Any Hypermilers on NAM
Mark
Really though, you have to take the all encompassing cost into consideration. Hypermilers focus on the cost of fuel, but don't consider the cost of tires (overinflating), starter motors (turning off and restarting the engine), and engine repair (using a non-recommended oil). Furthermore, there's the most important cost of all: Your time.
Let's say you go from 400 miles/tank on a 13 gallon fill up to 500 miles/tank on 13 gallons. That's an increase of 8.5 mpg, which you could probably expect if you followed all of those rules to the letter.
Fill up costs about $50. So you spent 12.5 cents per mile initially. Hypermiling puts that to 10 cents per mile. Difference of 2.5 cents per mile, which over the course of the additional 100 miles gained makes a savings of $2.50. Let's say you fill up 4 times a month (really puttin on those miles!) and 12 months out of the year. Your grand total savings (24,000 miles later) is.... $120.
You can calculate that out and determine if your repairs down the line are worth the savings you got from hypermiling. My big question: Is your time wasted worrying about getting every last bit out of your gasoline worth $2.50 per tank?
For me, not a chance. Hypermiling is just a status symbol, just like H2s were supposed to say something about their owners, hypermilers are just the extreme at the other end of the spectrum.
But carry on (in the right most lane please).
I'm a bit confused about this high/low A/C setting on a MINI, at least a 1st gen one. I have 1 setting, on, well 2, off. Now I know that if the fan setting is on high, that there would be more draw from the alternator, which would put more load on the engine, but I don't think it would reveal itself as a significant drop in MPG. When you switch on the recirc switch, it may sound like like it is working harder, but that is just the fan noise, not the A/C compressor.
Mark

Mark

Let's say you go from 400 miles/tank on a 13 gallon fill up to 500 miles/tank on 13 gallons. That's an increase of 8.5 mpg, which you could probably expect if you followed all of those rules to the letter.
Fill up costs about $50. So you spent 12.5 cents per mile initially. Hypermiling puts that to 10 cents per mile. Difference of 2.5 cents per mile, which over the course of the additional 100 miles gained makes a savings of $2.50. Let's say you fill up 4 times a month (really puttin on those miles!) and 12 months out of the year. Your grand total savings (24,000 miles later) is.... $120.
Fill up costs about $50. So you spent 12.5 cents per mile initially. Hypermiling puts that to 10 cents per mile. Difference of 2.5 cents per mile, which over the course of the additional 100 miles gained makes a savings of $2.50. Let's say you fill up 4 times a month (really puttin on those miles!) and 12 months out of the year. Your grand total savings (24,000 miles later) is.... $120.
Using your example, four fill-ups per month at 400 miles per tank is 1600 miles traveled per month, or 19,200 miles per year. $50 per tank at that mileage is 12.5 cents per mile, or $2,400 for the year. An improvement to 500 miles per tank yields 10 cents per mile and, using the same 19,200 miles traveled, costs $1,920 for the year. That would be a $480 savings.
Now, whether or not $480 saved over the year is significant enough for someone to alter their driving habits is up to him or her to decide.
these look like some 'dangerous' things..
coast thru stop signs.. fast corners.. drafting
i think using the cruise control would hurt mileage.. uphill .. you can feather the gas where the cruise will 'kick' it up and shift running higher revs..
mini.. = good mpg
coast thru stop signs.. fast corners.. drafting
i think using the cruise control would hurt mileage.. uphill .. you can feather the gas where the cruise will 'kick' it up and shift running higher revs..
mini.. = good mpg
NOT everyone performs these techniques the same.
For example, the real hardcore guys will DRAFT super close to any car and turn off the car at the same time.
For me, I keep my distance (18 wheelers, and large SUVs cut a lot of AIR for small cars, you don't have to be on its bumper to benefit).
Rolling through reds and turns, NOPE.
I also tend to have fun in my car, but I don't do it at every light.
For example, the real hardcore guys will DRAFT super close to any car and turn off the car at the same time.
