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HOW TO: R56 - Thermostat Housing + Thermostat >

HOW TO: R56 - Thermostat Housing + Thermostat

HOW TO: R56 - Thermostat Housing + Thermostat

  #51  
Old 02-21-2013, 03:49 PM
john171
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Originally Posted by swolfgang View Post
I am about to swap out the thermostat on my 2007 MCS. Thanks so much for the info.
Does anybody know the torque specifications for putting in the 10 mm bolts that hold the housing?
Thanks
Didn't see an answer to your question, so even though it's been a while here you go:
8Nm (71 in-lb)
Hope it helps.......
 
  #52  
Old 02-24-2013, 07:33 AM
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Waiting to get my first MINI. I'm curious to know, if anyone here has done a periodic coolant flush (every 2-3 years) and still had to replace the thermostat/waterpump at a relatively low milage. I know parts don't last forever, but I'm wondering if some preventative maintenance would increase the life span of the parts or is it just poorly made OEM parts causing the problem?

Found some interesting info here: http://blog.bavauto.com/12402/bmw-an...cement-how-to/
 
  #53  
Old 02-24-2013, 11:53 AM
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I replaced my thermostat last week. I saw a thread on here where someone suspected an O-ring going bad where a sensor attached to the top of the thermostat housing. I inspected the thermostat housing I removed, and that's the only place on the housing that had evidence of leaking. I doubt that flushing the cooling system would prevent that. Also, it is very difficult to inspect the housing on the car with the wiring harness that is on top of the housing. Mini buried the thermostat so it is very difficult to evaluate when the car is running without disassembling the air intake plumbing on an "S" anyway.
 
  #54  
Old 02-25-2013, 07:33 PM
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Great thread! Does anyone make a lower temp t-stat? My torque gauge is reading 220f pretty regularly. A 160f t-stat would be nice. Or is the valve actuated by the ecu?
Thanks for the info!
 
  #55  
Old 03-06-2013, 10:23 AM
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How do you remove the fresh air tube that runs from next to the headlight to the bottom of the air box? I don't want to break it.
 
  #56  
Old 03-06-2013, 11:53 AM
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After removing all the screws that hold the air filter housing, lift the housing up so you have some clearance. Then hold the intake tube with one hand and turn the housing anti clock wise. It will unscrew the pipe from the housing. Once that is done remove the air filter housing . now you have room to get the pipe out of there.

All the best.
 
  #57  
Old 03-18-2013, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Boosted_Mini View Post
So I guess things fail in pairs. last week my water pump went out, this week the thermostat housing started to leak. Unfortunately MINI uses plastic parts yet again.. and they heat up and expand and leak, kinda irritates me. I have 59k miles, water pump started leaking at 53k.
Oh don't you speak the absolute truth! I just replaced my water pump two days ago and now it is time to do the thermostat housing. Son of a....

The water pump took me 4 hours since the old unit would not come out easy and the new unit would not go in easy. I am looking forward to being over and done with the cooling system on this car...
 
  #58  
Old 03-19-2013, 05:09 PM
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Have just started this lovely project, the thermostat was $98, had to pick up a few tools (right angle pliers and extension bar). Took photos of the connectors so that I plug them in correctly. I have all week to do this so I am not rushing
 
  #59  
Old 03-19-2013, 08:00 PM
john171
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So where did you find the unit for $98.00?
And good luck with the replacement!!
BTW my MCS's birthday is 30.04.2007,
Same as mine, well except for the 64 years diff!
 

Last edited by john171; 03-19-2013 at 08:05 PM.
  #60  
Old 03-20-2013, 03:30 AM
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My local dealer with the Philly MINI discount
 
  #61  
Old 03-20-2013, 03:08 PM
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Back together, after taking it somewhat apart when a hose leaked, bleeding it now, thanks all.
 
  #62  
Old 03-23-2013, 02:43 PM
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Just finished the thermostat housing. Not a horrible job at all! Did it in under 3 hours. Thank you all for the input and help.
 
  #63  
Old 03-25-2013, 08:58 AM
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Real quick question in regards to bleeding the system:

I filled the overflow tank, opened the valve atop of the thermostat housing and watched the level of the overflow tank go down as I continued to fill. Most of the air is out. But this only removes some of the air.

When I start the car and leave the overflow tank cap off I wait and wait for the thermostat to open. When it finally opens it pulls coolant into the motor and I continue to keep filling the overflow tank. What surprises me is that there is a 'bubbling' sound that you can audibly hear when you put your ear to the overflow tank opening. I assume this is air being burped from the system, oddly it doesn't seem to go away.

Should I keep the cap off and wait for the system to stop the bubbling sound?
 
  #64  
Old 03-25-2013, 12:14 PM
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Heres how it worked for me......Once the fluid level no longer drops, put the cap on and let the car warm up. Shut it down and after a couple of minutes, turn the bleed screw. Do this a couple of times and all the air should escape. I carried a screwdriver around with me for a few days after replacing my water pump....and then my thermostat a few weeks later (grrrr). After getting to my destination, I'd pop the bonnet and bleed the air. Two or three times doing this and you will be good to go. Top off the tank as needed, but only after it has cooled completely as the tank is pressurized.

Something to take note of......it takes about three revolutions of the bleeder screw before it vents....so don't be afraid to turn it that far. That sais, it will come out at about four revolutions.....so turn it three times only. FYI

Good luck!
 
  #65  
Old 03-25-2013, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by myR56S View Post
Real quick question in regards to bleeding the system:

I filled the overflow tank, opened the valve atop of the thermostat housing and watched the level of the overflow tank go down as I continued to fill. Most of the air is out. But this only removes some of the air.

