F55/F56 F56 Cooper S Upper engine mount replacement?
#177
#178
See my reply to @boki . I didn't tear my new one open but if it's not filled with fluid it's filled with air (pretty sure it's not filled with air). It's definitely the same kind of chamber-something as in the original, with the same kind of rubber making the same kind of seal. No change in toughness/texture/flexibility/etc., and it is *very* flexible to the touch.
#179
#182
This photo is of the one on the RH (vehicle's POV) headlamp, if you are standing in front of the car. The element in view is the one at the upper right (from your POV) of the headlamp assembly.
There is a good amount of discussion about how difficult it can be to unscrew the originals without destroying them. When I did this work (and BTW I did replace these 3 "elements" and their screws) I was clear why pretty much immediately -- not only are the screws going into square nuts that sit loosely inside the element housing, the screws are coated with red Loctite.
Hope this helps!
#184
That would appear to be the intent. And to lock each headlight visually centered within its hood opening too, of course.
My recollection is that getting the headlights centered is not difficult, but not exactly intuitive either. If the alignment elements just sort of naturally sit nicely where they are supposed to -- you'll kind of know it it by feel and confirm by (slowly) bringing the lid down to do visual check -- then you just tighten them up evenly and you can even walk away thinking the paint marks were not needed. All cool. But if there is any doubt whatsoever, the only way to resolve at least some of that doubt is by marking the original positions.
My recollection is that getting the headlights centered is not difficult, but not exactly intuitive either. If the alignment elements just sort of naturally sit nicely where they are supposed to -- you'll kind of know it it by feel and confirm by (slowly) bringing the lid down to do visual check -- then you just tighten them up evenly and you can even walk away thinking the paint marks were not needed. All cool. But if there is any doubt whatsoever, the only way to resolve at least some of that doubt is by marking the original positions.
#185
That would appear to be the intent. And to lock each headlight visually centered within its hood opening too, of course.
My recollection is that getting the headlights centered is not difficult, but not exactly intuitive either. If the alignment elements just sort of naturally sit nicely where they are supposed to -- you'll kind of know it it by feel and confirm by (slowly) bringing the lid down to do visual check -- then you just tighten them up evenly and you can even walk away thinking the paint marks were not needed. All cool. But if there is any doubt whatsoever, the only way to resolve at least some of that doubt is by marking the original positions.
My recollection is that getting the headlights centered is not difficult, but not exactly intuitive either. If the alignment elements just sort of naturally sit nicely where they are supposed to -- you'll kind of know it it by feel and confirm by (slowly) bringing the lid down to do visual check -- then you just tighten them up evenly and you can even walk away thinking the paint marks were not needed. All cool. But if there is any doubt whatsoever, the only way to resolve at least some of that doubt is by marking the original positions.
How do you mark the adjusters' screw distance? Especially if you replace with new??
#186
Intuitively, this leaves one wondering “well
how do you adjust the headlamps otherwise — like front to rear vs left-right along the slide paths of the alignment elements? I don’t know the BMW-intended method to do so offhand, but it isn’t by changes to the screw distance. If you don’t tighten those screws down completely, no exception, the headlamp will bounce around with every single jostle to the car — obviously not the idea and leading to not-good stuff.
Or at least that’s what I observed with my F56S. Pretty sure you’ll observe the same with yours.
#188
On my F56 all the screws were tightened down completely before I did disassembly of any kind, FWIW.
#191
#192
#193
That is what they are adjusting using the tool in blue.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ght/1VnXs7s0w9
It adjusts as you tighten while aligning flush to hood
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ght/1VnXs7s0w9
It adjusts as you tighten while aligning flush to hood
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cjv2 (06-27-2023)
#194
Hey @AutoCoarsen how are your experiments holding up over there? Would love to hear an update as your work was pretty extensive
#195
Hey @AutoCoarsen how are your experiments holding up over there? Would love to hear an update as your work was pretty extensive
I haven’t inspected it closely in a while, but I have no complaints. No vibrations.
