GP1 with autocross/track-day mods ?
#26
I'd echo what others have said about what car to start with, but you also have to consider what class you want to be in. If you want to win, A GP1 might not be the best choice. I haven't looked for a couple of years, but last time I checked, the GP was in Street Prepared. If that's the case, the GP is going to get smoked.
If you're looking to compete in a specific class, I'd strongly suggest doing some reading through the SCCA rule book.
#27
1. I believe that all MINI Clubsport kits come with camber plates (of which there is only 1 version). I would confirm with your suspension vendor though. I have a set in the shop right now for Impreza and the top mounts are pretty good pieces.
2. I think the cabrio brace, a front strut bar, and either the WMW X-brace or a trapezoid brace are all that's needed (plus the half cage). I would stick with the 19mm rear bar but I'm not as much as an oversteer junkie as some and also I have a decent alignment unlike most. The 22mm still might work better for you. Either way, it's basically the last piece of the puzzle and pretty straightforward to figure out. My 19mm Eibach bar was under 100 bucks new and it's great.
- Andy
2. I think the cabrio brace, a front strut bar, and either the WMW X-brace or a trapezoid brace are all that's needed (plus the half cage). I would stick with the 19mm rear bar but I'm not as much as an oversteer junkie as some and also I have a decent alignment unlike most. The 22mm still might work better for you. Either way, it's basically the last piece of the puzzle and pretty straightforward to figure out. My 19mm Eibach bar was under 100 bucks new and it's great.
- Andy
AJ
#28
Gp#1489
Its been a while, but I didn't want to let this thread die without a happy conclusion... so I picked up GP1 #1489 this past weekend in CT from a nice guy named Stan.
Its a very clean, 33K mile bone stock example - well except for a radio head unit swap for bluetooth capable(have OEM), all important stainless screw kit, and installed Mini JCW 17's(have OEM set in near new condition including tires).
Its really a great drive, reminds me of the 1st gen M3 that I drove several times in its feeling of being an honest, purposeful sports car that provides great feedback to what's going on. Yet quicker to respond to inputs. This is exactly what I was expecting from it, so I'm quite happy with myself. Good power vs the MCS too! So, I will certainly be conscientious of all this as I go down the mod path towards 'sharpening' these virtues (initial orders for maintenance, performance, and some non essential items have already been placed).
Unfortunately, the concerns I expressed early in this thread regarding limited time to build a car are unfortunately proving very real for me these days....so this is likely going to be a long slow process (I will be doing any work myself as I've always done with my toy cars).
Thanks to both NC Trackrat and Way @ WMW for providing critical specific insight that allowed me to develop a fairly clear plan in my head of what I want to do - despite their not being fully onboard with the logic of it. But at this point in my car playing 'career' I think I can be comfortable in trusting that I know what I like and I fully believe this is the right car for me to play with now (in garage/on road/at autox's/and ultimately at track day events).
AJ
Its a very clean, 33K mile bone stock example - well except for a radio head unit swap for bluetooth capable(have OEM), all important stainless screw kit, and installed Mini JCW 17's(have OEM set in near new condition including tires).
Its really a great drive, reminds me of the 1st gen M3 that I drove several times in its feeling of being an honest, purposeful sports car that provides great feedback to what's going on. Yet quicker to respond to inputs. This is exactly what I was expecting from it, so I'm quite happy with myself. Good power vs the MCS too! So, I will certainly be conscientious of all this as I go down the mod path towards 'sharpening' these virtues (initial orders for maintenance, performance, and some non essential items have already been placed).
Unfortunately, the concerns I expressed early in this thread regarding limited time to build a car are unfortunately proving very real for me these days....so this is likely going to be a long slow process (I will be doing any work myself as I've always done with my toy cars).
Thanks to both NC Trackrat and Way @ WMW for providing critical specific insight that allowed me to develop a fairly clear plan in my head of what I want to do - despite their not being fully onboard with the logic of it. But at this point in my car playing 'career' I think I can be comfortable in trusting that I know what I like and I fully believe this is the right car for me to play with now (in garage/on road/at autox's/and ultimately at track day events).
AJ
Last edited by _aj_; 04-23-2015 at 06:49 AM.
#29
I like that you want to start with a GP. It is different and stands out compared to other Minis. I had a modded 2003 MCS that was just as fast as the GP but the GP is unique. I Auto-X my GP just for fun at PCA and Corvette events. The GP is very competitive with just a few mods. Maybe you can find a GP with a few less mods and still have a great time.
