Just an FYI. An earlier post that advised 4 Imperial quarts = 5 US quarts is a common misconception and not exactly true.

Although an Imperial quart contains 40 (Imperial) ounces and a US quart 32 (US) ounces, suggesting an Imperial/US ratio of 4/5, an Imperial ounce is slightly smaller than a US ounce.

The conversion ratio is actually 5/6 not 4/5.

5 Imperial quarts = 6 US quarts.
4 Imperial quarts = 4.8 US quarts.

Not a huge difference I know but it may help prevent someone from overfilling their oil.

 

Actually it's a "27mm" 6 point socket to remove the oil filter housing.

 

Great write-up. Performed my first oil change yesterday with nearly 5000 miles on the car. Thanks for the pictures especially on removing the oil filter.

 

can you please tell me where these oem filters are? which site?

 

Sorry, I no longer have the Mini. And the vendors seems to have changed somewhat since I was active.

 

Here

http://www.outmotoring.com/mini-coop...il_filter.html

 

thanks, thats even better than the amazon deal, i ended up canceling that and going with this on usps shipping($2.50)

 

I would be REAL uneasy torquing the drain to only 10 fit pounds. That is about half the torque of any drain plug , on any vehicle, I have ever encountered.

 

Good post, but I would suggest againt Mobile 1. Fantastic oil for non turbo cars, but I've researched and it doesn't hold up as well when sitting in a hot turbo after shut down. I order Mini OEM oil at $7 and change and aim for every 5k.

 

Depends on which grade you buy (RE: Mobile 1).

0W-40 is recommended for Mini. Same grade I used on my old MB C36 AMG.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/..._1_0W-40.aspx#

Not only approved for BMW long life, but approved for GT-R (540+ HP 3.8L twin turbo), and Porsche. Should be good enough for our little 1.6L turbo.

Mobile-1 0W-40 Approvals: (From Mobile website link above)

Mobil 1 0W-40 synthetic motor oil meets or exceeds the requirements of:
API SN/SM/SL/SJ
ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4
Nissan GT-R

Mobil 1 0W-40 motor oil has the following builders approval:
MB-Approval 229.3
MB-Approval 229.5
BMW LONGLIFE OIL 01
VW 502 00
VW 505 00
PORSCHE A40

According to ExxonMobil, Mobil 1 0W-40 is of the following quality:
API CF
VW 503 01
SAAB
OPEL Long Life Service Fill GM-LL-A-025
OPEL Diesel Service Fill GM-LL-B-025
FIAT FIAT 9.55535 – M2
FIAT FIAT 9.55535 – N2
FIAT FIAT 9.55535 – Z2

The 5W30 Mobile-1, the one that caught my eye at CostCo, has none of these approvals. That's why I was searching the forum and ran into this post. Glad I checked.

Mobile-1 5W30 Approvals: (From Mobile website)

Mobil 1 5W-30 synthetic motor oil meets or exceeds the requirements of:
ACEA A1/B1, A5/B5
API SN, SM, SL, SJ
ILSAC GF-5
Ford WSS-M2C946-A
Ford WSS-M2C929-A

Mobil 1 5W-30 has the following builder approvals:
General Motors Service Fill dexos1™
Honda / Acura HTO-06

Mobil 1 5W-30 is recommended by ExxonMobil for use in applications requiring:
General Motors 4718M
General Motors 6094M

 

Good to know man thanks. It's the 5w30 that I noticed that wasn't up to par. Anyone ever run 0 weight in their r56?

 

I was surprised by the 5W-30 also. I bought 0W40 for my AMG while ago from Amazon for a whole lot more than 5W-30 at CostCo. Thats why i was interested in grabbing some until I checked the website. 0W-40 worked great for my AMG.

I just had the oil changed at the dealer while the car is still under warranty, but i'll be changing the next one.

But I am surprised by the numbers of guys on the forum buying the cheaper stuff on the basis of more frequent changes. If the oil is not up to spec, its not up to spec the day you fill the engine.

 

True that man in my Nissan, I could get 5qts of the 5w30 for like 25 bucks and it was fantastic. But in my Mini, I go straight for OEM from the dealer and I aim for 5k per change. But if that euro formula works out, I might push it to 7k. I'm so paranoid about keeping my oil fresh.

 

Great write up. As a new MINI owner, I'll be changing the oil very soon so I know it was done properly.

Many moons ago in my mustang days, I built a set of these:

http://mustangworld.com/ourpics/News/mwramps/

Still have them and they work great.

I imagine the dimensions of the main base could be shortened for the MCS shorter wheelbase.

Good to know about the Mobil-1 oil. I've been trying to decide what oil I want to run. I used to be an Amsoil guy and I like Royal Purple as well.

Though I saw one thread on here that some guys like to run Rotella T6? Primarily because of the better zinc content? Anyone have any experiences with it they'd like to share?

