What are the viscosity of these oils? Ive read about MTL, MTF . . .

Ive been to 2 different auto parts stores and neither one has any clue about what a MINI needs because they arent in their computers. Neither store has any of the brand names mentioned in these threads that I located on my NAM 'search.'

Silvereagle wrote that 75w-90 is much too heavy but thats the lightest weight I could find here, and he recommends MTF. What is the weight of Redline MTF? And, some other threads said use MTL. Whats the right stuff, most specifically, whats the best viscosity: 75W- . . . what?

 

Erick, The AMSOIL "MTF" is a Synthetic 5W30 gear oil which AMSOIL recomends their MTF only for the MINI'S up to 07/2004. After that they state"No AMSOIL Recommendation". Under a foot note it shows that BMW Part # 83 22 7 533 818 or equivalent be used. They use information from the Manufacturers gathered by "2010 MOTOR Information Systems, a division of Hearst Business Media Inc.". Hope that this helps.
Gene

 

Im an owner of an R50 and im going insane being conscience about my midlands 5spd transmission. Now im no auto guru but i did have some education and experiance in automotive field but i think that statement there needs retracting or revising. But this is coming from an R50 which isnt the same as the S, so who am i to say anyway, your car.lol.

 

Another great thread.

I've not changed the tranny oil in my wife's '03 MCS, but will probably do it shortly as I'm in the process of an elongated 60K maintenance routine. However, I have changed the tranny oil in my '74 911 and I use a fluid pump found at any parts store. That eliminates the funnel and long hose.

Since the tranny only uses 1 3/4 quarts of oil, I would let the first little bit of new oil flush out all of the old.

Keep up the good work. These How To's really help.

 

So Scott... Are you saying there is no need to change the fluid in my 03 5spd???? I just bought it with 60K miles and a blown engine. Once appart I found a busted rod, bent valves and a trashed piston in that cylinder and hole in the block. Oh yeah cylinders 3 & 4 had spun rod bearings too. I'm pround to say that it's all fixed up and driving for about $400. Yes obviously I did the work myself and wow are Mini parts expensive. They wanted $350 just for the crank bearings, but I figured out another option and paid less than $100 had the crank turned and valves replaced for $200, put in a used piston/rod assembly $100, new head gasket and repaired the hole in the lower block skirt.

Oh sorry back to the question..... I been reading some not good things about the early 5spds, so figured I should change the fluid. But Scott, it sounds like you don't think changing the fluid will make much difference, or help it last longer.

PS... if anyone else needs rod bearing I can set you up with a set for $95, standards or +10, 20, 30. Way cheaper and better bearings than Mini sells

Victor

 

It certainly wouldn't hurt to change it, and doing so would be small potatoes, difficulty-wise, compared to everything you've already done. I was just saying that as long as the original oil hasn't leaked out, you're not likely to have a lubrication problem any time soon.

 

I would add one more suggestion...
If you have driven you car since new, and haven't ground your gears much, then if the fluid hasen't leaked out, it might be safe to skip the change.
If you bought your car used, and don't know, I'd change it personly...get rid of any particles suspended in the oil that could be causing excess wear.
That having been said, I'll likely change mine anyway...heck, less than 2 quarts of gear oil, even the best you can find will set you back less than $40.
So it is cheap, easy insurance for a diy'er to do this when the car is already jacked up on stands, and the tools are out.

 

Absolulty Zippy!!!!

 

OMG...new member here,and this is exactly what I'm looking for...!!!
Thank you so much!!

 

Doing this tomorrow excellent job !!

 

Answered all my questions - outstanding "How To".
THX

 

None of the Advanced Auto Part stores near me carry Red Line MTF.

Are any other brands okay for 2003 MCS? I did hear them saying they carry Royal Purple and maybe Motul.

Anyone know if Walmart has a good Manural Tranny Oil/Gear Oil for Mini's?

 

I'm at Summit racing right now getting my D6 ATF for my 06 manual.
Redline isn't in many stores.
I'm using red because of the history of BMW junkies that pour it over Cheereos rather than milk. It has a good track record.

 

Just back from the test drive -
budda BUDDA I SAY!
I do highly recommend pouring some down your arm so you can smell as bad as it does.
Again - nice write up. I did find a solution to the "tube/funnel" idea. Pepboys sells (i'm sure others do to) a lube filling tube attachment thingy that has a shut-off valve. Now the attachment end fits on a oil bottle not a redline tranny lube bottle. I fiound that Royal Purple oil bottles work fine after cutting off the bottom and cleaning them out .

OFF TO THE DRAGON!!

Cheers

 

Great instructions - took less than 30 minutes start to finish (much less than my first oil change which included a trip to home depot to get an extractor to remove the rounded off drain plug!)

Winnie only has 30k miles, but is 6 years old, so it seemed like a good time to refresh the fluid. It does seem to shift a little smoother, but I wouldn't bet my life on it - could be just me...

 

Does the fill and/or drain plugs have crush washers that need to be replaced? Haven't opened mine up yet, so thought I'd check before I do.

 

Great write ups (all of em). Thanks

 

Can't wait to tackle this! Thanks

 

I trying to DIY but I only have 2 jack stand so if I put both at the front than the front will be higher than the rear. Will I under-flow or over-flow the transmission oil?

Thanks :D

 

Just did this yesterday (ordered my redline through ECSTuning) and wow, what a difference. My cars got about 110K on it, and it didnt look to ever have been changed. Its so much smoother now.

 

Just did this, easy as pie thanks to this awesome how-to. Thanks Gerldoc!

ok, after about a week of driving after the change I can honestly say the shifting action is noticeable smoother. I tried to convince myself that this wasn't just the "i made the effort so it must be better" improvement, but I don't think so. I'd go so far as to call it a "must do" given how easy it was and the improvement.

 

Recently purchased an '02 Non S w/5 speed & 96k miles on odo. Want to change the transmission fluid, but all of the diy fluid changes that I've found here and on the www are on "S" models. My transmission doesn't have the big Black plugs with the 8mm hex fitting. I haven't been able to identify the Fill and Drain plugs.

I did discover that the transaxle is a remanufactured one because there is a label on it. I have no service history, so want to do the fluid change as a precaution. Thanks for your help.

 

To make life easier for manual transmissions/transaxles and differentials (other vehicles obviously), you may want to invest in this little hand pump.

Click here

Bought it for when I worked in the Infiniti dealership, used to use the gravity method but took more time. Time is money when you are working flag hours.

 

@Glynn

I have a 2006 R50 and am getting ready to change the transmission fluid and would like to know where the drain and fill plugs are on an R50. I believe I have located the drain, but the fill still eludes me.

Lil' help here?

 

I just changed my transmission fluid on a 5 speed getrag (non S) following this procedure- the procedure worked just fine for a base Mini.

The fluid was black with silvery streaks through it, which I assume is fine metal particles. I replaced with Redline MTL oil and the shifting is smoother and quieter. I never thought changing the oil would make such a noticeable difference.

Just one hint- have the plastic catch pan positioned far enough away to catch the oil stream as it will shoot out a good 8 to 10 inches when the lower plug is first removed.