Pros & Cons of JB+ vs. NM DME tune on GP
#3
#4
The JB+ moves you to a different section of the stock boost curve. An ECU tune allows a more comprehensive adjustment of all variables involved.
The JB+ requires you to up the octane via more expensive gas, E85 or meth/water injection to allow you to 'turn it up' and access higher psi levels (and corresponding timing/fueling) but they are still the 'stock' maps.
A custom tune can allow an 'E85' map, for example, with more aggressive timing, up to the limits of the fuel system, etc. The JB+ seems to just let you 'up the boost' with stock timing/fuel maps.
The JB+ requires you to up the octane via more expensive gas, E85 or meth/water injection to allow you to 'turn it up' and access higher psi levels (and corresponding timing/fueling) but they are still the 'stock' maps.
A custom tune can allow an 'E85' map, for example, with more aggressive timing, up to the limits of the fuel system, etc. The JB+ seems to just let you 'up the boost' with stock timing/fuel maps.
Last edited by yesti; 12-19-2013 at 05:44 PM.
#6
More comparison:
The JB+ is removable without a trace. An ECU flash requires the hardware be removed, benched, and reinstalled. Voids any remaining warranty if discovered but can be undone if bench flashed again.
The ECU flashes are $500+ and your car will not run while its not installed. JB+ is $300, installs in seconds and gives you almost as much power (edit: as a stage 1 NM tune) with upgrade path to JB4 when that comes out.
As an aside, the Renntech ECU flash has two maps switched by the sport button, pretty slick, but costs a cool grand. Not possible with JB+ as it only affects one sensor.
Bang for the buck it is very hard to beat JB+, but an ECU flash with dyno time would theoretically give you maximum results.
The JB+ is removable without a trace. An ECU flash requires the hardware be removed, benched, and reinstalled. Voids any remaining warranty if discovered but can be undone if bench flashed again.
The ECU flashes are $500+ and your car will not run while its not installed. JB+ is $300, installs in seconds and gives you almost as much power (edit: as a stage 1 NM tune) with upgrade path to JB4 when that comes out.
As an aside, the Renntech ECU flash has two maps switched by the sport button, pretty slick, but costs a cool grand. Not possible with JB+ as it only affects one sensor.
Bang for the buck it is very hard to beat JB+, but an ECU flash with dyno time would theoretically give you maximum results.
Last edited by yesti; 12-19-2013 at 05:43 PM.
#7
[JB+ is $300, installs in seconds and gives you almost as much power[/QUOTE]
Really, you don't seriously believe that do you. If so why bother with the JB4. The rest of your post is null and void depending on weather it's an N14 or an N18. You've got to ask yourself if you can spend $300 on a piggyback that's as good as a fully developed ECU tune why would anyone spend the extra dollars on anything else ?
As you stated the JB+ is for people who want something without voiding their warranty that's it. I've got no problem with that and can understand why considering past issues with Reliability.
Really, you don't seriously believe that do you. If so why bother with the JB4. The rest of your post is null and void depending on weather it's an N14 or an N18. You've got to ask yourself if you can spend $300 on a piggyback that's as good as a fully developed ECU tune why would anyone spend the extra dollars on anything else ?
As you stated the JB+ is for people who want something without voiding their warranty that's it. I've got no problem with that and can understand why considering past issues with Reliability.
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#10
#12
Yeah me too. I've seen some pics of the actual ecu protective case with huge chunks missing out of it from these tuners prying them open and busting the clips to hell. Makes me a bit hesitant too.
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#13
So basically I am hearing that the JB+ tricks the ECU into thinking it is too lean or rich? Then the ECU does it's job to compensate to allowing the current mixture increase or decrease while adjusting timing etc? This is why higher octane full is needed to keep it from knocking?
Sounds like a ECU mod may be more beneficial for a GP that will be mostly used for track use and a JB+ more for everyday use for the guy or girl that wants the ability for a little more power with no warranty issues?
Sounds like a ECU mod may be more beneficial for a GP that will be mostly used for track use and a JB+ more for everyday use for the guy or girl that wants the ability for a little more power with no warranty issues?
