
Old 07-31-2007, 09:25 AM
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The pins on the Harbor Freight tool aren't perfect, but they are good enough. I've found that the key is getting the pins into the holes on the caliper and then backing out the adjustment nut so that the tool is very firmly held in place... Then you turn the handle to compress the piston by 1/4 turn, back the nut out again, compress the piston 1/4 turn, back the nut out again..... repeat until fully compressed. Take your time and don't get greedy, trying to compress the piston with 1/2 turn or the pins will come out of the holes and you will spend a lot of time resetting everything. It's a bit fussy, but the price of the tool makes it worth it (when compared to the $300 BMW version).
 
  #53  
Old 07-31-2007, 07:32 PM
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I don't know, the Harbor Freight tool worked perfectly on mine. The pins never slipped out of the piston holes and the only thing that slowed me down was the seal. Everything else went like butter ... to my surprise
 
  #54  
Old 12-11-2007, 11:26 PM
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Squeaking

Thanks for all the detail and the pics. Over last weekend I replaced the rear pads and rotors. The rotors came from BMW and I purchased mintex pads from Moss Motors. The car has been driven 275 miles and there is a slight squeak as it comes to a stop. Should the inside pad be clipped to the caliper some how? What could the problem be?
 
  #55  
Old 12-11-2007, 11:28 PM
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Check post #33
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...6&postcount=33


Originally Posted by Morsel 2 View Post
Thanks for all the detail and the pics. Over last weekend I replaced the rear pads and rotors. The rotors came from BMW and I purchased mintex pads from Moss Motors. The car has been driven 275 miles and there is a slight squeak as it comes to a stop. Should the inside pad be clipped to the caliper some how? What could the problem be?
 
  #56  
Old 12-11-2007, 11:38 PM
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Squeaking continued

Now that was a quick response, from the picture it looks like you slide all three clips around the caliper. Ill redo them in the morning before work, thanks.
 
  #57  
Old 12-11-2007, 11:49 PM
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Yeah, I'm still at my shop working..lol. Restoring some computer files.

Yep, the clips just slide on to the piston. I killed a pad before realizing this had to be done--because it just dragged against the rotor--never retracting.

Richard

Originally Posted by Morsel 2 View Post
Now that was a quick response, from the picture it looks like you slide all three clips around the caliper. Ill redo them in the morning before work, thanks.
 
  #58  
Old 12-14-2007, 12:36 AM
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Clips

Do all three clips fit around the rear caliper? The calipers are retracted to the point where i had to pull back the rubber to see the grove. The top clip was easy to attach but the others were a struggle. Any advice on attaching the ones on the sides?
 
  #59  
Old 12-14-2007, 01:15 AM
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The answer is so stunningly simple that you will wonder why you didn't figure it out sooner. Well that's how I felt, lol. Just slide the pad down so the wires fit into the grooves. Try it, it works. =)

Richard

Originally Posted by Morsel 2 View Post
Do all three clips fit around the rear caliper? The calipers are retracted to the point where i had to pull back the rubber to see the grove. The top clip was easy to attach but the others were a struggle. Any advice on attaching the ones on the sides?
 
  #60  
Old 12-14-2007, 07:29 AM
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Yep... There has to be a better picture somewhere on how to attach the inside rear pad to the piston. Think of it as 'inserting the pad into it's final location in the caliper' instead of 'inserting the pad into the caliper and then pressing it against the piston'.

Once you do it the first time, it's obvious how it works... the problem is getting git right the first time! :D
 
  #61  
Old 12-14-2007, 07:31 AM
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OG, That's actually a pretty good pic:



In this pic, imagine holding the pad above the piston and sliding the pad straight down so that the wire clips on the back of the pad engage the groove cast into the piston.

It's easier to see in this pic because the piston is fully extended (you must have really worn those old pads out!). Once you compress the piston, the groove tends to get shrouded by the rubber dust boot. You can still squeeze the dust boot to see and engage the grooves, but just be careful of the boot... it can be damaged fairly easily (learned by experience on my old car).
 

Last edited by agranger; 12-14-2007 at 07:34 AM.
  #62  
Old 03-14-2008, 08:29 PM
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What not to do when changing pads and rotor...rear.

Well maybe a side note for those that didn't get the Harbor Freight tool right away.

I tried needle nose pliers rotating and pushing til I got pinch blisters on my hand.

Here is what not to do:

DO NOT ROTATE PISTON TO THE LEFT. It comes out VERY quickly, I ended up running to HF and getting the tool. I also tried the little cube but that didn't have the right locating pin width.

I forced the piston in while using just the HF tool to turn it as I blocked it against my hand and part of the underside of the car. I then got the piston in enough to get the push plate from the tool in the caliper.

