Huh, pretty impressive.

 

BUT.... can't measure RPMs, so can't give you torque or dyno-style graphs like the G-Tech Pro and other higher-end performance computers can.... still awesome for what it is, though.

 

So, here's the rub with the iPhone. How do you mount it solidly to the Mini dash? I saw the mount the 419 boys used and that thing could hold up a bridge with cars on it... I need a reasonable alternative to fit where my GTech currently resides. Haha.

 

FYI, a 6- Speed MINI is nowhere near 20% drivetrain loss. I've seen it measured anywhere from 9-12% on the MCS 6-Speed. 23% is on an american POS with a slushbox.

Haven't used this app yet, but I saw it a few days ago and it looked interesting.

 

Mine is in a Pro-Clip adjustable holder with tilt/swivel, which I have affixed to my dash to the left of the center speedo/chrono/nav area and below the vent with 3M tape... works GREAT....

 

That is a badass S2000! I just hope that with 1300HP, sooner or later, you run better than a mid-10. With that kind of trap speed, you should see be seeing 7.90's. Yes, I know and I read the post, I'm being sarcastic.

 

It could work backwards from gear ratios and speed to calculate revs, or I think it should use the Mic and listen to the engine to work out revs.

 

Definitely could use known gear ratios if you always ran in only one gear and told it which one... but it wouldn't understand shifts... and no joy on the microphone.

 

Hey...I've seen that car before.

 

I could see how iPhone software might be able to sense shifts through the g-sensor when starting from stopped. You would need to give it all gear ratios and probably the tire's revs per mile number. Probably only work well for acceleration runs.

 

I gave this a few runs. This is a very cool application and well worth the 13 bucks.

 

Well, the accelerometers can detect shifts for sure, so I think a rev calculation might be possible. The good thing about any instrument of this kind is that it allows for comparisons over time or across vehicles, and its accuracy depends on your ability to control factors such as road, weather, driver, etc.
I like it!

 

Try this:

http://www.proclipusa.com/default.asp

 

I was hoping for an app to make my Dymo into an iPhone.

 

I'm going to do a DIY mount for the left cup holder (I don't drink and drive).

I'm starting with a 2" dia. plexiglass tube that fits into the cup holder. I've put a black plex disk 2.70" dia. on top of it to form a platform. I'll attach an Apple iPhone 3G dock to the platform and make a brace to provide more support to the iPhone. The Dock has an audio out that accepts a 3.5mm mini (not MINI) stereo plug, so a 3.5 to 3.5 cable will connect it to the AUX. The Dock also has a Dock out port for those of you with Bluetooth/USB in your MINIs. I'm going to use it with a charger kit that connects to the cigarette lighter outlet.

I'll post photos when I've finished it.

Did one run with Dynolicious just to see if it works. I had the iPhone wedged into the cup holder. The rubber tabs held it securely enough.

 

Just watched the Garage419 vid. Seems like the MINI and Dynolicious go hand in hand.

Don't have my MINI (yet), but am happier everyday I made the purchase reading this thread and seeing these videos.

Chris

 

Downloaded the program today onto my dads iPod Touch. I''ll play around with is some this weekend.

 

Have any of you tried sprinting with your i-phone to determine your horsepower (not your car's)?

 

Where would you mount it?

Made the DIY mount for the 3G. Here is the post about it:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=151152

 

I calibrated mine put weight at 2750 pounds and drivetrain loss at 11%. Did 2 runs with it and these are the average results of the two, but i just set my ipod in the cup holder and every time i shifted it would completely move around and fall over so maybe tomorrow i will do some more runs taping my ipod somewhere

 

yeah somethings not right...look at your 0-80 and 0-90 times lol...try it again with the phone mounted somehow

 

ya and maybe i will calibrate it again and try to get 5 or so runs next time... Also i did the two runs with Traction Control on... Should i turn it off next time?

 

It's probably not the calibration (although it wouldn't hurt to re-calibrate it).

Two important things to remember:

1) The device *has* to be rigidly mounted, so that it moves with the car and not on its own. If it's allowed to flop around at all, it will give inaccurate readings (usually on the low side for horsepower and acceleration figures)

2) You shouldn't have the device tilted side-to-side. The backside of the device needs to be pointing straight ahead, not left or right. It can point up or down a little bit, just not side-to-side.

 

Just follow up on this with a bit more serious question --- what kinds of readings does it get if you just shake it in your hand or let it flop around in the car during normal driving?

 

If I hold the iPhone in my hand and just shake it back and forth, I can get lateral g-forces slightly over 1g, and accelerating/braking g-forces up around 1.6g.

If you let it flop loose in a cupholder while you drive, you'll get lower-than actual g-force readings, because not all of the forces acting on the car will be transferred to the device. For example, if you accelerate briskly, the device will want to stay in one place because of inertia, so it will flop backward toward the rear of the car (in reality, the car is moving forward and the device is trying to sit still.) So even though the car is being accelerated forward, not all of that acceleration will be felt by the device, unless the device is rigidly mounted to the car.