Not just our cars, most new cars in order to meet crash standards as well as an efficient assembly process are not really easy to disassemble, especially something like the engine/transaxle assembly. Most stuff now days is built around a sub-assembly, built from the inside out so to speak. I'm also not completely convinced the original engine removal posting is a complete truth, but it would be a PITA.

 

I learned today, that the on board computer has a feature you can activate and it will tell you if your oil is full or low and how low. You have to do the manually, just like using a dip stick, but you don't get your hands dirty.

 

On board computer told me I had a tire pressure problem this PM. B/u camera not working with the tire warning hogging the screen. Rushed to a gas station and all was normal, so I reset the system.

 

The TPMS will do that sometimes, if one tire is one pound off from the others. Kind of a pain. Happens to me when there is a drastic change in the weather, like hot to cold.

 

Happens on the MB Sprinter.
Learn to re-set TPMS

 

keeping an eye on this thread

 

I thought I'd put a post here as it is applicable to screw ups at the factory. Somehow my US spec F56S got through the final quality check at the factory with non-operating LED fog lights. From what I have gathered to this point, this was caused by them using a Euro-spec light switch in my car (see Mystery Switch thread).

The dealer has had my car since 6/7 and they're telling me they may have the replacement part by 6/13. Still don't know when I get my car back or what it might entail to replace the part! Now it would seem to me that Mini had two opportunities to catch this: factory & dealer check before delivering the car. I don't like this as if one can't tell that a light is either on or off - what else may be lurking?

 

I'm interested in any emerging issues with the B38 (3 cylinder turbo) motor in the base Cooper. I'm halfway inclined to start a new thread with just that focus, as the F56 includes both the 2.0 litre naturally aspirated B48 (Cooper S) and the B38 (Justa).

We'll see what turns up here in the months to come.

Cheers,

Charlie

 

Hmm... are you sure on that? I don't think the S engine is Natural Aspirated either, it also has the same turbo as the Justa. Really the only difference between the justa engine and S is the cylinder number... its a new modular engine design, each cylinder adds 500cc, so the Justa has a 1.5L 3 and the S has a 2.0L 4. Both turbos.

 

Nope I guess I'm wrong - thanks for the correction. That makes much more sense. Just goes to show I have not done my homework on the "S", which is quite true.

Cheers,

Charlie

 

Just to atone for my ignorance - here's the best snippet I can find on the topic - from the MotoringFile:

"The Engines The B37/B38 are built on a modular platform that increases .5L for every cylinder. That means that these engines essentially 1/2 or 2/3 of the revered 3.0L BMW inline six. Crucially, both engines are now turbocharged. What that has done is re-align the models, with the Cooper joining the Cooper S in forced induction. In our minds, this makes the Cooper much more performance-oriented than before, but lets look at the numbers.
Horsepower:
- Cooper: 134 bhp (up from 121)
- Cooper S: 189 bhp (up from 184)
Torque:
- Cooper: 162 lb-ft (up from 114; a 30% increase)
- Cooper S: 207 lb-ft (up from 191)
Score one for MotoringFile as these were the numbers we first reported last spring. So nothing surprising here in the power department. What is rather impressive is the torque figure for the Cooper. At 162 lb-ft, the F56 Cooper will make the same torque output as the venerated R53. Look for 0-60 times to decrease significantly since torque is now so high and available at only 1,250 rpm.
MINI fans might be disappointed by the small increase for the Cooper S. We assume two things. First, efficiency will be up since this is a relatively unstressed 2.0L turbo four cylinder. Second, this engine has some serious headroom. When I mentioned this to MINI executives and mentioned the letters “J-C-W”, there were a lot of smiles in the room."


Kind regards,


Charlie

 

Update on the bending of my exterior side plastic: pins under the car were installed incorrectly and caused the damage. Requires a part not available in the US right now, so it'll be a couple weeks to be fixed.

 

So it will be covered under warranty?

 

The warranty is covering it, as expected. The pins were installed wrong at the factory. They've corrected the pins, but are just waiting to replace the plastic damage. Glad it will be fixed soon!

 

Another post from someone who had the manual shift boot come off while shifting. This time is was Consumer Reports. Guessing it will catch the eyes of Mini coming from them.

http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/n...ving/index.htm

 

The problem is really in the **** because it comes off so easy. I changed the shift **** to a whalen and that is locked on with no chance of coming off. The bottom clip off part is really easy to unsnap once the shift **** is off.

 

So, the Whalen **** wil fit the F56? I was hoping it would.

 

did you have to replace the shift boot for the whalen ****? Does it thread on? Wondering why they don't have a threaded **** on these cars?

 

The F shifts so easily, I can't imagine being so aggressive that the **** is dislocated as a result. It has four wheels , not 18.

 

I have to give props to "motomama" for helping me on this. The boot is not replaced it's only taken off temporarily to facilitate the removal of the OEM ****. You have to be careful because there is a clip that goes on the base where you switch the different driving modes. The Whalen **** has a spring action locking mech. it works great and looks/feels fantastic.

 

Agreed, F56 shifts like butter, I barely have to touch the ****... best feeling stock shifter I've ever shifted

 

Got my sun visor and steering wheel fixed. It's nice that they had ESPN with the World Cup on while I was waiting :D

 

The front tow hook cover went missing shortly after I took delivery. There is evidently some confusion around its replacement. Earlier models had to be sent out for painting, but my S has a standard black bumper area. An incomplete replacement part came in, but it would not mount properly, so I await a new part. I am delighted that this is the level of nit-pick... so far.

 

Get a platypus front plate mount or make your own and stow that tow hook cover in your glovebox

 

I already have a license plate mounted in the center of the front end. As an aside, I find it odd when folks complain about the design of the front end and yet like the look of an off center license plate. Tastes certainly do vary.