F55/F56 Brighter Reverse Lights
5th Gear
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 775
Likes: 145
From: Northern MA, USA
Reverse light bulbs
The standard bulb is 21watt, & this may be the legal maximum in some locations.
Depending on which style of bulb you have, the common auto stores should have 30, 36 or 50watt versions of the same bulb.
Check the size of the housing, as larger bulbs, like those with a back-up beeper, may not fit.
I have a 50W halogen in my R53 which works fine.
Mike
4th Gear
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 328
Likes: 3
From: Illinois
Keep us posted on what works!
Also, want to note that a higher watt bulb may throw an error code on the newer vehicles ... especially F56. MVPeters has an R53 (gen 1 vehicle), which does not have a bulb monitoring system.
Also, want to note that a higher watt bulb may throw an error code on the newer vehicles ... especially F56. MVPeters has an R53 (gen 1 vehicle), which does not have a bulb monitoring system.
5th Gear
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 775
Likes: 145
From: Northern MA, USA
Just an FYI re the R53 bulb monitoring.
Mine's an early, July 02 R53, model with NO options.
I replaced the stop/tail light bulbs with LEDs. When I first start the car, they flicker on & off for a few seconds. This tells me that the monitoring circuit exists in the LCM, but the basic dashboard has nowhere to display the results!
Is it an option I can switch on? (I'm not paying anyone to do it).
BTW, I doubt if the reverse light is included in the monitoring, is it?
Mine's an early, July 02 R53, model with NO options.
I replaced the stop/tail light bulbs with LEDs. When I first start the car, they flicker on & off for a few seconds. This tells me that the monitoring circuit exists in the LCM, but the basic dashboard has nowhere to display the results!
Is it an option I can switch on? (I'm not paying anyone to do it).
BTW, I doubt if the reverse light is included in the monitoring, is it?
4th Gear
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 328
Likes: 3
From: Illinois
Just an FYI re the R53 bulb monitoring.
Mine's an early, July 02 R53, model with NO options.
I replaced the stop/tail light bulbs with LEDs. When I first start the car, they flicker on & off for a few seconds. This tells me that the monitoring circuit exists in the LCM, but the basic dashboard has nowhere to display the results!
Is it an option I can switch on? (I'm not paying anyone to do it).
BTW, I doubt if the reverse light is included in the monitoring, is it?
Mine's an early, July 02 R53, model with NO options.
I replaced the stop/tail light bulbs with LEDs. When I first start the car, they flicker on & off for a few seconds. This tells me that the monitoring circuit exists in the LCM, but the basic dashboard has nowhere to display the results!
Is it an option I can switch on? (I'm not paying anyone to do it).
BTW, I doubt if the reverse light is included in the monitoring, is it?
Thread Starter
|
3rd Gear
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 203
Likes: 2
I had the same problem when I put LED indicators on my motorcycle. I have some resistors that I soldered in-line to keep the relay from freaking out. Could I do that same thing here?
Trending Topics
3rd Gear
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 193
Likes: 1
I also want brighter backup lights and my thinking is that it would be easier to either find a license plate frame that has some LED's or some auxiliary backup light that don't look they should be on tractor or something. Power them directly off the battery and then trigger them with a relay signal off the reverse circuit. I "think" that would not be enough change in load to trigger a warning light. Just my thoughts.
Thread Starter
|
3rd Gear
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 203
Likes: 2
Here are my thoughts on this and bear in mind that this is the first CANBUS vehicle I've owned: Yeah, you could definitely try inline resistors but the issue I see is that how do you "know" what level of resistance the ECU wants to see? In, other words, you might end up doing LOTS of splicing and soldering to find one that actually works. What is the actual "tolerance" the ECU will allow before throwing the code? That's the million dollar question.
I also want brighter backup lights and my thinking is that it would be easier to either find a license plate frame that has some LED's or some auxiliary backup light that don't look they should be on tractor or something. Power them directly off the battery and then trigger them with a relay signal off the reverse circuit. I "think" that would not be enough change in load to trigger a warning light. Just my thoughts.
I also want brighter backup lights and my thinking is that it would be easier to either find a license plate frame that has some LED's or some auxiliary backup light that don't look they should be on tractor or something. Power them directly off the battery and then trigger them with a relay signal off the reverse circuit. I "think" that would not be enough change in load to trigger a warning light. Just my thoughts.