I have to swap front control arms soon (ball joint going out). I’ll try to look closer then.
this was before I installed it.
One year of heavy use.
Last edited by AutoCoarsen; 07-28-2023 at 01:13 PM.
#196
My '21 S has 19k miles on it, I took it to the dealer yesterday for some other things and they found the mount was leaking. Luckily it was replaced under warranty but wow this is crazy to hear how common these fail! At less than 20k I guess I should buy in bulk and learn how to replace these on my own for the future. Dang.
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cjv2 (08-26-2023)
#197
#198
Being a dumb American I’m not sure if that’s March or November. If November, it was built on my bday.
#200
Update on my mount testing. I’m currently running a new Transmission mount, filled with 3M Windo-Weld (55a-60a durometer) and a new engine also mount filled with 3M Windo-Weld, plus a custom CNC aluminum bumper/spacer to replace the original rubber bumper in the engine mount.
The vibration is a bit too much for me (especially pulling away from a stop in 1st or 2nd gear w/manual transmission).
This setup did solve a major complaint about my 17’ Clubman S ALL4 though. On certain freeway expansion joints I drive over routinely the car always had a weird floppy / cowl shake / reverberation that’s drove me nuts for years. I even went aftermarket springs/dampers (Bilstein B8) thinking it would solve it. It never did. Nor did adding the 2020 Clubman JCW underbody or strut tower braces 😬😬
So apparently the floppy, reverberation feeling was the engine/trans bouncing around. Agh! Anyway, that’s totally gone now. Cars feels better over bumps than it ever has.
Next attempt will be to remove the factory bumper in an engine mount and fill the entire thing with softer 30a durometer 2-part urethane. Hoping the softer urethane will decrease vibration, but keep the engine/trans from bouncing around. Gonna leave the filled trans mount for now.
Here’s a new trans mount filled with 3M Windo-Weld. Doesn’t feel too horrible stiff by hand. You can still move/flex the inner portion by hand.
But was my engine/trans flop just due to the trans mount - I’m not sure… The original wasn’t really in bad shape. It’s a very basic rubber mount with no tears. I bought the car when it was 3 years old with 30,000 miles and it “engine-flopped” even then. 🤷🏼♂️
Not a great photo of my current engine mount.
The vibration is a bit too much for me (especially pulling away from a stop in 1st or 2nd gear w/manual transmission).
This setup did solve a major complaint about my 17’ Clubman S ALL4 though. On certain freeway expansion joints I drive over routinely the car always had a weird floppy / cowl shake / reverberation that’s drove me nuts for years. I even went aftermarket springs/dampers (Bilstein B8) thinking it would solve it. It never did. Nor did adding the 2020 Clubman JCW underbody or strut tower braces 😬😬
So apparently the floppy, reverberation feeling was the engine/trans bouncing around. Agh! Anyway, that’s totally gone now. Cars feels better over bumps than it ever has.
Next attempt will be to remove the factory bumper in an engine mount and fill the entire thing with softer 30a durometer 2-part urethane. Hoping the softer urethane will decrease vibration, but keep the engine/trans from bouncing around. Gonna leave the filled trans mount for now.
Here’s a new trans mount filled with 3M Windo-Weld. Doesn’t feel too horrible stiff by hand. You can still move/flex the inner portion by hand.
But was my engine/trans flop just due to the trans mount - I’m not sure… The original wasn’t really in bad shape. It’s a very basic rubber mount with no tears. I bought the car when it was 3 years old with 30,000 miles and it “engine-flopped” even then. 🤷🏼♂️
Not a great photo of my current engine mount.
Do you have any experience of getting the transmission mount out? Bought the PowerFlex insert for the gearbox mount aswell as it was only 20 EUR but unsure how to approach it and if wanna do the hassle.