I find myself needing an AWD car soon and the clubman has ben on my short list of quite some time. Ultimately i'd love to get into the new JCW but seeing as how I'm speeding up my plans to this season rather than next fall, I don't feel financially ready to go down that route. However, other than financing, I'm open brining a clubman home in just about any other way.
1. I was looking as some lease offers and see that the S All4 is $340 a month with and the JCW is $400 a month with $3000 and 3500 down respectively. Historically speaking is there any wiggle room on these numbers?
2. I'd be down for going CPO or even just PO, with the intent of upgrading to a JCW next fall. What years and options should I look for on an S All4? What should I avoid?
Thanks in advance!
1. I was looking as some lease offers and see that the S All4 is $340 a month with and the JCW is $400 a month with $3000 and 3500 down respectively. Historically speaking is there any wiggle room on these numbers?
2. I'd be down for going CPO or even just PO, with the intent of upgrading to a JCW next fall. What years and options should I look for on an S All4? What should I avoid?
Thanks in advance!
Deals on new MINIs, including Clubman, including JCW, are happening, especially in December.
Assume invoice is about 7% below MSRP. Take MSRP, subtract the $850 destination charge. Take that number and multiply it by 93% (.93), add the destination fee back in, and that gets you close to estimated invoice.
So, if the car's total MSRP is $40,000 minus $850 = $39,150 x .93 = $36,410 + $850 = estimated invoice. Give or take.
I would do some preliminary calculations based on this formula prior to entering into any negotiations with a dealer. Then I'd ask to see actual invoice on any car or custom build I was considering. Invoice minus available incentives would be my opening offer. If you end up a few hundred over invoice and then subtract incentives from there, you're doing well on a new 2020 Clubman, any model. We have seen discounts over $6,000 on left over 2019's.
On a lease, the lease fee, which is currently $925 is not negotiable. This fee can be paid up front or folded into the lease, which costs a little bit more over the life of the lease. Any capital reduction payment added into the cash due is negotiable. So, the Special Offer examples at MINIUSA are useful for calculating money factor and residual percentage, but the cash due to reduce the capitalized cost of the car is negotiable. And lease money factory (interest rate) can be reduced with additional security deposits.
Lots of info in the Art of the Deal sticky thread in the F56 section. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-the-deal.html
Assume invoice is about 7% below MSRP. Take MSRP, subtract the $850 destination charge. Take that number and multiply it by 93% (.93), add the destination fee back in, and that gets you close to estimated invoice.
So, if the car's total MSRP is $40,000 minus $850 = $39,150 x .93 = $36,410 + $850 = estimated invoice. Give or take.
I would do some preliminary calculations based on this formula prior to entering into any negotiations with a dealer. Then I'd ask to see actual invoice on any car or custom build I was considering. Invoice minus available incentives would be my opening offer. If you end up a few hundred over invoice and then subtract incentives from there, you're doing well on a new 2020 Clubman, any model. We have seen discounts over $6,000 on left over 2019's.
On a lease, the lease fee, which is currently $925 is not negotiable. This fee can be paid up front or folded into the lease, which costs a little bit more over the life of the lease. Any capital reduction payment added into the cash due is negotiable. So, the Special Offer examples at MINIUSA are useful for calculating money factor and residual percentage, but the cash due to reduce the capitalized cost of the car is negotiable. And lease money factory (interest rate) can be reduced with additional security deposits.
Lots of info in the Art of the Deal sticky thread in the F56 section. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-the-deal.html
3rd Gear
I live outside of Philly. MINI of the Main Line had $5k off any new 2020 Clubman or Countryman in stock thru November. I couldn’t pass it up. Now it looks like they bumped it up to $5100. I ended up with iconic, otherwise I probably would have gone with Signature plus a few extras. Anyway, I was super happy with the deal. I have not seen that level of discount at any MINI dealer around here. I would think there would have to be some incentives from MINI to support that level of discount.
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Thanks in advance!
You should avoid buying a car with the intent to trade it in next year on another. Sounds like a way to overpay big time.Originally Posted by joeybananaz18
2. I'd be down for going CPO or even just PO, with the intent of upgrading to a JCW next fall. What years and options should I look for on an S All4? What should I avoid?Thanks in advance!
1st Gear
As 2017All4 mentioned already, the sticky thread on art of the deal is a great starting place. But, I want to pick up on one thing in your intial post. Never ever shop for a lease based on monthly payment! And whatever you do, even if that's your personal private sub-conscious approach, never ever tell the dealer your monthly budget!
