F55/F56 :: Hatch Talk (2014+) MINI Cooper and Cooper S (F55/F56) hatchback discussions.

F55/F56 Stalling When Starting Cold

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Old 02-08-2016, 02:49 PM
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Stalling When Starting Cold

Lately my 2014 MCS A/T with 25,000 miles started to act up when trying to start the engine in the mornning in my garage to go to work. My garage ambient air temp has been about 50-60 F (in SoCal) so it's not terribly cold at all.
As awalys engine cranks and starts fine, but then immediately it starts to stumbe a bit while gear shifter is still in Park position - unstable idling, surging between 400-800 rpm. If I just shift into Reverse to back out of my garage, then engine would just die/stall if I don't give any throttle. Before this symptom, I didn't have to give any throttle at all because as soon as I'm out of my garage, my driveway is a decline to the street. After the stalling, I restart the engine and it doesn't happen again till next morning.
I found a way to avoid the stalling (not acceptable though). After the engine starts the first time, DO NOT shift into gear right away (Reverse in my case). Stay in Park and rev the engine to 2-3000 rpm for several seconds and wait until the idle rpm become stable and nice. Then shift into the Reverse. This is just exactly what I used to do on my 1973 Datsun pickup truck!

Has anyone experienced this stalling issue when starting cold engine?
 
  #2  
Old 02-08-2016, 05:29 PM
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I'm experiencing the same thing. 2014 MC with manual transmission. I'm in Colorado and the car is parked outside. The problem occurs at 30 degrees F or below. I have to let the car warm up for a few minutes until the engine is running smooth. Often the car will still stall.

I've just accepted it as part of a MINI.
 
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Old 02-08-2016, 08:54 PM
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How many miles on your MCS now?
When did you first notice this stalling?

Mine started doing this about last December.
 
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Old 02-09-2016, 07:30 AM
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  #5  
Old 02-09-2016, 09:53 AM
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never mind
 
  #6  
Old 02-09-2016, 02:33 PM
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When my F56 was new (7/2014), it had similar problems. Took it in to the dealer after I put 1000 miles on the car (problem never disappeared). They applied an updated software and it cured the problem permanently (currently at 27000 miles). Mine was one of the first cars that they had applied the fix to and they requested that I leave the car overnight so it could be tested while stone cold. If you are the original owner and you have had the car in for a service at the dealership they would have/should have noted that the upgrade had not been done. Sounds like your car is still under warranty and the fix should be no expense to you. Make an appointment and request a loaner. At 25000 you are due for a service anyway.
 
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