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Crankshaft pulley replacement / locking the flywheel
For those who have done the crankshaft pulley / harmonic balancer / vibration dampener replacement on your 3rd gen (meaning F-series, B46/B48 engine), how did you lock the flywheel? What tool/technique did you use?
And how about the B36 (three cylinder) engine? Is there a tool that goes into the flywheel like the N16 engine?
Thanks,
Peter
Pretty sure the B36 is going to be the same as the B46. At that end of the engine the difference between the B36 and B46 is almost certainly not going to be the flywheel or the locking options for the flywheel. I'll defer to someone with authoritative knowledge on that.
In order to do this install and "lock up the crank" all you need to do is snug the crank bolts before you attempt to torque them, take a breaker bar or something meant to leverage (ideally a square shaft vs a round one) and lay the bar across a couple of the bolt heads while you tighten one, then move to the next opposite bolt and reposition the bar. You will need a second person to position and hold the bar with resistance while you torque the bolts. For the record, the torque spec is very low (if I recall its in the 20s) so this will not be difficult at all. See my hand drawn diagram below.
In order to do this install and "lock up the crank" all you need to do is snug the crank bolts before you attempt to torque them, take a breaker bar or something meant to leverage (ideally a square shaft vs a round one) and lay the bar across a couple of the bolt heads while you tighten one, then move to the next opposite bolt and reposition the bar. You will need a second person to position and hold the bar with resistance while you torque the bolts. For the record, the torque spec is very low (if I recall its in the 20s) so this will not be difficult at all. See my hand drawn diagram below.
You had me until "second person," I didn't have a spare one of those lol
Seriously though -- thank you! I wish I had thought of this approach! Yes, the torque spec is very low -- 28Nm if memory serves. However, TIS also specifies to turn another 180 degrees (new bolts, of course) once torque-down to that spec is met.
With my makeshift locking attempt (you don't want to know), I ended up only able to turn 90 degrees. Figured that was fine... until about 3300 miles later, when I found a new oil leak that I'm pretty sure is the front crank seal. Oops.
But with this guidance from you, now I think I can handle the leak and the torque-down properly. Thank you so much!
You had me until "second person," I didn't have a spare one of those lol
Seriously though -- thank you! I wish I had thought of this approach! Yes, the torque spec is very low -- 28Nm if memory serves. However, TIS also specifies to turn another 180 degrees (new bolts, of course) once torque-down to that spec is met.
With my makeshift locking attempt (you don't want to know), I ended up only able to turn 90 degrees. Figured that was fine... until about 3600 miles later, when I found a new oil leak that I'm pretty sure is the front crank seal. Oops.
But with this guidance from you, now I think I can handle the leak and the torque-down properly. Thank you so much!
