F55/F56 Wheel Brands
#2
Edit:
"Every NM Engineering part is designed and engineered in California with manufacturing done between, California, Germany, UK and Japan."
So, at least not made in China 😉
Last edited by DAVIDLEERAD; 02-05-2016 at 12:07 PM.
#3
Both those brands manufacture wheels in China. Many wheels are made in China. Where would you prefer your wheels to be made?
Read up on TireRack, they disclose where all their wheels are made, not that it matters. The casting or forging tech is much more important, as is the wheels JWL and VIA certification.
Read up on TireRack, they disclose where all their wheels are made, not that it matters. The casting or forging tech is much more important, as is the wheels JWL and VIA certification.
#4
#5
#6
You pay a big price for quality or low price it seems. I saw a wheel on tire rack I was interested in. Nice looking and inexpensive. Guy gave a review saying hed already bent a couple and had to replace em.
So you can pay 450-500 for a set and you run the risk of inferior manufacturing and having to replace them or spend 1200 dollars for a set and not worry....................................?
So you can pay 450-500 for a set and you run the risk of inferior manufacturing and having to replace them or spend 1200 dollars for a set and not worry....................................?
#7
You pay a big price for quality or low price it seems. I saw a wheel on tire rack I was interested in. Nice looking and inexpensive. Guy gave a review saying hed already bent a couple and had to replace em.
So you can pay 450-500 for a set and you run the risk of inferior manufacturing and having to replace them or spend 1200 dollars for a set and not worry....................................?
So you can pay 450-500 for a set and you run the risk of inferior manufacturing and having to replace them or spend 1200 dollars for a set and not worry....................................?
And protect your investment, or baby the bad stuff....either way it's 4 x 4
Trending Topics
#8
I've run really really low quality wheels and never bent them. I've also bent expensive wheels without really trying.
Notice I didn't mention anything about what tire, driving condition, or how big the pothole? What's important here is context. Some idiot making comments about how he's "already bent a few" means he's probably rally crossing through a parking lot full of concrete curbs and blaming the wheel. Of course he left that part out so he could feel justified in blaming something besides himself. Again, the lack of context discounts the "review".
If you want guaranteed quality, then buy new OEM wheels that have been fully vetted by the OEM's rigorous durability testing. After that, with aftermarket, other than a JWL/VIA cert, you're on your own. Being a good structural engineer will help you determine which wheels have fundamentally weak hoops, spokes, and hub interfaces. You're not going to get an FEA out of the manufacturer or the vendor, it's not realistic.
There's also no such thing as "not worrying" about the wheels, because they're always in danger when you drive. Potholes you didn't avoid, curbs you hit, pallets that got blown off some truck and landed in front of you on the Interstate, that time you decided it was a great idea to go RallyCrossing in an abandoned concrete plant.
Saying something asinine like "this brand" = good quality isn't good advice, because as you've hopefully seen, almost every brand makes good and bad wheels. Want to hedge your bets? Buy wheels that other forum members have already had good success with.
Notice I didn't mention anything about what tire, driving condition, or how big the pothole? What's important here is context. Some idiot making comments about how he's "already bent a few" means he's probably rally crossing through a parking lot full of concrete curbs and blaming the wheel. Of course he left that part out so he could feel justified in blaming something besides himself. Again, the lack of context discounts the "review".
If you want guaranteed quality, then buy new OEM wheels that have been fully vetted by the OEM's rigorous durability testing. After that, with aftermarket, other than a JWL/VIA cert, you're on your own. Being a good structural engineer will help you determine which wheels have fundamentally weak hoops, spokes, and hub interfaces. You're not going to get an FEA out of the manufacturer or the vendor, it's not realistic.
There's also no such thing as "not worrying" about the wheels, because they're always in danger when you drive. Potholes you didn't avoid, curbs you hit, pallets that got blown off some truck and landed in front of you on the Interstate, that time you decided it was a great idea to go RallyCrossing in an abandoned concrete plant.
Saying something asinine like "this brand" = good quality isn't good advice, because as you've hopefully seen, almost every brand makes good and bad wheels. Want to hedge your bets? Buy wheels that other forum members have already had good success with.
#9
i've run really really low quality wheels and never bent them. I've also bent expensive wheels without really trying.
Notice i didn't mention anything about what tire, driving condition, or how big the pothole? What's important here is context. Some idiot making comments about how he's "already bent a few" means he's probably rally crossing through a parking lot full of concrete curbs and blaming the wheel. Of course he left that part out so he could feel justified in blaming something besides himself. Again, the lack of context discounts the "review".
If you want guaranteed quality, then buy new oem wheels that have been fully vetted by the oem's rigorous durability testing. After that, with aftermarket, other than a jwl/via cert, you're on your own. Being a good structural engineer will help you determine which wheels have fundamentally weak hoops, spokes, and hub interfaces. You're not going to get an fea out of the manufacturer or the vendor, it's not realistic.
