Forgive the stupid question, but I want to get a little setup in my garage so I can do my own oil changes, tire rotations, brakes, etc.

What do I need?

Jacks and Jack Stands?

Ramps?

How many of each (seems like 4 would be the obvious answer so the car is level when raised)?

Which ones should I get?

Also, what should I get for my basic tool kit (sockets, wrenches, etc.)?

I'm really starting from scratch here.

Thanks!!

 

I use jack stands from ReverseLogic. Also Race Ramps 2 piece wheel crips.

 

One thing you should definitely look in to are the Craftsman Max Axess socket wrenches. Not your typical sockets. Have been quite handy.

And this. Takes a lot of the work outta removing bolts and such when working around the engine and hard to reach places. I have the discontinued version of this from Skil, but this Milwaukee version seems just as versatile because you can actually swap batteries.

 

Jackstands
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-h...nds-38846.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...uty-68050.html
Jack

Walk out Harbor freight spending less then $200 with a 3 year warranty. Granted in store prices are cheaper.

This the only other deal that I think is worth it but, is not good for lowered cars.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-ton...1&blockType=G1

I have both and both are great deals.

 

I picked up a aluminum low profile " racing jack " from harbor freight 11 years ago for about $60 and it's been a great tool . I also picked up jack stands as well.

Randy

 

My car isn't lowered, so would the Sears kit do the trick for my needs? Also, do I only need two jack stands?

 

Nope, too tall to fit under your car. I bought a Sears with 2 jack stands and a creeper. Some guy got a good deal on the jack. Went to Harbor Freight.

You might be able to get away with one, it just depends on what you plan on doing, but for $10, buy a second and be safe.

 

You must be high. Like I said when I linked the Sears kit, it works on a stock height MINI. Lowered it does not work.

As for the OP I would get 4 stands just to be safe because it makes life easier and safer. Also the Harbor Freight one is good enough.

 

Na, I don't get high. My stock height MINI was still too low for the Sears I bought. As it turns out, glad I got the Harbor freight one.

This one didn't work. The jack was too high, not me.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-ton...1&blockType=G1

 

It looks like it is because you are lowered. I had NM springs once and I had to stop using my Craftsman jack. Now I use the lower profile HF jack.

 

I recommend getting jack stands that lock with a pin, not with a ratchet. The ratchet type can let go if you bump them wrong--a buddy of mine had to have facial reconstruction surgery when the ratchet-type stands dropped his car on him. And it was a lighter car than a MINI.

Ramps are useless for changing tires; the whole object when doing that is to get the weight off the tires. When the car is on ramps, the weight is still on the tires--the body of the car is simply higher off the ground.

Ratchets and metric sockets, and wrenches (I recommend combo wrenches, which have an open end wrench on one end and a box end wrench on the other for better grip) are good. A set of Torx screwdrivers or driver bits is a requirement on the R56; there are lots of Torx fasteners on the car.

A good floor jack, even if it is heavy, is a very very good thing to have. Some of the cheaper jacks are very hit-and-miss for quality.

 

BTW I asked this in another thread but, haven't gotten an answer; does anyone know where a good spot would be to jack the car up from the rear? I have limited space and can't jack the car up from both sides.

 

In the rear at least on the Roaster where all the bracing come together. That is part of the frame and I use it for jacking all the time. When I installed my sway bar there is a 5th bolt holding the subframe on over the exhaust. You'll have to check with the non convertibles. Because the instructions for the sway bar don't mention the 5th bolt. Just to the inside of the rear diffusers you can see the frame I'm talking about in the picture. Also you can see my Race Ramps they are two parts so you can bring the car up alittle at a time. If I need to remove my wheels I use the Race Ramps on one end and jack stands on the end I take the wheels off. The car is super safe to work on and easy up and down.

 

I won a set of the Maxaxxess socket wrenches and sockets and they are useful for long threaded bolts and nuts and maybe being used as a socket wrench in a pinch

My suggestion would be to watch the sales at sears and pick up a 300 piece mechanics tool set. If you check toolguyd.com he usually posts up deals for sears. I've seen the tool kit go for less than $180 when combined with coupon codes and online deals(then do store pick up)

I started out with the sears kit and I've expanded and have tons of tools now,I buy the stuff as I need it. I buy most of my tools used in garagejournal.com and have an assortment of snap on, HAZET, MAC, etc to go with my craftsman and harbor freight stuff.

If you need ratchets, go to harbor freight and get the 1/4",3/8",1/2" composite ratchets. They are the best ratchet you can buy. I've beat on them, used them as a hammer in the junkyard and they out perform my craftsman pro and snap on stuff. Plus I paid less than $30 for all 3

 

no one has mentioned 'special' tools for MINI

if you are going to be changing your own oil you need a socket for the filter can that is not in most regular socket sets - 27mm; and the oil drain is an 8mm allen so you need either an allen wrench set or allen socket

if doing brakes you'll need a T-45 torx socket to get the rotors off (and probably a breaker bar - 18" is a handy size)

rear caliper pistons must be turned while they are compressed and the proper tool can make this easier altho it CAN be done without. I use a tool. You can find a set at Harbor Freight or this one at outmotoring.com


a GEN2 MINI also needs a special socket to pull the spark plugs:
which is a Bi-Hex 12-point socket.
again outmotoring


outmotoring is ONE source ... you can find these tools at any good auto part house.

a basic torque wrench is your friend if you are going to be rotating tires. A basic beam type is reliable if you don't drop it. 'click' type are easy to use but you'll get arguments about how much you need to pay to get a reliable one. You can get one for $20 at Harbor Freight - if you do get one that will have your desired setting in the middle of the scale. Lesser t' wrenches tend to be WAY off at the ends of their scale but OK in the middle. A MINI wheel gets 120 ft lbs I think, so get a wrench that goes well past that in theory.

 

My original configuration before NMs, when I bought the Sears stuff was stock Sport suspension with about 80,000 miles on it. Jack pad would not go under the car. Just sayin'. Having owned and operated an automotive repair facility for 15 years during a previous life, my experience beats the hell out of a nights stay at a Holiday Inn.

Lowered or not, the Freight Harbor jack is the way to go IMHO.

 

The harbor freight torque wrench is rather accurate and precise. I had a Snap On digital torque wrench (miss that thing) and I checked a few harbor freight torque wrenches in the store against it and they were within their +/- torque rating