Any Hypermilers on NAM
If you have an accurate digital boost/vacuum gauge, you will notice the reduced drag effect from any vehicle in front of you, especially a semi (intake vacuum increases indicating reduced workload required to maintain speed)...and you don't need to be right on their bumper...the vortex wake from a semi can lead back several hundred feet and beyond at highway speeds so you can follow at a safe distance and still get a significant boost in milage...
I try to be a hypermiler, and I do pretty damn well I think. On my Clubman S, I usually average about 37.5 mpg. About 75%/25% highway/city. Here's my system:
I try my hardest to get my average MPG to go up, or as I like to call it, "beating my score"
If I am successful in beating my high score, I reward myself by taking a drive on one of my favorite windy roads, and mashing on the pedal. Sure, it cancels out the outrageously good gas mileage, but it's worth it :P
I try my hardest to get my average MPG to go up, or as I like to call it, "beating my score"
If I am successful in beating my high score, I reward myself by taking a drive on one of my favorite windy roads, and mashing on the pedal. Sure, it cancels out the outrageously good gas mileage, but it's worth it :P
No disrespect but hypermiling in a Mini seems like an oxymoron...no hard acceleration OR quick turn as that scrubs off speed (without applying gas)...what do you end up with? A Chevy Aveo...
This activity only makes sense if you also purchased the Mini for its luggage capacity...
This activity only makes sense if you also purchased the Mini for its luggage capacity...
Well quite a few of us, me included, purchased the MINI for its fuel efficiency. Because of that, it's really nice to maximize its potential. That's not to say that I don't have an absolute blast with my MINI, and honestly even while driving efficiently I am still able to have fun.
I suppose it's all about finding the right balance between efficient driving and fun driving.
No matter what, driving a MINI at 5 mph is more fun than driving a Chevy Aveo at ANY speed. 'Nuff said.
I suppose it's all about finding the right balance between efficient driving and fun driving.
No matter what, driving a MINI at 5 mph is more fun than driving a Chevy Aveo at ANY speed. 'Nuff said.
2) Accelerate smoothly and coast to lights and stop signs
I have found that whenever this new engine accelerates, it uses a lot of gas. So I have found it better to just accelerate hard and get up to the cruising speed as fast as possible. I managed 47mpg doing it this way in the city (but if you can only stay in cruising speed for a few seconds, then mpg will start to go way down). The R56 engine can get over 50 mpg cruising at around 50 in 5th or 60 in 6th. And by all means cruise as much as possible because the mpg goes to 99 when you are off the throttle :D
Although I have an S, I still have found the same thing. If I lightly accelerate to get up to a 45 mph speed limit, i find myself getting a much longer period of poor gas mileage under acceleration than if I were to accelerate quickly to the speedlimit.
Get up to speed as quick as possible, then cruise. The more cruise time that you have, the higher your mileage will be.
Not as much as I normally would. The key is to just get to a speed and stay there in 6th gear and use the least amount of throttle application possible to maintain it.
I have also read that:
1. Buying gas shortly after the station gets its delivery and the tanks are full gets you better gas because as the tanks empty condensation develops inside the tanks and water gets added to the gas.
2. Buying gas early in the morning gets you more gas because as the tanks heat up during the day the gas expands and you get less gas for your money.
I have no proof of either of these. Comments?
Dean.
1. Buying gas shortly after the station gets its delivery and the tanks are full gets you better gas because as the tanks empty condensation develops inside the tanks and water gets added to the gas.
2. Buying gas early in the morning gets you more gas because as the tanks heat up during the day the gas expands and you get less gas for your money.
I have no proof of either of these. Comments?
Dean.
I m no mechanic and don't know much about cars. But drawing from pure physics and reading car manuals, the recommended tire pressure by Mini is for optimum performance and car stability. By inflating your tires to the highest psi you are increasing the risk i.e decreasing the stability of your car. It will jump around. The reason front tires are not inflated to full is to take away the load of the engine. Engine weight on over inflated tires can also cause spontaneous bursts.
