So, I've driven many track days, but finally took the '07 MCS to the track for its maiden voyage. Damn it works pretty well!

Conditions were cold and wet, and i still managed to deplete my coolant level and smoke the stock brake pads. The pads were only good for a couple hot laps....but I did win FWD fast lap.

I don't have a water temp sensor (which is just plain f----- stupid that there isn't a stock one.) The water temp warning light did not come on during laps at the track.

Looking at the car the next day, the coolant level is at the bottom of the bottle with no apparent leaks puddling anywhere. I could smell some while running hot. Also, after just idling for a few minutes, the yellow engine malfunction light comes on (the engine with the slanted line through it). Not quite the level of warning of the red light, but the manual still says to limp it to the dealer.

I did notice after shutting down, there is a slight hiss (not the factory turbo timer) that I'm almost sure is the coolant bottle cap not sealing. Can this be the source of my problem? I'd appreciate input.

cheers

 

The stock brakes aren't up to the task of track work. At the very least you'll need better pads and fresh fluid. If you plan on tracking regularly you'll need a good brake kit like Texas Speedwerks, TCE, or Detroit Tuned.

Not sure on the coolant issue, I haven't heard of the R56 having cooling problems or consuming coolant. Hopefully you don't have a head gasket problem! How does the oil look?

 

Wilwoods! I run the 11 x 7.5" BBK race kit and they clear 949Racing 15 x 7.5" (12lb) rims just fine..

Full race pad - Hawk DTC70's...

 

Don't run out and buy a mega-buck brake set until you're sure you need it. We've run Showroom Stock SCCA races with the stock Cooper S brakes since 2002 and never had a failure. Our races are 45 miles and we are on the brakes full blast from speeds up to 135 (Daytona front and rear straights). Change to a good fuild, new rotors and a set of Carbo Tech pads and you'll be fine. If you have brake problems at track days, my experience is you're not braking hard enough and braking easier and LONGER, causing the heat to build up. Deeper and harder on the brakes beats easier and longer. In full race or qualifying mode, we get about 2-3 hours of racing per set.

Brad
MINI of Charleston

 

That's good advice for sure....

But I bought the Wilwoods mainly because of the easiness of pad changes, not to mention quickly, that this "race" setup offered. Pull a pin and the pads just pop out vs yanking the calipers off. Do I need to do this in a hurry...no. But I like not to have to spend the time while packing up after being at the track. $1000 wasn't too bad a price to pay either. I don't race the car but merely do track days and I got about 20 track days out of two sets of Hawk DTC70's driving at LRP and WGI....

Brad....you are absolutely correct about braking hard & fast versus slow and long. I toasted my upgraded "street" pads in the Wilwoods at my first event ever in only two sessions at the Glen by cooking the fluid and pads. That was a costly lesson because I missed the two afternoon sessions and the next days as well because I never thought I'd go thru a set of pads at a novice event. Live and learn....