For me, I keep my distance (18 wheelers, and large SUVs cut a lot of AIR for small cars, you don't have to be on its bumper to benefit).
Rolling through reds and turns, NOPE.
I also tend to have fun in my car, but I don't do it at every light.
I did the hypermileing thing for 1 tank of gas, just to see...
I went from an avg. of 22 MPG to about 28 MPH... a noticeable impact, but not worth the fun that I lost by driving like a little old lady for 2 weeks!
Cruise isn't always the most efficient tool. It tries to keep your SPEED constant, which isn't what you are particulally looking for. You are looking to keep your RPMs and TORQUE LOAD low. That means that you should hope to gain a bit of speed as you go down a hill by gently applying gas in preparation for the loss of speed as you go up the next hill. If you don't want to really pay attention to your economy gauge (what the guy who got 100 MPG from his Honda did), the cruise is OK... just not the best solution.
I went from an avg. of 22 MPG to about 28 MPH... a noticeable impact, but not worth the fun that I lost by driving like a little old lady for 2 weeks!
Cruise isn't always the most efficient tool. It tries to keep your SPEED constant, which isn't what you are particulally looking for. You are looking to keep your RPMs and TORQUE LOAD low. That means that you should hope to gain a bit of speed as you go down a hill by gently applying gas in preparation for the loss of speed as you go up the next hill. If you don't want to really pay attention to your economy gauge (what the guy who got 100 MPG from his Honda did), the cruise is OK... just not the best solution.
such extremes are not necessary I reckon
I just took a friend's daughter up to camp, down 128 and up Rt 3, then over 101A around Nashua to 101
I filled up on the way back just out of curiosity, and put in 6.0 gallons at 227.5 miles on the trip odometer. 37.5 mpg or thereabouts.
all I did was keep it at or under 3k on the highway, and featherfoot a bit when accelerating
no drafting, normal tire pressures, none of this stuff!
now mind you I used to get 26 mpg when I had a job! being unemployed and broke is a powerful incentive to extend the life of a tank of gas!
we'll see how well I do when the new job kicks in...
but actually, give the car has 104k miles, there's another reason not to squeeze the toothpaste tube too hard, which is my intent to hang on to it and complete this racing season AND the next one before I put any serious money into it
to each their own!
I just took a friend's daughter up to camp, down 128 and up Rt 3, then over 101A around Nashua to 101
I filled up on the way back just out of curiosity, and put in 6.0 gallons at 227.5 miles on the trip odometer. 37.5 mpg or thereabouts.
all I did was keep it at or under 3k on the highway, and featherfoot a bit when accelerating
no drafting, normal tire pressures, none of this stuff!
now mind you I used to get 26 mpg when I had a job! being unemployed and broke is a powerful incentive to extend the life of a tank of gas!
we'll see how well I do when the new job kicks in...
but actually, give the car has 104k miles, there's another reason not to squeeze the toothpaste tube too hard, which is my intent to hang on to it and complete this racing season AND the next one before I put any serious money into it
to each their own!
I'm not sure the math works out quite that way. The proper thing to do, I would think, is to hold the number of miles traveled constant, leading to fewer fill-ups and a larger savings.
Using your example, four fill-ups per month at 400 miles per tank is 1600 miles traveled per month, or 19,200 miles per year. $50 per tank at that mileage is 12.5 cents per mile, or $2,400 for the year. An improvement to 500 miles per tank yields 10 cents per mile and, using the same 19,200 miles traveled, costs $1,920 for the year. That would be a $480 savings.
Now, whether or not $480 saved over the year is significant enough for someone to alter their driving habits is up to him or her to decide.
Using your example, four fill-ups per month at 400 miles per tank is 1600 miles traveled per month, or 19,200 miles per year. $50 per tank at that mileage is 12.5 cents per mile, or $2,400 for the year. An improvement to 500 miles per tank yields 10 cents per mile and, using the same 19,200 miles traveled, costs $1,920 for the year. That would be a $480 savings.
Now, whether or not $480 saved over the year is significant enough for someone to alter their driving habits is up to him or her to decide.
