I think I found my new quote under my Sig .

 

I'm just realizing that I'm hijacking a helpful HowTo with my little story about not using the HowTo at all. I apologize. I should have created a new thread. Total newbie/amateur move, and I've been on the Internet since '93. I wish there was a way to split a thread off and give it a new title... I'll finish this here, for continuity, but I feel bad about it. Does that help?

Mini USA called me back and told me that they'd cover a significant portion of the cost of the fix. When I talked to the dealer, they said Mini USA offered 75% coverage of the replacement. Turned out to be about $150, if I remember correctly. I don't have the bill in front of me, but the final ended up being $400 with the vanos solenoid replacement, down from $800 for the two prior to Mini USA's involvement.

Runs great now that both of those things are fixed.

I'd encourage everyone to inquire of Mini USA if their replacement would be covered. Maybe because mine was in the shop and already diagnosed it was easier for them to offer to cover it, but seems like Mini is willing to privately acknowledge that there's an issue with the HPFP even if you don't fall into the VIN range.

 

Great post. Helped tons, however, we changed the HPFP and it now starts up without stuttering, but, about 100 miles into a trip the CEL occurred with a Reduced power message. Got up this morning cranked car up, again no stuttering, but loss of power. I am trying to figure out if we didn't do something right, or if it is a totally different issue. Would the fuel line not torqued correctly cause this? Could the HPFP being bad caused the MAP to go bad? Any help would be appreciated. At a loss at this point. Fix one problem, and another appears. Also, has a slight misfire feeling or trying to backfire sound now. Just changed the HPFP yesterday.

 

Maybe it wasn't the HPFP, it could be the pump in the tank that's bad, only advice I can give is take it in to get diagnosed.

 

This a very good write up and guide, I intend on changing mine tomorrow(sat) and this will be a valuable tool.

Here in the UK Mini won’t even acknowledge there is even a problem with thispart let alone extend the warranty by X miles. And to make matters worse thepart is only available via the main dealer at £255! Anyway I have it now and I willbegin my change early tomorrow.

I have a few questions that haven’t yet been answered.


1, do any of the fuel lines have pressure in them when removing? I will bedoing this from cold and after the car has been standing over night.

2, is there no way of priming this pump after change? Or is samply startingthe car a few times the best way?

3, MINI UK recommend changing all the fuel lines as well and Cleaning thefuel tank, has anyone bothered doing this? From this I guess this part failsdue to sediment in the fuel.

4, have all changes been successful? i.e no further failure weeks down the line?

Thank you!

 

100000000x10 Thanks to the OP for putting this HOW-TO up.

 

1, do any of the fuel lines have pressure in them when removing? I will bedoing this from cold and after the car has been standing over night.

There is no pressure, I didn't even use a catch can so little gas leaked out

2, is there no way of priming this pump after change? Or is samply startingthe car a few times the best way?

No prime required, the lift pump in the tank does the priming

3, MINI UK recommend changing all the fuel lines as well and Cleaning thefuel tank, has anyone bothered doing this? From this I guess this part failsdue to sediment in the fuel.

Just swapped the pump, the filter should take car of any debris in the tank.

4, have all changes been successful? i.e no further failure weeks down the line?

Have only been up and running a few days, but I can tell mine was weak for
a while. Car runs much better.

Mine is a 2011 which takes a different pump than than the 2010. The mounting flange is slightly different. Here is the link to the pump for a 2011.

www.ecstuning.com/ES2136420/

The mounting flange is different. This job took me about 1/2 hour start to finish including cleaning out the mouse nest in my airbox.

 

Great write up!! This will be even easier for cars that have aftermarket intakes. Mine is holding up well at 15k but I'm sure it will go out, I had 4 or 5 HPFP on my BMW 335i.

mQuebed Manic Tuning Dealer

 

OMG 4-5 HPFP failures, unbelievable. I thought this was just with Mini Coopers.

 

Hi everybody, I apologize that I wasn't back on to participate more in the thread. Time to change rear brakes so I'm trolling around for brake threads.

I saw that this writeup made the NAM email a few months back, so I'm glad it has been helpful.

The MINI hasn't given me any problems since regarding the HPFP. Back to driving her like I stole her. Only now not so much until I get these brake pads replaced!

As bad as I am at all this, if I was able to do this about anybody else out there should. Just be careful with the fuel line!