Given a monthly payment number, any good dealer can finagle the numbers to meet that, all while making a healthy profit behind the scenes - things such as adjusting the residual value (making it more difficult for you to buy the car at lease end) or slapping on a mileage cap (thus increasing the residual value because the car will have less miles at lease end), playing with interest rates ("money factor" in lease terminology), adding on special features (rustproofing, floor mats etc.)
Don't fall into that trap. Just go in with a price you're willing to pay, and get the most car for that price. Then and only then declare your intent to lease the vehicle!
Given a monthly payment number, any good dealer can finagle the numbers to meet that, all while making a healthy profit behind the scenes - things such as adjusting the residual value (making it more difficult for you to buy the car at lease end) or slapping on a mileage cap (thus increasing the residual value because the car will have less miles at lease end), playing with interest rates ("money factor" in lease terminology), adding on special features (rustproofing, floor mats etc.)
Don't fall into that trap. Just go in with a price you're willing to pay, and get the most car for that price. Then and only then declare your intent to lease the vehicle!
Hi guys so a little update since i made this thread. Last weekend i went to a mini dealer near the honda dealer i was getting my wife's crv serviced at. I wondered over and, met a very nice sales person and we started talking. I told her i was open to just about anything but wanted to see what they had in for CPO clubmans. I took a 2017 All4 S in thunder grey over satellite leather out for a spin and was really happy with it. I went home and wanted to show my wife only to find out that it was not certified.
At that same time I saw another dealer in my area post this... https://www.miniofdutchesscounty.com...b025b76592.htm
Took it for a test drive and found a road to really beat me put it through its paces. I really enjoyed it. It's listed at $22.5. I told them id put a deposit down at 21. they came back with 21.6. it would be 23.7 out the door which i'm ok with. CPO warranty is unlimited milage until 9/2021, so another 21 months. The dealer is closed tomorrow but I'm prepared to put down a deposit on it monday morning with intent to complete the purchase next weekend.
Is there anything else I could ask them to do for me? I just don't want to feel as though I left something on the table. Thanks in advance.
Joe
At that same time I saw another dealer in my area post this... https://www.miniofdutchesscounty.com...b025b76592.htm
Took it for a test drive and found a road to really beat me put it through its paces. I really enjoyed it. It's listed at $22.5. I told them id put a deposit down at 21. they came back with 21.6. it would be 23.7 out the door which i'm ok with. CPO warranty is unlimited milage until 9/2021, so another 21 months. The dealer is closed tomorrow but I'm prepared to put down a deposit on it monday morning with intent to complete the purchase next weekend.
Is there anything else I could ask them to do for me? I just don't want to feel as though I left something on the table. Thanks in advance.
Joe
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Is there anything else I could ask them to do for me? I just don't want to feel as though I left something on the table. Thanks in advance.
Joe
Looks like a nice car. Wholesale auction is probably around $18K ~ 19K, so certified for under $22K seems like a solid price point.Originally Posted by joeybananaz18
Is there anything else I could ask them to do for me? I just don't want to feel as though I left something on the table. Thanks in advance.
Joe
CONFIRM that the 10K AND 20K service were done on schedule.
Find out how much brake pad thickness remains.
Ask for some future scheduled services to BE INCLUDED (get a Due Bill so stating).
CONFIRM any and all service campaigns and software updates are completed.
Make sure there are new or near-new tires on all 4 corners.
The dealer has access to service history. You want to see it.
And, finally, if you are financing, ask for the best current MINI national financing offer, unless you can do better on your own.
Best of luck.
Oh, and since the car is certified, you want to see the certification inspection/repair documentation.
Ask to speak with the technician(s) who did the certification and go over their report.
https://www.miniusa.com/content/dam/..._Checklist.pdf
Ask to speak with the technician(s) who did the certification and go over their report.
https://www.miniusa.com/content/dam/..._Checklist.pdf
Thanks so much for all your insight. Im glad the price is where it should be. I'm simply looking to buy it outright, which im even more surprised i was able to get the price down a bit. Because im not financing im excluded from the $500 off incentive on CPOs. emailed my advisor and hopefully will get that information tomorrow. if everything checks out i'll hopefully bring the car home next weekend.
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You might want to check with the Finance people to determine if you can do a small loan to get the $500, and then pay it off in a few months. Ask what is required to qualify for the $500 CPO financing $. How much do you have to borrow and for how long?Originally Posted by joeybananaz18
Thanks so much for all your insight. Im glad the price is where it should be. I'm simply looking to buy it outright, which im even more surprised i was able to get the price down a bit. Because im not financing im excluded from the $500 off incentive on CPOs. emailed my advisor and hopefully will get that information tomorrow. if everything checks out i'll hopefully bring the car home next weekend.
Unless you just don’t want the credit pull or it’s not worth $500 for the extra complexity. Your call, but I’d at least check into the options.