In any case, $480 is still not enough to make me want to waste 19,200 miles of FUN motoring in my MINI.
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,716
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From: Santa Cruz County Jail
Hell Run
I wish I could be there I am missing the GP,, but I am driving a Budget rental Ford Focus I Washington State (Yakima, Moses Lake, Wenatchee, Bridgeport) I am in need of a fix of speed, after all this gas saving
Would be nice if it were true, where did you see this?
I have also read that:
1. Buying gas shortly after the station gets its delivery and the tanks are full gets you better gas because as the tanks empty condensation develops inside the tanks and water gets added to the gas.
2. Buying gas early in the morning gets you more gas because as the tanks heat up during the day the gas expands and you get less gas for your money.
I have no proof of either of these. Comments?
Dean.
1. Buying gas shortly after the station gets its delivery and the tanks are full gets you better gas because as the tanks empty condensation develops inside the tanks and water gets added to the gas.
2. Buying gas early in the morning gets you more gas because as the tanks heat up during the day the gas expands and you get less gas for your money.
I have no proof of either of these. Comments?
Dean.
1. Condensation would not build up in an underground tank unless the temperature underground would change dramatically.
2. Temperatures underground (where the tank is) does not change more than a couple degrees with even a major ambient air temp at ground level.. There is something around point out that California is getting hosed because a gallon of gas is measured at 67 degrees, but the ground temp in CA is 70, so they are getting a tad less gas by volume. I'll see if I can find that link.
It was in a PSA run before the movie previews in my local theatre. Check your air pressure in your tires, drive the speed limit and keep your car clean/waxed.
I spent four hours washing and waxing my 2006 MINI, that is two years old in this pic [put the new car MINI plate on the front until I get my new personalized plates
That's my story and I'm sticking with it, officer.]Had I known what that public service announcement said, I would have felt a lot better about it, knowing I would be getting a few extra MPG.
With how aerodynamically new it looks in the pic, I gotta get at least 5 extra mpg, don't you think?
No way I'm not running the AC, to even get 10 mpg extra.
While I recycle, leave all the lights off that I am not using, and conserve water, I'll gladly pay for the privilege and comfort of using my AC. Plus others suffer if I am in a foul mood due to being overheated. And I am less productive and efficient when hot.
Last week when it was blazing hot in the Bay Area, I saw some newer cars in the slow lane, with their windows open. That used to be a sign that the car's AC was broken or the car did not get it as an option [e.g. a stripped Toyota Corolla].
Those must have been hypermilers.
You have that right. I overheat easy, even though road bike about 120 miles a week. Always get hot and suffer, at about 80 degrees.
No way I'm not running the AC, to even get 10 mpg extra.
While I recycle, leave all the lights off that I am not using, and conserve water, I'll gladly pay for the privilege and comfort of using my AC. Plus others suffer if I am in a foul mood due to being overheated. And I am less productive and efficient when hot.
Last week when it was blazing hot in the Bay Area, I saw some newer cars in the slow lane, with their windows open. That used to be a sign that the car's AC was broken or the car did not get it as an option [e.g. a stripped Toyota Corolla].
Those must have been hypermilers.

No way I'm not running the AC, to even get 10 mpg extra.
While I recycle, leave all the lights off that I am not using, and conserve water, I'll gladly pay for the privilege and comfort of using my AC. Plus others suffer if I am in a foul mood due to being overheated. And I am less productive and efficient when hot.
Last week when it was blazing hot in the Bay Area, I saw some newer cars in the slow lane, with their windows open. That used to be a sign that the car's AC was broken or the car did not get it as an option [e.g. a stripped Toyota Corolla].
Those must have been hypermilers.

Per the Mythbusters:
Going less than 50mph it is more efficient to leave your windows down, but going greater than 50mph it is more efficient to use your A/C.
Driving with your windows down and the air conditioning off consumes less gas than having the windows up and the air conditioner running. This is absolutely true -- that is, when you're cruising around town.