When I start the car and leave the overflow tank cap off I wait and wait for the thermostat to open. When it finally opens it pulls coolant into the motor and I continue to keep filling the overflow tank. What surprises me is that there is a 'bubbling' sound that you can audibly hear when you put your ear to the overflow tank opening. I assume this is air being burped from the system, oddly it doesn't seem to go away.

Should I keep the cap off and wait for the system to stop the bubbling sound?
From The Bentley Manual - For the R56 Engines.

Filling and bleeding cooling system:

Before filling radiator.
Turn ignition ON, do NOT start engine.
Set heater control to maximum temperature.
Set fan to low setting.
Set seat heater control to max.
Pour in coolant slowly. - Observe filling capacities and mixture ratio.
The cooling system is vented during filling.

Release vent screw located on thermostat housing.

Pour in MINI coolant through expansion tank filler neck until bubble-free coolant emerges at vent screw.
Close vent screw. Tightening torque 2 Nm (1.4 ft-lb)
Continue topping up coolant in expansion tank to maximum level.
Start engine and run at idle speed for one minute. Close cap.
If the level drops, top up coolant until the level no longer drops.
Run engine until it reaches operating temperature.
After engine has cooled, recheck coolant level.
Top up coolant to max. level.
Check cooling system for leaks
 

Last edited by john171; 03-25-2013 at 03:47 PM.
  #66  
Old 03-25-2013, 04:06 PM
myR56S
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Originally Posted by john171 View Post
From The Bentley Manual - For the R56 Engines.

Filling and bleeding cooling system:

Before filling radiator.
Turn ignition ON, do NOT start engine.
Set heater control to maximum temperature.
Set fan to low setting.
Set seat heater control to max.
Pour in coolant slowly. - Observe filling capacities and mixture ratio.
The cooling system is vented during filling.

Release vent screw located on thermostat housing.

Pour in MINI coolant through expansion tank filler neck until bubble-free coolant emerges at vent screw.
Close vent screw. Tightening torque 2 Nm (1.4 ft-lb)
Continue topping up coolant in expansion tank to maximum level.
Start engine and run at idle speed for one minute. Close cap.
If the level drops, top up coolant until the level no longer drops.
Run engine until it reaches operating temperature.
After engine has cooled, recheck coolant level.
Top up coolant to max. level.
Check cooling system for leaks
Now that is what I am talking aboot! Thank you John
 
  #67  
Old 03-25-2013, 05:27 PM
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Posted in another thread, might as well post here for future reference.

SA told me the Thermostat is part of the emission control system, and therefore is covered by the 7yr/70k emissions warranty.
 
  #68  
Old 03-25-2013, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by krim View Post
Posted in another thread, might as well post here for future reference.

SA told me the Thermostat is part of the emission control system, and therefore is covered by the 7yr/70k emissions warranty.
That is very good news, thanks for sharing!
Just out of curiosity, which dealer gave you that info?
 
  #69  
Old 03-25-2013, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by john171 View Post
That is very good news, thanks for sharing!
Just out of curiosity, which dealer gave you that info?
I wish I knew this beforehand
 
  #70  
Old 03-26-2013, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by john171 View Post
That is very good news, thanks for sharing!
Just out of curiosity, which dealer gave you that info?
Monrovia
 
  #71  
Old 03-30-2013, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by johne123 View Post
But one of your hoses is likely to go next. I reccommend squeezing them all. Any that feel soft are about to go. Since the plastic impeller on the pump and plastic housing of the thermostat both failed I assume you have a lot of miles on your car. That means all those coolant hoses have seen the same high number of heat cycles. The best way to address this is to do it all together. Then you wouldn't have to buy 3 gallons of coolant. Though honestly you can reuse the coolant as long as you filter it if any dirt gets in while draining.
So, it's my cars turn. 50.5K miles, 5 months past end of 4 year warranty.

I've got a BMW certified mechanic who does work on the side going to replace it for $100 labor (worth it to me) + I pay for parts and coolent, but he suggested replacing radiator hoses while he's in there. But with this cars strange plumbing, it's not clear to me which hoses would be the ones to proactively replace.

So, can anyone comment what hoses to consider replacing (link to part numbers or diagram would be good)?

It seems like few if any are taking johne123's suggestion to replace the hoses at the time of this repair.

Any thoughts?
 
  #72  
Old 03-30-2013, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by aafflyer View Post

So, it's my cars turn. 50.5K miles, 5 months past end of 4 year warranty.

I've got a BMW certified mechanic who does work on the side going to replace it for $100 labor (worth it to me) + I pay for parts and coolent, but he suggested replacing radiator hoses while he's in there. But with this cars strange plumbing, it's not clear to me which hoses would be the ones to proactively replace.

So, can anyone comment what hoses to consider replacing (link to part numbers or diagram would be good)?

It seems like few if any are taking johne123's suggestion to replace the hoses at the time of this repair.

Any thoughts?
I replaced my housing last April and didn't change the hoses. Just recently had to replace the $70 coolant pipe from the thermostat running under the intake. I suggest checking that pipe to see how the end going into the engine looks.
 
  #73  
Old 04-07-2013, 08:20 PM
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Is it possible to reverse the two rear hoses off the thermostat housing?

I have the thermostat back in the vehicle and for whatever reason the two larger hoses in the back of the unit were moved to gain access.

Before I completely reassemble the vehicle I'd like to make sure.
 
  #74  
Old 04-07-2013, 08:35 PM
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Go to realoem.com they have a diagram there.
 
  #75  
Old 04-07-2013, 08:43 PM
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Thanks, I found it.

Now back to the epic battle of the hoses and clamps.
 

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