I know that. I was just explaining the context it was brought up so people would understand how it's for the JCW Brembos.

 

Thanks for sharing! I didn't see that link before on their website. I am looking forward to rebuilding mine over the winter.

 

Yep. I'm glad they at least have a kit so when I finally get my front calipers, they can be rebuilt with the metal pistons.

 

I'll be ordering the rebuild kit after MINI declined to address as a warranty issue. I had a 2002 MCS I ordered new and drove until I got the coupe in 2011. The MCS never had caliper issues and endured many autox and track days as well. It's a shame that the so-called ultimate performance version of the MINI has skimped in the braking department. Shame on them.

 

Sadly that's a characteristic of most OEM "high performance" brake setups save for the high dollar exotics.

 

Just goes to prove that JCW is not the ///M of MINI.
Still have original calipers on my 99 M coupe too.

 

I have decided to buy the JCW Coupe. Probably just going to go for the yellow stuff, and fluid change right out of the gate. Once a few track days in I will replace the Pistons. Then I'm all good!

 

Another brake question. I think I saw this answered somewhere but can't seem to find it.

I noticed EBC yellows ship with metal "weights" on the top of the front pads like the stock pads. I'm not sure what the part is called, but hawk brake pads do not for example.

What is that part for? And is it needed?

 

The "weights" are to reduce brake pad squealing and are not needed for high performance and track applications

 

Thanks for the answer. Just so I can be educated: Do those parts have a name?

 

So I wanted to hop back into this thread with info for other people. Before the track day I decided to buy some hawk hp+ pads on the recommendation of people on the forums and a good friend.

The Hawk HP+ pads worked very well with my car, and didn't fade at all. Once I get around to measuring the pad thickness I'll report back. (Side question: if anyone knows do you measure the thickness + the backing plate, or subtract the backing plate from the thickness measurement?) The only thing is that the pad's paint cooked as you can see in the pics below. I emailed Hawk, and they said it's normal.

The main drawback of the hawks is the dump truck like screeching at low speeds in daily driving situations. I left the pads in the car for a few weeks just to see how tolerable they are. The pads don't have the little metal stabilizers on top like the oem pads, and EBC yellowstuff pads do. When you reverse the car then put on the brake there is a loud clack/clank sound of the pads shifting around.

This weekend I swapped the OEM pads back in. I bought a low price/quality pin punch set from harbor freight (http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece...set-93424.html) the 1/8" was the one that fit, then I used the bigger one to smack the pin back in. I also bought one of those dead blow hammers to do the banging work. (I used some youtube instructions I found for removing the pads) Some of the fluid leaked out when I compressed the pistons. I forgot to put a rag around the cap of the brake fluid reservoir so make sure you remember to do that if you swap your own pads. Lastly the OEM pads have an install direction. There is a white arrow on the side of the pad that points in the direction of forward movement. The tapered side of the pad should point toward the top of the car. I didn't notice this until I did my passenger side so I had to re-do the drivers side. I found it was easier to put in / align the bottom pin of the brake caliper first, then do the top one. The other way around was more of a PITA.

I also had swapped out my fluid with higher temp ATE brake fluid. My shop uses the same fluid in their race mini so I figured I wouldn't need anything more. Consistent braking lap after lap so they were right.

Also it seems I melted my dust boots (as expected).

Here are some pics of the aftermath:

 

I would Highly suggest that you invest in a set of Carbotech XP10 pads for the track. Much better than the HP+ pads. With the heat that you seem to be generating you are likely to exceed the temp rating of the Hawks. The Carbos are also kinder to your rotors. I have run the Carbotechs on the street and found them to be tolerable, but any pad that you can use on the track will squeal on the street. Lastly, look for a set of titanium shims to put between the pad and the piston. These will shield the pistons from some of the heat that is being generated.

 

Interestingly enough the stock JCW pads have what appear to be shims already. I should have taken a pic.

 

I'm not sure how effective the titanium shims will be, provided you can even find them for those calipers. I think the only option is to swap the pistons and rubber boots out for the metal pistons from Racing Brake.

 

Yeah I was considering that kit.