How To Carbon Build-Up Cleaning - The right way...
4th Gear
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 532
Likes: 28
Great instructions! Could you please add the 10mm bolt to the main doc, though? Took me an hour to figure out on my own. Part of the problem is that the instructions are so good, I just figured they were totally complete, so I must have done something wrong. 
4th Gear
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 532
Likes: 28
Oh, and everyone, please take seriously the warning on eye protection and that the air gun is the messy part!!! I just shot black gunk EVERYWHERE. Thank god I didn't get any in my eye. Even where it hit my hand burns a little. Carb cleaner is some caustic stuff.
4th Gear
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 532
Likes: 28
Again, thanks for the awesome instructions. Here's a link to my thread where I could not get my MINI to start after doing the cleaning, including my pointers for not repeating what I think I did wrong.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-cleaning.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-cleaning.html
Thread Starter
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4th Gear
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 546
Likes: 56
From: Denver, CO
I think i might be changing the instructions to an easier process. I purchased the media blaster attachments that the dealership uses to blast the valves with walnut shells. Just waiting for them to arrive.
I just bought the attachments so i will need to build the other parts to hook up to a compressor and the blaster.
I noticed my valves are getting coated up again and its only been about 15k miles.
I will post updates once everything comes in.
I just bought the attachments so i will need to build the other parts to hook up to a compressor and the blaster.
I noticed my valves are getting coated up again and its only been about 15k miles.
I will post updates once everything comes in.
1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 13
Likes: 1
From: Rio Rancho, NM
texasmontego Did you find the BMW style nozzle for the media blaster? If so, would you share the source? I have looked all over the web but no luck in finding one so skinny and curved. Thanks in advance. And thanks for the great tutorial.
Neutral
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Just a quick tip for rotating an engine when you can't easily access the crank nose. Only works with a manual transmission though. Put the transmission in anything above 4th gear with clutch out and the brakes off, car on a relatively smooth surface, and just grab the upper surface of one of the front tires and roll the car backwards or forwards by turning the wheel with muscle. It's actually easy and you get pretty good control of the engine's rotation. OH!!! Make sure the ignition is off too!
Pat
Pat
1st Gear
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Excellent write-up. Appreciate your service to the community. 
Was the $250 dealer method the glorified BMW-brand Seafoam soak, or was it the walnut blaster? If the latter, I'm somewhat surprised it was so ineffective (but probably not, as I think they charge quite a bit more for the walnut blaster service).
Was the $250 dealer method the glorified BMW-brand Seafoam soak, or was it the walnut blaster? If the latter, I'm somewhat surprised it was so ineffective (but probably not, as I think they charge quite a bit more for the walnut blaster service).
2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
Just a quick tip for rotating an engine when you can't easily access the crank nose. Only works with a manual transmission though. Put the transmission in anything above 4th gear with clutch out and the brakes off, car on a relatively smooth surface, and just grab the upper surface of one of the front tires and roll the car backwards or forwards by turning the wheel with muscle. It's actually easy and you get pretty good control of the engine's rotation. OH!!! Make sure the ignition is off too!
Pat
Pat
Thank you to the OP and others who contributed here. I used a combination of the manual and walnut shell method. I say that because my carbon buildup was so bad that the blast would not remove it all. Car was running ok, just rough and lacking power. No wonder. This is approx 80k miles on an 08 MCS.....had to chip off chunks with a pick prior to blasting....
Drivers side....side closest to Pcv entry....
Same valve close up on my inspection cam.....chunky.
The other three....
Test drive after cleaning revealed power I have been missing for some time. Wow! Drastic improvement! Time well spent.
Thanks again.
Drivers side....side closest to Pcv entry....
Same valve close up on my inspection cam.....chunky.
The other three....
Test drive after cleaning revealed power I have been missing for some time. Wow! Drastic improvement! Time well spent.
Thanks again.
Neutral
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Thanks for the PDF, very clear. I completed my clean up and started up without any issues, a little rough at first but then ran fine. After a quick test drive, the throttle revs at idle. Does anyone have any thoughts as to what is causing this?