 

Im having a possible HPFP issue and ill go for changing it. I just want to ask, every time that the issue occurs (problem in idling, stalling) when starting the car, there is a smell of petrol from the rear, did you all that changed the faulty HPFP have this smell?

 

My in tank fuel pump(genuine BMW part) break down the second time less then 6 months mileage less then 30k. Anyone have this issue too?

 

Would this be the same procedure for a 2011 mini cooper s? r58?

 

I'm not entirely certain what would have changed about the fuel system with the r58.

My uneducated guess is that, if you get the right part for your model year, most everything is going to be very similar.

If everything under your hood looks close to what are in the photos, it may work no problem.

I just don't know what if any major changes there would be.

 

The R58 2012 MINI Coupe' S takes a 13517592429 up to 3/2012, which is a slightly different design , but close, then they changed to the 13517630644 3/2012+ which is a different design all together.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2012-Cooper_Coupe-R58-Cooper_S-Coupe-N18B16A/Engine/Fuel/


13517592429




Mfg Part# 1351763064

 

Me and a buddy just did this on my 2010 mcs I've had it a week and a Half started it today and it had a choppy idle and then went into limp/safety mode drove it to the dealer I bought it at medwestern auto group in Dublin Ohio wanted $113 bucks to diagnose so I did that which kinda made me mad I haven't even had it two weeks?!? Waited an hour came back hpfp and wanted a grand to fix it quoted time an hour and a half my friend works at a dealer across town and called in the parts total of $334 dollars after tax for the pump and line I picked them up while I was there paid the 113 and came home put it on in an hour thanks for this post saved me about 600 bucks!

 

This must not be your first failed HPFP because Mini extended the HPFP to 120,000 miles or 10 years, but you only get the first HPFP free.

 

Glad this has been helpful. Saving $ is no joke. This site has helped me a ton, and I'm just happy this thread has helped people save money.

 

Thanks for this write up. It saved me a ton of money by doing it myself. The worst part is actually figuring out that darn fuel line connection. Even with your directions it didn't seem to want to come loose. It wasn't until I pushed it in and pressed the nub that it came apart. Thanks again for the great write up.

 

I have two minis, a 2012 cooper S convertible, and a 2012 Cooper S Roadster. Both have now exhibited the HPFP failure, and both were not viewed as part of the initial recall.


Would the 2012s be included in any recall? Is anyone else out there having these issues with their post 2010 Cooper S motors?

 

Some warranty talk about the N18 HPFP in this NAM thread here. Indicating that dealerships noted to him that the N18 MINI's "do not have HPFP issues." Appears the HPFP warranty was for 2007-2010 year MINI's. Unfortunately, people are still having HPFP issues 2011+.

 

I heard from a source that Mini changed manufacturers but not the design of the HPFP, then Mini contracted Bosch to manufacture the HPFP. My thinking is that since Mini took action to attempt to remidiy the HPFP issues that they thought the matter was closed regarding the 2011+ MCS's. Are the N18's seeing a large number of failure ratios when compared to the 2007-2010 MCS?

 

Interesting! Well, I have seen a lot of people with the N18 express that their HPFP has failed. As far as ratios go, I am unsure, but it would be very interesting to see. Maybe someone should start a thread here on NAM asking those with the N18 if they have dealt with HPFP failures.

 

Huge thanks to Sandwalk3r for creating this thread! This saved me hundreds of dollars. I successfully finished replacing my HPFP and thought I'd contribute some photos and tips to the thread.

1) The "quick-connect" fuel line is a PITA. I had to pitch both sides of the fitting while pushing in, not just 1 side like the DIY says. In the process I mangled the passenger side plastic nub. Connector went back on fine and I'm not leaking fuel so I guess its ok.



2) Because of my struggles to get the !@#$ fuel line disconnected, I ended up removing the plastic air intake pipe and the HPFP. This gave me a lot more room to work and rotate the pump while I fought the !@#$ connector.



3) The pump is held onto the block with 3 bolts. There is a 4th bolt with the same size T30 torx head. Don't remove this. I did and was confused on why the pump wouldn't come loose.



4) Having a variety of socket extension lengths is very helpful. I was able to use a 6" extension with the 12mm crow foot socket to complete the final torquing of the fuel line without taking my intake back off.

5) If you are OCD about keeping your engine clean, take this opportunity to do a thorough cleaning while everything is apart and you have access to the back of the valve cover and plastic intake pipe.

 

Nice write up and there is a tool for the line linked back in the thread.