H Stock Daily Driver/H-Street Build II
#102
#104
My setup is neutral enough so that I can go from mild to "Oh Sh*t" by changing the rear tire pressures.
When we run on the postage stamp circuit at New Hampshire Motor Speedway VIP Parking lot (about a 30 second course) I find that a wagging tail can be helpful.
Working the sweepers at Devens near the top of 2nd gear - not so much!
But the bottom line for me is the daily driver role, and I have no desire to be crossed up on a public road.
Cheers,
Charlie
When we run on the postage stamp circuit at New Hampshire Motor Speedway VIP Parking lot (about a 30 second course) I find that a wagging tail can be helpful.
Working the sweepers at Devens near the top of 2nd gear - not so much!
But the bottom line for me is the daily driver role, and I have no desire to be crossed up on a public road.
Cheers,
Charlie
#105
My setup is neutral enough so that I can go from mild to "Oh Sh*t" by changing the rear tire pressures.
When we run on the postage stamp circuit at New Hampshire Motor Speedway VIP Parking lot (about a 30 second course) I find that a wagging tail can be helpful.
Working the sweepers at Devens near the top of 2nd gear - not so much!
But the bottom line for me is the daily driver role, and I have no desire to be crossed up on a public road.
Cheers,
Charlie
When we run on the postage stamp circuit at New Hampshire Motor Speedway VIP Parking lot (about a 30 second course) I find that a wagging tail can be helpful.
Working the sweepers at Devens near the top of 2nd gear - not so much!
But the bottom line for me is the daily driver role, and I have no desire to be crossed up on a public road.
Cheers,
Charlie
#106
Just thought I'd throw a mini update in here:
I've got all the parts I need now, save for FCM tuned Bilsteins. Just waiting for a warm day to put everything in the car! I've been doing a lot of updating in the new journal that I made, but once events start I'll probably post in both places diligently so I can get quality responses.
I've got all the parts I need now, save for FCM tuned Bilsteins. Just waiting for a warm day to put everything in the car! I've been doing a lot of updating in the new journal that I made, but once events start I'll probably post in both places diligently so I can get quality responses.
#107
Just thought I'd throw a mini update in here:
I've got all the parts I need now, save for FCM tuned Bilsteins. Just waiting for a warm day to put everything in the car! I've been doing a lot of updating in the new journal that I made, but once events start I'll probably post in both places diligently so I can get quality responses.
I've got all the parts I need now, save for FCM tuned Bilsteins. Just waiting for a warm day to put everything in the car! I've been doing a lot of updating in the new journal that I made, but once events start I'll probably post in both places diligently so I can get quality responses.
6 degrees this morning, so not yet.
Cheers,
Charlie
#108
#110
#112
yeesh. btw, you don't have a blog or anything for ur autox endeavors do you? something like http://r56hs.com/ ?
Not much to say in winter, as my escapades in snowstorms aren't noteworthy.
Cheers,
Charlie
#113
#117
just to update this thread: i finally spoke with FCM about the setup etc., and I'm confident I'll receive the dampers on time. Everything else is about ready to go, just need to receive the dampers and throw everything together!
Full set up data here: http://r56hs.com/2014/03/04/suspension-set-up-fcm/
Full set up data here: http://r56hs.com/2014/03/04/suspension-set-up-fcm/
#118
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
Love the Fat Cat magnets
As for the springs, you say in your blog that they are progressive. The JCW springs you show have evenly spaced coils of the same diameter, I would think that makes them linear rate springs. The little change at the end gets compressed out when installed and would not count.
At any rate...looking forward to hearing about how the rest of your build goes.
As for the springs, you say in your blog that they are progressive. The JCW springs you show have evenly spaced coils of the same diameter, I would think that makes them linear rate springs. The little change at the end gets compressed out when installed and would not count.
At any rate...looking forward to hearing about how the rest of your build goes.
#119
#120
Love the Fat Cat magnets
As for the springs, you say in your blog that they are progressive. The JCW springs you show have evenly spaced coils of the same diameter, I would think that makes them linear rate springs. The little change at the end gets compressed out when installed and would not count.
At any rate...looking forward to hearing about how the rest of your build goes.
As for the springs, you say in your blog that they are progressive. The JCW springs you show have evenly spaced coils of the same diameter, I would think that makes them linear rate springs. The little change at the end gets compressed out when installed and would not count.
At any rate...looking forward to hearing about how the rest of your build goes.
As far as the springs go, you're right - I'm actually not sure. I assumed they were progressive because that's what people said, and I'm not sure if the springs with the tightly wound-ness at the end means it's progressive rather than behaving as a helper spring. It's a shame MINI doesn't just publish all this info.