#14
So basically I am hearing that the JB+ tricks the ECU into thinking it is too lean or rich? Then the ECU does it's job to compensate to allowing the current mixture increase or decrease while adjusting timing etc? This is why higher octane full is needed to keep it from knocking? Sounds like a ECU mod may be more beneficial for a GP that will be mostly used for track use and a JB+ more for everyday use for the guy or girl that wants the ability for a little more power with no warranty issues?
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#15
My little GP is a beast. Need stickier tires
Mario
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__________________
2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
#16
I'm that guy!! Now with my second cat removed I'm pretty sure 250whp and 270wtq is were I'm at I want to change the plugs to one colder, but not having luck. Factory plugs are from France and I can't seem to cross reference them. My little GP is a beast. Need stickier tires Mario Sent from my iPhone Office
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#17
I'm that guy!! Now with my second cat removed I'm pretty sure 250whp and 270wtq is were I'm at I want to change the plugs to one colder, but not having luck. Factory plugs are from France and I can't seem to cross reference them. My little GP is a beast. Need stickier tires Mario Sent from my iPhone Office
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#18
I'm that guy!! Now with my second cat removed I'm pretty sure 250whp and 270wtq is were I'm at I want to change the plugs to one colder, but not having luck. Factory plugs are from France and I can't seem to cross reference them. My little GP is a beast. Need stickier tires Mario Sent from my iPhone Office
#19
#20
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__________________
2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
#21
#22
I'm that guy!! Now with my second cat removed I'm pretty sure 250whp and 270wtq is were I'm at I want to change the plugs to one colder, but not having luck. Factory plugs are from France and I can't seem to cross reference them. My little GP is a beast. Need stickier tires Mario Sent from my iPhone Office
#23
Really, you don't seriously believe that do you. If so why bother with the JB4. The rest of your post is null and void depending on weather it's an N14 or an N18. You've got to ask yourself if you can spend $300 on a piggyback that's as good as a fully developed ECU tune why would anyone spend the extra dollars on anything else ?
As you stated the JB+ is for people who want something without voiding their warranty that's it. I've got no problem with that and can understand why considering past issues with Reliability.
As you stated the JB+ is for people who want something without voiding their warranty that's it. I've got no problem with that and can understand why considering past issues with Reliability.
The JB4 is a different animal completely with more sensors affected at the very least. Plus we are still dealing with the limitations of the engine in terms of fueling and detonation. The GP2's making 250whp with the JB+ are using E85 (Mariokart) or meth injection to curb detonation.
If the OP is driving a N14 then they are wasting their time with this thread since the JB+ is only for N18 engines. (checking) Nope, 2013 GP2 with N18 engine.
I didn't say the JB+ was as good as a fully developed ECU tune, in fact I listed some limitations of it in my last posts I believe.
Any tune can have problems. Even the stock tune can blow your engine if you drive like an idiot. It bangs along the knock threshold at relatively lean A/F ratios, even on boost, only going a little rich at WOT to keep from melting down.
Back on topic, taking from the NM website:
The NM tune can adjust for different octane levels (91+), the JB+ requires you to open it and adjust a pot (92 octane for default 50% setting, 97 for 100% setting).
The NM tune adjusts the throttle mapping, the JB+ does not affect stock mapping.
Last edited by yesti; 12-19-2013 at 05:47 PM.
#25
I bought the GP mostly as a track car, so this question is to the JB+ users, but any comments from other tunes is appreciated. Do you guys run your cars on the track regularly? I am looking at this as I want the best/safest unit for 20 minutes of continual thrashing for 4 to 5 times a day. Not just an occasion blast down an on ramp or a dyno day pull. I would like to put together a good package of dependable extra power. One that I can finish the day, drive it home and not worry about it. I know this is possible in an R53, but this is first step into the R56 area and don't want to be the guy at the track always with the hood up between sessions trying to track down the latest problem. I want the driver to be the weak link not the car. So anyone have any experience in that area? Thanks.