There's also no such thing as "not worrying" about the wheels, because they're always in danger when you drive. Potholes you didn't avoid, curbs you hit, pallets that got blown off some truck and landed in front of you on the interstate, that time you decided it was a great idea to go rallycrossing in an abandoned concrete plant.
Saying something asinine like "this brand" = good quality isn't good advice, because as you've hopefully seen, almost every brand makes good and bad wheels. Want to hedge your bets? Buy wheels that other forum members have already had good success with.
Notice i didn't mention anything about what tire, driving condition, or how big the pothole? What's important here is context. Some idiot making comments about how he's "already bent a few" means he's probably rally crossing through a parking lot full of concrete curbs and blaming the wheel. Of course he left that part out so he could feel justified in blaming something besides himself. Again, the lack of context discounts the "review".
If you want guaranteed quality, then buy new oem wheels that have been fully vetted by the oem's rigorous durability testing. After that, with aftermarket, other than a jwl/via cert, you're on your own. Being a good structural engineer will help you determine which wheels have fundamentally weak hoops, spokes, and hub interfaces. You're not going to get an fea out of the manufacturer or the vendor, it's not realistic.
There's also no such thing as "not worrying" about the wheels, because they're always in danger when you drive. Potholes you didn't avoid, curbs you hit, pallets that got blown off some truck and landed in front of you on the interstate, that time you decided it was a great idea to go rallycrossing in an abandoned concrete plant.
Saying something asinine like "this brand" = good quality isn't good advice, because as you've hopefully seen, almost every brand makes good and bad wheels. Want to hedge your bets? Buy wheels that other forum members have already had good success with.
#10
OE wheels, regardless of who/where they're made, tend to be on the stronger side since they need to account for use by 'normal' people doing whoknowswhat. Though this apparently has changed a bit recently, Honda had really rigorous wheel strength standards. That said, I bent a VW OE Ronal wheel I have on my F55, and over the years every wheel I've bent or cracked has been German-made BBSs, though only because almost everything I've had are theirs.
If all you're trying to do is avoid Chinese wheels, there are plenty of US, Japan, and even Russian-made ones out there.
If all you're trying to do is avoid Chinese wheels, there are plenty of US, Japan, and even Russian-made ones out there.
#11
I've run really really low quality wheels and never bent them. I've also bent expensive wheels without really trying.
Notice I didn't mention anything about what tire, driving condition, or how big the pothole? What's important here is context. Some idiot making comments about how he's "already bent a few" means he's probably rally crossing through a parking lot full of concrete curbs and blaming the wheel. Of course he left that part out so he could feel justified in blaming something besides himself. Again, the lack of context discounts the "review".
If you want guaranteed quality, then buy new OEM wheels that have been fully vetted by the OEM's rigorous durability testing. After that, with aftermarket, other than a JWL/VIA cert, you're on your own. Being a good structural engineer will help you determine which wheels have fundamentally weak hoops, spokes, and hub interfaces. You're not going to get an FEA out of the manufacturer or the vendor, it's not realistic.
There's also no such thing as "not worrying" about the wheels, because they're always in danger when you drive. Potholes you didn't avoid, curbs you hit, pallets that got blown off some truck and landed in front of you on the Interstate, that time you decided it was a great idea to go RallyCrossing in an abandoned concrete plant.
Saying something asinine like "this brand" = good quality isn't good advice, because as you've hopefully seen, almost every brand makes good and bad wheels. Want to hedge your bets? Buy wheels that other forum members have already had good success with.
Notice I didn't mention anything about what tire, driving condition, or how big the pothole? What's important here is context. Some idiot making comments about how he's "already bent a few" means he's probably rally crossing through a parking lot full of concrete curbs and blaming the wheel. Of course he left that part out so he could feel justified in blaming something besides himself. Again, the lack of context discounts the "review".
If you want guaranteed quality, then buy new OEM wheels that have been fully vetted by the OEM's rigorous durability testing. After that, with aftermarket, other than a JWL/VIA cert, you're on your own. Being a good structural engineer will help you determine which wheels have fundamentally weak hoops, spokes, and hub interfaces. You're not going to get an FEA out of the manufacturer or the vendor, it's not realistic.
There's also no such thing as "not worrying" about the wheels, because they're always in danger when you drive. Potholes you didn't avoid, curbs you hit, pallets that got blown off some truck and landed in front of you on the Interstate, that time you decided it was a great idea to go RallyCrossing in an abandoned concrete plant.
Saying something asinine like "this brand" = good quality isn't good advice, because as you've hopefully seen, almost every brand makes good and bad wheels. Want to hedge your bets? Buy wheels that other forum members have already had good success with.
#12
#13
Good Luck!
John
#14
#15
I can vouch for them. Volks are usually insanely lightweight. Very pleased with the quality of mine. And they balanced really well with minimal added weight.
#16
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Quijote
MINIs & Minis for Sale
6
05-31-2016 04:42 AM
R56YouSankMyBattleship
R56 :: Hatch Talk (2007+)
8
02-09-2016 02:57 PM