6th Gear
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,599
Likes: 42
From: Bothell, WA
Will check back in a couple weeks when mine comes in...if it's like the Countryman's tail light cluster (which, looking at parts diagrams, it is), it should be easy to replace.
I need to see what kind of bulb it uses and if the bulb is different depending on if LED headlights are equipped or not since the tail lights are different too.
I need to see what kind of bulb it uses and if the bulb is different depending on if LED headlights are equipped or not since the tail lights are different too.
Thread Starter
|
3rd Gear
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 203
Likes: 2
Will check back in a couple weeks when mine comes in...if it's like the Countryman's tail light cluster (which, looking at parts diagrams, it is), it should be easy to replace.
I need to see what kind of bulb it uses and if the bulb is different depending on if LED headlights are equipped or not since the tail lights are different too.
I need to see what kind of bulb it uses and if the bulb is different depending on if LED headlights are equipped or not since the tail lights are different too.
6th Gear
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,599
Likes: 42
From: Bothell, WA
Replaced all my bulbs with LEDs in my Countryman - my new F55 will have more LEDs standard, but it still has some filament bulbs and I intend on replacing almost all of them.
2nd Gear
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
I'm debating monkeying with all the incandescents. Getting to the bulbs isn't a problem. The taillight assembly is pretty interesting (and comes out easiy once you know how), and as a bonus it uses normal bayonet bulbs (4 of the same kind; 2 for brake, 1 for turn and one for reverse) unlike the front signal which is a PWY24W.
OVERDRIVE
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,233
Likes: 128
From: San Francisco
It doesn't look difficult based on the instructions in the Owner's Manual. Seems similar to the bulb holder panel in the taillights of the R50 and R53.
2nd Gear
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
From: Wales
80W Cree LED reversing bulb
I put an 80W "CREE" 1156 bulb in the single reversing light lamp of my 2008 R55 Clubman. It uses 4 leds in the top which has a lens and has 12 more on the sides to light the reflector.
This bulb was advertised as 80W Cree and there are many on eBay. I don't believe that it uses genuine Cree bulbs but nevertheless, it is very very bright. It is almost too bright to look at.
However, it doesn't really throw out the type of light I would like when reversing. It is nowhere as good as say a 50W Halogen bulb single fog lamp.
It is far far better that the standard 21W bulb but a bit disappointing.
This bulb was advertised as 80W Cree and there are many on eBay. I don't believe that it uses genuine Cree bulbs but nevertheless, it is very very bright. It is almost too bright to look at.
However, it doesn't really throw out the type of light I would like when reversing. It is nowhere as good as say a 50W Halogen bulb single fog lamp.
It is far far better that the standard 21W bulb but a bit disappointing.
Thread Starter
|
3rd Gear
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 203
Likes: 2
I'm debating monkeying with all the incandescents. Getting to the bulbs isn't a problem. The taillight assembly is pretty interesting (and comes out easiy once you know how), and as a bonus it uses normal bayonet bulbs (4 of the same kind; 2 for brake, 1 for turn and one for reverse) unlike the front signal which is a PWY24W.
6th Gear
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,599
Likes: 42
From: Bothell, WA
It looks like it's similar to the Countryman - all the bulbs are part of one housing for the taillight and you just have to squeeze a clip to pop the housing out. After the housing is released, you can change the bulbs quite easily.
6th Gear
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,599
Likes: 42
From: Bothell, WA
Now that I have my F55 in hand, a few observations:
NOTE: My MINI has the LED headlights/tail lights equipped
TL;DR: Accessing bulbs is about the same as Rxx, but strobing and errors are a problem and no ESYS solution.
- TAIL LIGHTS: The LED tail lights only use LEDs for the accent lighting at night. Brake lights, turn signals and reverse are all incandescent and are part of a housing almost exactly like the Countryman. They are even easier to take out, however since the wires are attached by a clip, which is easily removed and the clips are easy to work. PLUS, the cavity back there is HUGE! A perfect smuggler's car.... lol
I plugged LEDs into the sockets (3 red for brake/turn signals, 1 for reverse) and tested it out - two big problems: one, they all throw errors..not surprising, but still. More seriously, the suffer the "strobe effect" when you start the car up - it's caused by the computer's bulb checks. Some people like this, but I think it's very annoying.
