I'd have paid to watch that!

 

I've had the Craven short shifter for 5 years now and find going back to a standard unit feels odd in that it seems sloppy, tall and long (Duh!). I've been very happy with the unit. When I allow other folks to drive my Mini I usually get "Wow, I really like that short shifter!".

Another benefit for R53 drivers is that your hand doesn't hit the upper cup holder any more.

I was able to retain the stock well cover and have sufficient reduction in throw to make things worthwhile. Not using the well cover makes things too warm for my sensitive nature. At the extreme reduction the force required to shift goes up significantly especially trying to get into reverse.

While no tools are required to adjust the shifter I'm unable to get sufficient torque on the collett with my fingers to keep it in place while banging gears. It's almost as problematic as when the shifter ball kept coming off going int 2nd. A little judicious tightening with some water pump pliers with a rag for protection of the collett takes care of the problem.

 

I cannot speak to trying other shift kits, but I can tell you my logic for buying the nm. Functionally, their part is essentially similar to the Helix part, but shorter. However, I liked the fact that nm went the additional distance and created the revised cover. I don't subscribe to the theory that leaving the bottom uncovered is OK. While I don't intentionally drive in snow and slush, sometimes it is unavoidable. The idea of dirty water with road salt splashing under there had no appeal. With that decision, it didn't make sense to buy the cover from nm and the shifter part from Helix.

 

After Blood, Sweat, and Tears (okay no tears.... but lots of swear words)... I installed Craven's Short Shifter.

Was the Blood, Sweat and Swear words worth it???? Ask my fingers and they would say no... but ask me .... HELL Yea!! Love It!

FOR ME things would have went better if I just wore gloves and protected my hands.

It was frustrating @ times.... but more rewarding.

You defiantly need 2 people to get the 3 clips loose and pop out old shifter.

Cheers!

 

One additional thought...

There's been a lot of discussion about the Shift Assembly Cover. When I received the nm cover, I was glad that I made the decision to buy it. If you lived in a dry climate such as southern California or Arizona, maybe you could get away with it as long as you stayed out of big puddles. But, when you take the stock cover off, notice the effort that BMW put into sealing up that area. I can think of 4 possibilities: noise and heat up through the shifter well, corrosion of the mechanism (remember, it was closed up) and dirt where the shifter mates with the rest of the linkage. Or, perhaps it was all of the above. Anyway, it's a hard plastic part with an O-ring for sealing. A lot of trouble to go through for something that people say is unnecessary...

 

Yea, I also did not re-install the bottom white cover. I left it off as many do. The main reason I didn't re-install it was the exhaust shield. The Exhaust shield for my 2011 JCW was nice and snug up against the bottom and I would assume would protect the shifter area ... for the most part. I know not 100% but hopefully good enough.

Again I am more hopeful than anything with no scientific testing.

 

I was amazed on how MINI designed the bottom white cover? I had to get creative and use a dermal to get some of the clips off.

They must have special tool? or probably tools... and many hands.

 

Good question. I had a shop do mine as I sold my house several months ago and my tools are all in storage. I did notice that the shop broke one of the tabs. It would be different if you could bend the cover, but it seems to be pretty stiff. So, I don't know how they did it, but yes, it does seem a bit tricky.

By the way, I assume you mean Dremel?

 

Just installed the nm shift adapter and cover, and the craven shift well. Really happy with the results, although I had to go to the hardware store to find a grommet that fit the craven cover, so that prolonged things a bit.

 

That bottom cover isn't that hard to take off. Use a 90 deg pick and just pop each tab loose one by one and it will come right off.

 

You defiantly need 2 people to get the 3 clips loose and pop out old shifter.
Cheers![/QUOTE]

HA HA HA I can REALLY visualize this step. Cussed over and over and finally got it off. Next step in instructions states to go under car remove heat shield and pull off the cables. Well guess what.. I did'nt take that darn clip off on the top, and "click"... it popped right back on while I was under the car prying off the cables. Did'nt know if I should've cried, or give up!

 

How do you guys get the ball joint that goes to the white arm on and off? Do you undo the clip on the side and take it off or just bend it into place?

I ask because it looks like i broke my shifter base bending it and now i need to buy a new one from the dealer to fix the problem at a cost of $200!

 

Alright guys, I need more tips to get an access to the shifter cover underneath the car. Do I really need to drop the exhaust? I don't want to deal with the V band from the down pipe. How do you remove the heat shield?

 

The V band clamp on my MCS took a 16mm deep socket to remove the nut. Then I used some PB Blaster to loosen it and waited 10 minutes and the bolt slid right off with a little tap. Then I used a pair of needle nose pliers to pry open the V band and slid it towards the DP. After that a pair of exhaust removal pliers will make it super easy to detach the exhaust from the rubber hangers. I went front to back and used an extra jack stand to help prop up the muffler/tips up while I took off the last rubber hanger. The heatshield needs a standard 10mm socket. A 90-degree poker will also help remove the cover. And to undo the ball joint, I used a small pair of channel locks and a small pry bar. Good luck!

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How much would an install cost?