I am still using the stock JCW springs and shocks, which actually work OK. I have adj camber plates, 19mm rear bar, cabrio braces, and lower front brace. I have the alignment adjusted to my specs. I only rarely do track days with the GP so I never installed a roll bar because I think a roll bar is not the best thing for a daily driver. I use the CG Lock on the seat belt for Auto-X with the stock seats. I do have Wilwood 13" BBK for the occasional track day and larger rear rotors.
One disadvantage with the GP is the 18" wheels. They look cool, are unique, and relatively light for 18" wheels but sticky tire options are limited. I would prefer light 17" wheels with better tires but not worth the hassle of storing an extra set of wheels/tires and swapping them out for each Auto-X since I still daily drive the car.
I am still using the stock JCW springs and shocks, which actually work OK. I have adj camber plates, 19mm rear bar, cabrio braces, and lower front brace. I have the alignment adjusted to my specs. I only rarely do track days with the GP so I never installed a roll bar because I think a roll bar is not the best thing for a daily driver. I use the CG Lock on the seat belt for Auto-X with the stock seats. I do have Wilwood 13" BBK for the occasional track day and larger rear rotors.
One disadvantage with the GP is the 18" wheels. They look cool, are unique, and relatively light for 18" wheels but sticky tire options are limited. I would prefer light 17" wheels with better tires but not worth the hassle of storing an extra set of wheels/tires and swapping them out for each Auto-X since I still daily drive the car.
#30
Seriously, thanks as I really appreciate your comments and that's mostly what I hope to get out of mine. Something with the driving qualities that matter to me, is somewhat unique, and yet still has a vast amount of mod options avail to allow me go on for a while. The fact that I don't need to be as serious as the porsche and BMW track guys is also appealing - though I'm sure some of them are nice guys.
I wont be using the 18" OEM's - I'm working thru all options there now.
#32
aj, there is a pretty modified car in Colorado (listed here), you just need to add the cage. Comes with two sets of wheels. There is also one in Detriot on Craigslist.
http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/cto/5027869344.html
sounds like is is well set up. I looked at it hard, but in the end wanted to get on with low milage and stock / not tracked. Check it out.
http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/cto/5027869344.html
sounds like is is well set up. I looked at it hard, but in the end wanted to get on with low milage and stock / not tracked. Check it out.
#33
Rob, thanks for the tip and link.
I fully expected that shortly after I pulled the trigger on GP#1489 a match to my original post would show up! (I mentioned a few posts ago that I found a car to work with - and I just edited my initial post to make that clear).
Anyhow, I am very curious so do you have that Colorado link? You posted the Detroit car link, and a quick google search didn't bring up the Colorado car.
Good luck with your continued search - or did you find?
I fully expected that shortly after I pulled the trigger on GP#1489 a match to my original post would show up! (I mentioned a few posts ago that I found a car to work with - and I just edited my initial post to make that clear).
Anyhow, I am very curious so do you have that Colorado link? You posted the Detroit car link, and a quick google search didn't bring up the Colorado car.
Good luck with your continued search - or did you find?
#34
GP in CO
AJ,
Here is the link at NAM for the GP in CO -
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-s-jcw-gp.html
Here is the link at NAM for the GP in CO -
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-s-jcw-gp.html
#35
#36
Gp1489 progress
It's been a long while since I posted here, so thought I would report my progress so far. Goal for this season was to do at least one autocross (to gain some comfort with car and because thats what I know best), followed by at least one track event. Well I had to cheat just a little to get both in…
I took my Audi S4 daily driver to a NASA trackday at LRP when I realized the GP wasn't going to be ready modwise again (and still felt important to do an autocross first). After more scrambling to finish things up, GP1489 finally made its autocross debut last weekend - and I was very happy with how that went.
Current list of attached non OEM stuff:
- Volk CE28 17x7.5 wheels (14.25lb/ea)
- Dunlop Direzza ZII Star Spec 215/40-17 tires
- Turner Motorsports wheel studs/nuts
- H&R 5mm spacers
- Tarett 23.8mm hollow/splined fully adjustable RSB with drop links
- Madness JCW air filter and ‘flap mod’
- DDM GP I/C air diverter (ss polished to not look like a kitchen appliance)
- Forge aluminum coolant tank
- RMW ‘shorty’ header with Swaintech coating
- Craven 15% pulley
- RMW tune
- BSH lower engine mount
- Vibratechnics ‘Race’ upper engine mount
- Powerflex ‘Black’ trans mount bushing
- Powerflex ‘Black’ steering rack mount
- GT mid (lower) brace
- Cabrio braces, powder coated black
- Proshift programmable shift light
- Rennline full pedal kit with custom positioned dead pedal support
- JCW/Alcantara steering wheel with radio/cruise control delete
- Alcantara covered ‘downtubes’
- ‘Auto-up’ window and DSC defeat memory circuit
- Osram Rallye 65W headlamp bulbs (x4)
Mods acquired but still in queue for installation:
- KW Clubsport coilovers with camber plates
- RMW ‘Dominator’ cam
- RMW sourced 550cc injectors
- RMW sourced oil pan baffle with ‘trap doors’
- Brake cooling duct ‘kit’
- Magnacore wires and Brisk silver plugs (didn’t realize I/C had to come off)
- Schroth 6point belts (waiting for seats and half cage)
Data acquisition stuff acquired and figured out with only a moderate amount of brain damage :
- VBox Sport with external antenna, Bluetooth
- Kiwi 3 OBD2, Bluetooth
- GoPro Hero3+Black, Wifi
- Harry’s Lap Timer on Ipodtouch5 wirelessly receiving all three above
I took my Audi S4 daily driver to a NASA trackday at LRP when I realized the GP wasn't going to be ready modwise again (and still felt important to do an autocross first). After more scrambling to finish things up, GP1489 finally made its autocross debut last weekend - and I was very happy with how that went.
