Ah, it looks like the California law is great. Federal emissions law covers very little under the 8 year warranty. I think I will be screwed unless they want to honor the high pressure fuel pump for my 2010 Mini

 

So, I've replaced HPFP.. car is again alive

Thanks for the DIY, I had absolutely no issues. I haven't replaced high pressure line, nor feed line.
Diagnostics show actual pressure as requested.

 

Congrats on the fix.

 

Hey Imad ... you said

.."with my newly ordered HPFP (well, 690 USD)."

Where did you find the pump for $690? Best I have seen is 13% off MSRP of $1128.

Thanks -
Chris
2011 CM S all4

 

MINI extended my warranty on the HPFP to 10yr/120000 miles, and I've not seen any issues as yet with 116,722 on the clock. I see that this little bugger is a full grand to replace; I would rather MINI take one for the team on this one and get them to replace it just in case it "fails" right when I hit 120,001 miles.

 

A Big thank you to the OP for this write up!

I've just successfully replaced the HPFP on my late 2010 N18 engined Cooper S and this guide gave me the confidence to do it. I was quoted £970 by my local mini dealer and most of that was the part. I was lucky to find a pump on ebay for £310 - whether it was really new as the seller said, I'm not sure, but it certainly works. I had to buy some tools: a torque wrench and a set of those crow's foot wrench adapters mentioned in the write up. I also decided to replace both the high pressure fuel line and the fuel feed line (recommended by Mini and Pelican Parts). My car already has 108k miles on it and I was nervous I might have damaged the lines removing and re-attaching them. I didn't want the risk of high pressure petrol leaks and possibly an engine fire later.

- replacing the High pressure hose (metal): On the N18, the metal high pressure hose is accessible at both ends without removing the inlet manifold. Judging from the pics on the Pelican Parts article (see link at end), I don't think that this is the case on the N14 engine, where the High pressure metal hose connects to the fuel rail underneath the inlet manifold.

- replacing the Feed hose (braided flexible): the far end of the braided fuel feed hose, whilst a bit of a reach from above, is doable. grip the black plastic collar and pull the hose directly off the pipe. This reveals a collar on the pipe just like the one on the inlet of the HP fuel pump. Correction to the OP's comment on removing the feed pipe from the HP fuel pump: I did need to press both tabs - it would not budge by pressing the accessible side only. So I needed to remove the high pressure hose first, to get room to press both tabs (I used two smallish hex keys, of simillar size to the apetures for the hose tabs). Once I did that it did come off quite easily. Maybe this differs on the N14 hose, but I suspect that one of the tabs on the OPs hose was stuck. When you fit the new hose, both ends push fit (no need to squeeze tabs) and will make a click when you push them home. I was able to push the far end of the hose positively into place with one hand, by lying on top of the (cold engine) and reaching down. the joint that the feed hose connects to is held in place by a bracket, so it doesn't move while you push the feed hose on.

- regarding the special tool: I asked about the special tool at the dealer's parts dept. It was £55 (ouch), so asked them to check with the technicians whether it was needed for installing the line as well as removing it. They said no and that they found the tool difficult to use / not very effective. In fact, they'd just thrown theirs in the bin.

Thanks again for the effort. All told, I've saved £400 on the cheapest independent quote and £500 on the dealer quote - Marvellous! My car's performance is massively improved. It had been showing Check Engine Light with heavy misfire at startup, but had cleared once warm with a restart. Never the less, it was significantly down on power and it's fantastic to feel that push in the back of my seat again - even without the sport mode on. These cars are Great to drive.

Thanks Sandwalk3r.

Clive

PS - more info on this procedure here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm

 

Please tell me where is some connect to check the fuel pressure. My mechanic says that he must remove the rear seats and that the only possibility is the pump in fuel tank. Whether it is possible to check somewhere on the engine ?
My car is Countryman S ALL4

 

There are two fuel pumps. The regular fuel pump is in the gas tank and feeds fuel to the high pressure fuel pump, which is attached the the fuel rail in the engine.

 

My car has all the symptoms and Codes ( P0087 , P2C01 ) associated with a low pressure fuel. HPFP is new, and the symptoms are still the same : /

 

Did you check the rear low pressure pump ?

