I tried to access the the Twerks Swap how-To, but is no longer available. I have a 2004 R50 and the trans is locked up, only works in Reverse. You can shift it from Neutral to any of the 5 forward gears but wont move (it feels like its locked up). Another symptom, is you can not push it forward when it in Neutral. If this sounds like its time to replace the gearbox, I'd like to pursue the Getrag 6-Speed Swap, recommended by Twerks. Thank you for any help that can you provided/advised out there.

 

I have a 2004 R50, my Tranny just locked up, meaning, while I can shift to any of the 5 gears, it does move forward. It does however, shift into Reverse and moves in reverse. You can not even push it forard even in Neutral. Im planning on doing the Getrag 6 Speed swap. PLease aadvise. You seem to have success and happy with the swap. Thank you.

 

I have the PDF stored on my computer. anyone who needs it can feel free to email me and I'll be glad to send it! acasey1987@gmail.com. Or, just click here: https://web.archive.org/web/20150404...heWeakLink.pdf

 

I'm going on a little over a year & a half, and the axles are still perfect! No regrets here, and definitely happy that I didn't waste the extra money.

 

My two cents is that if you decide to use aftermarket axles you need to make sure that they come with the carrier bearing for the passenger side of the car. Swapping the carrier bearing and bracket from the R50 to the R53 axles is easy and fits but the brackets are different. The six speed transmission axles sit about an inch further back front of mounting point on the block.

 

Hey all, I'm knee deep in the tranny swap from a 5 speed Midland(03 Mini) to a 6 speed Getrag. So far it's been tedious but not difficult. I went with a Valeo flywheel/clutch set. The Mini/BMW clutch alignment tool was worthless, not long enough to engage the crank. The included alignment tool worked OK. My issue is the shift cables. One of them is not long enough to snap on the linkage. Guess I'm ordering MCS cables. I'm having trouble finding the reverse switch plug. Anyone found a fix for this?

 

I don't know the answer, but I did google the filename. I recommend saving a copy to your computer.

http://personal.stevens.edu/~jdunn/F...heWeakLink.pdf

 

I'm not sure what you mean by " I'm having trouble finding the reverse switch plug." If you're saying you can't find the part through any retailer, and you're talking about the male & female elec. plug clips, I called the dealer when I ordered mine and it seemed like something you kind of had to piece together with several parts: I think there was a separate housing and metal tabs and such. I actually hard-wired mine and the next time I replaced the clutch, I broke the wires so mine don't work currently. If you're just talking about the switch, that should be one unit and avail. at the dealer easily.

 

Hey all, Finally finished my swap. It's been 2+ years in the making but it's done and I'm loving it! I am so impressed with my Mini, after sitting for over 2 years it started and ran like it was just shut off yesterday! Change fluids, and away I went... And when I say away I went I mean it. Drove it about 20 miles or so around my mom and dad's, where I did the swap then 5 hours (350 miles) home!

Did I mention that I love the gearing!

I need to say THANK YOU! to everyone who posted tips on the swap!!!! NAM is the best!

Special thanks to WAY (Way Motor Works) who answered about a million questions and Edmond from Mini World Inc. in Sun Valley, CA who went way out of his way to get the Tranny to my in time to get it my car! I Highly recommend Way Motor Works and Mini World Inc.!

 

IT IS ALIVE! Finally finished and driven on a maiden voyage. I pieced my reverse switch plug together with parts from a Mini dealer, it can be done. My issue now is I noticed a small puddle of fluid under it today. Seems my bone yard left side axle lock ring won't hold it in the transmission. I have to go to the Mini dealer tomorrow for a key anyway so I'll pick one up.

 

Can you share the part numbers? I need to do that myself.

