How To Audio/Navigation :: Front/Rear Channel Swap
Posi-Products connector kit
Robin,
Have you tried these connectors? Has anyone else? I was planning to solder, but this looks much easier. I just worry it won't be as reliable.
thanks
Have you tried these connectors? Has anyone else? I was planning to solder, but this looks much easier. I just worry it won't be as reliable.
thanks
Last edited by Jankjo; Oct 30, 2008 at 12:31 PM. Reason: punctutation
3rd Gear
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 165
Likes: 0
From: NH Seacoast
Glad it wasn't a problem in x9331 as I keep telling other's the F/R swap is easy.
You'll be doing the rears in no time!
Last edited by eurotrash01; Oct 31, 2008 at 06:07 AM.
Any pointers to the sub/amp?
I "borrowed" schatzy62's photo of the X9331 connector and added some labels. Please let me know if there are any mistakes.

Last edited by Robin Casady; Nov 2, 2008 at 04:09 PM.
My cousin brought two back from his last trip to China and he gave me one for free, but it's a no-name brand sub with a built-in amp so I'm really just using it at my own risk..
But anyways, I spliced a signal from the connector in the driver's footwell and ran a line all the way into the trunk. I have the amp hooked into the cigarette lighter right now, but I plan to run a line from the batt... soon..
The current set up has not yet blown the 20A fuse so I don't think it's much of a powerful system.
But anyways, I spliced a signal from the connector in the driver's footwell and ran a line all the way into the trunk. I have the amp hooked into the cigarette lighter right now, but I plan to run a line from the batt... soon..
The current set up has not yet blown the 20A fuse so I don't think it's much of a powerful system.
My cousin brought two back from his last trip to China and he gave me one for free, but it's a no-name brand sub with a built-in amp so I'm really just using it at my own risk..
But anyways, I spliced a signal from the connector in the driver's footwell and ran a line all the way into the trunk. I have the amp hooked into the cigarette lighter right now, but I plan to run a line from the batt... soon..
The current set up has not yet blown the 20A fuse so I don't think it's much of a powerful system.
But anyways, I spliced a signal from the connector in the driver's footwell and ran a line all the way into the trunk. I have the amp hooked into the cigarette lighter right now, but I plan to run a line from the batt... soon..
The current set up has not yet blown the 20A fuse so I don't think it's much of a powerful system.
I'm running my bass600 from the cig lighter in the boot as well. When I ran it through my current monitoring setup, I never saw peaks higher than about 12A, so the existing wiring is fine as far as I'm concerned (I'm getting rid of the cig plug adapter though and going to a powerpole connector spliced into the line -- powerpoles are used a lot in energency radio and ham radio work).
I'm running my bass600 from the cig lighter in the boot as well. When I ran it through my current monitoring setup, I never saw peaks higher than about 12A, so the existing wiring is fine as far as I'm concerned (I'm getting rid of the cig plug adapter though and going to a powerpole connector spliced into the line -- powerpoles are used a lot in energency radio and ham radio work).
And here's what my setup looks like.. Now I'm half trunk-less :(



That's almost exactly how I did my bass tube install. It works well, and can be removed very easily and quickly. I wasn't too worried about trunk space because it is so easy to remove if need be. Congrats on a very clean install! Looks good!
My first sound upgrade!
I own a 08 Clubman with basic sound. I upgraded the speakers with Infinity kappa 60.7cs (front) and 692.7i (rear). Later added a Pioneer PRS-D4100F class D ICEpower amp. With the amp now it sound great, recommended. I probably won't install a sub since the bass is ok. I was on a budget so I bought '07 versions of speakers (Crutchfield) and amp(ebay).
What I like about this amplifier is that it is a class D amplifier, has speaker input so you don't have to add a separate line converter, and when speaker inputs are used you don't need to connect the remote turn on cable. Sounds very clean. It also fits perfectly in the foam where the tools are in the trunk.
I did the channel swap, but I am considering using only the front channel and loose the fader control. I don't like the bluetooth only in the back, and I can filter the low frequencies for the front speakers in the amplifier.
Thanks again!!!
What if....