To top it off, unlike the Rxx MINIs, I haven't seen a way to code out bulb checks in ESYS - meaning there is no way to fix this. Even if you use CANBUS bulbs, you'll still get strobing.
- SIDE SCUTTLES: Side scuttle lights are also incandescent and have an inherent hazard when replacing: the bulb is part of a housing which is attached to a wire harness which is accessible after removing a panel from the engine compartment. Taking the panel and the harness off is easy. Removing the housing can be accomplished by twisting counter-clockwise. Once it's out, replacing the bulb (a wedge type), is also easy. HOWEVER, when you are putting it back you have to be EXTREMELY careful since if you drop it, it falls into a chasm which goes all the way down to the bottom of the car and does not open to the outside. It just stays at the bottom of that well. I...uh...still haven't managed to fish it out with my telescoping magnet...I have a claw coming which should work, but be careful!
- FRONT LIGHTS: The front turn signals seem to be accessible by a panel in the wheel well, same as most 2nd gen MINIs. I didn't attempt to get to those yet - trying to fish out that side bulb housing wore me out - but they look easy enough to get to.
- MISC/INTERIOR LIGHTS: License plate lights, interior reading lights, dome lights, puddle lights are all LED (YAY!), but the glove box light and the boot light are incandescent and put out a lot of heat... The housing is easy enough to take out, but the bulb is secured by a metal clip I haven't figured out how to remove without damaging...
Interior lights shouldn't throw any errors or strobing, so I'll try and get those replaced for sure.
NOTE: My MINI has the LED headlights/tail lights equipped
TL;DR: Accessing bulbs is about the same as Rxx, but strobing and errors are a problem and no ESYS solution.
- TAIL LIGHTS: The LED tail lights only use LEDs for the accent lighting at night. Brake lights, turn signals and reverse are all incandescent and are part of a housing almost exactly like the Countryman. They are even easier to take out, however since the wires are attached by a clip, which is easily removed and the clips are easy to work. PLUS, the cavity back there is HUGE! A perfect smuggler's car.... lol
I plugged LEDs into the sockets (3 red for brake/turn signals, 1 for reverse) and tested it out - two big problems: one, they all throw errors..not surprising, but still. More seriously, the suffer the "strobe effect" when you start the car up - it's caused by the computer's bulb checks. Some people like this, but I think it's very annoying.
To top it off, unlike the Rxx MINIs, I haven't seen a way to code out bulb checks in ESYS - meaning there is no way to fix this. Even if you use CANBUS bulbs, you'll still get strobing.
- SIDE SCUTTLES: Side scuttle lights are also incandescent and have an inherent hazard when replacing: the bulb is part of a housing which is attached to a wire harness which is accessible after removing a panel from the engine compartment. Taking the panel and the harness off is easy. Removing the housing can be accomplished by twisting counter-clockwise. Once it's out, replacing the bulb (a wedge type), is also easy. HOWEVER, when you are putting it back you have to be EXTREMELY careful since if you drop it, it falls into a chasm which goes all the way down to the bottom of the car and does not open to the outside. It just stays at the bottom of that well. I...uh...still haven't managed to fish it out with my telescoping magnet...I have a claw coming which should work, but be careful!
- FRONT LIGHTS: The front turn signals seem to be accessible by a panel in the wheel well, same as most 2nd gen MINIs. I didn't attempt to get to those yet - trying to fish out that side bulb housing wore me out - but they look easy enough to get to.
- MISC/INTERIOR LIGHTS: License plate lights, interior reading lights, dome lights, puddle lights are all LED (YAY!), but the glove box light and the boot light are incandescent and put out a lot of heat... The housing is easy enough to take out, but the bulb is secured by a metal clip I haven't figured out how to remove without damaging...
Interior lights shouldn't throw any errors or strobing, so I'll try and get those replaced for sure.
Last edited by siriuszero; Mar 19, 2015 at 03:50 PM. Reason: formatting
6th Gear
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,599
Likes: 42
From: Bothell, WA
Futzed around with it again last night to see about replacing the front bulbs and I bought a pick-up tool for that bulb I mentioned dropping down the void (not just for that, it's a pretty handy tool for working on cars.).
