Any chance you can confirm/deny thatMfg Part #G052990A2ECS Part #ES#2702974Brandis the correct fluid for a 2017 Clubman S All4?
MINI PN is 83-22-2-355-599 ATF 6 per dealer

Don't want to ruin my tranny, but $50/qt just feels usurious.
TIA

 

Thats the cross ref we have for those fluids to part ATF 6

 

You don't happen to know the part number/a cross reference for the gaskets/crush washers that go on the plugs for the Aisin 8 speed, do you? I've discovered that this looks exceptionally easy to do in the driveway. Looks like only the skid tray and intake air box have to come off to do it.

I'm thinking order 8 or 9 quarts and two sets of drain plug washers. Drain/refill, drive a couple hundred to a thousand miles, drain/refill again. Maybe do it a third time to be safe. My Clubman has 73.2k miles (bought at 72.6k) and is 33.2k miles overdue for this service by my own personal standards

 

Check at this site https://www.oemreal.com enter your vin number.
And you see al the parts numbers.

 

Their is an O-ring on the top plug and the bottom one has that overflow, fill from the bottom set up.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=24_1937

Number 2 and 4 are o-rings

2 https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/24278699904/

4 https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/24278699922/


Number 3 is the overflow pipe.

3 https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/24148699921/

1 is the bottom screw plug on the overflow pipe. https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/24148699923/

 

So how does this work?

1. Remove the drain and fill plug and drain out all of the fluid.
2. Add the overflow plug with the pipe thing.
3. Pour in fluid until it comes out the overflow pipe thing.
4. Add O-rings and install the overflow pipe plug and fill plug.

Or maybe I missed something?

Thanks,
Peter

 

If it works like the 6-speed AISIN automatic available in the F56 before the 8 speed came about, it will be something more like the following (and this is not official, this is just my from-memory of me stepping through the official instructions for the 6-speed months ago):

1. ensure the car is level (see step 3 for why) and let the car get COLD (see step 8 for why)
2. remove the fill plug (you aren't going to get far with this if that baby won't come out)
3. remove the drain + overflow plug and let as much come out as is going to come out (it won't be everything, maybe 1/2 of the AT's capacity)
4. new-O-ring-seal and replace the overflow plug
5. put in ATF until fluid starts to drip out of the overflow plug
6. start vehicle, shift through all gears and back to "P" again ("D" will cover 1-8 just fine), holding in each gear for at least 2 full seconds
7. put in ATF until fluid starts to drip out of the overflow plug (yes, while the car is running)
8. allow transmission to come up to operating temperature (about 35 degrees C -- if you don't have a scan tool that can tell you ATF temp, presume 15 minutes to get to temp)
9. put in ATF until fluid starts to drip out of the overflow plug (yes, while the car is running)
10. do the shifter dance of step 6 again
11. put in ATF until fluid starts to drip out of the overflow plug (yes, while the car is running)
12. new-O-ring-seal and replace the drain plug
13. turn off car, new-O-ring-seal and replace the fill plug

Basically all of the fancy here is because of 3 things:

(1) the torque converter is not going to gravity-drain out. Apparently on any automatic transmission -- not just this one -- that's a how-it-works thing, its just how it is. That's why you won't be able to empty the transmission.

(2) to get new fluid into the torque converter, you have to do all the shifter-dance thing.

(3) ATF seriously expands and contracts with temperature. So to get fluid levels right you have to start *dead cold* and you have to work your way up to operating temp, and fluid has get everywhere it is supposed to get during that while-working-up process. Do NOT play fast and loose with this, you can mess up your transmission if you pull a "how much could it possibly matter" and getting out of that scenario means $$$$ rather than just $.

Hope this helps.

 

Does your wife know you're using her measuring cup?

 

I do wonder how much of the complication can be avoided by accounting for certain variables.

For example, why couldn't you just let the car and new trans fluid sit next to each other in the garage for a day or two (to equalize the temperature), jack the car up, drain however much fluid you can get out of it into a clear jug, mark the final drain amount on the outside of the jug, clean the jug out, refill the jug to your level marking with new fluid, then pour that into the trans. Finish up, drive the car for a couple hundred miles, then do it again. In theory, assuming you are using the correct spec fluid, you're eliminating the temperature and imprecise measurement variables that could lead to an inaccurate fluid reading for drain/refill. This would make the process an awful lot simpler than it is even now.

Someone tell me I'm stupid and why this won't work, because otherwise this is what I'm doing. I found a good deal on some Idemitsu TLS-LV recently and plan on doing this job in the near future.

 

The overflow drain plug means that when you pour in too much, it drains itself until you are at the right level. Very simple. The complicated part is to get the temp correctly as it expands with temp but that isnt too difficult.

I have an E320 mercedes with a dipstick and you have to get it to an exact temperature and reading and it can take me and a partner 20 minutes to reach a correct level. I prefer the overflow drain plug.

Good luck,
Peter

 

Forgive me if I'm wrong here, but if I'm understanding this right, this Febi fluid is for the older AW-1 JWS3309 spec. I had this in my older Saabs.

The Mini's with the 8 speed are supposed to use the newer spec ATF-0WS JWS3324 I do believe, like what was in my SPA Volvo.

I'm not sure using AW-1 spec fluid would really be an issue, but something to note.

 

Emailed Febi Corporate as I noticed that what they had cross ref. in their system and that noted. I know that's an older oil of the JWS3324 version. Most places use one or the other as they are very similar in traits. We have the Aisin 0WS here: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-aisin-pa...rt/atf0ws~asc/ which is also an option.

 

That's exactly my question as well.
Since we put back the same quantity of whatever we are taking out, then why should we worry if the total oil quantity will not be where she must be?

 

Got an update.

"According to our Product Manager we (after consultation with our supplier) have been crossing BMW ATF6 to febi 29934 for years, even though the viscosity is higher than it should be for ATF6. The frictional and lubrication characteristics of 29934 are consistent with ATF6, as are wear prevention, anti-foaming, and thermal stability properties." Down the road they will introduce a newer fluid, "lower viscosity is for better fuel efficiency". They said its just an updated fluid on the newer versions.

 

Interesting. You know, I kept squinting at that Febi bottle and for some reason I kept veering over to the AISIN product, first winding up with the one adhering to JWS3309 because Confusing Confusing Confusing, and finally ending up at the AISIN ATF-0WS.

Nice to get the confirm that I had chased down what was apparently the "most" on-spec on my own, at least in re ATF6 proper.

 

Yes, I am glad we are direct with most suppliers and they give us information due to our/my personal relationships with the companies. This is what sets us apart from the rest.

 

Realizing I never said what I was using. If anyone is looking at this in the future, I recommend Idemitsu TLS-LV for the JWS3324 ATF-0WS spec. It's what a lot of the Asian manufacturers use in their cars with Aisin transmissions, and then rebrand in their own bottles. It's a quality synthetic with a great additive package.