It sounds like (no pun intended) that the front/rear channel swap is a must do if
1) you are keeping the stock speakers
2) you are changing all the speakers
But what if you are only changing out the front speakers putting in the JL audio 4" and 6.5" speakers. Would it make sense to not do the channel swap and keep all of the sound in the front?
Any thoughts?
1) you are keeping the stock speakers
2) you are changing all the speakers
But what if you are only changing out the front speakers putting in the JL audio 4" and 6.5" speakers. Would it make sense to not do the channel swap and keep all of the sound in the front?
Any thoughts?
3rd Gear
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 165
Likes: 0
From: NH Seacoast
No. Still do the swap. What you'd possibly lose in bass response up front will be minimal (speakers too small to put our 35-50Hz), but what you gain in the back - even with stock 6x9s - is worth getting.
An alternative would be to just do the fronts and then push the fader control all-the-way-forward; personal experience says that that'll last you about three weeks or so, when you finally break down and replace the rears ... and do the channel swap
When I see photos of the mini with all of the stuff that has to be removed in order to just swap out the rear speakers, I grow faint
I'm just not sure I'm brave enough. I'd almost worry more about trusting some random car stereo place....
Perhaps after I do the fronts it won't seem so intimidating...
3rd Gear
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 165
Likes: 0
From: NH Seacoast
Do the channel swap. It's quick. In the unlikely event that you don't like the mod (that took you 30 minutes or so) you can swap it back in 10 minutes (because you now have learned how the puzzle pieces fit together.)
Then take a day and do the 4 fronts very very slowly and carefully. If that turns you off, don't do the rears and enjoy the great sound. It isn't too messy and you can do 1 door at a time if you are short of hours in the day, and also want to hear just how much clearer proper speakers are vs stock. If changing the fronts inspires you, go for the rears...well worth the effort for those attuned to clarity.
Honest opinion is that doing the rears looks bad in the pictures but isn't so horrible. You will have learned a ton about MINIs by doing the fronts, and you may as well put that knowledge to work. Just don't start your sound project with a 6x9 swap. Anyone doing the 6x9s looking for further guidance, more online guides, please PM me.
You definitely do not want the kid at Best Buy doing the rear project in a MINI, as he won't be conscientious and may lose a clip or 2 along the way. "Geez...sorry about that, sir. Can I interest you in a warranty package?"
Then take a day and do the 4 fronts very very slowly and carefully. If that turns you off, don't do the rears and enjoy the great sound. It isn't too messy and you can do 1 door at a time if you are short of hours in the day, and also want to hear just how much clearer proper speakers are vs stock. If changing the fronts inspires you, go for the rears...well worth the effort for those attuned to clarity.
Honest opinion is that doing the rears looks bad in the pictures but isn't so horrible. You will have learned a ton about MINIs by doing the fronts, and you may as well put that knowledge to work. Just don't start your sound project with a 6x9 swap. Anyone doing the 6x9s looking for further guidance, more online guides, please PM me.
You definitely do not want the kid at Best Buy doing the rear project in a MINI, as he won't be conscientious and may lose a clip or 2 along the way. "Geez...sorry about that, sir. Can I interest you in a warranty package?"
Last edited by eurotrash01; Nov 7, 2008 at 08:02 AM.
It sounds like (no pun intended) that the front/rear channel swap is a must do if
1) you are keeping the stock speakers
2) you are changing all the speakers
But what if you are only changing out the front speakers putting in the JL audio 4" and 6.5" speakers. Would it make sense to not do the channel swap and keep all of the sound in the front?
Any thoughts?
1) you are keeping the stock speakers
2) you are changing all the speakers
But what if you are only changing out the front speakers putting in the JL audio 4" and 6.5" speakers. Would it make sense to not do the channel swap and keep all of the sound in the front?
Any thoughts?
I did the JL's in front before I found this thread. It was still worth it to do the swap, it's pretty easy. Maybe you should do the swap first and see what you think.
Keith
Thanks Keith,
Looks like the general consensus is that the swap is worth doing regardless of other speaker changes. It is also the easiest change to make.
My car is on its way across the pond! The JL speakers are in the mail.
I can't wait!
Looks like the general consensus is that the swap is worth doing regardless of other speaker changes. It is also the easiest change to make.
My car is on its way across the pond! The JL speakers are in the mail.
I can't wait!