- SIDE SCUTTLES (TAKE 2): So I finally fished the bulb/housing out of the bottom of the compartment, thanks to my new tool, and went about replacing the bulb in the side scuttle again. HOWEVER, it was only after I fished it out that I noticed the side scuttle is held in place by one clip and squeezing that clip pops out the whole side scuttle assembly. Dammit...way easier to to it that way. Oh well.
I put my LED bulb in and fired up the car. No errors on the computer, BUT it must still be doing some sort of check because if you activate your turn signal, it blinks at double the frequency, as most cars do with a burned bulb. VERY ANNOYING. These bulbs were not CANBUS LEDs, so I wonder if I may have better luck with those.
- FRONT TURN SIGNALS: The only incandescent lights in the front of the car are the turn signals, which are accessible the same way as on other MINIs: a cover that twists off via the wheel well, which if you have the hood open, you can see the other side of said cover. Once the cover is off, there is another cover in the headlight assembly. Twist to remove, like a jar lid. If you feel around, you'll feel a wiring harness. This is the turn signal assembly. There are two small, long clips on the top and bottom. Squeeze to release, then pull on the socket - the bulb comes with it. Make sure the bulb hasn't been used in a while because they get hot QUICK.
I removed the old bulb and inserted my CANBUS LEDs, but I discovered a couple of the LEDs on the bulb weren't working, so I had to scrap it, and put the normal bulbs back in for now. Didn't notice strobing on these though, no errors and no double blinking. Once you know how all the covers come off, both bulbs can be changed in 2 minutes, though.
- GLOVE BOX: This and the boot light are what I really wanted to replace. The glove box light is behind the plastic lens, which I easily removed with my fingernail, but a plastic spudger or pry tool would work too. Avoid using a screwdriver as you can scratch things up. Once the lens is loose, the whole assembly comes down and is connected to the car by a wire harness which you can pinch to remove. the bulb twists out and I replaced it with a SMD bulb from my CM. Easy and the extra light works better.
- BOOT LIGHT: I had mentioned that the boot light was behind some metal clip (which now I think is used as a heat sink because that bulb was radiating massive heat). I got brave and carefully using a small screwdriver, I pryed the metal housing off to finally get to the bulb. The metal housing is actually three pieces; the cover/heat sink, then two prongs which connect each of the bulb's terminals to the wire harness in the car. Replaced with a SMD bulb, plugged it back in and now nice, cooler, brighter light for my boot. YAY!
- SIDE SCUTTLES (TAKE 2): So I finally fished the bulb/housing out of the bottom of the compartment, thanks to my new tool, and went about replacing the bulb in the side scuttle again. HOWEVER, it was only after I fished it out that I noticed the side scuttle is held in place by one clip and squeezing that clip pops out the whole side scuttle assembly. Dammit...way easier to to it that way. Oh well.
I put my LED bulb in and fired up the car. No errors on the computer, BUT it must still be doing some sort of check because if you activate your turn signal, it blinks at double the frequency, as most cars do with a burned bulb. VERY ANNOYING. These bulbs were not CANBUS LEDs, so I wonder if I may have better luck with those.
- FRONT TURN SIGNALS: The only incandescent lights in the front of the car are the turn signals, which are accessible the same way as on other MINIs: a cover that twists off via the wheel well, which if you have the hood open, you can see the other side of said cover. Once the cover is off, there is another cover in the headlight assembly. Twist to remove, like a jar lid. If you feel around, you'll feel a wiring harness. This is the turn signal assembly. There are two small, long clips on the top and bottom. Squeeze to release, then pull on the socket - the bulb comes with it. Make sure the bulb hasn't been used in a while because they get hot QUICK.
I removed the old bulb and inserted my CANBUS LEDs, but I discovered a couple of the LEDs on the bulb weren't working, so I had to scrap it, and put the normal bulbs back in for now. Didn't notice strobing on these though, no errors and no double blinking. Once you know how all the covers come off, both bulbs can be changed in 2 minutes, though.
