Matt,

Plan on working on the tuning of my GTi, possibly dropping my MCS back to C, and working up a decent D class car when I get home. Should be up for some more racing later in the evening though.

NP on the interruptions, had alot of fun.

 

I noticed your GTI seemed to slip out on the turns alot.

try putting your front toe at -0.5 or -1.0. This will give you better turn in ability.

you can also put rear toe at +0.5 or +1.0 if you need more rotation.

I cant remember if you were running on slicks or not, if you are what is your differential settings at?

 

Yeah, I was plowing really badly in the AWD GTI and my MINI last night. I think a lot of it was my total loss of input modulation. Seemed to get better as I added rear bar/springs/rebound & discipline w/ the go-pedal, but still understeering pretty badly when I got past around 50-60% throttle exiting turns.

Think I have my camber on the GTI up to like -2.2 F and -1.6 R (might drop the rear down, but hesitating since I'm mostly RWD on the car), toe +0.1 F -0.1 R, and the center dif at 35 F 65 R. IIRC, the accel on the front dif was about 4 - 5 ticks down from default and the rear maybe 1 or 2 down. Need to do some traction analysis on some replays and see if I need to dial up the acceleration on the difs. Didn't notice my inside tires smoking at all, but haven't really figured out the front/rear difs in FM2 yet...

I was running the DOT tires on on the GTI and the MINI online last night. Switched over to slicks on the MINI afterwards and think I will probably do the same for the GTI. Should have some room for them it if I kill my exhaust &/or intake.

Probably won't be online until after 10-11PM EDT tonight, but drop me a line if you see me on and want another car to finish behind you

Edit: just re-read your post and am now wondering if my toe settings are bass-ackwards... Is toe out a negative value/toe in positive?

 

Toe in is negative, toe out is positive.

I think you have your differentials a little off.

Just for experiment sake, put your front toe at -0.5 and rear at 0.0. Then put your differential settings at 70% front and back for accleration. This will actually get your car to stop understeering so badly. You will actually be able to turn sharper and still be on the gas through most of the turn.

The % on the differentials is how much slip is needed in order to lock the diff. With you running the % so low, The diff is locking up too early in the turn and is causing you to plow through the turn like you have Posi traction. Raising the % will allow the outside tire on the turn to take most of the power still allowing you to get grip and accelerate while turning. The more lower the % the more power is being giving to both wheels. The inside tire is pushing on the outside tire making it go straight, and thats why its plowing.

Try messing with the Diff's you might see a world of difference.

BTW, im really sorry i had to leave so soon.... Hopefully i'll be on tonight if anyone else wants to race/chat.

 

Hmm... OK, sounds like maybe they reversed the direction of the values for the diferentials. Turning them up in Forza 1 seemed like it made the dif lock sooner. I'll check out reversing the accel settings and bumping up my toe out on the front end.

Thanks for the suggestions.

 

I could be wrong but this setup has helped me out alot. I know on my silvia it turns sharper when im holding the gas than when im off of it. I think this is due to my rear diff setting. I can let off, or slightly tap the brake to break loose the rear end, then i get on the gas when i have the rear set where i want it. I can usually just throttle steer through the turn if im driving the way i should.

I really wish i could have ran my Elan more. The mustang guy didnt seem to like it much. But i agree about its weight thing. It didnt make much sense to me when i first saw it. Hopefully they will fix it soon so i can run it fairly. For now i will save the "Little Red Devil" for when im racing strangers...or other Elans.

Now with my Elan out...i got to find a D class car that i can really be more competitive with. I love my Sprinter so maybe i will try to change its setup to be more faster. Berkel's Mazda 3 kept beating me...so i got to figure something out.

 

Do you guys generally tune between races online or on the test runs in the tuning menu?

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Gamertag: Tribblez

 

I'm no expert but I've been trying to get a good baseline tune by test driving on a few courses from the Tune Car section in single player. This is nice because you can tune from the pause menu w/o leaving the track you're on. I've been incrementally tweaking a couple of setting at a time max and will turn a few clean laps on a course I'm familiar w/ to see if I'm actually faster w/ each change.

I also find myself tweaking settings in between online races to fine tune as needed.

 

Im with SilverRocket on this one. I do all my tuning on the test drive option in single player. Only thing i touch when actually racing others is my gear ratios for different courses. If you find yourself having to do alot of tuning with other things besides gears, then you may want to set a certian car up for that 1 course/class.

 

I'm reviving an old thread here. I was just recently introduced to the wonderfulness that is Forza 2. After trying it out at a friend's house with a racing wheels setup (he's got the racing seat setup too!), I *HAD* to buy Forza 2 and the wheel.

I love racing in the MINI!!!

Anyone here on NAM want to get together and race MINIs or other cars on xbox live?