#9 is again not recommended on car under warranty. You don't want to ruin your warranty just to get few extra miles. Plus Minis are good on gas. Few extra miles might not be worth the risk these 2 suggestions bring in.
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,716
Likes: 1
From: Santa Cruz County Jail
Nice Cooper S or Cooper?
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,716
Likes: 1
From: Santa Cruz County Jail
# 1 is so wrong on so many levels.
I m no mechanic and don't know much about cars. But drawing from pure physics and reading car manuals, the recommended tire pressure by Mini is for optimum performance and car stability. By inflating your tires to the highest psi you are increasing the risk i.e decreasing the stability of your car. It will jump around. The reason front tires are not inflated to full is to take away the load of the engine. Engine weight on over inflated tires can also cause spontaneous bursts.
#9 is again not recommended on car under warranty. You don't want to ruin your warranty just to get few extra miles. Plus Minis are good on gas. Few extra miles might not be worth the risk these 2 suggestions bring in.
I m no mechanic and don't know much about cars. But drawing from pure physics and reading car manuals, the recommended tire pressure by Mini is for optimum performance and car stability. By inflating your tires to the highest psi you are increasing the risk i.e decreasing the stability of your car. It will jump around. The reason front tires are not inflated to full is to take away the load of the engine. Engine weight on over inflated tires can also cause spontaneous bursts.
#9 is again not recommended on car under warranty. You don't want to ruin your warranty just to get few extra miles. Plus Minis are good on gas. Few extra miles might not be worth the risk these 2 suggestions bring in.
Last edited by howsoonisnow1985; Jul 17, 2008 at 07:29 AM.
I've heard this technique before and I agree with this.
Although I have an S, I still have found the same thing. If I lightly accelerate to get up to a 45 mph speed limit, i find myself getting a much longer period of poor gas mileage under acceleration than if I were to accelerate quickly to the speedlimit.
Get up to speed as quick as possible, then cruise. The more cruise time that you have, the higher your mileage will be.
Although I have an S, I still have found the same thing. If I lightly accelerate to get up to a 45 mph speed limit, i find myself getting a much longer period of poor gas mileage under acceleration than if I were to accelerate quickly to the speedlimit.
Get up to speed as quick as possible, then cruise. The more cruise time that you have, the higher your mileage will be.
Maybe I should repeat my hypermileing experiment, but using the 'accelerate quickly then cruise' as my rule instead of 'accelerate slowly and keep the RPMs low'.
This thread has gotten me really curious about tire pressures. I was always taught to fill tires to the pressure indicated by the vehicle manufacture. I was told that any thing much over or much under would increase wear and create instability. I am a photographer for a living and as part of my job I photograph NASCAR and IRL races and have seen how these teams manage tire pressure. I have also read on a hypermiling disuccion forum that people are recomending well over max side wall and saying they get better handeling and much better tread wear but I some how dont under stand how. Thoughts?
Find out what they're smokn and send me some...
I don't hypermile, but just curious ... thanks.
I think there is some uninformed info about hypermiling on this thread. Take a look at http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/ and read up. I'm sure there are dangerous hypermilers just like there are dangerous non-hypermilers, but responisbile hypermiling forums do not recommend dangerous practices. Like drafting too close, etc.
http://www.marketwatch.com/news/stor...C%7D&dist=hppr
http://www.marketwatch.com/news/stor...C%7D&dist=hppr
Last edited by DanQ; Jul 18, 2008 at 11:56 AM.
Overinflation wears out tires faster and results in less grip, both of which waste money and fuel in the bigger picture (you have make a trip using gas to go out and buy new tires - also made from petroleum products). Slightly higher pressure helps, but don't trade off safety or long-term costs.
