Well either I'm a genius or a nitwit - no middle ground. We shall see.

Having spent years in STX I must admit that being an underdog can wear you down.

And having created in the original Gollum a bit of a street weapon, I must admit that's sometimes quite a temptation.

Enter Gollum II - all the handling at 100 less horsepower!

So into H Stock, almost a Cooper spec class, and let's have a go at the driver. Let 2013 be that, and driving a momentum car, and getting the lines right!

And let's draw deeply on that black sticky HoHo crack pipe, and spend silly sums on shocks!

And let us speak no ill of the original Gollum, who will find a good home and tempt someone else to indiscretions....

Thus beginneth the sequel - with the signature on a P&S, and a build number.

A British Racing Green Cooper with nothing on it but the DTC and Sport Suspension. Hold the mustard, the catsup, the leather, the chrome, the bling and the blang. Add as much lightness as possible, and tighten all the bolts carefully on those old school 15" holies.

Arrival in mid-October, which will give me all winter to plot, plan, and secure those special pre-frammulated ammulite unobtainum parts that are the fractional competitive edge in a SCCA Stock class.

Cheers,

Charlie

 

So aside from adding power (we'll see about the CAI and the cat-back) there is only adding lightness.

PC680 battery - drops about 20 pounds
Wheels - I'll be an optimist and assume 30 pounds
Exhaust - I bet I can get 20 pounds here...

Hmm... so 70 is the target, and anything beyond that is gravy.

I bet I can get an honest baseline from Turners, before any changes happen. That's where the exhaust, CAI, shocks, and TSB based alignment must occur.

If I drop ship the battery and wheels, then I could get an actual "after" number, but I'd need the Hoosiers and all - full racing kit. We shall see.

And then we have the magic... the shocks.

Even I am not crazy (or wealthy) enough to go Penske. And too be brutally honest I am pretty green as a development driver, which makes me cautious about having too many adjustments before me.

I like Koni, but I also read this wise gentleman, and so I am cautious.

In that cautious state, the first decision seems to be "shallow end versus deep end" with the FSD dampers in the shallow end.

If I turn towards the FSD I expect a good compromise solution (Gollum II is ALSO a daily driver) with good turn in and fairly stiff low speed damping. I haven't tried them, so that may be utterly wrong!

If I take the other course, and look at SA and DA struts, then I have to be a development driver, and determine what the rebound (and perhaps compression) settings should be under various conditions.

So here's the thing!

Anyone wanna kick me towards the short path, by recommending the FSD approach? Anyone running FSD and also autocrossing their car?

I do not want to make a mistake, but the overall theme of 2013 is learning to be a better driver - with a better plan, good lines, and clean. If FSD shocks are good enough, then that will avoid any distractions.

Know what I mean?

Whattayathink?

Cheers,

Charlie

 

I've also been thinking about shocks for my HS (RTF) car.

I'm leaning towards SA koni yellows, due to having some adjustablility (as opposed to the FSD's). I've also been pondering getting a set of koni yellows converted to DA. I'm not sure what they run price wise yet, but I'm guessing somewhere in the neighborhood of 2x the OTS yellows. Being able to adjust compression would obviously provide another tuning tool, but after talking to some folks about it...I'm not so sure that the benefit is worth the extra cost (to me). A point one really good local autocrosser made is that the rear sway bar allowance lessens the advantage of having compression adjustable shocks where you can stiffen up the rear compression to effectively increase the weight transfer to the rear on turn-in. Now a larger rear sway bar can do that for you.

I've enjoyed reading Dennis Grant's website. It has given me bad thoughts about taking a set of bilstein sports and converting them to adjustables with an external reservoir. Would certainly be a fun project, but not sure exactly what it would ultimately cost.

Regarding weight, I actually added weight to the car with aftermarket wheels and auto-x tires. Granted, I went from oem 15's to aftermarket 16x6.5's w/ full tread star specs. If you're going to be running hoosiers, those are quite a bit lighter than street tires - and the TRM wheels I'm running aren't the lightest options either. I was impressed by the lightness of the oem wheel/tire combo....if you are going to run street tires, I'd be surprised if you can drop 30lbs there. The OEM mini battery looks to be pretty small already. Hard to believe there is 20 lbs to be dropped there, but maybe I'm wrong. I'd be interested in seeing the differences then the new parts show up.

You mention a CAI, is that an oem piece that is factory installed?

Are you planning to run the JCW suspension? I'll be upgrading to the sports suspension soon (still waiting on the front bar). I caliper'd the springs and compared to the base ones. Looking at diameter alone, the rears are 12-13% stiffer and the fronts are around 18%. That assumes the mean coil diameter and number of active coils are the same. I'd be interested to see how the JCW springs compare in terms of free length and wire diameter. Most accounts seem to indicate they lower the car about 0.5". Not huge, but should help some, especially if the rates are higher yet. I may decide to go JCW if I'm desperate for a couple more tenths.