I think the way he's setting up, we're just targeting a good "ratio" as far as the frequencies go - I mention in my blog, I think we're looking at 1.4hz in the front and 1.6 or so in the rear - and that's before factoring in adjusting the rear sway bar to it's stiffest settings. I believe he's also got another trick up his sleeve as far as "adjusting" goes, but not with a ****. Also have tire pressures to play with. Really though, I'm hoping the hsport comp RSB, at least on it's stiffest setting (~383% stiffer) will be "enough" - let me know what you think. I'm not fixed on anything just yet, and definitely appreciating the inputs and suggestions.
#121
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
This is what I would expect a "progressive rate" spring to look like:
http://www.waymotorworks.com/nm-engi...g-springs.html
The objective of these springs is that the coils that are more closely space will come in contact leaving the remaining, wider spaced coils to do the work, which effectively shortens the spring to make it stiffer. These generally are less desirable for racing because the springs have to compress more than linear springs in order to get their performance. This will mean more dive in braking and roll when cornering.
I can't say for sure about the MINI springs. As you said it would be nice if someone published the actual spring rates for their MINI springs.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/nm-engi...g-springs.html
The objective of these springs is that the coils that are more closely space will come in contact leaving the remaining, wider spaced coils to do the work, which effectively shortens the spring to make it stiffer. These generally are less desirable for racing because the springs have to compress more than linear springs in order to get their performance. This will mean more dive in braking and roll when cornering.
I can't say for sure about the MINI springs. As you said it would be nice if someone published the actual spring rates for their MINI springs.
#122
The bar is only useful up to a point, then it mostly just adds snap oversteer (that said, mine is on full stiff). The extra compression in the rear shocks slows everything down (you are fighting both the spring and the shock) and will give you a smooth, relatively predictable, trail brake looseness that can be exploited. Ask Honda93, he was skeptical on the double adjustable rears til he drove my car.
You can do the math all day (and I do at my day job), but you need to really do things "wrong" on these cars to get them to work. I was going to add even more rear compression after last year, but decided to keep it where its at due to the street tires. Really, the car still isn't loose enough. Drive a ST civic and you'll realize what its supposed to be like. One last note, a car that works well on your local asphalt may need ever more compression for grippy Nebraska concrete. Adjustability matters. No surface is identical.
You can do the math all day (and I do at my day job), but you need to really do things "wrong" on these cars to get them to work. I was going to add even more rear compression after last year, but decided to keep it where its at due to the street tires. Really, the car still isn't loose enough. Drive a ST civic and you'll realize what its supposed to be like. One last note, a car that works well on your local asphalt may need ever more compression for grippy Nebraska concrete. Adjustability matters. No surface is identical.
#123
This is what I would expect a "progressive rate" spring to look like:
http://www.waymotorworks.com/nm-engi...g-springs.html
The objective of these springs is that the coils that are more closely space will come in contact leaving the remaining, wider spaced coils to do the work, which effectively shortens the spring to make it stiffer. These generally are less desirable for racing because the springs have to compress more than linear springs in order to get their performance. This will mean more dive in braking and roll when cornering.
I can't say for sure about the MINI springs. As you said it would be nice if someone published the actual spring rates for their MINI springs.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/nm-engi...g-springs.html
The objective of these springs is that the coils that are more closely space will come in contact leaving the remaining, wider spaced coils to do the work, which effectively shortens the spring to make it stiffer. These generally are less desirable for racing because the springs have to compress more than linear springs in order to get their performance. This will mean more dive in braking and roll when cornering.
I can't say for sure about the MINI springs. As you said it would be nice if someone published the actual spring rates for their MINI springs.
The bar is only useful up to a point, then it mostly just adds snap oversteer (that said, mine is on full stiff). The extra compression in the rear shocks slows everything down (you are fighting both the spring and the shock) and will give you a smooth, relatively predictable, trail brake looseness that can be exploited. Ask Honda93, he was skeptical on the double adjustable rears til he drove my car.
You can do the math all day (and I do at my day job), but you need to really do things "wrong" on these cars to get them to work. I was going to add even more rear compression after last year, but decided to keep it where its at due to the street tires. Really, the car still isn't loose enough. Drive a ST civic and you'll realize what its supposed to be like. One last note, a car that works well on your local asphalt may need ever more compression for grippy Nebraska concrete. Adjustability matters. No surface is identical.
You can do the math all day (and I do at my day job), but you need to really do things "wrong" on these cars to get them to work. I was going to add even more rear compression after last year, but decided to keep it where its at due to the street tires. Really, the car still isn't loose enough. Drive a ST civic and you'll realize what its supposed to be like. One last note, a car that works well on your local asphalt may need ever more compression for grippy Nebraska concrete. Adjustability matters. No surface is identical.
#124
The mini will never be that, but that is the goal. Just the bar and tire pressures will not get the car to rotate on concrete.
#125