I've done a bunch of research and searching for an answer to what filters are better than others...to no avail. I don't mean the BMW OEM kind. But even aftermarket has some crazy price diffs...I mean $25 for a Fram?!

I've found a purolator classic ($6.79) that looks like the many other paper cartridge filters around online and I've been told that it's better than the STP model that looks the same but costs $8. It's something I would hate to order online unless I was buying a bunch, since it's a waist of carbon resources to have a single filter UPS'ed!!!

I tend to swap filters halfway through the oil cycle anyway, so unless anyone tells me this is the worst POS known to man I'm thinking it's the way to go. I did find a great deal on Mobil 1 @ Wallmart $23 and change for the big jug. The only "deal" around is the only thing to drag me into that depressing place.

Thanks in advance for your opinions.

 

Just buy some oem filters on ebay

 

^+1 -Using aftermarket filters will only bring on trouble. Poorly fitting gaskets seems to be the common denominator. Even a few which have collapsed inside the housing......


Do yourself a favor and stick with the BMW filters, and some times you can find them here as well as eBay.

 

BMW/MINI filters only.......MANN/MAHLE are usually trouble free and are OEM suppliers. The filters should be available for as little as $6-8.00, (if the GP uses the same filter as a S or JCW, depending on where you look. Probably any vendor on this site that sells parts could help you out.
Problems with some of the aftermarket filters include, but have not been limited too...they sometimes deform, and colaspse in the housing, the rubber gasket that comes as a replacement for the oil housing can be undersized, leading to massive leaks, some times the filter size themselves are slightly off, or the ends don't fit quite right.....all leading to pain, heart ache, and if not caught on time, motor damage or a rebuild.
I've also heard a rumor that NAPA sells MANN/MAHLE filters for MINI's if you are in a hurry. They are sell store brand filters that fit...folks have had generly good luck, but still, on a GP, I would go OEM ONLY.

 

I've been using the WIX/NAPA Gold filter (#7303).
190,000 miles with NO issues.

Jim

 

Thanks guys...I'll try the Napa/Wix (or the Mann spec if they have 'em) which seems to be a good option and there are local Napa stores. If they don't have 'em, I have seen some bundles of the Mann filter, which would make it worth while if I'm ordering online.

 

Make sure you use the European Formula Mobil 1 -- It is the only Mobil 1 on MINIs approved List (meets BMW LL-01 or ACEA A3 standards ) The four oils on MINIs approved list are:
Castrol Syntec European Formula SAE 0W-30
Mobil 1 SAE 0W-40
Pennzoil Platinum European Formula Ultra SAE 5W-30
Valvoline SynPower SAE 5W-30

 

Make sure the filter you get has the plastic cage INSIDE the filter. I know the WIX/NAPA #7303 has it.
RedLine and Royal Purple are also good oil choices.

Jim

 

Well the first 3 are a little hard to find though Napa has the M1 euro formula, but are you saying that the readily available Valvo Syn is on the reco list and NOT a designated EU Formula? I see that juice everywhere and have used it in the past on other rides...and I can get that at Wally's for a good price.

 

Well here is where that info came from:

You need to sign in to the Owner's Lounge for this:
https://ol.miniusa.com/auth/Warranty.aspx
Quote:
The oils listed below meet MINI’s Long-life rating and are acceptable for use in MINIs in the US market with gasoline engines.

Long-life rating LL-01 Approved Synthetic Oils for the US Market
- Castrol Syntec European Formula SAE 0W-30
- Mobil 1 SAE 0W-40
- Pennzoil Platinum European Formula Ultra SAE 5W-30
- Valvoline SynPower SAE 5W-30

I buy the Castrol European in Pep Boys and is regularly on sale, and I think some O'Reillys carry it.
The Mobil 1 0w-40 can be found at Auto Zone

As far as the Valvoline or any synthetic oil, just look at the label and see if it is BMW LL-01 approved. That's the spec most other synthetics do no have.

The European designations is because in the Europe synthetics must be pure synthetics to be labeled as such, while in the USA they do not, hence most of the oils labeled synthetic are not pure synthetic in the USA.

 

Morristown MINI is selling a 3 pack on eBay for $35.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Set-o...Q5fAccessories

 

We've been selling them cheaper in 4 packs or even 6pk.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/oem-min...r-r50-r53.html

 

Okay after trips to 2 Napa stores I found exactly 1 Napa 7303 oil filter and while I was there; nabbed a 6 pack of the M1 0-40 EU formula. So I am listening to your advice gang. Napa was a bit more spendy than Pepboys: 7.29 per Qt vs 6.99, but I had forgotten whether PBY had the EU formula ...they do. W-mart doesn't have the EU M1 and I have not found any Valvoline SynPower that conforms to BMW specs...the bottles I looked at did not have it on the label.