Have you decided on a rear sway bar yet?

Also, if you plan on running street tires, I'd recommend holding of purchasing any until early next year. Rumor has it there will be a few new products coming out in the near future (dunlop ZII, bstone RE-11A, kumho v720, and possibly others).

 

Well howdy there! We seem to be on parallel tracks, and I thank you for sharing.

I'm just starting to do the serious homework on this build, and will share weights and such as the data appears.

One thing I do know is that I'll be running the stickies, not street tires. I spend a couple of years on the Hoosiers in '05 and '06 and still remember all the first run spins on cold rear tires. That notwithstanding I look forward to the benefits.

The shocks are a tough call aren't they. That'll take a fair bit of thought.

I'm not doing the JCW suspension, but using the Sport suspension instead.

I've found some wheels that claim to be less than 13 lbs, and of course the PC680 is a one handed lift where the stock battery in my R53 was definitely two handed!

Thanks for reminding me to keep reading the rules - that CAI is STX not H Stock huh...

All guesses and predictions will ultimately be replaced by measurements and experience as I go down this road.

If's fun to be starting a new journey in any event, so I'm looking forward to the discovery process.

Cheers,

Charlie

 

Welcome to HS! We've been on a bit of a downswing so its nice to see some new blood and builds.

I too came to HS to learn to drive. You pay for every little mistake in this car, 2 mph difference coming out of a corner is an eternity of lost time. Definitely will teach you to hit your lines and to get back on the gas ASAP.

A few comments:
You guys are already putting yourselves in a hole not getting the JCW stuff right away. You will be giving up time. These things transition better than a lot of SP cars on it. It really is an advantage in a slalom.

I'd go straight to at least the yellows as well. If the FSD's had anything to offer, people would be running them. While Dennis' website is a bit disheartening, do you really think the cheaper shocks from the same company will somehow be better? Just like with the JCW stuff, don't give yourself an excuse if you are focusing on the driver. The "oh if I only had xxxx part" is a trap and will make you lose focus on the biggest HS variable: you. I haven't touched the adjustment on my SA Konis since early this season.

Keep your eyes open for a set of SSR's in the winter, usually at least one set pops up. The TRM's are pretty good for the price. If you go 15" instead, I'm not sure anything beats the OEM holeys.

Everyone seems to have gone to the big rear bar with the JCW, which is the opposite setup that was run before with itty bitty front bars.

I'm not a car setup expert, so take everything with a grain of salt. The car did manage 4th at nationals this year (without me driving ) but it was well behind the leaders. Definitely considering DAs this winter... or an Evo School in the spring.

 

Your battery idea - not HS legal
wheels - 11lb SSR comps are about as light as it gets in 16" (and I happen to know where there's a set that might be had at a fair price). Or I've got some TRM wheels that will work great too...
exhaust - WAAAAYYYYY off base here...the rear section from the axle back is about 10lbs with muffler. The new exhaust is not like the R50 or R53. So expect to loose maybe 5-10lb max here.


The car I drove (low option 2011 like yours) was 2380 I believe in 2011. I was as light or lighter than the others in class I believe...but we were all within 10-15lbs.


If you're gonna run stock you need to read the rules...or you're going to end up in STF. BUT for what it's worth the mini in STF is as much or more fun I found

 

ROTFLMAO.

I will read the rules VERY carefully - obviously I was on autopilot with that post.

Thanks gentlemen - very kindly.

I do reckon this will make a better driver of me - or at least give me the opportunity to improve.

Evo schools are ALWAYS smart money, and I will find another one early next year.

PM on those rims too..

Cheers,

Charlie

 

Well - there's a VIN, and "Scheduled for Production"... I reckon that's progress. My stepfather has generously agreed to let me tool around in his Fairlane hotrod for a few weeks, with a nice 351 Cleveland out front. Not exactly an agile car, but a lovely burble from the split exhausts - and it is a convertible!

Cheers,

Charlie

 

And I've broken out all the relevant sections of the SCCA rulebook, and ruminated thereon.

Thus the 2,000th post and the beginning of the 2nd chapter.

Cheers,

Charlie

 

Hmm... that was a pretty long wait. Long enough for a nice lady to back into my loaner Ford Galaxy, producing no end of complications.

But I have a date, so next Wednesday I'll meet the successor, go for a joy ride, and then park him in the garage.

And get up Thursday and go to the Grand Prix.