 

As I bring this thread back from the dead, I want to thank anyone that answers my question. For the 6 speed swap, about how much did it cost you? I will probably go this route if and when my Midlands fails, along with a Quaife and clutch/flywheel

Thanks in advance

 

My MINI has been in the shop getting this done now over the last week.
It's supposed to be ready day after tomorrow (Monday).
The differential bearings were failing on my Midlands starting about a month
ago, making a th-th-th-th-th sound with any load on the gearbox, and
gradually getting worse.
See posts #361 -364 at the end of this thread:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3956442

Part list for Midlands to 6-speed Getrag Swap:

23007574849 (post 7/04 G50-85B6TBKE 6-speed Getrag)
22316754422 transmission mount
07119904576 x 4 bolts for above
23117527716 reverse switch
Wire to extend reverse switch harness
12527511315 rev switch connector
31607574850KT passenger side axle
31607574852KT driver side axle
31106773005 x 2 hex nuts
31607518264 lock ring (only need 1 or 2?)
23117509737 transmission bowden bracket
23117572706 x 3 screws for above
25117548431 shift cable
25117547371 other shift cable
21516777428 output clutch slave cylinder
21526759854 clutch pipe
21526774286 other clutch pipe
21526759855 bracket
25117542693 shifter box
25117542272 ****
25117527267 base plate
25117527282 profile gasket
25117527283 x 4 screws for above
25117527266 x 2 clips
25117527285 x 2 clips
25117527287 x 2 seals
ECS#2016305 valeo clutch/flywheel DM conversion
ECS#2650525 powerflex transmission mount inserts (optional)
11111492244 rear crank seal (optional but recommended)
12417570488 starter
23117551719 guide tube for trans/clutch
24007513345 cover plate for transmission near shaft seal
BMW MTF-LT-3 or Redline D6 gear oil (2 liters)

QDF38Z Quaife differential (optional)
SKF differential bearings x 2 (if using above)

I was going to wait until I got it back to post about it here, but
since people are asking, I'll do that now.
I spent almost $7000 on parts and shipping including the Quaife, and labour is
probably going to be a bit under $2000. Without the Quaife, it would probably
be about $6000 plus $1600 labour. I'm also putting in a Milltek header,
new front O2 sensor, and a water pump and back brake job, but those
aren't included in the above figures. If you can find good condition used parts from
a donor car, you can probably save quite a bit on parts, but I didn't go that route.

Putting in another Midlands would have set me back about $3500 to $4000, but
I didn't want another Midlands, and putting in the 5-speed Getrag would have been
almost as much as the 6-speed as it also needs the extra parts swapped to work.

Here's my parts list. I used all oem (MINI) brand parts from ECStuning , but there were
a couple parts that were unavailable on short notice from there or via the usual MINI
parts network via dealers. I tracked them down at a couple MINI dealerships that happened to
have one on hand with the help of Otto's MINI and a lot of phone calls.
Otherwise I would have been looking at a 4-6 wait for those parts to come from Germany.
I got the Quaife and Milltek header via Way Motor Works.
I have the "condition A" shifter so I had to swap to all the "condition B" shifter parts to
work with the appropriate cables.

 

It cost me around 1500 bucks with having a great deal from local dealer and wrecking yard. I suggest look into your lower front arm bushing since it will be out at the same time. I am I the process on replacing mine with poly bushing.

 

Finally got my MINI back yesterday. I like the feel of the Valeo clutch.
The pedal is a smidge lighter than the one for the Midlands, but it engages
smoothly and firmly. It's really easy to launch (probably because it's heavier).
It revs in neutral just a little slower with the heavier flywheel, but with the
Milltek header, I do notice more oomph near the redline and only a little bit
more volume. The exhaust note is not objectionable or buzzy at all. I already
have a Milltek cat-back.
The firmer, notchier nature of the 6-speed in shifting is noticeable compared
to the Midlands, and I have to make sure I use a firm hand in first to second
shifts especially. I like the gear ratios. I'm glad I went for the later model
Getrag that is geared a bit shorter than the earlier ones. I haven't done much to
really test the Quaife's potential, but it's certainly daily-driver friendly and
unobtrusive in normal driving. I did end up with a few extra parts and the
modified list below reflects what I did and didn't really need.

Many thanks to Swedish Motors in Marietta, PA for handling this job, especially
Eric and Ryan. It took a while but they did a thourough and excellent job.

Many thanks to Way at Way Motor Works, from whom I got the header and
Quaife and bearings, and for his sage advice and knowledge.

Many thanks to Eric at Helix, who shared his time, knowledge, and good advice.

Also many thanks to Dave at ECS Tuning. They helped me through the order of the
vast majority of the parts and answered many questions and inquiries along the way.

Also many thanks to Otto's MINI near Phila, PA - they helped me find the
couple hard to find backordered parts in other dealerships' inventories,
namely Orlando MINI and The BMW Store in Cincinnati, Oh.



