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Maintenance :: Girl's Guide to Changing Transmission Fluid

  #51  
Old 12-31-2012, 04:36 PM
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Great write-up and pics outlining this very easy-to-do DIY. I drained OEM fluid from our 2006 R50 5spd Getrag yesterday and refilled with Redline MTL. Drain and fill plugs on the 5spd Getrag were exactly as shown in Gerldoc's how-to. Refill required 1.75 quarts of fluid.
 
  #52  
Old 02-02-2013, 10:30 AM
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Thanks Gerldoc. Just followed your procedures. Put in 1.75 quarts in my 06 MCS. All good!
 
  #53  
Old 05-19-2013, 08:18 AM
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Silly question, will REDLINE MTL 70w80 tranny oil work for my 04 MCS 95K??�❔
 
  #54  
Old 05-19-2013, 08:53 AM
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Questions are not silly. If it is a 6 speed, yes.
 
  #55  
Old 05-19-2013, 08:56 AM
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Yes its a 6 speed thanks��
 
  #56  
Old 05-24-2013, 04:30 PM
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There are great DIY's on the topic here on NAM. We have also put together a step-by-step for changing transmission fluid for both manual & auto (not cvt):

Manual Transmission Fluid Change (R50, 52 & 53 up to '08)

Automatic Transmission Fluid Change (R52 & 53)

Have a great Memorial Day Weekend everyone!
 
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  #57  
Old 05-29-2013, 08:36 AM
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5-speed manual transmission difference

The drain and fill bolts on the 5-speed are 17mm standard bolts, not hex bolts. If you remove the driver's side wheel you can reach both with a long extension attached to a 3/8" or 1/2" ratchet without getting under the car. You can also use a piece of clear tubing about 3 feet long and a funnel to add the new fluid from the wheel well by holding the funnel at the level of the top of the fender.
 
  #58  
Old 10-31-2013, 12:57 PM
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So I've been following this thread and decided to get on amazon to buy the recommended transmission fluid. Amazon's pictures must be out dated because I ordered the exact stuff shown in the write up. I got this in the mail. Is this ok to use?

Thanks!
 
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  #59  
Old 10-31-2013, 01:47 PM
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Transmission Fluid

You didn't state your year and transmission model. For my 2003, 5 speed, Red Line MTL 75W80 is the recommended fluid.

There are 5-speed and 6-speed manual transmissions and CVT and standard automatic transmission available for Mini's depending on year.

You might get more help here: http://www.redlineoil.com/application.aspx
 
  #60  
Old 10-31-2013, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by ghas View Post
You didn't state your year and transmission model. For my 2003, 5 speed, Red Line MTL 75W80 is the recommended fluid. There are 5-speed and 6-speed manual transmissions and CVT and standard automatic transmission available for Mini's depending on year. You might get more help here: http://www.redlineoil.com/application.aspx
Sorry. '05 MCS.
 
  #61  
Old 10-31-2013, 02:10 PM
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6 speed.
 
  #62  
Old 10-31-2013, 02:51 PM
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Transmission Fluid

Your car uses the same transmission oil as mine, the Red Line
MTL 75W80 GL-4 Gear Oil. I changed mine several months ago and it is a noticeable improvement.

Your photo is of the heavier weight 75W90.
 
  #63  
Old 10-31-2013, 03:24 PM
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As stated above, MTL 75W80 GL-4 is the correct trans fluid for your MINI.

Mark/Pelican Parts
 
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  #64  
Old 10-31-2013, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by PelicanParts.com View Post
As stated above, MTL 75W80 GL-4 is the correct trans fluid for your MINI. Mark/Pelican Parts
I can still use the 75w90 correct?
 
  #65  
Old 11-07-2013, 12:37 PM
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75w-90

Welp, I used the 75W-90 that I pictured. Car shifts great. Everything seems to be smoother.
 
  #66  
Old 11-13-2013, 04:11 PM
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Glad to hear shifting is great!
 
