Greetings,
Hope someone from the been there, done that crowd can help me out.

I'm installing the KPT remote locking auto window/sunroof close module http://outmotoring.com/remote_contro...up_module.html and I'm trying to figure out how to pull the pins out of the ignition harness connector. I need an always on 12v supply to the circuit.

What I'd like to do rather than cutting the heavy guage red and green wires is instead solder onto the crimp inside this connector to ease uninstallation if needed. However, I can't figure out how to pull a pin out of the connector to ease the soldering job. Anyone know how to do this or can recommend a tool for the job? Or should I be tapping a wire somewhere else for the 12v and ignition?

If Ed Jones happens to see this post, can you elaborate how you did your wiring at the ignition harness connector?
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...85&postcount=4

Attached it a photo of the connecter and its location.

Thanks for any help you can offer!

 

There is usually another clip at the pin part of the connector that can be removed to get access to removing the pins. Those look like the square connectors. If so, there is a tab to push in (on the end of the wire) that will release it from the connector. I hope that made any kind of sense.

 

Sort of makes sense. I pulled the connector apart (look at the first photo) where I pulled the back cover away and now the crimped pins are kind of exposed, yet still hard to get to with a soldering iron.

I've been trying to figure out how to pop the on of the crimped pins out of the connector and just can't see what is keeping them inside the connector. It looks like the pins may have a flange that presses them into the connector.

Feel free to reset me to some other wires if you know where I can find them. I'm a bit disappointed in the Bentley wiring diagrams as the ignition switch harness is not covered.

Cheers!

 

I've never gone as far as that to make a connection. I usually just use my wire strippers to break the insulation in one spot, and then break the insulation again about 1/4" away from the first break. This leaves a small 1/4" section of insulation on the wire. You can then grab this small piece and pull it off, exposing just enough wire to make your connection. If for some reason you ever remove the module you can quickly cover this small section with a piece of electrical tape.

Also, keep in mind, that there is most likely other places to get the voltages you need, we just chose the main ignition harness because it was close and quick. If you look around a bit in the car I'm sure you can find an alternative place to tap the 12vdc you need.

 

I did the same - just stripped a bit and soldered it there. There is no advantage to putting it where you would like to.

 

There are extraction tools for those pins. The pins are held in by plastic or metal flanges (depends on the mfr of the connector/pin). You should be able to find an extraction using google. I found several types using "pin female extraction tool". Be careful if you are planning on using a small screwdriver. It is very easy to damage the little flanges and then the pin will not sit right in the connector or will fall out. (speaking from experience )

I've always had good luck with the 3M Run and Tap connectors (http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/e...r/output_html). They should be pretty easy to find. Just be sure that you use the right gauge size. They are super easy to use, and if you want to remove them, they are relatively ease to take out.

Hope that helps.

 

What does this thing actually DO?
I have my car programmed to allow me to put the key in the driver's side lock and hold it to one side and all the windows will shut.
Are they saying I can now do this with just the key fob as I am walking away, instead of standing there waiting for them to close?

 

I've always had good luck with the 3M Run and Tap connectors (http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/utilities_telecom/electrical_contractors/node_GSPV65GVLXbe/root_GST1T4S9TCgv/vroot_GSBCDFDZ1Zge/gvel_RZZJLFZNT6gl/theme_us_electricalcontractors_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html). They should be pretty easy to find. Just be sure that you use the right gauge size. They are super easy to use, and if you want to remove them, they are relatively ease to take out.

Hope that helps.[/quote]

I agree with this although I have found better success with T-taps. Much like the 3m ones mentioned above but they clamp onto the existing wire on their own (no need to try and have the new wire in there as well) and then the new wire has a male spade attached to it and on one end of the t-tap there is actually a female receptical so you just plug in the new wire. If you want to remove the new wiring you just unplug and leave the t-tap in place so as to not remove something that leaves a bare wire exposed.

good luck!

chris

 

Chris,

Those sound really cool. That was my only problem with the run and tap was that if you tapped the wrong wire (or if you wanted to remove the splice), you have to remove the whole thing and wrap the splice in tape. Just disconnecting the spade and leaving the tap in place would be much more desirable. I'm definately going to have to check those out.

Thanks