Which is about the only thing I'd cheerfully depart for under those circumstances.

Charlie

 

Well oops. Missed it by a day. Ah well, Monday then.

In the mean time I did pick up a GoPro, as if I'm to really work on my driving I guess I have to look at it.

Cheers,

Charlie

 

Charlie - just found your post. Very interested in reading about your adventures. You asked about the FSDs for autocross - I tried them without success. Had them on my 07S. They seemed soft and confused. This year I ran pure stock sports suspension and it was much better. If I was to change shocks, I would go even stiffer than the sports suspension shocks. BTY don't forget the "free" and allowed camber change.

Let us know how it goes.

 

Thanks Eddie - looks like I'll go with the DA shocks. I've a good friend at the dealer who happens to be an expert with the alignment machine, so I'll beg a favor and ask him to pull the pins and see how much camber he can find.

Cheers,

Charlie

 

DA shock? not familiar with that term.

You can expect to get about -0.3 deg more for about -0.6 deg total. The car really likes that change. It is something that you can do yourself. The plastic pin comes out easily with a pair of pliers. Just jack the car up, loosen the 3 nuts on the top of the strut tower and push the strut inward as far as it will go. Then reset the toe-in by screwing in the tie rod by a half turn. Of course if you can get it done for free...go for it.

Also, if I remember right, stock class allows for 1/4" less off set on the wheels. The holies are great for light weight, but the offset is 48 mm and the MINI really likes that to be less (I run 38 mm; I do autoX for fun, so I don't care about the class I am in). A 5 mm (~0.2 inch) spacer plate will help.

 

And thanks again! I greatly appreciate your helpfulness.

The DA is (I think, never having owned a set) the double adjustable Koni, with separate compression and rebound settings. Yet another acronym.

I like your idea of paying attention to the offset, and I do reckon that the maximum legal track width would be a good idea. I ran 38mm Kosei on the previous car which worked well.

Cheers,

Charlie

 

Sounds good.

 

Charlie after 15 years in ASP, AP, and D mod Lotus Elans I started my MINI phase with what you've got coming right down to the color except I couldn't get a set of holies so I went aftermarket with Star Specs on 16" rotas. My plan was to see how it went before spending money on an alignment, custom-valved Koni yellows, bigger bar, never ending slippery slope, etc. I ended up doing nothing to the car as I won the paxed street tire class over some pretty amazing drivers whose fully prepped cars didn't work all that well on street tires.

Your car is going to handle beautifully with a set of 205/50-15 XS's, Star Specs, AD08s, or RE11s on those 12lb. holies with nothing to adjust but tire pressure (49 front, 44-45 rear for me). Mine is a pure joy to drive and that helped me get competitive again. Why not give it a try before beginning "THE BUILD?"

Unless, of course, your do-or-die goal is to be the national H stock champion in 2013.

 

Have to agree - try the car before changing things. I found the sports suspension to be really good in its own right. If you really "must" change something, make simple changes like the wheel spacers and/or the free camber change. The half turn on each tie rod just sets the toe in back to stock.

 

How about a 5lb battery?
https://p10.secure.hostingprod.com/@...products_id=81

 

Hmmmm....$1000
That would be real dedication to the sport...

 

That wouldn't be legal in stock would it?

 

Hmmm... Although "Stock" class is hardly stock anymore, I don't believe the battery falls within the rules.

 

Thanks for the posts gents. I am aiming to run as hard as I can in 2013, and do intend a pretty serious build. I'll be running the Pro class at NER, which is the training ground for National efforts where those folks that will go to Lincoln run head to head using PAX across classes.

Even if I were not, the H Stock class at NER has a very capable incumbent champion (and one of our regular course designers). I am of course assuming that Matt Murray does not return to the class, having taken the National jacket a few years ago.

So I am aiming for the big dogs.

I had a funny chat with Marco at Turners, where I was discussing the various options and he asked me what the mileage on the car was. 112 I answered. He then said did I want him to go through all the bushings and such and I was nonplussed. After a moment I said "112 Marco, not 112,000". Oh! he replied...


Cheers,

Charlie

 

Pick it up finally!? Lets see some pics!

 

Charlie,
Go big, go strong...Hope it all works for you. Choice of parts is going to be important. I've about said all I know about parts. I will be interested in hearing about your choices. As for tires, I'm buying used, so what do I know. Again, waiting to hear what you opt for (ok, Hoosier daddy...but is that really the best?).

One thing that you will need is data acquisition. Cheap route is an iPhone with Harry's lap timer or jump up to TraqMate. With Harry's you will need an external antenna; the best is Dual XGPS 150. Harry's is really pretty good and gives a lot of data. TraqMate is better.