That dipstick on my '09, man, I see what everyone is saying. I don't see how you're supposed to get an accurate reading on that thing.

 

Nice write-up

I would add the following:

Mann filters and others do not include the crush gasket (or "gasket ring", 11137546275 ). I searched the web for the dimensions of the crush ring on the 2nd generation MINI and couldn't find it, so I'll post it here for future generations. It's a 16mm copper crush gasket, you can find them anywhere from 3 bucks for 10 to 5 bucks each(!) online. Buy a pack of ten (they fit many Subarus too).

4.4 qts of Mobil 0w/40

Don't ever roll an o-ring into place, it might end up stretched backwards or "half-rolled" in the groove, which would stress and shorten its life.

Checking the oil, pull the dipstick and wait as long as you can stand, then read it on the first pull. Subsequent pulls will show a false high level.

 

I just changed mine today. Walmart was out of mobile 1 0w-40 but they had Castrol edge 0w-40 euro formula for 25 bucks for a 5 gallon jug.

I went to Auto zone for a filter and all they had was a STP. Made in China. Passed. Went to OReilly's and they had a Wix. Came with the o ring and crush washer.

Not a bad job at all. Thanks for the tip on using the first pull. Subsequent checks did make it seem high. I'll keep am eye on the level this week.

 

Thank you so much for the information... I'll be doing my first oil change at 4k miles.

 

Thank you, this is most helpful for me!

 

I had checked my oil a couple of weeks ago, first time since the last dealer oil change, and had to try multiple times to get some kind of a legible reading. After leaving the cleaned dipstick out for over an hour on 3 different occasions, I could finally see there was some textured area showing in the middle of the measurement area meaning I must be within a quart of maximum fill.
I've now decided to do my midpoint (5000) miles oil change without replacing the filter. I may eventually start doing oil and filter every 5000.
I drained the oil as completely as possible on level ground and collected approximately 4.25 quarts.

Is this about how much should come out without a filter change? I have an N16 engine (2013 "Justa ")

 

Great information on how to change the oil. One correction, you need a 27mm socket to remove the filter. 1 1/16" is actually just under 27mm.

 

1 and 1/16'th works for me (2009 Cooper).

 

I finally got around doing this on my 2009 Clubman.

I swung by my local hardware store and had them cut a 10ft 2x10 into 4 pieces (2 pieces 3 feet and 2 pieces 2 feet). I then used 4 #6x2 wood screws to screw the 24 in pieces on top of the 36 inch pieces to create 2 ramps. Unfortunately, they wouldn't do angle cuts, or I would have asked them to cut the ends at a 30 degree angle. The reason I didn't use a jack is my garage is too narrow. Total Cost~$10

Driving up on the ramps, it gave me enough clearance to fit my 3/8 ratchet and 8mm hex bit socket. I bought the 8mm hex bit socket at Menards for $1.97 (Crescent brand). The only issue is I didn't have enough clearance for my oil pan and wrench without creating a mess, so I used the cheap one that comes in the $5 oil change kit from Advanced Auto (includes oil pan, shop towels, orange hand cleaner and a funnel). I ended up using all 4 so it was well worth it and transferred my old oil to my other oil pan for easier transporting for recycling later.

The hardest part for me was taking the oil filter housing off and waiting all day for the mailman to deliver the oil filter. I used a 27mm 6 point socket, but I think the dealer might have overtightened it. After some extra muscle, I was able to get it off. If I had tried taking it off with a 12 point socket, I am pretty sure I might have rounded off the plastic, due to how tight it was on there.

After I changed the drain plug crush washer and tightened to 22 lbs, I re-installed the oil filter gasket with the OEM filter I bought on eBay from Prestige Mini ($12.60 + free shipping) and then started by hand tightening and finished if off with my ratchet. I then refilled using the 5 liter of Lubri Moly 5w30 from Bavarian Auto ($43.90), and used about 4 liters.

Finally, I checked the oil level, started the car and and then rechecked for oil leaks. After cleaning up I reset the oil change interval indicator. I think this was one of the easiest jobs and believe any person with the right tools can do it, even a noob.

 

Good afternoon. I was able to find the Purolator Filter for my Mini for only 16 bucks at my local "Advanced Auto" Store. No they did not hav eit at "Auto Zone." They would have to order it for you. I can do that.
Also purchased the recommended Castrol Synthetic oil for a 5W30 jug for 37 bucks(5 quarts), oil pan drain plug and gaskets at this same location. Yeap they have other synthetic oils from other brands and that is ok as well. Just sticking with the recommended.

 

The only Castrol I can ever find is the 0w-40 Edge which is the European formula and listed as BMW long life rated.

Is it ok to use this weight?

 

Yes. It's on the approved list in the Owners Manual and is used by multitudes of happy MINI owners...including me.