F55/F56/F57 Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for F55/F56 MINI Cooper AND Cooper S models.

Hood Stuck Closed (again!!)

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Old Jan 31, 2024 | 07:44 AM
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Hood Stuck Closed (again!!)

Hi everyone.
Got a 2014 F56 MCS.
When pulling on hood release once only the driver side pops up. Pulling it the 2nd time (or any number of times) then does nothing.
I've had my brother press down on both sides while trying to open and nothing.
I've removed wheel well covers on both sides and don't see any access that fit hands to pusk locks open.
I've called many local mechanics and they all said "we dont deal with locked hoods".
Mini estimates like $1000 to open & repair!

How does one get the hood open?? Where do u even need to push with a pry bar etc?
 
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Old Jan 31, 2024 | 09:20 AM
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https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...on-t-open.html

Check the handle itself and its not stripped on the inside kick panel mount first. #7 on that #8 below.

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/51237307640/



https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=41_2287 Diagram, check around number 8 https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/51437298817/





Check the cable in that kick panel. That cable can pop out of number 8

Check those latches:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/51237300570/

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/51237300569/

That cables can pop out of those #4 and #5 https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/51237300571/ and https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...237430846~oem/

If you find any of those popped out thats the fix. You can try to get through in the wheel well to try to get to those cables.


This is for RHD cars LHD Left hand drive is on the driver side for the US.

 
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Last edited by ECSTuning; Jan 31, 2024 at 09:27 AM.
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Old Feb 1, 2024 | 03:49 PM
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Hey, thanks for your reply!
So all the "*****" are still in their holders. lol. I yanked so hard on the handle inside the car that I broke it. I then grabbed the ball at the end of the cable with pliers and yanked. Every time I did that the driver side releases and pops up but the passenger side doesnt budge. Neither side opens completely no matter how many times I yank of the cable. Im thinking that the passenger side is seized and so the driver side (which appears to be working), cant open all the way either.

Anyhow, I removed both of the inner wheel well trims. I then took a flashlight and kept my eyes on the passenger side mechanism while my brother yanked the cable from inside the car. It seems the cable moved the little ball as it should each time he pulled on the cable though perhaps it isnt moving the ball enough due to some cable stretch or slack? I just dont know. Either way, no matter how much my brother yanks and the ball moved, it was NOT enough to release the lock. So, I used a screwdriver to help the little ball pull and yank on whatever it's attached to and then I finally heard a pop! It sounded like the passenger side hood had been released! Except it hadn't :( it was still locked shut when I got up to look at it so I dont know why is made a sound like it popped open.

Is there any way to just push the lock mechanism itself with a screwdriver or pry bar to force it open? How do these lock mechanism operate ie how do you release the lock assuming the cable is dead and doesnt work or do anything?

(I honestly cant believe what a horrid design BMW employs to lock hoods. Searching for days online revealed this is a very common BMW/Mini issue which people even repair with all new parts and it just returns again years later).
 

Last edited by 2014MCS_Miami; Feb 1, 2024 at 03:56 PM.
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Old Feb 2, 2024 | 06:34 AM
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Spring back design on the hood locks linked above. I bet through the grille and a long thin hook or flat head you might be able to pop each lock.


 
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Old Feb 5, 2024 | 10:06 AM
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I tried for HOURS. Where specifically do I need to poke at with the long flat head screw driver? Can you possibly point out with an arrow?
From peeking just under the hood (I can open it about 3/4") with flashlight, I can just about see the top of the silver par of the claw-looking latch. I also tried going in through the wheel well and tried poking EVERYTHING, lol.

Any suggestions truly appreciated. Thanks for your responses thus far!
 
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Old Feb 5, 2024 | 10:37 AM
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You watch that video and reached up and pulled those cables? pull twice.

Red box top

Red box right hand side, through the hood gap/grille area.


Those are the only areas you can get into without having the car on a lift and pulling off the bumper and under covers.


If you get it fixed, grease the locks.
 
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Last edited by ECSTuning; Feb 5, 2024 at 10:51 AM.
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Old Feb 5, 2024 | 11:59 AM
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thank you
 
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Old Feb 5, 2024 | 12:01 PM
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Welcome.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2024 | 09:41 AM
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Did you get it unstuck?
 
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Old Mar 6, 2024 | 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by ECSTuning
Did you get it unstuck?
Yes, after about a month of it sitting there and me messing with it, I realized the issue and it was related to a couple of things. First, there was too much slack in the cables that pull the locks open. They were original (from 2014) and needed to be replaced which honestly wasnt all that hard, even for a newbie like me.
The 2 locking mechanisms themselves were actually just fine.
However, on the passenger side (the side that jammed), the catch bracket (part 51437298817, see image)

had come a bit loose out of its crazy cheap looking little plastic clasp "twist protector" (part 51237300579). That allowed it to turn slightly and then jam inside the locking mechanism.
To open the hood was a nightmare. I needed to remove both wheel arch covers, tear out (and destroy) the rubber headlight gaskets to be able to see behind them and into the locks and then pull back the lock from within the wheelwell while a friend tried to straighten out the catch bracket from through the headlight.and pull on the hood upwards at the same time.
The main culprit was the "twist protection" piece had developed a slight crack in it from the years of being open and shut, I suppose. That allowed the catch bracket to twist a bit and jam the lock. That, combined with the slack in the cable system.
I ordered all new parts and just got done installing everything from new cables, to new Twist Protections, etc. Was pretty straight forward to uninstall and reinstall new parts.

The dealership suggested it might be necessary to cut open my hood and/or grill before I could figure out how to open it myself! Imagine the cost of all that!