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  #67  
Old 04-20-2014, 02:45 PM
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Just did my 03 MCS following the exact procedure Gerldoc posted using the same fluids she suggested. Car runs smooth and brownish fluid is now replaced by nice clean red one. The only difference in my process is that I swapped the drain plug with a high powered magnetized one from Dimple Oil Plugs. Thanks for a great, detailed how to on this process!!
 
  #68  
Old 05-27-2014, 05:38 PM
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I'm going to try and do mine...

Originally Posted by MINIdave View Post
Thanks for posting this, and it's very well done too!

I'd love to see more "grrls" doing their own work on their cars....I taught my daughter how to work on her car one summer when she was in college. We bought her a VW bug and spent all summer doing all sorts of stuff including a new engine, redoing the seats and a whole bunch of other maint, like brake adjustment, trans lube, tightening the steering box and so on. We then took a 4,000 mile trip in it across country to her school! it was a fantastic summer, a great learning experience for her and she's used the skills she's learned ever since.

I think the most important thing she learned tho was the confidence to tackle mechanical things on her own, without needing a "guy" to help her. She's married with 5 kids now and she's still the go-to guy in their household when things don't work.

A lot of times the excuse I hear has to do with not being strong enough - however I find it's usually down to not knowing how to use the tools and how to apply leverage - something that seems to be inate knowledge for guys but not so much for grrls. So guys, get the women in your lives involved with their cars, don't do it for them, teach them how to do it themselves, everyone will benefit if you do, including them!
I'm going to try and do mine this weekend But you are right having the confidence to do it and understanding how to use the proper tools properly is the hardest part. Duchess
 
  #69  
Old 05-27-2014, 05:51 PM
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Great great job!!!

Originally Posted by Gerldoc View Post
I thought I had done most of the 50K maintenance on my 2005 MCSc (I'm actually at 52K) - but I neglected one thing - a transmission fluid change!

I think I fell for the "never needs changing" line that I had heard from the dealer... After reading some posts on it, I though hmmmmm...maybe I should just do it - what if it really could use fresh oil?

Well, in a nutshell, I am darned glad I did. After seeing the photo of the used fluid below at the bottom of this post, I think you'll agree!

This is NOT hard to do at all - just a bit messy!

So here's another guide for the other grrrls out there on how to do this...



THINGS YOU WILL NEED:

1) Ick clothes - wear ones that you wouldn't be upset if some oil got on
them (just in case!)

2) A car jack and 2 stands.

3) 2 quart bottles of manual transmission gear oil. Like many of the
others on this forum, I bought Redline MTL 70W80. Redline is not sold
at all auto parts stores. If you want to find out where to get it near
you, go here: http://www.redlineoil.com/ and type in your zipcode.

I paid $13.99 a quart (it's good stuff).



4) A shallow (and preferably somewhat wide) catch pan. I bought a
square plastic basin at a hardware store (the kind you would put in
the sink to wash dishes in).

5) One 8 mm. hex bit (socket drive) and socket wrench (or breaker bar)
Don't make the mistake I did! Without looking first to see what the
drain and fill plugs actually looked like, I had read about needing an "8
mm. hex socket" and bought that
What you want is a 8 mm. hex BIT with a socket drive. The drive is
going to be 3/8 inch (or possibly 1/2 inch) size. You will want to be
sure that the socket wrench drive is the appropriate size. If you have
a wrench with a 1/2 inch drive and the bit uses a 3/8 inch drive, you
can buy a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter for about 3-4 dollars.
A breaker bar is just a long (usually 18 - 24 inch) heavy metal socket
wrench, with either a 1/2" or 3/8" drive. it is used for the express
purpose of loosening bolts (like off of your wheels) and is a darned
handy tool to own. Auto parts stores will have them.


The 8 mm. hex bit was $3.99 at the autoparts store, and this is what it looked like:






6) A torque wrench (warning - despite temptation, DON'T use this as your breaker bar - it will ruin the calibration of the wrench!)

7) A plastic funnel and clear vinyl tubing, with 1/2" o.d. (outer diameter)
and 3/8" inner diameter. I got a 20 ft. coil of it at Home Depot for
about 6 - 7 dollars. You will only need about 3 to 4 feet of it.

