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How To R56 Front Crank Seal Replacement Story (First Post)

How To R56 Front Crank Seal Replacement Story (First Post)

  #76  
Old 07-24-2017, 11:42 AM
imad
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Here is my thread: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ing-chain.html

Yeah, I've had some fun with it. So far, runs smoothly
 
  #77  
Old 07-24-2017, 11:42 AM
Lex2008
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Bentley manual says insert until "flush" but doesnt say flush with what. I assume the crankcase.




The thing I like about the FELPRO seal (ELRING also has one...maybe its the original supplier since manual shows the white plastic guide) is the come with a disposable plastic guide.




 
  #78  
Old 07-24-2017, 11:46 AM
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There is a small pin on the block, on the left side, which will prevent seal to go any deeper. Can't find any pic now, but once you remove the seal, you will see it.


So use this guide for a new seal you will buy. How many times did you already replace this seal? May be it's time for 40$... honestly, I didn't pay 40 for it, but I believe your issue is the depth, and I didn't have it due to new hub.

The last one I used (still installed) is Victor Renz.
 
  #79  
Old 07-24-2017, 11:48 AM
Lex2008
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Originally Posted by imad View Post
There is a small pin on the block, on the left side, which will prevent seal to go any deeper. Can't find any pic now, but once you remove the seal, you will see it.
Love you baby. You rock.
 
  #80  
Old 07-24-2017, 12:53 PM
Lex2008
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I just the pic of the crankshaft hub from your post.

I can see how the surface irregularities could cause leakage under the sea.

 
  #81  
Old 07-24-2017, 01:12 PM
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When I did mine the first time I did not pay enough attention. I installed it wet/oiled and did not clean the hub, it had also received the lightest scratch from when I use a tool to remove the old one. I had also taken it off the centre piece to have a look at it which was probably a big mistake because when I removed it when it failed I could clearly see the fine edge had flipped causing two creases. It failed within a week.


Second one, I took the finest emery cloth I could get (don't know the spec) and lightly cleaned the hub for a good 20 minutes and cleaned all surfaces with petrol rags. I also used the seal with the center piece shown above in white. I installed it dry as per the instructions, as it came out of the box, taking great care to keep it as square on as possible. I made a plastic rim, similar to the plastic pipework others have recommended. Tapped it home to where about 4mm was showing between the face and front of the seal. That was a few months ago, been perfect ever since.
Whatever you do Lex do not remove the centre large nut without all the tools mentioned or your timing will be out, on an interference engine that is fatal.
 
  #82  
Old 07-24-2017, 01:17 PM
Lex2008
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I wont be touching the large crankcase bolt...dont worry.

I wont have the space to polish the crankcase hub surface like you did when you had it out...therefore I dont know how successful I will.
 
  #83  
Old 07-24-2017, 01:22 PM
Scudder44
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Originally Posted by Lex2008 View Post
I wont be touching the large crankcase bolt...dont worry.

I wont have the space to polish the crankcase hub surface like you did when you had it out...therefore I dont know how successful I will.

I didn't have the hub out. There is enough space to get something thin, wooden or plastic with the emery wrapped round it :-) Don't be tempted to use metal like a screw driver. Just takes a bit of patience and time going round and round. Don't pull back a forth, you want any machining marks, no mater how light, to be around and not from back to front if that makes sense.
 
  #84  
Old 07-24-2017, 01:26 PM
Lex2008
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Ive got plenty of emery cloth of different grits.

thanks for the advice. Mine has 155+ miles on it. Im sure its plenty nasty.
 
  #85  
Old 07-24-2017, 01:38 PM
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Use the finest grade. Good luck this time :-)
 
  #86  
Old 07-24-2017, 08:31 PM
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You will have to inspect the hub for damages like mentioned - I also had a huge scratch on it. Turns to be quite soft metal btw.

To prevent such scratches, all you need to do is put screwdriver on TOP of the seal, and push it down (you may need some small hammer). As as said, there's a small pin at 9o'clock which stops at certain depth, so it will make the bottom of seal pop out once top of it goes in.

But well, you are doing it not first time, I am sure you already know the technique
 
  #87  
Old 07-24-2017, 08:46 PM
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Good luck with it
 

Last edited by imad; 07-24-2017 at 10:57 PM.
  #88  
Old 08-07-2017, 10:08 AM
Lex2008
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I got around to polishing the crankshaft hub using NEVR DULL and put in a new Fel Pro seal. This is the 3rd seal in 7000 miles. I swear these Mini's just force you to do the most humiliating junk. Polishing a freaking crankshaft hub so it wont leak. ONLY Mini.






I tried a dremel tool with felt polisher but the felt flew everywhere and got onto the timing chain so I gave up on that.