Note to others: I recommend if folks feel some slack in their cables when pulling to open the hood AND it's been like 5+ years, maybe just replace the cables for the peace of mind. There's 2 units and they're only like $25 each. Also, whenever opening the hood, be sure to quickly peak at the plastic "Twist Protectors" attached to the hood to see if feeling flimsy and possibly just replace those every so often as well (they're only like $5).
 
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Old Mar 6, 2024 | 01:37 PM
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Thanks,

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...n/51237300579/

Yep thats sets on that hooks, might be a good part to just replace so often when you grease the latch.

Glad you got it fixed!
 
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Old Aug 30, 2024 | 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ECSTuning
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...on-t-open.html

Check the handle itself and its not stripped on the inside kick panel mount first. #7 on that #8 below.

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/51237307640/



https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=41_2287 Diagram, check around number 8 https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/51437298817/





Check the cable in that kick panel. That cable can pop out of number 8

Check those latches:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/51237300570/

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/51237300569/

That cables can pop out of those #4 and #5 https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/51237300571/ and https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...237430846~oem/

If you find any of those popped out thats the fix. You can try to get through in the wheel well to try to get to those cables.


This is for RHD cars LHD Left hand drive is on the driver side for the US.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d4MuSSNcUFg
Unfortunately USA Mini’s don’t have that space to put your hand in… trust me, I just tried it.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2024 | 09:09 AM
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Yep its tight from what i can see
 
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Old Sep 27, 2024 | 03:05 PM
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So, USA mini is too tight to get a hand in to release latch, even if one takes that whole wheel arch cover off?

Also — mine is a 2017 Clubman (F54 I think??) . Is that shaped the same or different? Will these pictures help me to find the exact spot?

Maybe I need to stop trying myself, and should just go back to the shop which just changed the oil. They must’ve had it opened. (I’ve had some of this problem before, and jiggled the hood/bonnet enough to solve it, that time. So I’m not sure if I can blame the mechanics.)

PS Location is now central PA, 2+ hrs to an actual MINI dealer.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2024 | 06:05 AM
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Have the shop try it.

 
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Old Oct 28, 2024 | 10:10 AM
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@2014MCS_Miami I really hope you're still around as I'm in a similar circumstance with my hood latch. I understand the pain you went through as I'm going through it now. I'm hoping the picture I've attached looks familiar to you. In my situation the cable has completely detached from the latch as you can see circled. This is my view from the driver's side wheel well. My hood is completely secured, meaning neither of the two clicks on this side has released. I'm stuck as I don't know which way to push or pull on the latch manually to open it up mimicking two pulls of the cable lever inside the car. Unlike you, I'm assuming my ring is not twisting. If you can help give me some direction as to how you manipulated the latch I will post pictures to help anyone in the future. Thanks!

FYI, I responded to the wrong thread initially, meant to respond here.



Wire end completely disconnected from latch, circled.

 
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Old Oct 28, 2024 | 02:41 PM
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From the wheel well, you can try to use something like very long, thin, needlenose pliers or perhaps a long flathead screwdriver to push the ball back into the socket. You can also unlock both latches directly from the wheelwell by pressing on release latch twice per each side (you should hear a click each time, just like when popping the hood with the handle). Just look at which way the ball at the end of the cable would normal tug to open the hood latch mechanism (you can have somebody pull on the handle from within the car while you're inside the wheel well looking at it). Once you've determined the direction it would pull in, use the long screwdriver (I used a long skinny crowbar type thing) and push on that same lever which the ball would normally pull. A very firm push will pop the hood the first time. DONT do another pop right away. Go "pop" the latch on the other side once too. Once both have been popped once, you can then do a second push of the lever on both sides and it should release.

Mine was especially cumbersome and took days because we didnt realize the part that attaches to the hood had turned slightly. This was because one of the plastic clasps ("twist protector" part # 51237300579) that holds the 2 of them pointing due North towards the front of the car, had cracked. So, I had to both pop the latch mechanism with a screwdriver while ensuring I had pushed the metal piece attached to the hood so it pointed straight ahead, in the correct direction. All the pics above show the parts too, with part numbers.

You likely wont need to locking mechanisms, they're pretty robust. You will likely need to order new cables (there are 2 sets) and run them from the interior handle through to the locking mechanisms. If you try to just reseat the "ball", it'll likely happen again because these cables stretch over the years. Some have trimmed the cables an inch or so and reattached the ball, I just felt better ordering new parts. Its been a while now and I havent had another issue with it since.

youll push once, it'll pop, then you'll push again and it should release.
 

Last edited by 2014MCS_Miami; Oct 28, 2024 at 02:47 PM.
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Old Oct 28, 2024 | 09:13 PM
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Perfect! Thanks for that detailed response! Looks like I just need to try to swing the curved piece with the spring forward so I can see the piece with the socket in it. So frustrated with this I took the day off work tomorrow to work on it. Will let you know if I have success. Really appreciate your response!
 
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Old Oct 29, 2024 | 10:11 AM
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Solved! Thank you to @2014MCS_Miami ! If ever your F56 hood gets stuck, no worries (at least on the driver's side). As the picture above shows, my cable release came completely disconnected. You have to remove the cover inside the wheel well. In total there's around 14 - 8mm screws. You could get away with just undoing the front portion and bending it down, but more room to work if you remove the whole thing As 2014MCS_Miami points out you need to access the part of the latch/lock that has the ball socket. My issue was I couldn't even see it as the curved piece of the latch with the spring was in the way. Simply knowing that was there, thanks 2014MCS_Miami, I just needed to find the perfect tool to pull the socket piece back. Thankfully, I'm not a vegetarian as the perfect tool came in the form of my BBQ meat hook shown below. Literally took me less than a minute to get my hood open!

 
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