The Napa filter does have more pleats than the Purolator so thanks for the heads up to get the Napa since it does look to be way higher quality...though freaking hard to find, even in the the San Fernando Valley of SoCal. I guess I'll just go online to get a stash for the future, too much trouble otherwise.

So the final thing was to order the 36m socket to remove the oil filter housing cap, and of course it's not the same as the housing cap in my Chevy HHR (which is a similar sized cartridge filter), but I found a great ebay deal for $10, so by the time that comes in I should be ready to finally change juice in the Garage Prince. Wow talk about having to plan ahead...this has taken 3 weeks already... don't you hate when work gets in the way of life!

One more query to the group. Since BMW specs 5w-30 for our GP's (going by engine stickers that is) what benefits would I see from the 0w-40 EU formula?...are we getting too geeky here in believing there is that much difference?

THX

 

“Get Geeky” This link was posted by Investigator a while back and explains the benefits of 0wt – xx wt oils.
Go to: http://www.focfloridaregion.com/
Then in the left side choose "Educational Articles" Then choose at top of page "Introduction to Motor Oil"
This article basically says wear happens at start-up and the lower viscosity protects best at start-up ( there's a lot more to it so you need to read it).

Then start reading the-- http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ forum

 

Most of the "euro" oils have high levels of Zinc, and this acts to help protect the valvetrain, since the zinc acts as a high preasure lubricant, and anti gualing agent. Some motors, like muscle cars with flat tappets require zinc, others, like ours, it is not known, but reccomendend by the manfacturer. The other differances is that that euro oils are tru syenthic, not dramaticaly upgraded Dino base oils, so they can have some superior charistics.
One tip, the oil drain plug if it is a replacent plug may be a 1/2, or a metric, try both, and see what fits best so you don't round it off!!

 

The FOC guy's stuff is a good read although it did leave me wondering if we need the 40 viscosity...if I'm getting what he said...no I DID NOT do his tests it raises the question: do we have the proper oil pump pressure to work with the 40 aspects? He does seem to say that 40 visc is for an older engine. At least for his Horse it seems he is using 0-30 or 20w. I do get the benefits of 0w now...it helps the critical cold start phase.

I have been thru many threads on BITOG and I was introduced to the benefits of zinc from my Pelican Parts Porsche Pals...how's that for alliteration There's a monster geek thread that my P-car buddies made me read, and so I learned about zinc levels since those beasts really seem to benefit from it.

Now here's something in common with both Ferrari and Porsche situations: at least in the case of the older vintages up to and including even the early/mid '90's, we are talking older technology, state of the art then, not so much now, even for those marques. I wonder if our GP's or plain MCS cars for that matter haven't been better designed for wider tolerance. I'll go out on a limb and say they have...let's remind ourselves that the Factory reco for oil change intervals is crazy long...I know most of us don't follow that advice, but it indicates modern BMW engineering is being followed.

 

Recently I starting using 5-40 instead of 5-30 because California is warmer. Might be a thought, especially if you are in the San Fernando Valley. The Mini manual shows both on the oil viscosity graph.

Also, did you purchase a special short 36mm socket or just a regular 36mm socket? The special shorter 36mm socket is really nice because it provides a little more room for the rachet head. I ended up cutting down a regular 36mm socket to give me more clearance.

 

I have an official BMW socket coming in and it does look very shallow.

 

Geez at least a month later the Juice is finally changed in the Garage Prince.

5 Qts Mobil 1 0w40 EU formula (just like my German frau)
1 official BMW MINI filter.

It got dark by the time I was done so i couldn't get a good impression of the old oil...it did look darker than when I change M1 in my other cars. I'll look more closely tomorrow. As many of the how-tos mention getting the oil filter cartridge lid back on is a little tricky. The real trick is to make sure you keep it a bit tipped up...towards the hood side and then it will finally catch the threads...being sure to use your hand NOT the socket. The BMW arrangement is way more difficult than my Chevy HHR cartridge housing postition, which is almost vertical and easy to access. Also my drain plug AND the cartridge were tight enough to require a breaker bar. I just got 3 BMW spec filters in the mail today so I put one of those in instead of the Napa 7303, which though reco'ed as an option does not look like it will fit properly to the bottom of the cartridge housing. The BMW filter is a nice tight fit that deforms the cloth opening and feels very secure and "correct" as it slides over the "tube"...or whatever the official term is...that is inside the housing lid. If you've seen or used this filter you know what I mean.

I'll see if Napa will take their's back....try to recoup some of the $ of this DIY. Glad this is done...the next one will be easier, as is par for the course.
I swear every time I change to fresh M1 my cars all feel faster and "slippier"...but that's probably just in my head

Once again thanks to all NAMmers that piped in here. Unlike many other car forums NAM has "real" usable info.