8) A short piece of wood dowel, or - I used this - one of those skinny
bamboo garden stakes (the ones about 1/4 inch in diameter).

9) Some nitrile gloves and some shop towels are handy, since it IS
oil, and things WILL get messy, despite how careful you try and be!

10) Your favorite after-the job-is-done vice!



STEP ONE:

Before you actually get started...thers have suggested first placing the quarts of oil in a sink partially filled with warm water, so that when you go to pour it, it will come out faster. (It has the consistency of maple syrup!) I just placed mine is the warm sun, and it worked out fine.

Jack up the car, and place the jackstands under the squarish jack points at the front of the car (you can see the if you look under the edge of the door sills). You want to try and have the car end up as level as possible - so having the car initially positioned so the back end is a bit higher than the front should be perfect. (I was stuck doing this is my driveway, and due to the way it is, there was NO way to get my car as level as I wanted, but it was close.)

LEAVE THE JACK UNDER THE CAR - always a good idea in case one of the
stands should fail!!


STEP TWO:

Place yourself front and center of the car, and look under the front of the car towards the driver's side. About an arm's length away, you will see the transmission casing, and two black plugs:




Place your drain pan under this area, and a bit more towards the passenger side of the car (when the oil comes out the bottom hole, it will arc out towards the passenger side and you don't want it to miss the pan!)

[This is (physically speaking) the hardest part of the job. MINI factory apparently likes to torque the plugs in really tightly, and they can be hard to remove - I had read this over and over. However, at 5'6" and 135#, I was able to loosen both plugs with just my El Cheapo 10 inch socket wrench - it just took some muscle and leverage.]

Using your socket wrench/breaker bar and the 8 mm. hex bit, LOOSEN THE TOP (FILL) PLUG.

I repeat - LOOSEN THE TOP PLUG FIRST!!

Reason being, if you loosen the drain hole first and all the oil drains out, and then you find that you can't get the top plug out, you are now stuck with a car that will need to be towed to a mechanic!!!

Once the top plug is just loosened, go to the bottom (drain) plug and JUST LOOSEN it - once budged this little bit, you will be able to unscrew both plugs by hand.


STEP FOUR:

Remove the loosened bottom (drain) plug by unscrewing it with your hand. Be sure that the catch pan is situated right, because at first, the oil will come arcing out - then it will drip. Let the oil all drain out (about 10 minutes or so.)

After all the oil has drained out, replace the drain plug, and tighten it firmly with your hand.






STEP FIVE:

Take your 3 to 4 foot vinyl tubing, and insert the dowel (or piece of tomato stake, as I did!) into one end. This will stiffen the tubing so that you can easily feed it down through the engine bay to the fill plug below.

Here is a handy area through which the tubing can go, practically straight down, to the drain pan:





Remove the piece of dowel/stake, and insert that end into the top (fill) hole - it only goes in about 3/4 of an inch or so - not far.

Back in the engine bay above, place the funnel into the other end of the tubing. Keep the drain pan in position under the plugs.




Now, retrieve the oil from the sink (or the sun) and pour it into the funnel.
Pour until the oil starts to come back out of the fill hole. You will use about 1 3/4 quarts of the oil.





STEP SIX:

Once you have filled the transmission case, torque both plugs -

For the MCS, torque both plugs to 32 ft.-lbs.

For the MC, torque the top (fill) plug to 22 ft.-lbs. and the bottom (drain) plug to 30 ft.-lbs.


STEP SEVEN:

Remove the jack stands and jack. Take the car for a spin - you will probably notice that the shifting seems smoother!
Dispose of the used oil as you would any other oil - NOT by pouring into a storm sewer or drain! Take it to a local auto parts store that will dispose of it for you, or to the hazardous waste removal area for your county.


Here is a photo of the used oil:

As you can see, it has a blackish-maroon color:






AND HERE IS WHAT YOU CAN'T SEE!!!