Even 180 grit emery cloth was WAY WAY too aggressive. DONT USE EMERY CLOTH, YOU WILL SCRATCH THE HELL OUT OF THE HUB AND THE SEAL WILL LEAK

Nevr Dull ended up being the best option.

There is just barely enough space to get your finger on to the end of that damn hub to polish it. It definitely looked a lot smoother after an hour of polishing.

BEFORE:





AFTER:






Scudder44, there is a lip behind the seal which would prevent you from pushing the seal any farther back. Its on the bottom, but Im not sure its there as a limiter/stop. Anyway I circled it in yellow:



I didnt get the seal in perfectly straight. Its slighly deeper up top. I tried pounding it straight but was afraid I would damage it. Im sure its gonna leak again. Fingers crossed.
 
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  #89  
Old 08-07-2017, 10:09 AM
Lex2008
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Also I put together instructions on how to most easily detension the belt.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4320735
 
  #90  
Old 08-07-2017, 01:25 PM
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guy, you have used a metal polish? what are you thinking? we are not talking about polishing the family silver. All you have done is cleaned it, you have not removed the scratches, I can see them plainly. I said use some fine grade emery paper and go around, your new seal will fail. Also to whoever posted that their seal is squint, that will also fail. Come on. This is not rocket science. I might sound rude here but what is the point of asking for assistance it you ignore the advice?
 
  #91  
Old 08-07-2017, 01:46 PM
Lex2008
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Originally Posted by Scudder44 View Post
guy, you have used a metal polish? what are you thinking? we are not talking about polishing the family silver. All you have done is cleaned it, you have not removed the scratches, I can see them plainly. I said use some fine grade emery paper and go around, your new seal will fail. Also to whoever posted that their seal is squint, that will also fail. Come on. This is not rocket science. I might sound rude here but what is the point of asking for assistance it you ignore the advice?
Dude you need a drink.

Yes EXACTLY I cleaned it. The scratches cannot be removed with the hub on the crank. 180 grit emery is too aggressive. It makes the scratches worse.

I dont know what squint is.
 
  #92  
Old 09-03-2017, 01:44 PM
greatfrog
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Originally Posted by Lex2008 View Post
Dude you need a drink.

Yes EXACTLY I cleaned it. The scratches cannot be removed with the hub on the crank. 180 grit emery is too aggressive. It makes the scratches worse.

I dont know what squint is.
Lex, any leak so far?
 
  #93  
Old 09-03-2017, 07:22 PM
Lex2008
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Originally Posted by greatfrog View Post
Lex, any leak so far?
Well, no, but that isn't saying much because the car had only been driven maybe 100 miles since I changed the seal. I fully expect it to start leaking again since I didn't get it in perfectly straight.

After a few hundred miles I'll take another look and get back to you.

The crank shaft end was definitely rusty and rough so I'm sure that polishing it should help.
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  #94  
Old 09-09-2017, 09:28 PM
greatfrog
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Originally Posted by Lex2008 View Post
Well, no, but that isn't saying much because the car had only been driven maybe 100 miles since I changed the seal. I fully expect it to start leaking again since I didn't get it in perfectly straight.

After a few hundred miles I'll take another look and get back to you.

The crank shaft end was definitely rusty and rough so I'm sure that polishing it should help.
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Thanks for the input. To replace the seal, I would like to use the pelicanparts seal installation tool to ensure the seal goes in straight. Did you buy the tool so that maybe I can rent from you? Or if I buy it would you be interested in renting it should you ever need to do it again?
 
  #95  
Old 09-10-2017, 06:47 AM
Lex2008
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Originally Posted by greatfrog View Post
Thanks for the input. To replace the seal, I would like to use the pelicanparts seal installation tool to ensure the seal goes in straight. Did you buy the tool so that maybe I can rent from you? Or if I buy it would you be interested in renting it should you ever need to do it again?
I did not. I just used some PVC pipe.
 
  #96  
Old 11-24-2017, 08:17 PM
greatfrog
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Sorry for hijacking this thread, but I finally bought the MINI crank seal installation tool (shown in the pictures) and would like to offer it for rental to fellow MINI owners here, helping others while recouping a fraction of the initial investment. It is quite a expensive tool for how simple it actually is, but it really takes the guess work out of the equation: It has a lip which when bottoms out will set the correct depth of the seal, and you also don't need to worry about the seal going in crooked. Shoot me an message if you are interested, it will be much much cheaper than buying it up-front.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by Lex2008 View Post
Bentley manual says insert until "flush" but doesnt say flush with what. I assume the crankcase.




The thing I like about the FELPRO seal (ELRING also has one...maybe its the original supplier since manual shows the white plastic guide) is the come with a disposable plastic guide.




 
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