New Clutch - Which One / How Much?
New Clutch - Which One / How Much?
So, based on my findings and recent worsening symptoms, it looks like I'll be replacing the clutch in my 09 MINI Clubman S. 
The dealership just quoted me $2500 to replace the clutch, $3500 if I need a new flywheel as well.

Questions:
1) Does anyone recommend an alternative clutch to the one MINI would replace it with? If so, which one?
2) Am I really looking at a $2500-3500 bill? Or, should I be able to do this for less money?
Thanks for your help and advice on this one. I really need to learn how to do this stuff myself but wouldn't have any idea where to start.

The dealership just quoted me $2500 to replace the clutch, $3500 if I need a new flywheel as well.

Questions:
1) Does anyone recommend an alternative clutch to the one MINI would replace it with? If so, which one?
2) Am I really looking at a $2500-3500 bill? Or, should I be able to do this for less money?
Thanks for your help and advice on this one. I really need to learn how to do this stuff myself but wouldn't have any idea where to start.
Get a quote from an independent shop. I've seen some posters stating that they got it done for about 1600 with the flywheel. Swapping the clutch and flywheel seem rather daunting for a DIY but there's definitely tutorials if you're feeling up to it. I have done plenty of mods myself and work on the car often. However, when my clutch goes out , I'm paying someone :/ Unless I have an experienced mechanic to show me every step.
OS Giken seems to be the aftermarket clutch of choice. Cheaper and stronger. I'd look for an independent shop to do the work on this given MINIs labor rates.
The extended maintenance usually has to be purchased before the included maintenance plan runs out at 3 yrs/ 36k miles.
The extended maintenance usually has to be purchased before the included maintenance plan runs out at 3 yrs/ 36k miles.
OR you can just buy the parts and do it yourself, its truly not that hard.
Just do some research and anyone should be abe to figure it out. Hardest tool you need is a torque wrench and thats good to own anyway. Save yourself $2000
Just do some research and anyone should be abe to figure it out. Hardest tool you need is a torque wrench and thats good to own anyway. Save yourself $2000
I would LOVE to learn how to do this, but I feel like I would need handholding along the way...i.e., have a mechanic there to show me. I also do not have a lift, tools, etc.
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the parts cost on a clutch job is the cheap part....
the FULL day labor to do it is the killer....check for a MINI friendly independant shop....best way to save BIG $$
The OEM is the best for 90+% of folks...even modded.
the FULL day labor to do it is the killer....check for a MINI friendly independant shop....best way to save BIG $$
The OEM is the best for 90+% of folks...even modded.
Thats how I felt about my other car, but I just researched a ton, and had a buddy that has done it before (offer free Beer always helps
) help out.
I dont feel like you need a lift, I believe it makes certain aspects a lot easier.
But its always scary tearing into your own car doing something new.
back on subject, I personally believe a aftermarket product (quality product) is better than OEM. Dealer mechanics are going to tell you your wrong.....dealer mechanics are idiots and from experience generally can make issues worse.
First and only time a dealer has ever touched one of my cars happen to be the mini for the powersteering rack. After install I now have a wierd random rattling vibration I cannot find then found all the fancy blue painters tape left inside the engine bay marking things.
Do some research find a good aftermarket stockish clutch and a shop (usually one that specializes in performance based applications...no brake or muffler shops etc) to install it. Your still gonna pay some coin, but not $2500 bucks. Hell google it and youll be able to find a OEM clutch cheaper than they offered you.
) help out.I dont feel like you need a lift, I believe it makes certain aspects a lot easier.
But its always scary tearing into your own car doing something new.
back on subject, I personally believe a aftermarket product (quality product) is better than OEM. Dealer mechanics are going to tell you your wrong.....dealer mechanics are idiots and from experience generally can make issues worse.
First and only time a dealer has ever touched one of my cars happen to be the mini for the powersteering rack. After install I now have a wierd random rattling vibration I cannot find then found all the fancy blue painters tape left inside the engine bay marking things.
Do some research find a good aftermarket stockish clutch and a shop (usually one that specializes in performance based applications...no brake or muffler shops etc) to install it. Your still gonna pay some coin, but not $2500 bucks. Hell google it and youll be able to find a OEM clutch cheaper than they offered you.
I guess I was hoping to find a more "durable" clutch than OEM, if one exists.
Issue is ANY aftermarket clutch you see that CLAIMS more holding power does this with a softer, better grabbing (aka- faster wearing) clutch media..so shorter life....and a bit loss of drivability. If you have ever driven a car with a high performance clutch in traffic, you would remember it!!
Generally a harder pedal, and most are FULL ON or OFF.... generally not what most folks want on a dailydriver. THEN add shorter life.....
Only one that MIGHT fit that requirement is the OS Gilken....but a BIG +$$$.
Issue is ANY aftermarket clutch you see that CLAIMS more holding power does this with a softer, better grabbing (aka- faster wearing) clutch media..so shorter life....and a bit loss of drivability. If you have ever driven a car with a high performance clutch in traffic, you would remember it!!
Generally a harder pedal, and most are FULL ON or OFF.... generally not what most folks want on a dailydriver. THEN add shorter life.....
Issue is ANY aftermarket clutch you see that CLAIMS more holding power does this with a softer, better grabbing (aka- faster wearing) clutch media..so shorter life....and a bit loss of drivability. If you have ever driven a car with a high performance clutch in traffic, you would remember it!!
Generally a harder pedal, and most are FULL ON or OFF.... generally not what most folks want on a dailydriver. THEN add shorter life.....
Is this everything I need, parts-wise?
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...7-572-843-M262
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...-7-575-069-M38
So how many miles did you have on your Clubman when they said you needed a clutch ?
If you are looking for options, most of the time the stock clutch for replacement is good like mentioned above. I have had a MINI first gen clutch last well over 120,000 miles. It was the throw out bearing that was the problem, making noise of course.
You could go with the OEM Genuine MINI clutch kit and Flywheel in Sachs. I have replaced the guide tube on these also due to the rubbing and wear from the throw-out bearing. Also make sure you check the seal behind the guide tube and make sure there is no seepage. I have seen this in the past.
Link to your 2009 MINI Clubman S:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2009-Cooper-R55-S_Clubman-Coupe-L4_1.6L_N14B16A/Drivetrain/Clutch/
Thanks and let me know if you need anything else. I hope you can get things back together soon. When I had a clutch out with the MINI on the rack, it does make you miss your car.
If you are looking for options, most of the time the stock clutch for replacement is good like mentioned above. I have had a MINI first gen clutch last well over 120,000 miles. It was the throw out bearing that was the problem, making noise of course.
You could go with the OEM Genuine MINI clutch kit and Flywheel in Sachs. I have replaced the guide tube on these also due to the rubbing and wear from the throw-out bearing. Also make sure you check the seal behind the guide tube and make sure there is no seepage. I have seen this in the past.
Link to your 2009 MINI Clubman S:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2009-Cooper-R55-S_Clubman-Coupe-L4_1.6L_N14B16A/Drivetrain/Clutch/
Thanks and let me know if you need anything else. I hope you can get things back together soon. When I had a clutch out with the MINI on the rack, it does make you miss your car.
__________________

MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172

MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
So how many miles did you have on your Clubman when they said you needed a clutch ?
If you are looking for options, most of the time the stock clutch for replacement is good like mentioned above. I have had a MINI first gen clutch last well over 120,000 miles. It was the throw out bearing that was the problem, making noise of course.
You could go with the OEM Genuine MINI clutch kit and Flywheel in Sachs. I have replaced the guide tube on these also due to the rubbing and wear from the throw-out bearing. Also make sure you check the seal behind the guide tube and make sure there is no seepage. I have seen this in the past.
Link to your 2009 MINI Clubman S:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2009-Cooper-R55-S_Clubman-Coupe-L4_1.6L_N14B16A/Drivetrain/Clutch/
Thanks and let me know if you need anything else. I hope you can get things back together soon. When I had a clutch out with the MINI on the rack, it does make you miss your car.
If you are looking for options, most of the time the stock clutch for replacement is good like mentioned above. I have had a MINI first gen clutch last well over 120,000 miles. It was the throw out bearing that was the problem, making noise of course.
You could go with the OEM Genuine MINI clutch kit and Flywheel in Sachs. I have replaced the guide tube on these also due to the rubbing and wear from the throw-out bearing. Also make sure you check the seal behind the guide tube and make sure there is no seepage. I have seen this in the past.
Link to your 2009 MINI Clubman S:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2009-Cooper-R55-S_Clubman-Coupe-L4_1.6L_N14B16A/Drivetrain/Clutch/
Thanks and let me know if you need anything else. I hope you can get things back together soon. When I had a clutch out with the MINI on the rack, it does make you miss your car.
I know the clutch is slipping badly, but I do not know the exact cause. I'm just assuming the worst case scenario. The thing is that I don't want to waste a few hundred $$ in diagnostic fees. How do I have a shop tear down the car, tell me what's wrong, and then wait for the parts to come in? I feel like I need to have the parts in hand first. Or, am I wrong about this?
If nothing else, I need to plan the proper amount to budget for the worst case scenario.
Thank you. I'd be very happy if I could find a good shop to do this for $850. I need to call around today for some quotes.
I just had my clutch and flywheel replaced at an independent shop.
Cost-
Parts - $1200 (OEM $850 flywheel and $350 clutch)
Labor - $900
Total - $2100 + tax
I also had all the seals and the slave cylinder replaced, but thats not necessary.
Cost-
Parts - $1200 (OEM $850 flywheel and $350 clutch)
Labor - $900
Total - $2100 + tax
I also had all the seals and the slave cylinder replaced, but thats not necessary.
Last edited by Creeve; Mar 21, 2013 at 10:13 AM.
Best quote I've received so far is:
$1000 labour
$1400 parts (about $500 clutch, $900 flywheel (rounding))
This shop is willing to install parts I provide, but if there are any problems with the parts, will charge me labour again to fix vs not if problems arise with parts they provide.
I can get the clutch and flywheel for $942.30 shipped from ECS.
What would you do?
$1000 labour
$1400 parts (about $500 clutch, $900 flywheel (rounding))
This shop is willing to install parts I provide, but if there are any problems with the parts, will charge me labour again to fix vs not if problems arise with parts they provide.
I can get the clutch and flywheel for $942.30 shipped from ECS.
What would you do?
If you are getting all the parts SoundMessage, get the guide tube and the seal behind the guide tube. That way you don't take everything apart then find out you need more parts.
Link to your 2009 MINI Clubman S:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2009-Cooper-R55-S_Clubman-Coupe-L4_1.6L_N14B16A/Drivetrain/Clutch/
Link to your 2009 MINI Clubman S:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2009-Cooper-R55-S_Clubman-Coupe-L4_1.6L_N14B16A/Drivetrain/Clutch/
__________________

MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172

MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
The prices you see here should not be THAT far off from the parts cost the shops can get wholesale PLUS their "customary" markup.....
So to save maybe $100 or so on parts, you loose the warranty on the shop-work....
(Guess you could do a bit of a hybrid deal, and say you will supply the clutch+flywheel, and they do the "extras" like guide tubes, etc....)
I would ask the shop pretty bluntly if they have ever done a MINI clutch..then the year of the car (gen1 vs gen2)...the learning curve is pretty steep.
From the Price of the labor they quote, I just worry they might be thinking they will come out ahead, even if it takes a bit to 'LEARN' on your car....
Call any BMW shops?...they sometimes do a bit of MINI work....maybe get a "better quote".
So to save maybe $100 or so on parts, you loose the warranty on the shop-work....
(Guess you could do a bit of a hybrid deal, and say you will supply the clutch+flywheel, and they do the "extras" like guide tubes, etc....)
I would ask the shop pretty bluntly if they have ever done a MINI clutch..then the year of the car (gen1 vs gen2)...the learning curve is pretty steep.
From the Price of the labor they quote, I just worry they might be thinking they will come out ahead, even if it takes a bit to 'LEARN' on your car....
Call any BMW shops?...they sometimes do a bit of MINI work....maybe get a "better quote".
The prices you see here should not be THAT far off from the parts cost the shops can get wholesale PLUS their "customary" markup.....
So to save maybe $100 or so on parts, you loose the warranty on the shop-work....
(Guess you could do a bit of a hybrid deal, and say you will supply the clutch+flywheel, and they do the "extras" like guide tubes, etc....)
I would ask the shop pretty bluntly if they have ever done a MINI clutch..then the year of the car (gen1 vs gen2)...the learning curve is pretty steep.
From the Price of the labor they quote, I just worry they might be thinking they will come out ahead, even if it takes a bit to 'LEARN' on your car....
Call any BMW shops?...they sometimes do a bit of MINI work....maybe get a "better quote".
So to save maybe $100 or so on parts, you loose the warranty on the shop-work....
(Guess you could do a bit of a hybrid deal, and say you will supply the clutch+flywheel, and they do the "extras" like guide tubes, etc....)
I would ask the shop pretty bluntly if they have ever done a MINI clutch..then the year of the car (gen1 vs gen2)...the learning curve is pretty steep.
From the Price of the labor they quote, I just worry they might be thinking they will come out ahead, even if it takes a bit to 'LEARN' on your car....
Call any BMW shops?...they sometimes do a bit of MINI work....maybe get a "better quote".
The shops I called are the two independent MINI shops here in Las Vegas (although one of these shops isn't much cheaper than the dealer, sometimes). Both come consistently recommended by the local MINI club. I'll double check specifically on the clutch though. Thanks!

Labor rates vary soooo much, it is hard to guess, but it seems reasonable.
good luck, and know this one SHOULD last longer......
Somebody likely slipped it a bit in the past...either inadvertently or on purpose....or did lots of stop and go driving!!
If they are both MINI shops, I would not worry.....They have likely done a boatload!! I just wanted to be sure it was not a local "guy" who does work on cars....
Labor rates vary soooo much, it is hard to guess, but it seems reasonable.
good luck, and know this one SHOULD last longer......
Somebody likely slipped it a bit in the past...either inadvertently or on purpose....or did lots of stop and go driving!!

Labor rates vary soooo much, it is hard to guess, but it seems reasonable.
good luck, and know this one SHOULD last longer......
Somebody likely slipped it a bit in the past...either inadvertently or on purpose....or did lots of stop and go driving!!
I just had the OS Giken put in. Under $3k total for parts, labor and tax. It's a single plate, so it is noisy and not as street-friendly as the OEM, but I track the car so it is what I was looking for.
Finally should be able to pay for this repair next week. I spoke with the shop, and they agreed to order and back the Sachs flywheel for me, which saves me a couple hundred $$ over the OEM one. So, I'm getting the Valeo clutch kit, Sachs flywheel, and the guide tube/seal done for $2200, including tax, etc.