2nd Gear
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
From: ISTANBUL TURKEY
Mine did it because of a bad thermostat.
5th Gear
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 835
Likes: 5
From: Atlanta, GA
Here's a DIY for doing your own walnut blasting:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ss-3-27-13.pdf
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ss-3-27-13.pdf
1st Gear
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Manchester, UK
Great write up ...butttt
Great write up and very detailed. Is this the best way to clean away any carbon build up? My engine started to judder recently (after messing around with the spark plugs) and judders really bad when trying to accelerate on low revs/higher gear and it's doing my head in. Something else I noticed was that when the car is in idle, it sits on around 700rpm and its really scaring me
! Any help would be appreciated. Not sure where to post this message but great write up and thanks for the info already
! Any help would be appreciated. Not sure where to post this message but great write up and thanks for the info already
5th Gear
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 835
Likes: 5
From: Atlanta, GA
Walnut shell blasting is the preferred method and the method the dealers use. Here in the States the cost is about $800! Walnut shells are hard enough to remove the build up but will not harm the aluminum intake surfaces to the valves.
Is your MINI a second generation (2007 or later for hatchback)? Carbon build up is not a problem with first generation MINIs. It is a problem with direct injected engines.
Some have reported misfiring and error codes from carbon build up but for most it is a gradual loss of power and sluggish throttle response.
Is your MINI a second generation (2007 or later for hatchback)? Carbon build up is not a problem with first generation MINIs. It is a problem with direct injected engines.
Some have reported misfiring and error codes from carbon build up but for most it is a gradual loss of power and sluggish throttle response.
1st Gear
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Manchester, UK
Walnut shell blasting is the preferred method and the method the dealers use. Here in the States the cost is about $800! Walnut shells are hard enough to remove the build up but will not harm the aluminum intake surfaces to the valves.
Is your MINI a second generation (2007 or later for hatchback)? Carbon build up is not a problem with first generation MINIs. It is a problem with direct injected engines.
Some have reported misfiring and error codes from carbon build up but for most it is a gradual loss of power and sluggish throttle response.
Is your MINI a second generation (2007 or later for hatchback)? Carbon build up is not a problem with first generation MINIs. It is a problem with direct injected engines.
Some have reported misfiring and error codes from carbon build up but for most it is a gradual loss of power and sluggish throttle response.
Anyway thanks again for the information dude
Help!
Where exactly is that 10mm bolt?
Rob
is
Rob
is
There are a couple of things that need to be added.
First there is a 10mm bolt on the bottom of the manifold that has to be removed before it can be taken out. The best way to get to it is to remove the pass side tire. This also allows access to the crank shaft bolt. Using a 18 mm socket the engine can be turned over with a ratchet instead of using the starter to bump the engine.
Second there are 3 wiring holders that need to be released before the intake can be removed.
Getting the correct brush to do the job will make job easier.
My throttle body didnt need to be cleaned.
If I had to do it again it would be much quicker the second time.
The hardest part was the 10mm bolt that i didnt know about. Once that was removed the intake came out easy.
The car seems to run better, pulls and revs better.
Thanks for the guide it helped alot.
First there is a 10mm bolt on the bottom of the manifold that has to be removed before it can be taken out. The best way to get to it is to remove the pass side tire. This also allows access to the crank shaft bolt. Using a 18 mm socket the engine can be turned over with a ratchet instead of using the starter to bump the engine.
Second there are 3 wiring holders that need to be released before the intake can be removed.
Getting the correct brush to do the job will make job easier.
My throttle body didnt need to be cleaned.
If I had to do it again it would be much quicker the second time.
The hardest part was the 10mm bolt that i didnt know about. Once that was removed the intake came out easy.
The car seems to run better, pulls and revs better.
Thanks for the guide it helped alot.
Well, my valves are now clean but the car won't start. Tries to turnover but it just won't go. Could I have screwed the timing by moving the crank clockwise with a wrench? I know the valves were closed while I was blasting with walnut shells.
Any thoughts?
Rob
Any thoughts?
Rob