Current list of attached non OEM stuff:
- Volk CE28 17x7.5 wheels (14.25lb/ea)
- Dunlop Direzza ZII Star Spec 215/40-17 tires
- Turner Motorsports wheel studs/nuts
- H&R 5mm spacers
- Tarett 23.8mm hollow/splined fully adjustable RSB with drop links
- Madness JCW air filter and ‘flap mod’
- DDM GP I/C air diverter (ss polished to not look like a kitchen appliance)
- Forge aluminum coolant tank
- RMW ‘shorty’ header with Swaintech coating
- Craven 15% pulley
- RMW tune
- BSH lower engine mount
- Vibratechnics ‘Race’ upper engine mount
- Powerflex ‘Black’ trans mount bushing
- Powerflex ‘Black’ steering rack mount
- GT mid (lower) brace
- Cabrio braces, powder coated black
- Proshift programmable shift light
- Rennline full pedal kit with custom positioned dead pedal support
- JCW/Alcantara steering wheel with radio/cruise control delete
- Alcantara covered ‘downtubes’
- ‘Auto-up’ window and DSC defeat memory circuit
- Osram Rallye 65W headlamp bulbs (x4)
Mods acquired but still in queue for installation:
- KW Clubsport coilovers with camber plates
- RMW ‘Dominator’ cam
- RMW sourced 550cc injectors
- RMW sourced oil pan baffle with ‘trap doors’
- Brake cooling duct ‘kit’
- Magnacore wires and Brisk silver plugs (didn’t realize I/C had to come off)
- Schroth 6point belts (waiting for seats and half cage)
Data acquisition stuff acquired and figured out with only a moderate amount of brain damage :
- VBox Sport with external antenna, Bluetooth
- Kiwi 3 OBD2, Bluetooth
- GoPro Hero3+Black, Wifi
- Harry’s Lap Timer on Ipodtouch5 wirelessly receiving all three above
Last edited by _aj_; 09-30-2016 at 04:56 AM. Reason: list fix
#39
Step 1: Forget about your requirement checklist and buy a stock one (or any GP1 that is available).
Step 2: within a few days, one that matches your original requirement checklist will be posted for sale - also buy this one.
Step 3: Sell the first one that needed to be bought to cause step #2 to occur.
Good luck
#40
Very funny. I've run into that situation myself several times. This time I was hoping to find a car that's already set up, but even in that case I'm likely to re-do half of the work anyway I suppose.
Nice. Pretty straightforward really based on my experience...
Step 1: Forget about your requirement checklist and buy a stock one (or any GP1 that is available).
Step 2: within a few days, one that matches your original requirement checklist will be posted for sale - also buy this one.
Step 3: Sell the first one that needed to be bought to cause step #2 to occur.
Good luck
Step 1: Forget about your requirement checklist and buy a stock one (or any GP1 that is available).
Step 2: within a few days, one that matches your original requirement checklist will be posted for sale - also buy this one.
Step 3: Sell the first one that needed to be bought to cause step #2 to occur.
Good luck
#41
100%. Even if all mods aren't your picks, you have something to play with right away (after full safety check of prior work of course) plus you may decide that much of it is fine (or good enough for now), freeing up $$ for other mods.
And I don't think buying a somewhat built car takes much of the tinkering fun away (as has been said) - though it can make sorting out problems harder.
Anyhow, I originally had the same sensible and financially responsible plan as you - that I'm not following in any way.
PS. Some of the warnings I got before buying a GP1 I am dealing with...like how to attach a gurney flap to the rear wing without potentially damaging the 'precious' OEM one, do I drill into the front bumper cover for canards (if I ever find or make a set). And getting low is slightly complicated by the already low bodywork.
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