Part list for Midlands to 6-speed Getrag Swap:

23007574849 (post 7/04 G50-85B6TBKE 6-speed Getrag)
22316754422 transmission mount
07119904576 x 4 bolts for above
23117527716 reverse switch *
Wire to extend reverse switch harness
12527511315 rev switch connector
31607574850KT passenger side axle
31607574852KT driver side axle
31106773005 x 2 hex nuts
31607518264 lock ring *
23117509737 transmission bowden bracket *
23117572706 x 3 screws for above *
25117548431 shift cable
25117547371 other shift cable
21516777428 output clutch slave cylinder
21526759854 clutch pipe
21526774286 other clutch pipe *
21526759855 bracket
25117542693 shifter box
25117542272 ****
25117527267 base plate
25117527282 profile gasket
25117527283 x 4 screws for above
25117527266 x 2 clips
25117527285 x 2 clips *
25117527287 x 2 seals
ECS#2016305 valeo clutch/flywheel DM conversion
ECS#2650525 powerflex transmission mount inserts (optional)
11111492244 rear crank seal (optional but recommended)
12417570488 starter
23117551719 guide tube for trans/clutch *
24007513345 cover plate fror trans. near shaft seal *
Redline D6 gear oil (2 liters)

QDF38Z Quaife differential (optional)
SKF differential bearings x 2 (if using above)

* the parts marked by an asterisk were ordered but found to be redundant.
The transmission related ones came on the reman trans kit, the two clips
came with the shifter cables, the lock ring came with the reman axle kits and
the other clutch line was not necessary.

 

I have a automatic 2002 r50 and I blew my tranny so im going to do the 6 speed swap. I found a 2006 mini S with body damage in a junk yard that i could buy. If i did would this make the swap easier ? and what parts would i still need

 

hello everyone, I search everywhere but couldn't find it anywhere that would answer my question so decided to just ask here.

r50 and r53 shift lug condition "a" have different model numbers. r50 is 25117515463 and the r53 is 25117518850. Now I read from the " fixing the weak link" pdf that the shift lugs are identical and "should" work. also I read from one of the post here that somebody had to change to condition "b" to make things work. So im a little confused with this shift lug thing.

so what is it really?


A: r50 and r53 are the same even if the model numbers are different and should work if you just buy r53 cables?

B: you have to change to condition B and change all cables to make it work.

or C: change to r53 shift lug condition A along with cables.

Please respond because at this point I think i bit more than I could chew and spending too much money already on this conversion. and my wife is about to kill me hahaha

 

Did you finish the conversion?

 

In my instance, I had to do "B" and switch all the cables to make it work. They were too short otherwise. If I remember correctly, there are a few different versions of the R53 transmissions, so depending on which version you have, you may or may not have to change the cables.

I know this isnt a DEFINITE answer to your problem, but I hope it helps!!

 

Thanks for the reply. I got a good deal with a BKD getrag. Seems like condition B is the best option since the condition b seems to be the same model number for both r50 and r53. Also the condition a cable seems to be either pit of stock or back ordered. Ill wait for more info but i dont get any answer then id have to just buy the condition b set.

 

Are you talking about the whole shiftting mechanism? If yes then you will have to utilize the cables and the cable bowden that is mounted on the transmission. The easiest way is to utilize the same cable and bowden assembly Year and Month your car manufactured but from the type S. Do not give them your bin obviously��. I hope thus answer your question

 

To everyone who has emailed me about this... I no longer have the PDF (as this was posted years ago, and I've since moved onto a newer MINI). I had send it to at least 20 people though so I'm sure its floating around somewhere.

Good news is that I still occasionally see my R50 on to road so the tranny swap/axles are still holding up!

-Amanda

 

STILL AVAILABLE HERE https://web.archive.org/web/20150404...heWeakLink.pdf

 

Hey folks,
I know this topic is old, but anyways...

Which stock airbox are you running after the Getrag6 conversion?
I've got a R50 Late 2005 (FL). My stock airbox doesn't fit any more due to the new gearbox mount.

 

I used the stock one on my '02. It is very tight but will go in. Did my swap about 4 yrs ago and love it! I now have over 210K on my Mini and she's still going strong!

Good Luck!