"When you're driving across town, in stop-and-go traffic," says Frank Hampshire, director of market research with the Automotive Aftermarket Suppliers Association, or AASA, "it's more fuel efficient to drive with the air conditioning off, windows down."
Consumer Reports' auto-test department reports that the air conditioner reduces your car's fuel efficiency by up to 10 percent. So to achieve maximum fuel efficiency, motorists should avoid using the air conditioner at speeds below 40 mph and travel with their windows down, explains Gabe Shenhar, senior auto test engineer at Consumer Report's auto-test department.
"But as your speed increases to 45 mph, or highway speeds," says Jason Toews, co-founder of GasBuddy.com, "wind drag becomes an issue. Driving with the windows down increases the drag on your vehicle, resulting in decreased fuel economy by up to 10 percent. Drive at speeds over 55 mph with windows down and you'll decrease fuel economy by up to 20 percent or greater."
Shenhar and Hampshire agree: It's all in your speed.
"When you're driving across town, in stop-and-go traffic," says Frank Hampshire, director of market research with the Automotive Aftermarket Suppliers Association, or AASA, "it's more fuel efficient to drive with the air conditioning off, windows down."
Consumer Reports' auto-test department reports that the air conditioner reduces your car's fuel efficiency by up to 10 percent. So to achieve maximum fuel efficiency, motorists should avoid using the air conditioner at speeds below 40 mph and travel with their windows down, explains Gabe Shenhar, senior auto test engineer at Consumer Report's auto-test department.
"But as your speed increases to 45 mph, or highway speeds," says Jason Toews, co-founder of GasBuddy.com, "wind drag becomes an issue. Driving with the windows down increases the drag on your vehicle, resulting in decreased fuel economy by up to 10 percent. Drive at speeds over 55 mph with windows down and you'll decrease fuel economy by up to 20 percent or greater."
Shenhar and Hampshire agree: It's all in your speed.
Hypermiling is another fad popularized by local TV news features. It's right up there with running your car on old fryer grease, good for a quick news item, but completely impractical. They find some loonie who spends 23-1/2 hours a day figuring out how to get another tenth of a mile from his car, and then tout it as the new solution to high gas prices. No thanks!
If you want to get 60+ mpg, buy a Prius.
If you want to get 100+ mpg, buy a scooter.
If you want to get 50+ miles per banana, buy a bicycle.
If you want to have fun, buy a MINI!
If you want to get 60+ mpg, buy a Prius.
If you want to get 100+ mpg, buy a scooter.
If you want to get 50+ miles per banana, buy a bicycle.
If you want to have fun, buy a MINI!
Speed limits and MPG
I've seen this tip a lot : "to save fuel, drive the speed limit" - and it just doesn't make sense.
The old "double-nickel" notwithstanding, speed limits are not set with fuel efficiency in mind. Therefore, it doesn't necessarily follow that driving the speed limit will increase your MPG.
Not that I'm advocating driving ABOVE the speed limit
The old "double-nickel" notwithstanding, speed limits are not set with fuel efficiency in mind. Therefore, it doesn't necessarily follow that driving the speed limit will increase your MPG.
Not that I'm advocating driving ABOVE the speed limit
I've seen this tip a lot : "to save fuel, drive the speed limit" - and it just doesn't make sense.
The old "double-nickel" notwithstanding, speed limits are not set with fuel efficiency in mind. Therefore, it doesn't necessarily follow that driving the speed limit will increase your MPG.
Not that I'm advocating driving ABOVE the speed limit
The old "double-nickel" notwithstanding, speed limits are not set with fuel efficiency in mind. Therefore, it doesn't necessarily follow that driving the speed limit will increase your MPG.
Not that I'm advocating driving ABOVE the speed limit

Well your right, in our cars particularly, its most efficient below 75. Anything over and you will see your mpg go down...and anything way over and you will see it go down even more
probably our most efficient speed before air resistance really takes into affect is around 60-70. Anywhere in this range you can start to feel the gained resistance and see the mpg drop slightly. Once it does you might as well down shift and floor it cuz theres no going back









