Ordering some new viper style stripes for when my car hopefully arrives at the dealership next week. My MA says that the flat black stripes are awful to keep clean and is pushing me to do a satin style. Also thinks I should do them on top of the clear bra rather than underneath.

Any thoughts on if he's correct about the flat black, and if it should be under or over the clearbra?

Thank you as always!

 

If you're going for a matte/satin finish, I would think putting the clear bra over the vinyl would distort the finish and make the stripes look glossy.

 

I have matte black and they are not hard to keep clean in the least bit. As far as the clear bra.....put it on first.

 

Angry - First off why go with a Bra. Get the whole hood done. I was quoted under $500 for Xpel. If you went this way then get it done after as it will change the color.
Any vinyl does not last that long 2 -5 years. Matte will not last as long as gloss - it is more porous to be matte. I doubt there is a true matte anyway - they all have a slight glass. I think 3M have the least glossy matte - I have both Avery and the 3M on my car.
You have to be careful not to put wax on the matte as it will mark it and also not rub it too hard as it will create a glossy spot.

 

Good points. I'll likely get the whole hood done, but to get that plus front end and mirror protection it's looking like close to 1000.00. I laughed at them when they quoted me 420 for the stripes. Man the mark up...

 

It is interesting how much they charge. I've done some wrapping.
The hood is tough. Had to be perfect. A trained circus monkey could wrap the mirrors and the front bumper to do properly would have to be taken of the car.

 

I just had my F56S doen this past week with 3M film. I went with the half hood, full bumper, headlights, and mirrors. I have gloos black stripes from the factory so all went on over them. The job is fantastic. They did not have to remove any parts of the car. If you know just where to look you can find the material line, but you really have to look hard to see it. The whole deal ran right at $1K for labor and film kit. I have a 400' gravel drive and travel a bunch of country roads in less than good condition. My 08 Yaris had all sorts of stone chips on it when we parted company and I'm not looking to repeat that with the Mini!

 

When you say "If you went this way then get it done after as it will change the color." Are you saying get the Xpel done after the matte stripes or the matte stripes after the Xpel?

Either way, my matte stripes are already on so do I have no choice but to Xpel over them?
Also, what's the best way to care for them?

Thanks for the help.

 

Vinyl is cheap compared to clear bra. Always put the stripes on top. As for matte vinyl, it holds up well. I've installed stripes for more than 10 years

 

If you clear bra over your matte stripes they will become glossy.

 

Ask yourself this, what does spell cost? Then ask, what do stripes cost? Put the cheaper of the two on top. If you have to take stripes off, then do it. Don't cheap out on having the spelling done right and under stripes

 

I do racing stripes for $100 including the vinyl. Come to Winston-Salem if you want a good deal

 

Is there any issue with the stripes being applied at the factory vs. removed, clear bra'd, and applied again?

 

None

 

Stripes usually are not applied at the factory but at the port of entry

 

Just be aware....Once that clear bra is on, you can never wax the paint again. Any dull spots or imperfections will be there. ALso, there is NO,.......ZERO,........ UV paint protection frm the sun as you are unable to apply a wax coat directly to the paint. I had the clear bra applied and took it off after three months. It may be initially optically clear, but will yellow overtime. It'smuch easier to keep acoat of wax on your baby and also the piece of mind the paint is protected. Also, your car will look the same all the way around. You just need to think about this and not get caught up in the hype...............................

 

I question that, as my JCW was on a fast-track delivery by my dealer when it arrived at the port. The driving lights installation was not allowed at the port due to the "rush" delivery, so the car arrived at the dealer without the driving lights and the JCW bonnet stripes were on the bonnet together with all the white protective covering. My dealer installed the driving lights. I believe the bonnet stripes came from the factory, or my dealer would have mentioned why there was a delay at the port (and there wasn't).

If only the optional accessory stripes (not standard bonnet stripes) are applied at the port, that would make perfect sense though.

 

You can keep a nice layer of wax on your vinyl to help maintain it. It's what I do for the vinyl on my car. Something like this here will work. I also put a good coat of hand wax over my car about every 6 months (including the vinyl).

 

Thanks for the info. Considering D.D.'s post, is there an issue with waxing over the clear bra like he says? I live in the high desert with over 300 days of sunshine a year at high elevation plus the desert means loads of rocks/dust everywhere I go. So obviously I'm concerned about the boatload of rock chips that will inevitably happen yet I also need UV protection. Rock chips + Black paint = No bueno.

 

I worked at a detail shop as one of my first jobs as a kid. Learned a lot. From the years of having cars with and without clear bras in Colorado (we have 320+ days of sun at high altitude), here's my input. A car with, you can remove and reclear bra it if it begins to yellow/get dirty. Personally, I've never had paint under the clear bra be effected from not being able to apply wax to it. It also protects against about said rock chips in which you're mostly concerned about. You can apply that spray on wax with protection to the bra as well. Current vehicle without a clear bra, lots of rock chips. I just resprayed and current just got a huge chip, which is super irritating. The vehicle is 12 years old and see's a lot of track time so it wasn't worth putting a clear bra on it at this time. If this wasn't the case, I would put a clear bra on. Just my personal opinion.

 

Thanks for the info Pelican. I think I'll clear bra because the chips are my biggest concern and I'll figure out the rest.

 

Not exactly true.

First good clear will not yellow for 10+ years and they have warranties against this.

Once you clear bra you can treat it just like paint. Polish it, wax it to get the protection needed.

Wax, Cquartz, etc WILL never protect your paint against small pebbles and rock chips.

Clear is not hype if you drive your car, that's why just about EVERY car over $120k the owners protect it. It does save the paint.

Having said that you should always have a professional detailer install it so they can perfectly correct your paint prior to the clear install.

 

Thanks goin2drt!

 

If cost is a concern it's said that most of the chips happen to the bonnet below the top of the headlights, so some only Clear Bra it up to that point. I know that's where I got dings on my 2007 Mini. Also, I had "factory" black strikes on my top, red stripes on the hood/boot. After I took ownership (the car was unsold at the dealership for 7-8 months when I bought it) the black stripes faded horribly. I had the dealer remove them. The red ones are still OK. Go figure.