Obviously, there were a LOT of metal shavings and tiny metal bits

And MINI says that the oil never needs to be changed!!!???
OMG, you did a fantastic job! Because of you I'm motivated to try and do mine. I just did a tune-up so now I'm going to delve into this project! Thank you so much for posting this!!! Respectfully, Duchess...

P,S. would you mind re-posting the pic of how the fluid looked after it was drained...?
 

Last edited by Duchess; 05-27-2014 at 06:17 PM.
  #70  
Old 05-28-2014, 12:19 AM
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FWIW, I use a fluid pump to fill the tranny. That way you can be down below and see when it fills up.
 
  #71  
Old 01-25-2016, 06:35 PM
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drain plug and/or gasket replacement?

Hi,


Should one replace the drain plugs when changing the oil? I don't see any mention of a drain plug gasket either. Is there one? None of the sites I've visited seem to list one.


-Eric
 
  #72  
Old 01-26-2016, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by ewgoforth View Post
Hi,


Should one replace the drain plugs when changing the oil? I don't see any mention of a drain plug gasket either. Is there one? None of the sites I've visited seem to list one.


-Eric
The drain plug is designed to be used only once as it has a small rubber seal built into the plug itself. You can choose to re-use the old drain plug, but it may leak when you re-tighten it. The plug itself is cheap, so it's added insurance against oil leaks. Torque the drain plug to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs). We have drain plugs HERE.
 
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  #73  
Old 01-26-2016, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by PelicanParts.com View Post
The drain plug is designed to be used only once as it has a small rubber seal built into the plug itself. You can choose to re-use the old drain plug, but it may leak when you re-tighten it. The plug itself is cheap, so it's added insurance against oil leaks. Torque the drain plug to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs). We have drain plugs HERE.
I think he was referring to the plugs for the transmission, not the engine oil.
 
  #74  
Old 01-27-2016, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Racingguy04 View Post
I think he was referring to the plugs for the transmission, not the engine oil.


For automatic R52 S R53 S Auto.

Yep, those are here,


https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2005-...Transmission/2

24117570791

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/24117570791/




&

24117570792

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/24117570792/






I would replace the gasket ring , but since the plug is not a heavy used plugs, maybe a couple times in the lifetime. You should not have to replace it unless it damaged or for prevention.

All other fluids, filters, and kit here For automatic R52 S/ R53 auto

https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2005-..._Transmission/





------------------------------------------------------------

Thats also here:


For the manual R52 S , R53 S

The upper and lower fill and drain pugs are the same. There is no gasket on these for replacement. Some people replace them as needed or if the head is stripped out or damaged.


https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2005-Cooper-R52-S-Convertible-L4_1.6L_W11B16A/Drivetrain/Manual_Transmission/


23127602815

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/23127602815/ES2079796/






Thanks
 
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  #75  
Old 01-27-2016, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by ewgoforth View Post
Hi,


Should one replace the drain plugs when changing the oil? I don't see any mention of a drain plug gasket either. Is there one? None of the sites I've visited seem to list one.


-Eric
Originally Posted by Racingguy04 View Post
I think he was referring to the plugs for the transmission, not the engine oil.
You're right! Overlooked the thread title.

AUTOMATIC PLUG INFORMATION FOR R52/R53:

In the factory parts diagrams, this drain plug is referred to as an inspection plug. The drain for the transmission consists of two pieces; the inspection plug and the overflow tube. There is also a fill plug on the top of the transmission housing. The fill plug is located near the mating surface of the transmission to the engine on top. For the inspection plug, you can re-use it, but it is recommended to use a new crush washer HERE (one that ends in 792).

Inspection plug - part number 791 HERE.



Fill plug



MANUAL PLUG INFORMATION R53:

Note that the location of the fill/drain plugs are different on both the Cooper and Cooper S. Cooper S plugs below. For more information on the location for Cooper plugs go to our manual transmission fluid DIY on our site under MINI > tech info (tab at top).

Both drain and fill plug (no o ring needed for manual) - part number HERE.



For a Cooper, there is in fact two copper crush washers that sit on the backside of both the drain and fill plugs. You'll want to replace those washers. You can get them HERE.

Let me know if you have any questions.
 
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