Right side of brakes (leisurely) 5 hours. The left side 12 mins....
 
  #63  
Old 03-20-2008, 10:53 AM
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The detailed write-up was great, even for a first timer like myself. That little cube for the pistons didnt fit so i went to my local kragen to RENT the piston compressor tool. It did however cost me $120 to rent it, but when i returned it, my money was refunded. Saved me a bunch instead of buying my own kit. Hope this helps
 
  #64  
Old 03-22-2008, 04:24 PM
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I have just compleated my brake job and i didn't use the brake tool i got the little square thing from autozone for $9 and it worked perfect just turned it and it went in i dont know about the whole pushing thing i just cranked it back down (pushed a bit but more just to keep the tool on the piston) mine is a 2005 so i dont know if they changed something but you dont need the 150 mini tool or the 30 harbor freight tool just the $9 autozone tool
 
  #65  
Old 03-22-2008, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by oneM1KE View Post
The detailed write-up was great, even for a first timer like myself. That little cube for the pistons didnt fit so i went to my local kragen to RENT the piston compressor tool. It did however cost me $120 to rent it, but when i returned it, my money was refunded. Saved me a bunch instead of buying my own kit. Hope this helps
it does fit just not the way you think it should the side with the 4 weird shaped pegs work you just use 2 of them it dosnt sit straight in there kinda lopsided but it worked great and for 9 bux! (would cost about that in gas to get and return the tool)
 
  #66  
Old 05-08-2008, 03:43 PM
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Thanks for the Writeup

I have an MCS04 and will be ready for a brake job in a year or so. I was impressed with the thoroughness of your thread. In anticipation I bought the brake compression tool. As an avid DIYer, I inquired abt the shop manual and was given a prohibitive price (around $3K). Is the Bently manual fairly comprehensive?. Also, would not a plain 7 mm allen wrench work (with a sml pipe for leverage?). Anyway, thanks for the great article. geo
 
  #67  
Old 05-08-2008, 04:37 PM
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Thanks and welcome to NAM (first post!).

The Bentley manual is definitely worth the money. Any of the tools I showed in the writeup were just what I had on hand and felt worked for my situation. You should by all means use whatever you have to improve upon the process. I did this writeup quite a few years ago and it was mostly to help me remember what I did for future brake jobs!

Richard



Originally Posted by gorby View Post
I have an MCS04 and will be ready for a brake job in a year or so. I was impressed with the thoroughness of your thread. In anticipation I bought the brake compression tool. As an avid DIYer, I inquired abt the shop manual and was given a prohibitive price (around $3K). Is the Bently manual fairly comprehensive?. Also, would not a plain 7 mm allen wrench work (with a sml pipe for leverage?). Anyway, thanks for the great article. geo
 
  #68  
Old 05-08-2008, 04:43 PM
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as an FYI for people that messed up like i did. I didnt put the clip on the psiton at first and after a track day when i went to slide the clips onto the piston the wires broke off from being smashed. Luckily i had my original pads and it was easy enough to remove all three clips and install them on my hawk HPS pad
 
  #69  
Old 05-21-2008, 12:32 PM
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The gift that keeps on giving... this article has been up for years but it still gets used... it's time for me to do my first MINI brake job... two '03s waiting in the driveway... but first, off to my local Harbor Freight store!

Very grateful to find such a helpful article and website.
 
  #70  
Old 05-21-2008, 01:41 PM
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Harbor Freight in Memphis has these kits for $19.99 !!!!
 
  #71  
Old 05-21-2008, 04:53 PM
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HF sales

Originally Posted by Goodwood View Post
Harbor Freight in Memphis has these kits for $19.99 !!!!
Yep - if it isn't "on sale" this week....it will be next week....

don't forget...HF has the DYNAPLUG now too, and the SLIME kits with pump....
 
  #72  
Old 05-22-2008, 08:57 AM
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I just did my Clubman rears and my caliper pistons didnt have those holes. It had a pattern with no holes....a solid center with 4 or 5 'rays' leading to the outer edge. Fortunately I didnt need to push the pistons back in anyways but there must be a special tool for the new setup.....hopefully
 
  #73  
Old 05-22-2008, 10:20 AM
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How can a clubman need brakes already?
 
  #74  
Old 05-22-2008, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Goodwood View Post
How can a clubman need brakes already?
I was tired of the brake dust battle so I put Carbotech pads on it and it has worked out GREAT! Better stopping and no dust!
 
  #75  
Old 05-22-2008, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Goodwood View Post
How can a clubman need brakes already?
He/she didn't have to compress the pistons, so I'd bet that it was to replace the stock pads with some higher-performance or less-dusting aftermarket pads... swapping new pads for new pads.
 

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