 

In Europe (I live in Poland ) it is already evening . Tomorrow, my mechanic will testing this rear pomp. I hope it will be it....

 

The rear low pressure pump checked , gives 5,5bar . I do not know what to do next :/

 

Replaced mine today, 2011 N18 engine CooperS.

Absolutely no need to remove intake manifold.
Just unbolt the 3 pcs of 8mm fasterners and remove both the fuel lines.
Wiggle or pry abit and it pops out easy.

High pressure pipe line is 14mm nut.

Reset with diagnostic reader, and live data show fuel pressure to be 50bar.
Car drives well again, able to pull cleanly to redline.

 

Thanks for posting this info! My 08 has been having issues on cold stars for a while now. This morning it was stuttering, exhaust popping, than would idle normally.

I took it to a shop that specializes in Mini's and paid $68 for a diagnostic confirming the HPFP issue. The repair would cost $1700 but would only cost about $600 if I DIY.

I called the dealership in my area and fortunately the warranty on the pump HAS been extended and will be covered at no charge. Unfortunately, I'll have to pay $185 for another diagnostic and they'll have to confirm whether it is the problem or not.

 

My dealer was $99 diagnostic which was waved when the covered pump was at fault. If they won't do that go to a different dealership.

 

Oh man. Good to know. Thanks!

 

For anyone reading this thread with a 2010, the warranty only covers 2007-2009 even though the 2010 uses the same pump.

 

Yes, they use the same pump up to even the 2012 N14 JCW that I have, but its not covered all the way up.

 

I believe that it is considered part of the emissions system, therefore in some states it might be covered under the longer warranty. Always double check, and then ask again.

 

I unfortunately fall into this category and my HPSP is showing signs of going. If the 2010 uses the same pump as the earlier versions, any logical reason why MINI would exclude this as part of the recall? Just trying to understand to build a case in my favour. Thanks!

 

First post on such a great thread

Great write up, very encouraging for those who dont really turn a wrench!!

So, on to my question and experience:

@68k my 07' MCS started with this issue..Off course after all the research and finding about the warranty extension i ended up taking it to the stealer, where im told is, the brakes, the carbon build up on the valves, leaky water pump, and was even asked if i used cheap gas...I totally understand dealers, i mean they are running a business after all, is up to us if we like getting raped, But i mean, on a an issue that is covered under warranty which shows no codes for the most part!?? Really??

Anyhow, So after some back and fourth with this lady who claims is the thermostat housing, i just picked the car up and paid the hour diagnostic ($180)..i went ahead and installed a new thermostat, same problem. Call mini USA and they claim it should get done for free..finally they get a hold of the dealer and they both agree they "ran multiple tests" and did "50 POINT INSPECTION" ....I get a call, sir!! basically you are on your own.

Long story short..i changed the pump myself and car starts right up

DEALER: MINI OF FREEPORT, NY..BEWARE GUYS

Now, here is the thing, my damn high pressure line seems to leak, what am i doing wrong? seemed pretty straight forward.

Thanks all

 

For any of you that is looking for one I do have an OEM bnew in box comes with the line and torx screws
im located in Canada and willing to split shipping costs.Offer starts at $700 usd
email me back for faster response
garnett63@outlook.com

 

I have the problems (hard starting, poor running) but the car is not throwing any codes. Any suggestions?

Also, Could this be indicative of a bad fuel rail pressure sensor?

 

It may not throw a code immediately. Mine didn't.

 

Just changed mine using this guide. 2012 S, N18, 37k miles, first replacement. A little over $1k shipped. Installed in under an hour, let it cool for a little over an hour first. Only removed air box and tube feeding turbo. 8mm bolts pump->head, 14mm crow for fuel line. Only pushed one side to release fuel supply line. Electric connector was the hardest thing to get off, had to jam small screwdrivers into the back of the clip to release, clicked back on fine.

Before pump I changed plugs (gapped to .022), coils (bremi) and diverter valve (new version, diaphragm wasnt broken on old one). So hopefully im good for another 37k miles at least, what a POS pump haha. Symptoms were sputter/backfire on cold start and missing when on med-high boost, yellow half engine on tach but not all the time. No codes stored.