Anyone ever used a "sneaky pete" seal remover? Looks like a wire corkscrew with a loop in the other end. Punch a hole in the seal screw, the tool in, and throw a long extension through the loop to pull out the old seal.

 

Ummm...no but that sounds like a very safe method!

 

Wholesaler discount on BS40721 seal at ROCKAUTO:

http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclef...l=en&html=true

 

I just replaced mine with the felpro, I tightened the 3 e-torx with the belt off and moved the pulley about .25 turn, should I be worried or am I in the clear?? Any input from any1 is gr8ly appreciated.

 

What do you mean you moved the pulley?... you didn't touch the center bolt did you? It doesn't matter if the crank pulley spins. The belts on the crank pulley are for peripherals not the timing on the valve train, if that's what you're getting at.

 

Great to hear. No sir, center bolt was not touched. Ok now on to the clutch issue.
Thank you Lex2008.

 

Right on brother.

My felpro seal is still holding.

 

Hi. Very nice writeup!

I have a small issue with my seal. I did timing chain job, including the seal and all. I've fixed the cams and the flywheel, but didn't use an external tool to hold the pulley hub while tensioning. Well, I was lucky to notice that the seal is leaking before I finished my car (I rotated the engine with crankshaft bolt for timing purposes). It leaks badly (and I've only put half a quart of oil).

Then I noticed that the pulley hub is not at equal distance from the block. I used a flat screwdriver to measure it, and obviously one side of the hub is getting closer to the block than the other one, which makes rotation within the seal eccentric. Damn this. Any idea what could go wrong? I don't see how the pulley can not be placed correctly, or how is can be not centered. Here is a pic with new seal in (nothing much visible here thou).

 

You have done one of two things IMHO. 1) the hub was not centred when you bolted it down - remove and try again but mind you will need a new bolt if that one has been fully torqued. 2) you have cross threaded the hub bolt - a serious problem, try again with a new bolt and pray you can get it in straight this time and have not wrecked the crankshaft threads. You will definitely need a new seal either way.
Remember, you will have to lock down cams, align pistons, etc, and put in the pre-tensioner again before you slacken it.

 

thanks for your answer. Well, I am sure threads are ok as I finger tightened the new bolt till the end, and nolt head has even touched the hub. I couldn't imagine there is a room for "centering" the hub. Its mad. Ok, I will try to unbolt it today and see what happens. The problem is I don't have another bolt around, and shipping will take like 1 week. Do you think I can run the engine for a while to confirm the it's not leaking?
is there any chance that I have bent the crankshaft end part? Also I am not sure what is the depth of pulley hub, its almost at same level with seal housing surface, like 2 mm higher.

thanks

 

Good news about the easy finger tightening. The face of the hub sits proud of the machined face of the seal housing. I very much doubt you could bend the crankshaft using correct torque. Won't know what your problem is until you have it out again. I certainly would not run that engine, there is no working seal and the wobble of the pulley is not going to do any good. You might be able to salvage the new seal you have in there but the bolt is really a one use job, it is a stretch bolt design. Is it remotely possible something is in there between the seat of the crank and the hub? Piece of broken chain guide? something off the area you left the hub on when it was out? Who knows.

 

Hello again. I did torque according to the specs. I don't mind the seal.. my problem is the bolt (an probably all three, including crankshaft ones). I don't believe I will be able to align the hub, tighten it and have timing precise. My question was about cranking the engine with old bolts (to make sure it's all good), and then replace them once arrive.. I am outside USA and it takes up to 10 days.

About something in between - I am not sure. Well, if the pulley just sits on the face of the crankshaft, then it will have space to "decenter" with at least bolt-to-hub measures. I don't remember if I put the chain in 0.6 nm/m pretension position or not before I tightened the crankshaft bolt, but that might be explaining the alignment issue. There is no other way, otherwise the crank face should be bent.

My plan is to remove the seal, remove the hub, then put it without seal and see how much it plays with bolt in. If there is at least 1 mm or even a half, thats the problem. I believe I had to tighten it without ANY tension on the chain, to the second step of 180 degree.