- GLOVE BOX: This and the boot light are what I really wanted to replace. The glove box light is behind the plastic lens, which I easily removed with my fingernail, but a plastic spudger or pry tool would work too. Avoid using a screwdriver as you can scratch things up. Once the lens is loose, the whole assembly comes down and is connected to the car by a wire harness which you can pinch to remove. the bulb twists out and I replaced it with a SMD bulb from my CM. Easy and the extra light works better.
- BOOT LIGHT: I had mentioned that the boot light was behind some metal clip (which now I think is used as a heat sink because that bulb was radiating massive heat). I got brave and carefully using a small screwdriver, I pryed the metal housing off to finally get to the bulb. The metal housing is actually three pieces; the cover/heat sink, then two prongs which connect each of the bulb's terminals to the wire harness in the car. Replaced with a SMD bulb, plugged it back in and now nice, cooler, brighter light for my boot. YAY!
Last edited by siriuszero; Mar 20, 2015 at 11:38 AM. Reason: forgot two sections
5th Gear
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 920
Likes: 1
From: Central Connecticut
I really surprised at how dim the factory backup light setup is. With my old '12 Buick LaCrosse I could easily see anything behind me at night. With my Mini, I honestly wonder at times if I even have backup lights. IMO it is a safety issue with this car. Why even bother with the lights if they don't provide the driver any real benefit. JMO.
5th Gear
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 837
Likes: 22
There's still one bulb mystery that remains, and I have yet to find a solution: The VISOR LAMPS!
They appear to be incandescent (why!?), but more importantly, I'm baffled as to how they can be accessed.
Anyone?
They appear to be incandescent (why!?), but more importantly, I'm baffled as to how they can be accessed.
Anyone?
Futzed around with it again last night to see about replacing the front bulbs and I bought a pick-up tool for that bulb I mentioned dropping down the void (not just for that, it's a pretty handy tool for working on cars.). - SIDE SCUTTLES (TAKE 2): So I finally fished the bulb/housing out of the bottom of the compartment, thanks to my new tool, and went about replacing the bulb in the side scuttle again. HOWEVER, it was only after I fished it out that I noticed the side scuttle is held in place by one clip and squeezing that clip pops out the whole side scuttle assembly. Dammit...way easier to to it that way. Oh well. I put my LED bulb in and fired up the car. No errors on the computer, BUT it must still be doing some sort of check because if you activate your turn signal, it blinks at double the frequency, as most cars do with a burned bulb. VERY ANNOYING. These bulbs were not CANBUS LEDs, so I wonder if I may have better luck with those. - FRONT TURN SIGNALS: The only incandescent lights in the front of the car are the turn signals, which are accessible the same way as on other MINIs: a cover that twists off via the wheel well, which if you have the hood open, you can see the other side of said cover. Once the cover is off, there is another cover in the headlight assembly. Twist to remove, like a jar lid. If you feel around, you'll feel a wiring harness. This is the turn signal assembly. There are two small, long clips on the top and bottom. Squeeze to release, then pull on the socket - the bulb comes with it. Make sure the bulb hasn't been used in a while because they get hot QUICK. I removed the old bulb and inserted my CANBUS LEDs, but I discovered a couple of the LEDs on the bulb weren't working, so I had to scrap it, and put the normal bulbs back in for now. Didn't notice strobing on these though, no errors and no double blinking. Once you know how all the covers come off, both bulbs can be changed in 2 minutes, though. - GLOVE BOX: This and the boot light are what I really wanted to replace. The glove box light is behind the plastic lens, which I easily removed with my fingernail, but a plastic spudger or pry tool would work too. Avoid using a screwdriver as you can scratch things up. Once the lens is loose, the whole assembly comes down and is connected to the car by a wire harness which you can pinch to remove. the bulb twists out and I replaced it with a SMD bulb from my CM. Easy and the extra light works better. - BOOT LIGHT: I had mentioned that the boot light was behind some metal clip (which now I think is used as a heat sink because that bulb was radiating massive heat). I got brave and carefully using a small screwdriver, I pryed the metal housing off to finally get to the bulb. The metal housing is actually three pieces; the cover/heat sink, then two prongs which connect each of the bulb's terminals to the wire harness in the car. Replaced with a SMD bulb, plugged it back in and now nice, cooler, brighter light for my boot. YAY!