Single weight oil improving performance is an absolute myth, HAS to be. 5w30 means it flows like a 5w when cold (or "the oil is thinner when cold" - which improves gas mileage and engine warm-up times) but protects like a 30W when hot (when it's operating as efficiently as it ever will) . Multi-vis oils IMPROVE mileage on startup and until the engine warms up. The only reason racers use single weight oils is that their engines work at one temperature, they're not really stopped and started as part of their intended operation, they're only raced once warmed up, and racer's don't care as much about cold engine fuel economy or emissions.
Drafting too close can cause accidents - that's premature "wear" if I ever saw it! Besides, IF your drafting causes the person you're drafting to speed or drive erratically you've wasted fuel in the bigger picture - just shifted the use from your vehicle to theirs (though I agree with the practice of "drafting" 2 seconds behind semis IF they know you're there and IF the road conditions make this a reasonable practice).
Coasting, especially while turning the engine off, is actually illegal in some states - and MUST be done with caution. If you're at a light, great - but what if someone's coming up behind you? Can you start in time? If so, great - kill the motor. If not, then don't. Remember, the engine ALSO runs the power steering and brakes on most cars - want to be coasting along without those little "options"??
Also on Coasting: On many fuel-injected cars, "coasting" in Drive or in gear means the engine computer shuts fuel OFF to the engine, letting the car's motion keep things turning until the engine reaches a certain speed... as opposed to keeping fuel running (albeit at idle speed) to idle the engine if you're out of gear.
A few things to think about as you contemplate your ever-changing driving conditions to maximize the balance of safety, cost, and fun...
now on with your day!
Single weight oil improving performance is an absolute myth, HAS to be. 5w30 means it flows like a 5w when cold (or "the oil is thinner when cold" - which improves gas mileage and engine warm-up times) but protects like a 30W when hot (when it's operating as efficiently as it ever will) . Multi-vis oils IMPROVE mileage on startup and until the engine warms up. The only reason racers use single weight oils is that their engines work at one temperature, they're not really stopped and started as part of their intended operation, they're only raced once warmed up, and racer's don't care as much about cold engine fuel economy or emissions.
Drafting too close can cause accidents - that's premature "wear" if I ever saw it! Besides, IF your drafting causes the person you're drafting to speed or drive erratically you've wasted fuel in the bigger picture - just shifted the use from your vehicle to theirs (though I agree with the practice of "drafting" 2 seconds behind semis IF they know you're there and IF the road conditions make this a reasonable practice).
Coasting, especially while turning the engine off, is actually illegal in some states - and MUST be done with caution. If you're at a light, great - but what if someone's coming up behind you? Can you start in time? If so, great - kill the motor. If not, then don't. Remember, the engine ALSO runs the power steering and brakes on most cars - want to be coasting along without those little "options"??
Also on Coasting: On many fuel-injected cars, "coasting" in Drive or in gear means the engine computer shuts fuel OFF to the engine, letting the car's motion keep things turning until the engine reaches a certain speed... as opposed to keeping fuel running (albeit at idle speed) to idle the engine if you're out of gear.
A few things to think about as you contemplate your ever-changing driving conditions to maximize the balance of safety, cost, and fun...
now on with your day!
I've found that I can get about 2 miles more per gallon just coasting a lot and planning my stop-n-gos.
I been wanting to ask this of other people hypermiling.
I do a lot of faster speeds through the hills of WV and then coast up and down them until I slow down. What I've noticed is that I tend to get a bit more agitated and frustrated when I'm caught behind a "normie" because I cannot accelerate and coast like I normally do.
I'm wondering if anyone else is experiencing the "get out of my way, you're ruining my gas mileage" feeling.
I been wanting to ask this of other people hypermiling.
I do a lot of faster speeds through the hills of WV and then coast up and down them until I slow down. What I've noticed is that I tend to get a bit more agitated and frustrated when I'm caught behind a "normie" because I cannot accelerate and coast like I normally do.
I'm wondering if anyone else is experiencing the "get out of my way, you're ruining my gas mileage" feeling.
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