While hub is out, I will finger-tighten the bolt and try to decenter it, or center. But this is what's confusing me... is it only seal that should put the hub in the center of the crankshaft prior to tightening? It sound ridiculous.

Can anyone recap if there is a space for hub to play around or not? Nothing in the docs.

PS: my hub is not aligned with seal housing surface. Its at least 1.5 mm above.
Many thanks again.

 

My outer crank seal is leaking again, I think. This is unbelievable. Its only got like 5k miles on it. I have some dark looking oil (old) stains right at the belt tensioner. I dont know what the hell that's about. But the crank seems to be flinging oil around.

Why does this crank refuse to seal?

 

I believe you need to replace the pulley hub... Not expensive one, and it will fix your issue.

 

You mean the pulley and dampener?




I might buy a crankshaft and camshaft seal installer. Im tired of this leaking.

Pelican sells the original, one application tool for $160. http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Inf...pn=TOL-119-601

Or you can buy a multi application removal and installation tool for $100. Not sure if it will work with the Cooper's crankshaft seal.

 

I mean only hub unit (see link below). Dampener is another issue, but not related to non-sealed crank..



https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...b/11237537697/

 

The one from pelicanparts will work, but quite expensive. Original tool is also somewhat expensive.. I've used some external ring of a bearing that was exactly of the size I needed ))

 

But if I release the crank bolt, the timing will change, no?

 

Yes this makes more sense since the seal is touching this. I didnt realize it was a separate part you could swap out.

That being said perhaps a failing dampener could be allowing more vibration in the crank and against the crank seal?

 

Well, yes. DON'T DO it unless you have tools and skills to align the timing, or better take the car to the shop. The problem is not the seal or tool you are using to put it, but the fact that this hub is getting worn at a line when seal was touching it. When you're installing new seal, you must put it in same depth as an old one (given you will use same original part). If you miss the "path" of an old seal, it will leak pretty soon. Changing this hub eliminates the problem, and you can install the seal at maximum depth (per manual).

 

No, this is a super-tight connection with the huge bolt, and timing it held by friction created with this bolt (50lb). Having said this, there is no chance your hub, or crankshaft (this would be funny) is vibrating. If it does, seal is your last problem ))

Dampener is affecting radial movements, and any other direction is locked by crankshaft.. and it's strong enough to handle any vibration this pulley can generate.

In fact, dampener can affect your idle, as it's designed to smooth out ignition on low revs, and its quite important that dampener would be well balanced. However, no relation to leaking seal.

 

Good info. I dont know how to time the engine.

I've used Corteco and Felpro and I certainly cannot remember how deep the original leaking seal was. I may have pics...but that not gonna be accurate enough.

Maybe I can try and vary the dept of the next seal compared to its original placement?

 

You could review the procedure of timing chain replacement (at pelicanparts, and it covers this hub removal and installation), as well as youtube video-manuals.

But honestly, don't do the hub replacement yourself. My first try took me a while, and you probably saw my thread on it.

You need crankshaft bolt, camshaft two bolts, seal, seal tool, head cover gasket, skills to catch the WOT, tools to lock camshafts, tool to lock the flywheel, angle tension tool, tool to damper belt tensioner, torque wrench, putting radiator in a service position, new filter and oil, and lots and lots of energy to do the job..

Not sure how can you match the depth given you didn't mark the original position at a first place. Try to inspect the hub without removal, and see if it's just a tiny path, or the hub has some other rust or damage. Sometimes just cleaning it cures the issue.

 

Suggestion - get original seal, and put it in the maximum depth. Clean the surface of the hub as good as you can. If you've noticed, there's a stopper on the block, and that's the position where it was originally installed (maximum depth is controlled by that small stopper). It's on the left-top side (on 9 or 10 o'clock, don't remember now) of the hole where you put the seal..

 

The original seal is $40, the aftermarkets seals are $10. Absurd. Is the original part supplier Corteco?

ok Im gonna look for that mark and clean extra carefully and look for any corrosion.

The chain tensioner etc etc was changed by the dealer before I owned the car.

I REALLY appreciate your input/advice.

I havent seen your thread. point me to it.